Saturday, June 27, 2026

Shelf and Shopper | Organic and Regen Friendly Retailers Panel at First Mindset Conference Finds Both Enthusiasm and Sales Growth In Key Demographics

https://organicwineuncorked.substack.com/p/shelf-and-shopper-organic-and-regen

A panel of experts painted a rosy picture of growth in the retail outlook for regeneratively farmed wine.

There isn’t time or space at the moment to talk about all the things that made the Mindset conference’s debut this month so mindblowing but rest assured, future posts will cover that.

For now, I just want to share with you one piece of that three day event (held in Santa Maria) that I think a lot of you will be interested in and that one little piece is the high powered retailer panel.

How are organic and biodynamically grown (and mostly certified?) wines faring when it comes to shelf and shopper? These are the folks who see what’s happening first hand.

IT IS SO MUCH BETTER WITH THE PHOTOS SO GO TO THE VERSION THAT HAS THEM

WINE SALES DOWN, WELLNESS UP

“We know wine sales are down, but we also know wellness is up,” said importer and distributor and panel moderator Martine Reyes MW in his opening remarks.

He continued, “The question on the table has real dollars attached to it, so the ladder we’re climbing is okay.”

“Organic already means better for me. Sustainable means better for me and the planet. Regenerative means something more, not just avoiding harm, but actively restoring, and includes social equity as well.”

“The gap between what regenerative means and what the market rewards is the focus of this session,” he said.

In his own work, he said, communicating regenerative can be challenging as the information gets passed through the retailer or restaurant wine teams.

“I can put regenerative wines in front of a buyer and a story. What I can’t control is if it gets poured, if it’s talked about, or if it’s reordered. Certification or shelf placement doesn’t solve that. It’s important, but it doesn’t solve that.”

“What solves that is if the staff on the floor tells the story (real quick) to the busy consumer who’s in and out trying to go on with their day, and that’s the trade. That’s a training problem, and it’s a problem that belongs to everyone in this room who moves wine.”

All three panelists contributed what they have seen happening in the marketplace with consumers and buying power for regeneratively grown wines.

IT IS SO MUCH BETTER WITH THE PHOTOS SO GO TO THE VERSION THAT HAS THEM

Chiara Shannon (left), Elaine Leibee (right)

SHANNON: WELLNESS AND THE SOMMELIER’S EVOLVING ROLE AS REGEN EDUCATOR (AS NEEDED)

“How much does the average consumer or sommelier understand about regenerative wine right now?” Reyes asked Shannon.

She answered, “Not very much, but I also would say that that isn’t so important.”

“What speaks to me,” she said. “and what captured my interest in wine in the beginning was sense awareness and the adventure that it offers. And then, as my career evolved, and I advanced selling wine, working as a sommelier, getting my own certifications, and also practicing yoga and integrating my wellness practice into my life, I came to see these connections between wine and awareness, and how wine can be a tool for us to expand our awareness.”

“And it can also be a way to integrate our values into how we purchase things,” she continued.

“So I became very interested in the connection between wellness and our values around that–health, mindfulness, wellness, healthy eating, and wine–and so here today I truly believe that these are the values that drive consumer behavior.”

“It is an exciting moment for wine, because we can speak to all of these things, and regenerative agriculture is this a new evolution–the next evolution of that conversation.”

“So sommeliers need to know about soil health and microbiology. How much do they know about that? Is that really important if they’re interested, and if they feel like they can connect with their consumers about that, then that’s great.

But ultimately the story is about relationships and making connections and opportunities.”

Her Philosophy

“Working as a buyer, you meet the customer where they are. If someone comes in and wants to talk about fermentation and you know this clone and that clone and this time in the barrel or whatever, you talk to them about that and you sell that.

Over my career I saw that more and more people, especially younger people were coming in and wanting to talk about biodynamics and natural wine and alternative packaging and lifestyle issues, and so for me, part of meeting the consumer where they are and giving them an experience took me to a place where I was taking my customers to wine country and doing yoga and teaching mindfulness and talking about biodynamic farming and talking about what now is regenerative practices and how wine is a part of that.”

In-depth knowledge is not required she said, but building a relationship and creating trust and bridges is essential. Knowing more about regenerative wine can be an asset, she said.

“How much do sommeliers and buyers know about this stuff? It depends on how much they have researched it and what their interests are. A lot of the times it’s more on a superficial level, but I also think that if they can find ways to connect with their consumers who are interested in these things and interested in values related to health, ecology, wellness, the future of our planet, that’s where the sales takes place, that’s where the magic happens, and that’s where the loyalty is built, and the trust. That’s a long answer, but that’s been my experience.”

IT IS SO MUCH BETTER WITH THE PHOTOS SO GO TO THE VERSION THAT HAS THEM

HOWARD: REGENERATIVE ORGANIC MARKET DATA SHOWS ROC DRAMATICALLY OUTPERFORMING OTHER CERTIFICATIONS IN FOOD

Prefacing her data presentation, Howard noted that the data she was presenting comes from food sales, not wine, so it should be considered with that lens.

Her slide on data from Spins showed regenerative organic outperforming other leading certifications with a 22% year over year growth in multi-outlet channels (MULO), outperforming the older labeling of organic which showed 6% growth.

Since consumers often do not know that organic is non GMO, there was even another label that said “Non GMO and ROC.” That was growing 30%.

Notably, combining certifications combined led to annual growth.

Meanwhile, sustainable was a more complex story and landscape. Certified B was not a big lift for shoppers (down 1%) but grass fed and pasture raised are rising labels.

RISING USE OF COMBO LABELING

Combo labels are growing, she said, giving consumers reassurance in a landscape filled with so many terms.

“If consumers have had some not so strong experiences with organic–they read it somewhere, it didn't turn out what they thought it was, whatever it may be–when they see that that regenerative organic certified paired with say organic or fair trade, they tend to have a higher trust lever, and so just seeing that for them is a trust lever,” she said.

But there’s not enough ROC products on the shelf. 

”We also recognize that regenerative organic certified products aren’t necessarily at a fully accessible place. They’re still very aspirational. You have to go to certain places to find them. There are not huge shelf sets around it, and that’s something that we’re looking at.

How do we make it more attainable, accessible by working with retailers?”

EREWHON’S EXPERIENCE: WINE SALES ARE UP, ESPECIALLY WITH CONSUMERS AGED 21-35

At Southern California’s organic powerhouse Erewhon, with certified organic stores in 11 locations (and on the way to expanding to more), Erewhon wine director Elaine Leibee said the company has its own wine standards.

“When a producer submits their wine for my review, they have a pretty precise list of farming requirements, ingredient requirements and additive requirements that they look at,” said Leibee.

“I always tell them, ‘Hey, pitch me your five most delicious and well farmed wines. And then we kind of take it from there.’”

(Note: a certified organic retailer can sell both organic and non-organic products, but must keep the two separated.)

Said Howard, “Let’s be honest. Erewhon is a very aspirational shopping experience, and it is very niche, but let’s think about organic and where it was 30 years ago, it also was pretty aspirational.”

Howard: “Organic was pretty niche, and it took time for it to get to the place where now Walmart moves more organic baby food than any other retailer country.”

TIMELINES TODAY ARE SHORTER, GIVEN SOCIAL MEDIA TRENDS

“Now it's not going to take us 30 years to do that,” Howard added, “because one, we have a playbook with organic, two, the access to information is much faster, much greater, and three, we don't have time.

I mean, we literally just don't have time on this earth to wait 30 years for this to actually be of importance.

I think that the regenerative organic certification, being built on three pillars: soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness, is good news–we can actually speak to three different personas.”

IT IS SO MUCH BETTER WITH THE PHOTOS SO GO TO THE VERSION THAT HAS THEM

Leibee said Erehon showcases regenerative brands in the wine space, especially when it opens a new store.

“Every time we open a new location,” she said, “we hold what’s called a wellness day, and we invite brands to come out. We give out free vitamin B shots. There’s cold plunges. It’s a really fun event.

Because Erewhon had just opened the West Hollywood location, the company decided to make April there “Earth Month,” and invited about a dozen of ROC certified brands to participate.

Caption - Christopher Gergen, CEO of ROA, and Jason Whitener, COO of Erewhon, during April, designated Regenerative Organic Certified Month at Erewhon

“In our store, between grocery and my department (wine), we carry about 200 certified ROC brands. We usually see about 400 guests on these days, so it is a really, really big event, and a good percentage of those are our members. They’re very familiar with the types of products that we have, but many are just curious–people that are coming to visit for the first time.”

 Caption - Displays selling wine during April 2026 regenerative organic wine events at Erewhon featured Tablas Creek wines and Troon Vineyard’s sales director (and a Certified Master Sommelier) Nate Winters, CMS

“We invited two wineries to pour–Tablas Creek and Troon Vineyard.

“Nate from Troon comes down and trains our team once a year, and also pours, does demos, and brings so many informational tools. We poured a nice lineup of their skin contact wine, their glou glou, their Vermentino and their rose.

He was surrounded during the entire three hours.

It’s wine in a wellness space–that’s incredibly encouraging–because as we talked a little bit earlier about how wine sales are down. They are not down for me,” she said.

Leibee: “I have double digit growth [in wine] year over year for the last six years, so people are interested in wine, and the majority of the people that surrounded Nate through that three hours were between 21 and 35 years old.

We sell a lot of wine, we sell a lot of regenerative wine, organic wine, biodynamic wine, natural wine.”

Nate sold about four cases of wine for us that day, so we’re pretty pumped up. And Tablas did really well, as well that day, too.

Additionally, this photo means a lot to me, because it’s a similar setup to our demos that we do throughout the store all month long.”

PROMOTION, PROMOTION, PROMOTION

Last year, Leibee said she ran 1,000 consumer demos across the chain’s 11 stores.

“Not only does that provide our guests to have a really incredible experience with a winemaker or someone that works for a brand or a winery, but they’re also providing education to my team.

At the end of the day, it all boils down to education and training and standards.”

Management gives the wine team the opportunity to take WSET Level 1 at company expense. Team members with two years on staff get half reimbursal for Level 2 and 3.

“Education, training and demo opportunities are all giving my team the opportunity to learn from professionals which really does open the conversation and gets my team pumped up, along with incentives,” she added.

QUICK CUES FOR SHOPPERS ARE ESSENTIAL, EXPERTS SAY

Reyes asked how stores signal to buyers, who have maybe 15 seconds to look for a wine, which is regenerative.

“For Erewhon, we love shop talkers,” Leibee said. “We have a whole team of artists at our corporate office that do campaign signage for us, and typically we focus on farming first for all of our products, but we also include three talking points about the product on the shelf talker, so those help.

Brands can buy those–they're on the shelf for six months–and I watch sales. They work.

Erewhon also organizes the wall of wine intelligently and consistently. Highest priced wines are one the top shelf and lowest priced ones on the bottom so shoppers can focus on what they are looking for in terms of price and taste.

Said Leibee, “Our shoppers will scan the wine wall and usually gravitate towards something that has a shelf talker. Again, demos are incredibly important. We have a monthly Winemaker of the Month feature, and so when I'm working in the aisle, I want to promote the winery on the Winemaker of the Month.

“For example, this month we're showcasing Maison Mirabeau for their One Block Challenge and the One Day Rosé (certified organic by Ecocert and regenerative by A Greener World). I immediately take the shopper to the end cap feature on it.”

CERTIFICATION AND BOTTLE LABELING MATTER

“At the end of the day, if a guest comes in looking for something that is really incredibly farmed, I train my team to immediately go to a producer that has certification,” she added.

“I carry about 600 products [about half are wine], and more than half of those have certification. It's incredibly helpful to flip the wine bottle over, or the can of RTD over, to show the USDA, the biodynamic, the regenerative, the organic, simple, and that just seals the deal.

I also have my team members have one simple sentence to describe what regenerative is, because we really only do sometimes have 15 seconds with a guest, and so they have their script and they're able to seal the deal that way.

But as soon as our team starts talking about regenerative, they usually get excited, and when you get excited in the aisle, the guest gets excited, and then sometimes they take two bottles, which is wonderful, so it really is about, training and, and having those cues on the shelf and bottle that really help us.”

TRAINING MOVES THE NEEDLE

Erewhon now has about 2,600 employees, and during the month of April, when it had its ROC Wellness Day and ROC feature, each one of those employees took a Grow training module. This has been a major push point for the company to focus on regenerative and sell those products.

Howard commented, “That is the gold standard. Everything that she just described is amazing, but the reality is that not every retailer is that amazing. Not every retailer is that committed.

If you’ve been in a Whole Foods, or you’ve ever sold into Whole Foods, you know they don’t do shelf talkers. They also are not so keen to do end caps of mixed products, so they’re not going to do like an all ROC end cap. So working with them, we’re working on what does that look like there.

They tell us that they’re committed to making regenerative organic work, and we have brands that are coming to us, going, ‘Hey, I want to get into Whole Foods. Whole Foods wants me to be regenerative organic certified.’ That’s an awkward position.

She continued, “I would rather you [the producer] were here because you want to be here, but that’s part of the reality. And let’s face it, the majority of consumers in America are not laying awake at night worrying about soil health, but they are worried about what they’re putting into their body–"what’s in it for me.”

They want to be all about soil health, yay–but they’re not. They’re worried about what’s going in their body, they’re worried about how it tastes. This is where wine blends with regenerative, because it is better for you, it does taste better.

I loved that Tim LaSalle (another speaker) was talking about about nutrient density. We have a whole program going with Edacious Food Labs around testing food products for nutrient density, and it’s off the chart now.”

CREATING A HALO EFFECT FOR ROC ACROSS PRODUCTS

Said Howard, “How does that [nutrient density] apply to wine? Not quite as much, but what it’s doing is creating a halo effect.

We’re working with personal care, and cosmetics, food and beverage, including wine. We also have some distilled spirits.

When the consumer eats [ROC] Lundberg rice and they know that the nutrient density on that rice is off the charts and it’s regenerative organic certified, and then they turn around and they see a bottle of wine–that tells a story.”

STIMULATING THE DEMAND SIDE: REGENERATIVE VITICULTURE FOUNDATION HOLDING NEW CONVERSATIONS WITH BUYERS

During the Q and A discussion, former Robert Hall general manager Caine Thompson, of the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation (RVF) shared news from his recent trip to South Africa wineries and RVF’s recent epiphany that it needs to work on the demand side of regeneratively farmed wine.

Said Thompson, “We're launching the One Block Challenge down in South Africa for Stellenbosch wine growers, and a number of growers came up after that from large areas outside of Stellenbosch, and said, ‘This sounds amazing, and it's incredible. We'll do it tomorrow, but the co-op is not asking for it, the wholesaler is not asking for it, the retailer is not asking for it, on premise accounts not asking for it, the EMA is not asking for it, Schumacher is not asking for it.’

“And there was one of those big aha moments for the RVF is that we're doing all this work on the supply side, and we've not done anything on the demand side. So from that, we put together a key initiative. So there's now two key initiatives of the foundation–the supply side, which is the One Block Challenge–and then the other side, the demand side, and that is about bringing retailers, the monopolies, on-premise accounts, and airlines along to align on what regenerative farming actually is.”

The retailers’ reception has been warm, he said.

“It's amazing the level of interest from large retailers–Whole Foods, Albertsons, Waitrose, Virgin Airlines, United, Marriott Group, Hyatt, big accounts in Europe, as well, Sainsbury's–all coming together, along with monopolies, as well, SAQ, LCBO, Swedish, and Norwegian monopolies.

There's a lot of interest, there's a lot of alignment, and it's really exciting, because if we really are going to accelerate regenerative farming, there's got to be an economic reason, as much as we all here would love for it to be heart, body, mind, and soul. There's got to be an economic incentive from the demand side.”

Friday, June 26, 2026

In Vineyard Demos, Bio Based Tech Wows at Central Coast's First Mindset Regenerative Conference

Bug spraying drones that provide uniform coverage, UV light robots that fend off mildew (and eliminate the need for sulfur) and a digital app for regenerative farming support wowed. 


 JUNE 23, 2026 

I had read about drones being used to spray bugs (not chemicals) over vineyards, but the reality of actually seeing one at work was, pardon me, mega cool. I never thought much about how they worked, attributing it just to some distant, magical mechanics. But…in reality, it was much cooler than in words. And one starts to understand the immense applications where it is saving both time and money AND doing a better job. 

Regenerative ag isn’t just about soil and the microbiome. It’s also about using natural predators. I have to wonder if the originators of IPM (integrated pest management) ever could have imagined how drones would become the work horses of IPM. 

It’s the spinning columns on the bottom of the drones, whirring away, blending bugs with a medium (in most cases, vermiculite) to add more body to the breeze that got me. And the fact that the drone operator can remotely control the speed at which they spin, modifying the dosage rate on the (oh, excuse me) fly. 


And then came the robots. Is that even the word for them? They looked nothing like the robots of sci-fi fame. (Remember the 1965 TV series Lost in Space?) But robots will come in a separate article as I realize now that the drones deserve a post all their own. 

And, last, but not least, the tech wows included a way to keep track of soil health progress–an essential but often unsung hero/heroine as part of a regenerative system that is based less on inputs and more on measurable outcomes. 

 Part 1 Parabug’s Bug Bomber Demo: The Way of A Drone Powered Bug Sprayer 


Overview: Parabug is a beneficial insect applicator company based in Salinas. They use DJI drones modified for agricultural spraying. The drones, which have a 55-pound weight limit, are crucial for minimizing prop wash to avoid harming delicate insects. The company typically charges $20 per acre for insect applications, with the most expensive insect being the Anagyrus vladimiri (a parasitic wasp) for vineyards, costing $25 per wasp and $250 per acre for bugs alone. 

They also work with Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, a mealy bug destroyer. 

They have serviced vineyards up to 300 acres. Applications are more uniform than hand spraying and appear to be cost effective even for small growers. 

This article is a minimally edited version of the audio taken from the demo. If you prefer to listen to the original audio, you can do so here.  

THE MINDSET CONFERENCE DEMO 

 “Technically, although based in Salinas, I [Parabug rep] am from San Luis Obispo. I grew up here, and I fly everywhere from Oxnard, which is just north of LA, all the way to Paso Robles. 

“Our work is really seasonal. We start the year with strawberries exclusively in the winter. That’s the second planting of strawberry crops. There’s a fall planting and a winter planting. The longer season is the winter planting that extends from November all the way to August when they’ll start ripping out fields. 

“We do a lot of our work early on in the season with predatory mites. What we are is a beneficial insect applicator company, so we’re a specialized drone service company. 

And we’re also a technology company. “So this drone here is a DJI. So if you ever bought it like a little hobby drone yourself, it would actually just be this drone model, the same company. “This is their smallest model of agricultural spray band, and we just modified it. So, typically this would have a two and a half gallon tank right here, and these nozzles here on the end. These are actually for spraying, we just don’t use them. So, we took out the tank and we added our control box, which is right here, we also power tap the battery. 

GO HERE TO READ THE REST
 
“I’m not constantly changing these out all day. This is our power tap that attaches to the battery and powers our system, so the control box in these two tube systems here. This is technology that our engineer developed in house. Our engineer is actually a full-time employee for John Deere, and this is a side gig. His wife is the general business owner and who runs day to day operations. 

“My background is in entomology, so I’m really not a drone guy. I had never flown a drone before I started the job. Our operations manager taught me everything in a couple weeks, and then set me off on my own. Question: Did you have to get a license? “Yeah, there’s two licenses. There’s an FAA Part 107 which is what we operate under. Part 107 covers drones under 55 pounds. 

“If you are over 55 pounds, you have to have what’s called the Part 137 and that’s a general business license, so that’s not even an individual licensing system. “We really like the small drones for a reason. “There’s a certain amount of prop wash that comes off of this. 

Question: What is prop wash? “Oh, the force applied by the propeller, right? When you have a larger drone, that force is higher, and the insects that we work with are really delicate, so if there’s any added force from the drone system itself, it could kill them while they’re being dispensed. 

“Unfortunately, this drone model, I believe, is discontinued now, since this is a Chinese-made drone, which is currently being barred from import in the US. “So we’re actually looking at other drone systems constantly. We have some pilots that don’t operate on this system. 

“Parabug actually leases the technology, so that the tube system to other ag service companies, like Nutrien, flies with our system. There’s people in Canada, Australia, Washington, Oregon, Florida, that all can provide the same service that we do in house.” 

Question: Who you get your bugs from, or do you manufacture bugs too? 

“We do not. 

“I actually used to work in an insectary briefly. I was a PCA for them. We had a weird little co-op system with our local growers. They shut down, and that’s actually who got me in contact with grower bugs. 

“So I hopped from the insectary system to this. “We don’t grow any insects in house. We can broker them for growers, but there’s just so many things that can go wrong with rearing insects. 

“We don’t purchase insects . . .Typically, it’s growers. We give our growers free choice of the insectaries that they choose. If they have a system set up already, we can just hop in, and they can bargain for deals from different people. Happens quite a bit.  
Question: What would you say is the scalability? Being worth it and not worth it? And what typical size do you usually service?  
“For farms that are far away, we have a 50 acre minimum, and that comes out to $1,000, typically, where $20 per acre is our application cost, so we’re actually typically like a fraction of the cost compared to the insects themselves. “I’ve picked up insect orders, which are like $150 per acre before, particularly for vineyards. 

“Actually, the most expensive insect we work with is for vineyards, anagyrus vladimiri. It’s a mealybug parasitoid. I’ve heard it goes out upwards of 25 cents per wasp and 250 wasps per acre is typically the standard. [That translates to $62.50 per acre in bugs]. 

We do a lot of that for Sun Pacific in the Central Valley. They’re a table grape grower. 

Question: What’s the biggest vineyard you do? 

“We’ve done 300 acre vineyards in the San Joaquin Valley. We start in Arvin down south at the start of the season. We work our way north. 

“We actually work with so many insects that we usually will end up buying out the stock at an insectary, or the insectary can’t even provide us the amount of insects we always need, because it’s not the scale that they’re typically used to working with.  
Question: And those are conventional growers, for the most part, aren’t they? 

Yeah. 

Question: How long have you been doing this? How long has this been a part of the zeitgeist of farming in California? 

“The insectary I worked at Associates Insectary has been around for 100 years… we think they’re the oldest in the country. It’s in Santa Paula. So it’s an hour north of L.A. and they reared Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, which is the mealy bug destroyer, which is the other insect that we typically will release in vineyards. 

Question: So it’s releasing beneficial insects instead of using pesticide? Yes. 

 Question: What is the survival rate as you drop? 

“From our system? It’s comparable to hand release, but once they’re in the field, it’s totally dependent on weather and other things that have been applied. 

Question: Are you forecasting before flights? Like, if there’s a wind event in the next 72 hours, are you going to drop bugs?

“Yeah. We don’t fly above 15 mile per hour winds. Usually our growers will just text me, and then I’ll check the weather that day, but I’m typically out in the field at sunrise to avoid any problems with the wind, especially here on the coast. I typically can’t fly past noon here. 

Question: And then, is there an ideal temperature you want to be dropping bugs for like next 72 hours, or does it depends on the species? How does that work? Because anagyrus, like every time I release them [by hand] you just hang a cup, whereas cryptolemus, it’s a little bit more tedious. But how do you release anagyrus?

“We release all the insects the same way. Okay, let me turn this on. 

 
“You guys want a handout of the species we work with? I got some here, I can hand them out, and then they come with either the insects themselves, depends on the species. 

“This is vermiculite. It’s a soil amendment. The insects come packed with that, typically because they respire in the packaging that wicks up moisture. So I’ll essentially just dumb insects into my tube systems like this. 

“This is what we’ll use for vineyards, typically. It comes out of the drone uniformly, compared to vermiculite, which is relatively uneven. 

“I use this in the field, but there’s no live insects in this demo. 

“In practice, we mix the live insects in vermiculite. Sometimes they’re super minute. Sometimes they’ll come undiluted, so like lace-wing eggs, so it’ll just be mixed in this all of this tube. 

Question: And you can you set application rates too? 

“Yeah. Sometimes growers want two insects, and then that’s when I’ll have to do some tweaking. 

“I actually have these two systems here attached to the drone. These are weight sensors, so every time I turn the drone on, it zeros out the weight. 

“A fully loaded tube is about 32 ounces, and I can get about 12 acres per flight, so I’m typically aiming to be releasing about three ounces of material per acre. 

Our big shtick is that it’s really hard to do a uniform hand release when you get hand release bottles. This is what they’ll look like in the field, and then your capsules…your grower will tell you, hey, put out 200 insects per acre, and you know it’s almost impossible to do that hand spraying. 

“We work with so many species. Mites have a really low amount of ability to move. Parasitoids like anagyrus and crypto-lamus, they can move up to miles, especially depending on the wind. 


TAKING OFF 

“I can control the openings on these tubes remotely-the speed at which they spin. So these tubes are spinning while I fly, and that’s just how we get the uniform application. 

“The big benefit that growers see is especially with things like mite species, those are aggregate pests, and mealy bugs as well. 
When we do a uniform application, they get less hot spots in the field, and year over year, when we’re doing anagyrus, they’re seeing less mealy bugs, more mealy bug suppression, because the anagyrus will over winter. 

“All right, I am going to take off. It’s gonna get pretty dusty if you guys want to face the other way.” 

AUDIO 

This article is a minimally edited version of the audio taken from the demo. If you prefer to listen to the original audio, you can do so here. 

PARABUG STICKERS, CUPS AND MORE 

Parabug also has really cool swag in their online shop. And a good Instagram channel with lots of videos. Their website has more information about the history of the company, too, which is pretty interesting. 

Next up: The SAGA robots for mildew control. The UV kill spores AND eliminate the need for sulfur applications in the vines, something winemakers are quite excited about.

Thursday, June 25, 2026

Remembering Eileen Crane | Who Also Made Domaine Carneros Organic for a Time

 Sharing some special moments from a 2013 interview I did when founder Eileen Crane led the Carneros sparkling wine house to organic farming and certification.

See this post with PHOTOs here.

In 2011 when I was first getting into wine, and focusing producers who farmed organically, I was very impressed to find Domaine Carneros as the sole French founded sparkling wine producer with organic grapes.

I was inspired to start a blog and launch apps - Organically Napa was one (no longer available) – and it was around then that I visited Eileen Crane and tasted with her. What a treat! I am glad I still have a recording and transcript of our interview which I dug out of my archives to share with you to honor her recent passing at the age of 77.

PHOTO of Eileen Crane with Julia Childs on Child’s 90th birthday in 2002 opening a bottle of Domaine Corneros’ Frivolites sparkling wine. Peggy Loar (then ED at Copia) looks on.

As so many have said, Eileen was most gracious and welcoming. I will never forget her interview with me and her kindness in seating me next to her and her husband at one of the winery’s famous lobster dinners.

Now, years later, I appreciate her for her rarely mentioned organic legacy as well as her many other accomplishments and her warmth and patience.

Today only Gloria Ferrer (the other winery she originally founded and ran) is now farming organically (certified) and has recently certified 300 acres in Sonoma.

Interview highlights:

• When Domaine Carneros opened in 1990, its historic French chateau look was criticized by some locals.

• At the grand opening, the plan had been to dress in historic French costumes, but no one could fit into the rented gowns as they were too small.

• In the year 2000 as the world marked the millennium, founder and owner Claude Taittinger celebrated at his famous Parisian hotel by serving his 500 guests Domaine Carneros’ Le Reve, which he chose because he said the most significant thing in 1000 years was the discovery on “making wine in the New World.”

• The journey to organic was a passion of Crane’s. (Sadly a retreat followed due to mildew pressure). Crane said it cost only 4 percent more to farm organically.

The Interview

PHOTO Chief Bubblehead

Crane | We started trying to go organic in 91, 92, but it was really hard back then. You were kind of on your own. Nobody else was doing it. And there’s something about getting a group of people who can share information and who are more knowledgeable, in that you don’t have to do all the research yourself.

We had some successes and some failures.

We went for organic certification in 2004. Got it in 2007. The winery was certified just before harvest in 2009. So now we have more bottles that say organic on the organic label.

But sparkling wine is such a long process. We have one wine that between harvest and its release takes seven years.

[Around 2013, the winery ended its organic certification and became sustainable certified].

So this culture of being interested in being organic – where did that come from? Did it come from France? Did it come from the corporate ownership? Where does it come from?

Well I’ve always been interested in it – sort of innate. To me. I don’t know why. Like the solar panels I learned about in graduate school and that just sort of made so much sense to me. I love beauty and nature so I have a real bent towards, just wanting to be and participate in beautiful things, I come to work here every day – five days a week for the last 26 years, and people stop and look around so it was a nice area, but it wasn’t gorgeous like this. So to me beauty is just a value and you only keep things beautiful by preserving them, taking care of them.

Maybe that’s probably a funny thing to have organic and solar panels as a love of beauty but it’s a concern for the earth and keeping it this magical place that it is.

I am also interested in sparkling wine buyers...cause I don’t really know much about them as a subset of wine buyers. What can you tell me about the people who buy bubbles?

The bubbleheads?

I’m the chief bubblehead. I should put that on my card. When I met the guy who runs Semifreddi’s – the bakery – and his card said Chief Bootlicker, I thought I could have mine say Chief Bubblehead.

As soon as people get into the category, they learn the most important thing is balance. That is a wine that when you smell it, what it tastes like, what the finish is like – all works in concert – and nothing’s overwhelming.

So we do know that a lot more women drink sparkling wine in this country than men.

That tends to be…but that’s not always the case. There are certainly many men who love sparkling wine.

I think it’s also people who have traveled more. Like when you go to Europe, if you eat in a white tablecloth restaurant in France, and not even in a fancy restaurant. A lot of regions will have their sparkling cocktail.

For instance, in Normandy it will be a sparkling wine with a little bit of maybe Calvados in it, and some apple or something. The kir royal is a little bit of cassis and sparkling wine.

Go to England and you’ll see people in pubs ordering bottles of Champagne. In pubs. And so they’re eating pub food but that doesn’t prevent them from enjoying a bottle of bubbles.

So I think that with this European experience, in the United States, we’re surprisingly backwards about sparkling wine and its use.

I do see that our biggest market is by far in California and the West Coast. There are many good restaurants that will serve a good sparkling wine.

We’ve had so much of that “wedding wine” in this country. The caterers say you want to buy the cheapest because nobody will drink it. Now there’s a self fulfilling prophecy. You buy the cheapest of any wine and people are not going to be very happy about drinking it.

Also sparkling wine often gets served with the wedding cake. And that’s not good…that comes from a historic trend – champagnes and sparkling wines used to be very sweet.

So talk to me a little bit about what it’s like to be owned by a French company.

The family – the Taittinger family – it’s a family owned winery – they’re Champagne based…and traded on the Bourse, the exchange in France, but it’s been family controlled forever. It’s one of the last Champagne houses of any size that’s still family controlled. And they grow far more of their own grapes, like we do.

We didn’t actually talk about our certification. We have 300 acres of grapes and 100 percent of them are CCOF. Cause a lot of wineries will show you the 10 acres out of their 200…

Or they say they’re organic and yet they have only four acres that are organic.

What did you do before wine?

My graduate work at UConn was in nutrition and biochemistry. I lived in New Haven, Connecticut which is where the Culinary Institute of America was located. I’d always been interested in wine, because my dad had a wine cellar in the 1950s. And in my early 20s, I was very interested in winemaking.

When I found out you could study winemaking in California, I moved out here, gave up my tenured track at UConn and took classes for several months and started working at Domaine Chandon. I was there six years in the laboratory mostly, and then became the assistant winemaker eventually, and then I was hired at Gloria Ferrer.

I was there three years and then the Taittingers hired me to do the construction and build this winery.

We started Domaine Carneros in 1987.

So how is it working for French companies. Have they settled if there’s an American or Californian sparkling wine style?

There isn’t just one American sparkling wine style and there’s not one French sparkling wine style either – they’re all over the place.

THE ART OF CHAMPAGNE

I went through eight interviews before they hired me. They tasted their wine, tasted my wine.

I was hired by Claude Taittinger (1927-2022), who was an art collector – he’s now retired [in 2013] , but he was an art collector.

Taittinger has a very decided style and so do I. So it was pretty much a marriage of style.

Claude Taittinger said to me, “Great things are always originals, they’re never imitations.” The analogy he used was Picasso would have been unknown if he had been trying to imitate Renoir. So now as Domaine Carneros, you must be an original style.

Most of the other French houses had sent over a winemaker for a week to do the blends. Taittinger has never done that. We’ve always made them here. So it’s very much – we are our own shape, form, evolution.

Art is a good analogy because people say, ‘Well, do you still produce the same wine you did?”

I say Picasso went through a blue stage and a rose stage and Picasso went through different stages, in his artistic career and winemakers do that, but you can usually see the relationship at different stages.

We get better every single year.

Though people who had our wines maybe 5 years ago or 15 years ago, still recognize the style, the style has evolved more. And we also make several more different styles of wine than we used to.

As a winemaker, I know great wines are always wines of a place.

You can make very good wines if you buy from various locations around, but it takes a winemaker a long time to get to know their vineyards because you only get one crop a year.

I’ve been making sparkling wine for 36 years. I’ve only made sparkling wine 36 times. A chef might make their famous dish 36 times a night.

In the wine business, experience counts for much more than almost any other industry because it’s a slow process that takes a long time.

So having your own vineyards and really being able to hone in on how you adjust – how you prune them, how you manage them, how you harvest them. Having your own grapes is enormously important.

So is Taittinger organic in France?

No, you know, because of the conditions. They have rain all summer long. And we’re very blessed with a dry season. So there are people in France who are going organic or biodynamic. Champagne is very northerly so I think it would be very hard to do that.

[Subsequently, people have tried but few have succeeded.]

Because?

Because they get rains and often they’re harvesting very late in the season when it’s cold and they’ve been rained on, cause they have such a slow ripening…you keep waiting.

Whereas we always get ripeness and if we get an unexpected rain in the summer, it’s very breezy right through here and we get dry very quickly. I’ve only seen rain damage in sparkling wine once in 36 years.

Taittinger grows more than 50 percent of their own grapes which in Champagne is extraordinary. The fact that we do 96% of our own is extraordinary.

You never get the quality from vendors that you get from having your own grapes. The grower has a different incentive than the winemaker does.

I didn’t actually find out agewise what type of person is attracted to sparkling wine? Who are the bubbleheads, agewise?

I’m not sure that there’s an age group. I think the 20-30 age range that’s coming along right now [this was in 2013], we have a lot of enthusiastic supporters in that age group but we also have a wonderful wine club. We do a lot of social events and we have a beautiful outside space you can sit in.

But we have people who come and show us that they just turned 21 and we have people who are in their 80s drinking bubbles…or 90s…we have people from Topeka, Kansas who come here every summer and come here and sit out on the terrace everyday that they’re here and drink bubbles. It’s actually a group of gals – it’s four gals who come and they call this home. And they usually come for the Le Reve and lobster party we do in the middle of the summer. And then there are neighbors who come and sit on the terrace.

Chateau de la Marquetrie PHOTO

So let’s talk a little bit about the decision to make the building look like what it looks like. How did that come about?

Well, the Taittingers own a historic chateau called the Chateau de la Marquetrie..and we’ll do a little walkaround and I will show you a picture of the Marquetrie…and the Taittingers have always been interested in historic architecture. So when they took over in the mid 1930s, they started acquiring some historic buildings, and the Chateau de la Marquetrie was one of the first of them.

And then in the center of France, Reims, they own an old house, a mansion, of the Count of Champagne.

And then they have these historic cellars – based on an old abbey. So they’ve got this great interest in historic architecture, preserving it and repurposing it so it can stay alive.

So when it came time to build a winery, the Taittingers convinced the other partners that new winery in Carneros should be a chateau based on their Chateau de la Marquetrie.

Domaine Carneros PHOTO

Their argument was that they expected to produce world class wines here and they wanted something that said “world class” as far as a statement.

When this Domaine Carneros building was first built, there were a lot of people who were horrified and said this doesn’t fit in with the territory, etc.

But if you look at Mondavi, for instance, Mission style is basically a form of what came out of North Africa. But it came here by way of Spain.

And so what would fit in with the territory? Would it be tipis? I don’t know.

The Taittingers wanted to do something that would clearly say ‘world class.’

And they loved their Chateau de la Marquetrie and they wanted this recreated in the U.S.

So I was at the Napa Historical Society last weekend and I saw these photos from when the winery opened when it first opened – people dressed up in the French costumes.

Yes, the Grand Opening.

Do you still do costume things or?

Well for the Grand Opening, it turned out that the costumes from the Dangerous Liasons show had just come off of a year long loan, like two days before the Grand Opening. So we were able to use them.

There was just one problem. They were all these gorgeous costumes, but the waists were very tiny.

We were very heart broken; we were sure we were going to wear them.

So we went to the high school and tried to get people who were size 8’s but they couldn’t…The costumes were like size 4’s.

BEST MOMENTS - THE MILLENIUM MARKED AN AUSPICIOUS TURNING POINT

Eileen: I had Le Reve on the millennium. It was exciting. Befitting.

Claude Taittinger served it to 500 of his closest friends. He owned the Hotel de Crillon in Paris at the time.

I asked him why they chose that? Because, he said, it was making wine in the New World, which he said was one of the most significant things in the last 1,000 years.”

Have you noticed anything different since you started growing organically?

The quality of the grapes is just phenomenal. I mean originally we did it for the guys and gals working in the vineyard. And it was really thinking that it would be a much healthier environment, but the vines just look so much more vibrant and healthy and the fruit that you get has so much more body and finish. Every year, they get better because the soils get better because we’re not spraying herbicides.

The soils keep getting richer and better all the time, and the vines look healthier and the grapes get better. A lot of people don’t do it because they think it’s too much work or they think it’s going to be too expensive and it is more expensive, but it’s not. I think we figured out it costs us 4 percent more to farm organically than non organically.

Well some people say ‘we’re organic but we’re not doing the paperwork.’ Well going organic is this much work [big] and the paperwork is like this much work [tiny].

People steal our (CCOF) signs all the time. So that’s why I put out those certificates. To show that we’re actually real. Cause a lot of people just steal the signs.

I’ve always been mystified by people’s denial about the value of certification. They all say ‘oh the paper work, oh the cost.’

For one place it was like 4 cents a bottle, cause the government gives you back the fees…like half or three quarters.

Do you have a consultant?

No, we’ve done it in house and the CCOF people are helpful. I mean it’s some work but it’s not onerous.

Take us through these next wine– so the rose is named for Madame Pompadour…the Cuvee de la Pompadour…[now called simply their rosé]

So the rosé – part of a rosé’s identity is its color and it’s really the only sparkling wine that has a color identity. They can be almost red. Some sparkling wines are red. But then they can just be an off gold. But this actually has a little more color than most of the rosés, but I like this sort of soft peach color. We make a rosé by leaving it in contact with the skin.

Most people add red wine back to the cuvee. In Champagne they don’t get enough color from the Pinot Noir grapes, so they have to add red wine, but we leave it in contact. About 20 percent of the Pinot Noir we bring in, we leave in contact for the rosé, with the skin.

It has a very interesting finish.

It’s our prettiest wine, but it’s not sweeter. A lot of people actually think this is drier than the Brut.

So how are French people finding the wines when they come?

They respond pretty favorably. A lot of the Champagne producers are concerned because California sparkling is generally less expensive than Champagne. So you can get a heck of a good bottle here for a lot less.

So what part of the process do you love? What part do you get sort of little high about?

Harvest. The grapes come in and the grapes smell good. The aromas keep changing. When you first press the grapes, you get the aroma of this fresh juice and then as it ferments in the cellar, the fermentation smells change during the fermentation. And then you have the new wines to taste. But I also like the cuvee blending.

I was going to ask you about that –isn’t that kind of where the magic happens?

If you did your job right during harvest, that’s where the magic happens, but you have to…it’s like a chef in the kitchen.

The grapes, or your ingredients, have to be just right.

And how you handle the early phase is like preparing a meal – in preparing a meal, it has to be just right. The assemblage is putting all those properly produced elements together.

The assemblage is a great challenge because you haven’t done that job for a whole year.

At harvest, if you make a mistake in the first couple of days, it’s a big one.

Often sparkling harvest is only 10 or 12 days long. You have to get your mind to kick in really fast and think ‘Okay.’

Because I’ve worked with these vineyards and before, for another ten years, in Carneros. I have this mental inventory.

‘Oh, I remember this happened in 1984…and this was the situation and this was how we handled it and it worked.’

And you pull out from this rolodex or piles of information from past years and that didn’t work out… let’s see how we’re going to handle this.

And we had one clone here–we still have it–and the very first year when I picked it, it has a very muscaty, very over the top quality and I just thought ‘Oh.’

Of course I wasn’t anxious to tell my brand new employers that we were going to have to pull it out…a young healthy block of vines. So the next year I thought, ‘Why don’t we try harvesting it several days earlier, before it’s really ripened.’ And I did that and it was better. Actually it’s now one of the backbone clones in the Le Reve. And I don’t use a lot of it. But in the Le Reve there’s usually 5-7 percent of it.

I love our wine with shellfish. Scallops is probably the most perfect match. We do a fun party in the summer with members called Le Reve and Lobster. Which is very casual. It’s just lobsters, out on the tables, and blueberry pie. With a slab of vanilla ice cream.

So Maine [where I used to live].

With a shooter of clam chowder. It’s informal. It’s fun. We hand out bibs. It’s silly and fun and delicious. We do those all summer long. People really love it.

Maybe you would like to come to one.

Yes. [And I did…and I will never forget it. Thank you, Eileen. And may there be more lobster dinners in heaven with your wines.] PHOTO

Friday, June 5, 2026

The Cool Kids Are Gathering in One Epic Afternoon Tasting in Cambria: SLO Coast Hosted at Parr Wines June 28

The most amazing collection of wines and wineries. With gas prices gone wild, you can stop having to drive hither and yon and just come to this one big beautiful tasting.

Many of California most beloved indie wineries will be pouring June 28 in Cambria at the SLO COAST & FRIENDS 2026 event. Tickets are $50.

Tickets on sale here

• From the North Coast: Drew Family, Jaime Motley, Matt Taylor Wines, Pax, Preston

• From Oregon!: Johan Vineyards

• From the SLO Coast: Lady of the Sunshine, Scar of the Sea, Parr Wines 

• From the Central Coast/Paso: Lone Madrone, Stirm

• From SBC: Amevive, Ojai

Almost all of these wineries have appeared in Slow Wine USA. You can order a copy on Amazon.com or Bookshop.

Hope to see you at Raj’s. It’s definitely worth the drive