Farming has changed a lot since 1976 when harsher and more toxic chemicals were more commonly used. (Even though many disease-related agrochemicals are still used today.) Six winners are now organic.
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PHOTO Stephen Spurrier, who organized the tasting with Patricia Gallagher
As the wine industry approaches the 50th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris (the historic blind tasting that redefined California wine), many wineries involved in the tasting are celebrating with exclusive dinners, parties and celebrations across the country.
Here is Patricia Gallagher, who suggested the tasting to Stephen Spurrier, and organized it with him, as she reminisces about organizing the event. (Video filmed at a memorial to Spurrier several years ago).
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While the wineries who participated in the 1976 Paris Tasting have a lot to celebrate, celebrations should also recognize the enormous farming improvements in Napa and across California, reducing the number and type of toxic chemicals applied to wine grape vineyards.
Six wineries from the 1976 event have converted their vineyards to organic farming and certification.
That said, the state continues to trail European wine producers in the percentage of vineyards that are organic (and do not use synthetic chemicals).
4 versus 20
In California four percent of vineyard acres are certified organic. In Italy, France and Spain, 20 percent of vineyards are certified organic.
A lot has changed–for the better–in wine grape farming since the early 1970s when DDT was banned and the most commonly used herbicides in California then became (gasp) atrazine and paraquat–both extremely toxic, declared carcinogenic by scientists and banned in Europe. Over the decades, the state of California and growers (with pressure from the state) phased these out. (Chinese owned Syngenta, which makes paraquat, announced it will no long manufacture it as of this year.)
Unfortunately corn farmers in Iowa have not stopped using atrazine and the state, sadly, is a leader in cancer cases. (Note: it was U.C. Berkeley star scientist Tyrone Hayes who researched atrazine’s toxic effects and who survived the then Swiss-owned Syngenta’s extreme smear campaign against his research).
Many growers have replaced those carcinogens with biopesticides and mineral oil sprays, but the world has not yet found a non toxic herbicide alternative.
Organic growers remove weeds mechanically. Some say that results in a more costly and economically unsustainable operation. Others say it costs about the same to farm organically as conventionally. It is an ongoing debate. (See here and here.)
Celebrating Farming Changes
But on to the celebration part.
The prestigious 50th anniversary is shared across a small group of Napa Valley wineries (there were 30 in all at the time). Six of the top winners (including five from Napa) have now transitioned to organic on their estates:
Organic Certification
Regenerative Organic in Napa: Grgich Hills Estate (100%), Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (partial)
Organic in Napa: Heitz Cellar (100%), Mayacamas Vineyards, Freemark Abbey (estate only)
Organic in Other Locations: Ridge Vineyards (Sonoma and Santa Clara Mountains) (estate only)
Other Winners (Not Certified Organic)
Napa: Chateau Montelena, Clos du Val, Spring Mountain Vineyard, Veedercrest (no longer producing)
Other Locations: Chalone (Monterey County) and David Bruce (Santa Cruz Mountains)
Pesticide History | 50 Years Ago
Curious to know what vineyards were sprayed with, I asked Chat GPT for a rundown on what pesticides were used in Napa in 1973.
Here is what it told me (verified with a few local experts to make sure it was accurate):
1) Organochlorine insecticides (declining but still present)
• DDT – widely used in U.S. agriculture through the 1950s–60s and still lingering into the early 1970s [and today] before its 1972 ban
• Dicofol – a DDT-related miticide used on grapes (notably for spider mites)
• Other chlorinated hydrocarbons (varied by site)
Evidence from vineyard sediment cores shows a peak of DDT residues around ~1970, consistent with heavy use just before the ban.
(My Note: Although DDT was banned in 1972, historic illegal DDT dumping in the ocean, primarily in Southern California, continues to be a toxic hazard for birds who eat marine mammal prey who have eaten DDT. Officials discovered some of the major dump sites as recently as in 2020.)
2) Organophosphate insecticides (replacing DDT-era chemicals)
• Parathion (very toxic, used on fruit crops)
• Malathion (less toxic alternative, widely used)
These became common in the late 1960s–1970s as DDT was phased out.
3) Early herbicides (beginning of “clean vineyard floor” era)
• Atrazine – used in vineyards by the late 1960s–70s
• Paraquat – widely used in California agriculture in the 1970s
This period marks a shift toward bare-soil vineyard management, which increased erosion and pesticide runoff .
4) Early synthetic fungicides
• Captan (introduced 1950s, widely used by 1970s)
• Mancozeb (introduced early 1960s)
These supplemented sulfur/copper for disease control.
What this means specifically for Napa in 1973
A typical Napa vineyard in 1973 would likely have used a mix of:
• Fungicides: sulfur, copper, captan, mancozeb
• Insecticides: dicofol, malathion, possibly residual DDT-era compounds
• Herbicides: paraquat and/or atrazine
• (Possibly) highly toxic organophosphates like parathion
The exact mix varied by grower, pest pressure, and vineyard practices—but this combination reflects mainstream California viticulture at the time.
Important context
• 1973 sits right at the transition:
◦ DDT had just been banned (1972), but residues and some use persisted briefly.
◦ Organophosphates and herbicides were expanding.
• Compared to today, pesticide regimes were often:
◦ More toxic (acute toxicity)
◦ Less regulated and less precisely applied
Wine Grape Pesticides Today
Across the state, things have gotten better over 50 years, but toxins still remain as regular sprays in vineyards.
Glyphosate is now known with even more certainty to be harmful to human health but is still widely used, even in fine wine regions. In 2026, scientists proved that a key 2000 study Monsanto and Bayer relied on to say that glyphosate was safe to use was, in fact, based on falsified data by scientist collaborators paid by Monsanto. The study was, at last, retracted.
Glufosinate-ammonium, a neurotoxin, is a suspected endocrine disruptor and reproductive toxin.
With the exception of Napa Green, sustainability certifications do not prohibit herbicide use.
This 2023 data below comes from the California Department of Pesticide Regulations. More recent data has not yet been released in a summary report format.
See https://organicwineuncorked.substack.com/p/the-1976-paris-tasting-my-how-the
You can see the full list of what is applied to wine grapes in Napa here.
See https://organicwineuncorked.substack.com/p/the-1976-paris-tasting-my-how-the
Find the Celebration of Your Choice
But let’s focus on the positive. Raise a glass to salute the vineyard managers who led the teams that converted these vineyards to organic:
• Ivo Jeramaz, Grgich Hills Estate
• David Gates, Ridge Vineyards
• Guillermo Perez, Stag’s Leap
• Phil Coturri (and company), Mayacamas Vineyard
• Mark Neal, Heitz Cellar (now Martha’s Vineyard)
—These wineries are holding individual celebrations as well as participating in wider festivities.
Grgich Hills Estate | May 2 (Chardonnay Masterclass) | May 30 | Video from the 40th Anniversary
Ridge Vineyards | May 17 in Napa | Video 2026 | Video 2022
Stags Leap Wine Cellars | June 13 and more in the fall
—COPIA is offering an event encompassing all of to the participating wineries.
COPIA | Napa All Events
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