Tuesday, August 18, 2026

Ground Cover to the Rescue? Innovative Opus One Trial Explores Impact of Tiny Natives on Water Uptake | Napa Valley Grapegrowers' Organic Field Day at Opus One (Part 1 of 2)

This innovative trial explores a variety of test plots of native grasses to solve water issues.

See the post as God intended (with photos, etc.) on free substack post.

A Long Term Relationship

Mankind has been “managing” weeds for more than 5,000 years, and hasn’t found the perfect system in crops or vineyards yet, but the latest frontier in researching ground cover for wine growers is taking an unexpectedly rigorous turn at Opus One with the help of Selena Vengco, biologist and native plant specialist at U.C. Cooperative Extension and veteran agro-ecologist Dave Kaplow (of Eco-Management in Santa Rosa).

Kaplow’s approach stands in contrast to regenerative organic cover crop initiatives that focus on quick start biodiversity, planting seed mixes with as many as 28 species in a vineyard.

Kaplow says his approach, though slower to take root, is road tested and built for the long haul.

Opus One assistant winemaker and viticulturist Kimberlee Marinelli shared the innovative trial on ground cover with a crowd of about 30 people attending the third field day July 22 in a forward-thinking series on organic wine growing education (under the leadership of the Napa Valley Grapegrowers) during their “organic month” series in July.

A New Estate Vineyard | Ground Cover Trial Site

Vengco and Kaplow worked with the Opus One team as the winery takes on a newly acquired, 33 acre Oakville vineyard (the former Stanton vineyard) along the Napa River.

See the post as God intended (with photos, etc.) on free substack post.

Kimberlee Marinelli photo

“Opus One purchased it in early 2025 so this is kind of our first couple of years really understanding this property,” said Marinelli. “A big thing that we’ve been doing at Opus One is questioning all of our viticultural practices, really thinking about how stewardship is at the crux of what we do.”

Farmed organically since 2011, she said, the estate was certified in 2022.

In 2022, the team heard from Mimi Casteel at a Napa Rise event talking about regenerative farming practices and how do wine growers really make an impact with a changing climate.

“She talked about a lot about hydrology and how on the hillsides there’s such great opportunities for larger micro and then macro climate cooling. So this got our gears turning about thinking about hydrology, when we think about vineyard redevelopment,” Marinelli said.

The estate winery is moving toward regenerative organic practices (and potential ROC certification).

“We have since transitioned 60-65% of our vineyard over to perennial cover crop. It’s not all grasses,” she said. “We have different mixes depending on the goals all over the estate. But here…the plan is to have this area fallow for hopefully a few years to have some time to understand the property.”

A Unique Site | A River Runs By It

Like many others in Napa Valley’s central corridor, the site has a really high water table along the river.

“That is a blessing in the drought conditions that we have,” she said, “but it also can be a challenge. So we really have to think about managing that….it’s a biodiversity hotspot, and a riparian zone…This was a floodplain, and so we really want to honor that when we think about how we’re going to approach redevelopment on this parcel.”

Enter Oregon born, agroecologist Mimi Casteel, a well known champion of vineyards and biodiversity, who consulted for the winery and challenged them to consider options.

Mimi Casteel speaking at Napa Rise in 2023 See the post with photos, etc.) on substack free

“We had done soil pits and talked about the high water table…It was August, and we were hitting water at 456, feet, and having standing water. So there was a lot of water here, especially as you get to the back of the property [by the river],” Marinelli said.

“There’s obviously some active hydrology happening here, and when Mimi came to the property with the team..and we love Mimi because she really does not hold back at all…[and her comments were] ‘How are you going to develop this?’”

Experimenting with a New Agroecological Approach | Can Plants Mitigate the Hydrological Challenges?

“We’re doing so much to promote agroecology,” said Marinelli, “… And she was kind of challenging us, pushing us. ‘How are you going to plant vineyards all the way up to the riparian zone? Does a vineyard really need to be there?’”

“From this challenge came a lot of curiosity, and from that friction came this trial. So that is how we connected with Dave Kaplow,” she said.

The vineyard could lie fallow for some period of time which gave the team time to do research.

“We’v go some sediment, but then we’ve got some clay and sandy soils and higher clay as we get towards the river,” she said.

French drains and drain tiles were options. But the Opus team pivoted to a new approach.

“Potentially grasses could help fluctuate some of the water table…or help absorb so that vines could coexist without having to use some super invasive vineyard development techniques,” she said. “From that, this grass trial was born.”

Embarking on an Innovative Native Grasses Trial

Missing photo See the photos, etc. as God intended on free on substack.

With Kaplow’s knowledge of native grasses from years of working in conservation and on golf courses, the team set about creating a field trial with a variety of Kaplow’s recommended grasses.

Vengco brought her research skills to the project.

First, the site was treated with biochar and compost (at a rate of 10 tons an acre), spread throughout the fallowed field, then disked in, smoothed out, and ring rolled. The team then marked out a grid with the different strips for the trial.

Kaplow recommended five grasses and two combinations to try.

Planting the Seeds | Not As Simple As It Sounds

“The biggest challenge in seeding was the different sizes of the seeds. The Diego bentgrass, for example, has seeds that are really, really fine, almost like a dust or powder,” said David McGraw, production manager at Silverado Farming. “So they just slipped right through the seeder. We had to mix them with rice hulls and organic granular fertilizer to bulk up the volume, and then we were able to seed that at a better rate.

“Calibration probably took the most time and was the most critical part,” he said. “A lot of these native seeds are small productions, so they’re quite expensive. So we really wanted to make sure we didn’t overseed and run out because purchasing more was not an option. So we would seed, calibrate the seeder for each seed, seed all of it, the different strips all the way down. Once that was finished, we’d switch to the next seed, recalibrate, and repeat the process seven times.”

By the time it all was seeded, they lucked out with some nice rain that came in and germinated everything. “And from there, we just let Mother Nature take over,” said McGraw.

Preliminary Establishment Results

Researcher Vengco’s reported on how quickly the native seeds responded in the first year.

The first year results are published here. See the post as God intended (with photos, etc.) free on substack.

An Ecological Approach to Grasses

As background, Kaplow said, “The work I did from the beginning had to do with native grasses, so I was learning all about native grasses and how to manage native prairies, and that’s my orientation coming into looking at a vineyard ground cover.

“I’m looking at from the perspective as an ecologist, and how are the maintenance techniques or the seed selections affecting what the ground cover does, and how does it behave? So I have learned from all these years.”

“My preferred ground cover is working with perennial grasses, particularly natives, and from there I can enhance onto using wildflowers and perennials and all the other things. But I always start with grasses first.”

Why Grasses?

Kaplow recommends native perennial grasses over annuals.

“They have certain major advantages over the annuals that you're using. When you look at the grasses, you're going to see foliage even in the height of the growing season. They may only get six inches tall if you didn't mow them. They don't get tall. They're little bunch grasses, but underground, they're putting roots that are going down five or six feet, and they're putting a lot of carbon into the ground.

“Around the world, it's well known that the soils with the highest amount of soil carbon are all grassland soils. They're all prairie soils. So, in a sense, what I'm talking about doing here is putting in strips of linear prairie into your vineyards.”

Carbon Sequestration and Microbiome Advantages of Native Perennial Grasses

“If you want to put the carbon in the ground, you have to let the roots do it,” Kaplow said.

Kaplow said the native grasses inject a lot of carbon into the soil and create a stable environment for the beneficial bacteria and fungi to grow. “Versus, if you have annuals, their roots only go down about a foot, and they’re going to die at the end of the season,” he added. “So you’re kind of starting from zero again for the microbial community, or at least their habitat is pretty much starting from zero. Whereas with perennials, you have a stable environment, and you can get the microbes to grow much better.

“Perennial grasses are very good for mycorrhizal association, bacterial association. So if you’re trying to get soil microchlora, perennial grasses are a great way to go.”

Native Grass Establishment: "Like Prepping a Canvas”

Kaplow said he loves wildflowers but recommends waiting until the native grasses are established before planting them.

“The first step you're trying to do in a perennial cover,” he said, “is get a stable background. It's almost like prepping a canvas. You're trying to get a stable surface that's going to be weed resistant, and as the perennial grasses grow, their roots are going to fill the soil, and they're going to basically make a wall of roots. And when weeds try to germinate in that; their roots are going to hit the native grass roots, and they're going to stop.”

He is not an advocate for planting legumes as cover crop for nitrogen. “If you don’t need the nitrogen, don’t put the legumes in, because they’re going to harbor a lot of pests. Too much nitrogen in the soil creates a weed problem. If you don’t need the nitrogen, don’t do it. If you do need the nitrogen, absolutely, that’s not a question. But if you don’t need it, don’t do it,” he said.

Kaplow cautioned against using fescues and and bluegrasses. “I didn't use any fescue or bluegrass in this project, and the reason is that I've worked with them in restoration projects a lot, and fescue and bluegrass are northern grasses. They're moist site grasses. If you are in Washington State, it's a no-brainer. If you're in British Columbia, absolutely.

“There are native fescues and bluegrasses here, but they're on the north side of a hill. They're in the shade of trees. They're in the fog belt next to the ocean.

“You don't see them wild out here. You can seed it, and you will get scattered plants. But you're not going to get reliable results. You're not going to get a full cover. It certainly won't live. So that's the only reason I didn't try those.”

See the post as God intended (with photos, etc.) on free substack post.

Diego bentgrass photo 

Seeding Is A Bit of An Art Form

McGraw cautioned, “With native grass seeding you really have to be careful. The seeding rates are so low. You say, ‘Oh, I bought seed for five acres,’ and you use it up after one, because ‘it just doesn't look right.’ You seed it, and you don't you don't really see anything, and you go, ‘I’ve got to put more. Well, by the time you did, you've overseeded. So you really have to learn to stretch it out.

“Sometimes what people do is they will mix it with rice hulls, or they'll mix it in with something else to spread it out, so that it looks better…It's as light as humanly possible, and even then, you’re probably putting it on too heavy. So that's a major case of self-control.”

The rest of the morning was devoted to looking at each grass plot.

Kaplow said that even after just one year, some of the grasses, which were only about an inch high, would have roots extending three feet deep.

“They’re reaching for water. They’re trying to make it through the summer. Now eventually they’re going to be six, eight feet deep. They’re going to hit the water table at some point. Maybe they have, but I don’t know. They’re still young.

“Eventually they’re going to not only grow down but sideways, and the root systems can start banging into each other. So it’s going to become a wall of roots…each year it gets a little more like that.

California oatgrass (Danthonia californica) is old-growth grass in California is a long-lived native perennial bunchgrass that can live for up to 200 years and helps sustain ancient meadow ecosystems.

“Danthonia has a very, very long term strategy,” said Kaplow. “This grass, when it’s going, will live 120 years. It would be an old growth kind of grass. This is the redwoods of the grasses, but it’s hard to start it.

“I'm not quite giving up on it for here because that is one that will stay green and will dry this field out if that's what you need,” Kaplow said. “It's long lived and once it's in, it's in forever. It's just a great plant. I have high future hopes for it. I've got this growing in my front yard in Santa Rosa. I don't water it and it's still green.”

This is part one of a two part article. We will post a link to Part 2 here soon.

The final event in the NVGG organic series on July 29 featured a keynote conversation featuring two respected organic producers-Steve Matthiasson of Matthiasson Wines and Jason Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard.

That will be the subject of a future post here.




Monday, August 17, 2026

Namaste. Now Hold My Wine Glass. Asian Food and Wine Pairing Experts Offer Inspiration in Wine Market Council Webinar Co-Hosted with Asian Wine Association of America

Wineries have offered yoga classes to attract younger wine drinkers. But they might try something better – offering Indian food and wine pairings. Wine with Indian food is a growing field.

SEE THE PHOTOS AND CHARTS HERE https://organicwineuncorked.substack.com/p/namaste-now-hold-my-wine-glass-asian

A recent Wine Market Council event cosponsored with the Asian American Association of America featured Indian wine pairing experts. Wine marketers and wine lovers have new horizons to explore.

I recently had to select the wines for a friend’s wedding where the theme was Indian (Neither the bride nor the groom was Indian but they like India). The caterer was Rooh, a very high end Indian restaurant in the Bay Area, and I had recently returned from a wine press trip to Cava country in Spain (in Penedes, the Cava Meeting was the event), so I ended up getting cases and cases of an organically grown rosé from Vilarnau, available at Total Wine. A sparkling wine, it delivered bubbles and a satisfying bit of fruitiness, all for $20 a bottle–far less than Champagne–and it was quite festive and pretty as well.

But the whole exercise led me to consider more deeply just what does go with Indian food. Luckily there was this Wine Market Council webinar to help me for future occasions.

For a wine industry that’s floundering, the Asian community offers plenty of new wine lovers to cultivate, industry experts said at a recent Wine Market Council co-sponsored event with the newly formed Asian Wine Association of America.

Earlier this year, wine industry trend watcher Danny Brager tracked dining shifts, showing how eateries in the US have swiftly changed as demographics and changing food tastes have impacted what we eat. There are FAR fewer fine dining–white tablecloth places are down around 50 percent–and a growing number of eateries featuring global flavors.

While Apple TV Slow Horses’ fans delight in its slovenly hero’s relatable love of curry takeout in London, new, elite restaurants have extended the range of Indian foods on offer in the U.S.

Think Rooh in SF, near South Park, in the heart of San Francisco’s AI and tech entrepreneur heartland. There is, of course, also a Rooh in Palo Alto, the other epicenter.

Indian food’s growth in the US has been driven by two forces moving together: a fast-growing, increasingly affluent Indian-American population, and rising mainstream American demand for the cuisine.

A few things stand out:

Restaurant count roughly doubled since 2018 — Indian restaurant openings are up 113% since 2018, with 9,438 Indian restaurants in the US as of April 2026, concentrated in California (2,035), Texas (1,318), and New York (841).

The population base grew even faster — the Indian population in the US has increased by roughly 3.1 million, growing about 174% since 2000, and that group now has a median household income above $151,000, compared with about $105,000 for Asian American households overall.

Revenue growth has been more modest — industry-wide, revenue is climbing at a CAGR of about 2.1%, reaching roughly $4.9 billion, with 1.4% growth in 2024 alone, which is slower than the restaurant-count growth, suggesting a lot of smaller/independent openings rather than one big chain expansion — about 77% of Indian restaurants in the US are single-owner operations.

The high end is where the real momentum is right now — upscale Indian dining has seen a recent boom, and the shift is generational: second- and third-generation Indian-Americans eat Indian food out far more than they cook it at home, unlike their parents’ generation.

How This Relates to Wine

All too often, Indian eateries are not pushing wine. At the high end, it’s fruity cocktails. Across the spectrum, it’s beer. But all that might be changing as more and more Indians grow to love wine.

Background | “The Most Important Demographic in America”

Speaking at a WMC webinar in 2025, market researcher Mike Lakusta of Ethnifacts said it’s important to realize what this Indian demographic represents. He wants to, “help everybody understand why this is the most important demographic in America.”

According to Wine Market Council data, Indian Americans make up about 6.3% of the population, but only about 5% of wine consumption in America. But he said, “it’s the fastest growing racial population, the fastest growing buying power growth, the highest income and a higher skew toward wine drinking generations within the population.”

“If you look at projections between now and 2060, what a lot of people don't realize is that the non Hispanic white population is going to decline by 27% as a contribution to growth, the largest will be Hispanic but the Asian American population will contribute 23% to that growth,” he said. Not only that, but the Asian American population tends to be more affluent, he said.

“If you look at the buying power of Asian Americans in California, it’s $469 billion…that is almost as big as the $530 billion of Hispanics in the state of California,” he added. While China is the biggest Asian American population in California, Indian ethnicity is number one in 24 states, he said.

“So if you’re not marketing to these groups, particularly Asian Americans and Hispanics, you’re not reaching the new drinkers that are hitting America right now,” he said.

Enter the 2026 Experts

In the most recent WMC webinar “Mastering the Art of Pairing Wine with Indian Cuisine,” Shekar Sathyanarayana, founder of Nalla, and Neeta Mittal, founder at LXV Wine, explained how things are dramatically evolving in our understanding of Indian food and wine pairings.

Sathyanarayana began with the basics–there’s not just one kind of Indian food.

Spice does not mean heat, he said, emphasizing the aromatics and spice sophistication that Indian food embodies.

Getting a sweet wine to mask the spices is a huge mistake, he said.

“People say, ‘Oh gosh, it's got all this heat, or it's spicy, and you know what? Let's just get a sweet wine.’ You're really drowning the cuisine when you do that. It's not to say that a sweet wine does not work, but it's not really the intention or purpose.”

He interviewed Indian restaurant owners to find out which four different dishes were most popular during COVID because Indian restaurants did extremely well then.

The reason?

“Indian cuisine is one of those things that travels very well, not so much like a burger or a steak, where the moment it comes out of the kitchen, you’ve got to eat it immediately. But with Indian cuisine, you're rewarded with patience, and these were the most common items that people would order,” he said.

Suggested Wine Pairings from Pam (All Are Certified Organically Farmed)

• Sparkling | Vilarnau Brut Cava or Rosé ($19, available at Total Wine)

• Sauvignon Blanc | Frog’s Leap (also available at Total Wine ($29), BevMo and more)

• Grenache | Tablas Creek Alouette $105 for 3L Box (= 4 btls.) (box available from the winery only); 750 ML bottles also available

• Cabernet Sauvignon | Matthiasson ($85 from the winery and available from select retailers; 99 points on Decanter)

A Wheel in Process | Neeta Mittal

For Neeta Mittal, Indian food is like a playground for food and wine pairing. A grower and a vintner in both Paso Robles and St. Emilion, she has tips for getting started, developed over years.

Her tips:

SEE GRAPHIC FOR TIPS

She’s also been working hard on a pairing wheel and one can download the app version on her website.

Mittal also offers an exotic variety of spice kits.

She is also working to educate Indian restaurant owners on how to incorporate wine into their businesses.

Where to Find Organically Grown Wine from Indian Winemakers in California

Indian owned wineries farming organic grapes with wine for sale:

• Nicholson Ranch in Sonoma from Mumbai-born Deepak Gulrajani

• Parr Wines in Cambria from famed former sommelier Raj Parr (originally from Calcutta), now turned farmer and winemaker

Listening to this webinar and its tantalizing description of Indian food made me lust for the food itself. As soon as the webinar ended, it was off to my favorite Indian restaurant–Ajanta in Berkeley–to satisfy the cravings this webinar awakened. It is one of Alice Waters’ favorite restaurant picks, too. I was told today that the produce all comes from the farmers market.

Here’s to more organically grown wines to pair with delicious Indian food.

To view the full webinar, become a member of the Wine Market Council. 

Wednesday, August 12, 2026

Opus One at a Natural Wine Festival? Mais Oui. Classic Napa Winery Starts to Use Its Native Yeasts

 Native yeast expert Sydney Rogers explains it all at Unfiltered Wine Festival panel in Berkeley.

Native Yeasts | Not So Pure After All?

What about native yeasts–another hallmark of the natural wine movement but one that winemakers who don’t call themselves natural frequently use?

Things are getting ever more complex on that front, as Opus One’s Sydney Rogers reported at the Unfiltered Wine Festival held in Berkeley July 26.

She researched natural fermentation during her education at U.C. Davis and was asked to speak about her findings on a panel about natural versus conventional wine.

SEE SUBSTACK FOR PHOTO OF Sydney Rogers

She isolated yeasts on Pinot Noir grapes from four different California AVAs across multiple vintages, and then made wine with them.

“We were trying to see if they could compare to commercial strains,” she said. “But the interesting part that I found from the project is that there are genetic signatures of vineyards, so yeasts can have terroir. They can be found in one vineyard across multiple years.”

Her study turned up somewhat perplexing results about what can be considered native yeast.

“I think that the term native yeast is hard because what do you consider native yeast? Do you consider it just something that’s not bought from a store, or do you consider it something that is truly genetically native to the place?”

Surprise: Bicontinental Yeast?

“We found that there’s actually a yeast that has a genetic admixture of lineages from California oak trees combined with European wine strains,” she said.

“So they sexually reproduced, and they created a new hybridized yeast strain that has characteristics of both. And I think that that’s a really interesting.

“They actually outcompeted even the strongest of fermenters like EC-1118 [a popular active dried wine yeast strain (Saccharomyces cerevisiae var. bayanus) originally isolated in Champagne] in these spontaneous ferments.

“That just shows that sometimes you have to take something of the traditional ways from the European lineage of yeast, and something from the new way or the new place that you’re trying to make wine from, and this combination of both things can end up with something really strong.”

SEE PHOTO OF CROWD ON SUBSTACK

There was a lot of enthusiasm in the crowd when it was time to sample the 2018 Opus One, a $400+ classic from Napa Valley.

To illustrate yet again the promiscuity of yeasts, Davis said, “Jared and I had a conversation last week, and there was a brewery near [a winery], and they were curious to know what their yeast in the wine was. Turned out to be Trumer Pils yeast, so a lot of their wines were being fed with yeast.”

Said Rogers, ‘We actually looked at the populations of many of these different yeasts, and there were many that were commercial…but some of these strains that have genes from oak yeast that are native to California seem to be better suited for the environment here, because they can outcompete the other ones. Now it may not happen in every winery. I don’t know. I guess the Trumer Pils yeast could be just really going into beast mode.”

But knowing what yeast ends up in your wine is not cheap to find out.

“It’s really costly to analyze what yeast you have in your wine, right?” she said.

Rogers, who brought the all important 2018 Opus One wine the audience was excited to try, said that Opus One transitioned to native yeast.

“We used to use commercial, and winemaker [emeritus] Michael Silacci wanted to start doing native, but he felt it can be risky, especially for a wine like Opus One [a coveted $400 Napa Valley classic co-owned with a Bordeaux partner].

SEE SUBSTACK FOR PHOTO

Serving up the 2018 Opus One. Rogers is in the background.

“So we isolated some native strains from our vineyards. And from each of our estates, we have a strain, or more than one strain, that comes from those vineyards. They’ve been compared to many databases of commercial yeast, and they are native.

“So my job is to scale them up from petri dishes to 100 liter biofermenters every day, and use those biofermenters for yeast to inoculate tanks. So it’s a native strain, but we inoculate with it,” she said.

While for years, natural winemakers have debated pros and cons of various winemaking approaches, Rogers said it was best to sidestep all the analyzing, if audiences are not interested in natural wine minutiae.

“What does your consumer care about? What does your audience care about? If they really care about natural wine and how you define how you make natural wine, then sure, talk your ear off about it.”

“I think we need to stop making people feel bad for not knowing the rules or not knowing the definitions, and just get people excited about drinking something new–especially the younger generations–because wine is so intimidating and it’s really hard to learn.”

“I think being supportive–like [answering questions] ‘why do you call it natural?’ ‘Oh, but someone else calls it natural, but they don’t do what you do,’ and then just explaining nicely why,” she said.

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2 Million Page Views...and Counting! Organic Wines Uncorked Blog Reaches Major Milestone

It's gratifying to say the least. 

The Mothership of my writing about organically grown wines over the past 14 - yes, 14, count-em - has just passed the huge milestone of 2 million page views.

In total, there are 1,500 posts on that blog.

This little fledgling offshoot, Organic Wines Uncorked on substack, is up to 224 subscribers in six months (with seven of you paying, thank you VERY much) and thousands of page views…

Here is how the blog traffic grew over 14 years.

SEE SUBSTACK FOR THE GRAPH

I think the increase around 2022 is when more producers got certified organic.

And 2026 - did the blog benefit from AI? Maybe, but the top 20 posts are pretty diverse in terms of subject matter–representing a real cross section of interests. Anyway, I think as a slice of online life, it’s interesting to see what made the list.

Curiously I do not recall anyone ever asking me about the tagline – The Delicious Revolution Shall Be Vinified – which is, of course, related to Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse motto, which is also about eating as an agricultural act. Would that more of us felt that way about drinking. And perhaps they will one day.

Photos and Graphs SEE SUBSTACK LINK

I got frustrated with blogspot.com after it would not include photos or charts during this past year, and so those missing photos and graphics ARE available in the Substack version. So I have stopped cross posting some articles on the blog. Everything fresh is here on substack, including the visual elements, so please consider subscribing here.

Top Posts by Page Views

SEE SUBSTACK FOR LINKS TO ALL THE TOP 20

1. California’s Organic Wave: Wine Grape Acreage Increases By 1,774 Acres in Last 12 Months - Napa Increase is 1,000+ | 10.7K

2. The Formerly Unpublished Julia Child Blog Post | 9.58K Post no longer available as it featured a YouTube video that has since been removed. [I did publish a few posts about Child, partly because I have a soft spot in my heart for her as a fellow alum of Smith College]

3. Costco’s Ultimate Wine: The Sinegal Family’s Own (Organically Grown) Cabernets | 9.26K I took this down for awhile because they make so few wines from their estate (which is organically certified) and so many from purchased grapes (not organic). The family lived on the estate with small children.

4. The Battle for The Clean, Green Mantle: Bonterra Fights Back Against “Clean Wine” Claims With “Beyond” Video | 9.19K

5. Jeremy Cukierman MW’s New Book on Wine and Climate Change, What Wine for Tomorrow? Launches | 8.92K

6. The All New Julia Child Movie Coming Your Way in November: Food, Glorious Food | 8.74K The photo shows her promoting wine.

7. NZ Organic Wine Week: Nigel Greening of Felton Road | 8.71K

8. After Buying Cowhorn, Mini Banks and Investors Buy Johan Vineyards - Her Second Biodynamic Vineyard and Winery | 8.65K

9. Finally It’s Adieu to Chlorpyrifos: 1 in 20 Acres of California Vines Will No Longer Be Sprayed with Neurotoxin Related to Nazi’s Nerve Gas | 8.65K

10. Julia Update: Her Pumpkin Pie Recipe - and Her DC House is For Sale [Just $3.5 Million] | 8.64K

11. Hanzell Vineyards Certified Organic | 8.59K

12. New Zealand’s Organic Producers Showcase Variety in Organic Wine Week Trade Tasting - Organic Up 6 Percent Annually | 8.58K

13. Wine and Climate Change: What Next for the Flooded Ahr Valley in Germany? Vineyard Terracing, Reorienting Vineyard Rows and Reforestation Under Consideration | 8.57K

14. Revised: The Dark Side of Sonoma’s Sustainability Movement: No to Organics, Deep Deception, and When Is a Standard a Standard? | 8.46K

15. Salvestrin’s Historic Crane Vineyard Certified Organic | 8.42K

16. Chris Malan on Napa River: “An Ecosystem Like No Other with 34 Native Fish” Faces Challenge from Groundwater Extraction and “Lawlessness in Surface Water Pumping” | 8.28K

17. Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet Going Biodynamic and Seeking B-Corp Certification | 8.28K

18. World Premiere: Song for Cesar, Tribute to Chavez and Movement’s Music, Screens at Mill Valley Film Festival (Oct. 14, 15 and Online) | 8.26K

19. Pierre Guigui on the History of Organic Wine in France: “Conventional Production Costs More for the Community” | 7.95K

20. Amid Post Fire Regeneration, Newton Vineyard, A Napa Classic, Now Certified Organic (113 Acres) | 7.61K

Monday, August 10, 2026

50 Shades of Natural Wine | Natural Versus Conventional at Unfiltered Wine Festival

A panel of winemakers comes to a kumbaya moment, sort of, over natural wine dogmas.

SEE THIS MISSING PHOTO HERE

Jared Brandt, Co-founder of Donkey and Goat, moderator, with panelists Joe Davis (Arcadian), Nicole Walsh (SER Wine), Sydney Rogers (Opus One), Brent Mayeaux (Stagiaire)

Dogmatism is out, tolerance is in. After years of ongoing, fierce debates over what a natural wine is, a more mature middle ground is emerging over what it is and isn’t a natural wine. If anyone is still listening…

My old friend Monty Waldin used to say about natural winemakers, “Don’t tell me what you don’t do. Tell me what you do do.”

A panel of five wine experts, including four natural winemakers spanning from 20 something to seasoned veterans, examined the definitions, the divides, the controversies and the intersections–as well as perhaps the irrelevance of drawing lines.

Back in 2009, host and moderator Jared Brandt, co-founder of Donkey and Goat (then married to co-founder Tracey Brandt), published a manifesto.

Issued in the spirit of transparency, it proclaimed the winery’s do’s and don’ts in buying grapes and in winemaking, but also capped it off with a warning.

“When it comes to dogma, the road to hell is paved with good intentions.”

Seventeen years later, Jared Brandt was in the room with fellow winemakers attempting to find common ground defining natural wine or just hearing what everyone else had to say, since the days of dogmatic disagreements appear to be wearing thin among both makers and their fans and the scales seem to be tipping toward kumbaya.

The illustrious panel began with a statement of purpose that reflects the thoughtful distance the community has come over those 17 years.

“What this panel is really collected to talk about is breaking down and unpacking some of these divisions that create little tribes when they're actually a really powerful community that's striving after the same thing,” a speaker began.

A lot of the discussion was about minimal intervention. For example:

• Did oak barrels count as “doing nothing”?

• What about temperature controlled tanks?

• And the eternal debate: are sulfites ok or not? Even a little bit?

SEE MISSING PHOTOS HERE

Brandt said he was agnostic about much of natural wines’ tenets, but just happened to learn from a natural winemaker in France.

“I moved to France to learn winemaking. I did not come into winemaking to learn how to make natural wine. I came to learn from Eric Texier because I love his wine,” he said.

Nicole Walsh, the long time winemaker at Bonny Doon (for 20+ years), as well as producer of her own artisanal SER Wine, has made both “conventional” and natural wines, early on converting a biodynamic vineyard in New Zealand.

Nicole Walsh

“This whole panel is really interesting for me,” she said, “because all along in my career, I've had a lot of passion projects. My interest is more on the viticulture side–vineyard managing, converting wine or vineyards to biodynamic farming, or organic farming. Really, I feel it starts there.

“And so, obviously, my belief and my passion is natural wines that reflect that farming. It's really, really important to me….wines that have a life force in them.”

They should also be wines of stability, she added.

Arcadian's Joe Davis, made the distinction that natural wine “is about harvesting at higher acid, lower pHs. There's less bacterial activity. Wines tend to be clear and bright.”

Winemaker Brent Mayeaux of Stagiaire, championing the purist line, opted for a simple definition.

“My idea of natural wine, which over there in France seems like pretty well understood and agreed upon,” he said, “…I don’t understand the confusion in the United States so much, but natural wine is considered organic grapes that you crush and ferment, and you bottle without fining, filtering, or adding anything to the wine.”

I might point out that there’s no mention in his definition of growing the grapes yourself–and he like, most of the producers at Unfiltered, does not grow all of his grapes, in contrast to leading French natural wine producers.

Beyond the Moralizing

“I almost wish it wasn’t called natural wine because we tend to moralize it–to not make natural wine isn’t immoral,” Mayeaux said.

“How you make your wine is very inconsequential in the grand scheme of the world, but to me, natural wine is organic grapes that you don’t do anything to.”

Brandt pointed out that overall, winemakers are prone more and more to making acid adjustments [due to climate change]. He said chaptalization and adding sulfites were once typical in Germany and France.

“I struggle with the definition [of natural wine],” he said. “I think ‘natural’ is a very bogus word, but I struggle with where you do draw the line, because it goes back [the fact that] barrels do import impart flavors. Concrete and terracotta have a big influence in the wine. Stainless has an influence in the wine.”

How many sulfites is still another much debated topic.

Said Davis, “I think if you're going to try to make wine as naturally as possible, then you've got to have a really good lab. You've got to be able to look under the microscope and see what's there.

The wine he poured at the panel clocked in at 35 ppm sulfites he told attendees.

“To not use some amount of sulfur seems to me to be insanity,” he added.

Walsh looks at the bigger picture. At Bonny Doon (now part of WarRoom Cellars), she led the team that formerly made as much as 450,000 cases of wine a year and later launched her own personal, artisanal brand Ser Wines. Maker Wine produces her own wines in cans.

“You're striving for this persistence, this life force in the wine,” said Walsh.

Wine can’t be perfect all the time, she said, and then what.

“In my opinion, some of the flaws from not intervening in some way, even being as thoughtful as we can, and being as prepared as we can come harvest…Making those decisions when you were talking about acid is a priority, but maybe you can’t make those picking decisions perfectly.

“I feel like you do have to intervene, and because, for me, it's trying to make this reflection of the vineyard in the resulting wine, without distracting flaws.”

Holding up the purist end of the spectrum, Mayeaux disagreed. “That's the point. It's not supposed to be easy,” he said.

Countered Walsh, “I would argue that you shouldn't win a prize for doing nothing.”

Mayeux makes about 2,000 cases and said at the panel that he lives very frugally, including getting food stamps. Walsh makes a lot more wine.

For the section on Native Yeasts | Not So Pure After All?

GO HERE

Please visit this link to read about Opus One’s transition to using native yeasts. (This panel article was getting too long for Substack’s email length limits so I made the Opus yeast discussion a separate article.)

Broken Berries | A Big Risk

Mayeaux said he was he was “trying to prioritize the healthy yeast and keep the less desirable yeast and bacteria at bay.

Brent Mayeux

“Any broken berry in the vineyard is a breeding ground for the yeast and bacteria that you don't want fermenting. Every single broken berry that comes in from the vineyard into the cellar is this petri dish–this inoculation of the things that you don't want dominating or fermentation. So we are doing everything we can to keep those out of the cellar or in the vineyard.” That means “sorting really well," he said.

Mayeux paid homage to Opus One for getting him into wine.

“Honestly, I wouldn't be here if it wasn't for Opus One. It was a couple bottles of Opus One that sent me down the wine path. And I still, honestly, drink probably more classic-leaning wine because a lot of natural wines are kind of disgusting.”

[Of course, Opus One costs $400 a bottle and does not claim to be a natural wine, but it has switched to using native yeast].]

Transparency Is a Common Denominator–Or Is It?

Some label ingredients. Most don’t.

Walsh said Bonny Doon was “one of the first wineries to do ingredient labeling [in 2008], and at that time it was because we really felt we wanted to show ‘here's a wine that's out in the marketplace, and we're really minimalist with our additions.’

“We were hoping it would cause other wineries to show what they actually put in their wines, or to bring awareness to a consumer of what goes into wine.”

While transparency was a lauded goal, audience member and wine expert Clark Smith said it’s [sadly] unrealistic to expect truth from mainstream [or natural winemakers.

[Clark Smith is the inventor of reverse osmosis and micro-oxygenation–interventions that are anathema to the natural wine community.]

“I spent my whole life for over 50 years in the industry developing new tools,” said Smith, “and I’ve been experimenting with honesty, and I have to tell you that the reason you don’t have transparency in winemaking–look in the mirror.

“Because the natural wine movement has been firing live ammo over the heads of winemakers for a long time, and they’re going to lie.”

In the end, one thing matters, he said.

“What you should be asking for is great wine, whether it's agricultural, conventional, natural, 00. It's really about finding delicious wines to drink.”

A Post Panel Artistic Moment } The Watercolorist

SEE PHOTOS HERE

A creative audience member, Julie Weber, a watercolorist of many years, was having a good time painting panelists and taking notes of this and other sessions. Here is her delightfully artistic record of the panel.




Watercolorist Julia Weber (jukelia_sf on instagram) painted during a number of sessions, exciting many participants and attracting many admirers.


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Tuesday, August 4, 2026

Houston Wilson: "You're Trying to Manage An Ecosystem" | Napa Valley Grapegrowers' Organic Field Days: Beneficial Insects & Pest Management Hosted at Quintessa | Part 2 (of 2)

UCANR entomologist Houston Wilson, Ph.D. on state of the art thinking about integrated pest management, which starts in part, from biodiversity research he conducted with growers in Napa and Sonoma

Now based in the Central Valley, UCANR entomologist Houston Wilson, Ph.D. started his career counting leafhoppers at Quintessa

This is part 2 of an organic winegrowing field day held July 15 at Quintessa sponsored by the Napa Valley Grapegrowers as part of their July organic education series.

See Part 1 of this field day here.

Entomologists Are Widening Their Lenses

While entomologists look at the world of insects, these days they don’t look at bugs alone-they look at ecosystems. And it’s helping viticulturists learn how to understand pests and manage wine grape vines more effectively.

“The landscape context really tends to mediate how effective on-farm practices can be,” speaker Houston Wilson said.

That was the message the UCANR scientist highlighted for those attending the Napa Valley Grapegrowers’ Organic Field Day held at Quintessa. And he should know, because he was part of one of the landmark viticulture agroecology studies that set out to study cover crops but wound up discovering a bigger picture truth about landscapes and biodiversity.

That study, ultimately published in 2017, started first at Quintessa, Wilson recalled. As a student at U.C. Berkeley, he was lucky enough to study under some of the most esteemed agricultural entomologists in biocontrol, including those pictured below.

SEE PHOTOS - CLICK HERE (FREE)

In 2008, Wilson (left) with the powerhouse of U.C. Berkeley’s ag entomologists–Kent Daane, Robert Van Steenwyk, Miguel Altieri and Nicholas Mills. Note: I first met Houston around 2015 when he was a T.A. in Miguel Altieri’s agroecology class at U.C. Berkeley, (which I audited). .

Wilson was deeply involved in one of the first big studies in Napa and Sonoma that showed how leafhopper populations were and were not affected by various farming practices. While initially designed to study the impact of carefully selected cover crop mixes grown in vineyard middles, the 2017 landmark study entitled “Landscape diversity and crop vigor outweigh influence of local diversification on biological control of a vineyard pest” found that the biodiversity around sites was a more important factor in leafhopper populations than a set of selected cover crops and even pointed to one native plant as an important host for beneficials.

A Bit of Backgound

U. C. Berkeley has played a pivotal role in pioneering biocontrol, starting with Robert van den Bosch, whose seminal book Biological Control was first published in 1973, just 11 years after Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring, and followed up by his more influential and popular book The Pesticide Conspiracy (1978). It was the dawn of integrated pest management or IPM, as farmers were struggling to find a way to stop or reduce the use of toxic agrochemicals after their negative impacts became more widely known.

Miguel Altieri, Founder of the Field of Agroecology

Altieri holds the mantle as the founder of agroecology, writing the first text on it, Agroecology: The Science of Sustainable Agriculture in 1987.

He went on to become a celebrated expert working with the Pope, King Charles and United Nations, as well as countless other groups.

He has widely championed mixed agriculture for small farmers in Latin America.

Summing up the field of agroecology, Altieri has written, “Each ecological disease is viewed as an independent problem rather than what it really is–a symptom of a poorly designed and poorly functioning system.”

Today the term agroecology has become more and more fashionable in wine. The Coturri family at Winery Sixteen 600 used the term on a wine label recently. Retiring Opus One winemaker [now emeritus] Michael Silacci now calls himself an “agro-enologist,” on his LinkedIn page.

Return to Quintessa

Wilson is now a UC Cooperative Extension specialist in the Department of Entomology at UC Riverside where his title is Associate Cooperative Extension Specialist, Orchard/Vineyard Entomology. He is currently stationed at Kearney Agricultural Research and Extension Center in Parlier in southern San Joaquin County.

But his career in entomology began in Napa when he told Altieri that he was interested in agroecology. Chilean born Altieri, connected to the Chilean founders of Quintessa, Agustin Huneeus Sr. (former CEO of Concha y Toro) and Valeria Huneeus, was working a bit in viticulture. Altieri sent Wilson off to count leafhoppers at the Rutherford estate.

“One of the first projects I ever worked on in commercial agriculture–not at the U.C. Berkeley university farm–was here at Quintessa,” he said. That was in 2007.

“I was some 20 year old kid down there counting these leafhoppers, and what we did at that time eventually evolved into my PhD dissertation. It was to look at diversifying vineyards to enhance biological control of leafhoppers, and Quintessa [farming biodynamically] was experimenting with that at the time.”

The 280 acre Quintessa site has 140 acres of vines, lots of native oaks and varied soils and sites.

From Micro to Macro View

After the team worked at Quintessa for a summer, the study grew, involving a bigger group of growers who were putting in hedgerows and insectaries and playing around with summer flowering cover crops. “Caleb Mosley [who was in attendance at the field day] was part of that,” he said. Today Mosley is currently the executive director of the Napa Valley Grapegrowers.

One of the many questions the growers had was how to attract beneficials with cover crops.

“Could we plant in the fall flowering plants in the row middles that over the spring and summer would bloom and provide some sort of habitat for beneficial insects that would then go on to control leafhoppers?” he said.

Said Wilson, “How you best manage these farms in an ecological way is really site specific–there’s principles of agroecology and how to approach your farming…

If you want to expand that ‘organism idea’, it’s not just all the biophysical things and how they’re interacting on your farm. It’s how they’re interacting across the entire landscape, this whole valley, and how they’re functioning over time,” he said.

The Leafhopper Pest’s Biggest Predator: Tiny Parasitoids

Vineyard managers have to manage leafhopper populations, which can decimate a crop of wine grapes.

One ally in their arsenal is tiny wasps like Anagrus species (fairyflies) that inject their eggs directly into leafhopper eggs. To quote from the U.C. IPM website, “The developing wasp larva consumes the contents, turning the translucent leafhopper egg brown or red before emerging.”

How can vineyard managers encourage these tiny wasps in their vines?

“When we first started this project, the best known overwintering habitat for the parasitoids [that feed on leafhoppers] was blackberries,” Houston said.

But one species alone was not the totality of the site.

“You’re not just managing leafhoppers," he said. ‘You’re managing 10 different things. How do you develop practices that work well for all of these competing demands?”

The group ultimately developed a group of cover crops with the growers–they were the lead experimenters at that point, Houston said. The questions were not just what species to select, but, “how to sow them? When to sow them? How to keep them from spreading and going to seed under the under the vine rows?” he said.

The group came up with a cover crop program focused on purple tansy, bishop’s flower, wild carrot and more.

“Those three flowers were ones you could put in the fall, and they would bloom in succession and as each one peaked at its bloom, you’d go in and mow it, and then the next species would come up, and it would keep it from spreading.

“We saw a lot of beneficials come to those plants, and so we set up this large replicated experiment to compare plots with and without this flowering summer flowering cover crop program over a two-year period, and we had vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, and all these different kinds of locations.”

The Surprising Results | Not What They Originally Thought They Would Be

What we saw was that a lot of beneficials showed up on those flowers, but it didn’t really translate into increased beneficials in the canopy itself.

“There were major differences in biocontrol of leafhoppers between the different sites, not necessarily the plots at those sites.

“What it turned out to be is that certain vineyards had higher early season populations of these parasitoids, and that led to higher parasitism early in the season, and that led to lower leafhopper populations at the end of the year. And it just had to do with where they were located. If you think about the need for overwintering sites of this parasitoid, it starts to make sense.

“What defined these better sites is that they had more natural habitat around them (and we hadn’t done anything about the composition of the habitat).”

“The best sites just had more natural and semi-natural habitat within half a kilometer of the site. And the more of that you had, the more parasitoids you had, and the lower leafhopper populations you had,” he said.

Eye Opening Moment: Coyote Brush

“What we did at that point was to go out and basically sample every plant we could. There’s 70 or 75 different species or genera that we were able to collect around the North Coast over a two-year period.

“We found a number of different plants that harbored these parasitoids, but far and above, coyote bush was the number one plant.

“You have some of it planted down there [at Quintessa], and that for us was a very eye-opening moment. There’s coyote bush all over the place here, and it’s a native plant in California.

“When I brought this up with growers, some folks were like, ‘Man, I just cleared all that off my hillside or off the road cut’ or whatever. But it was an alternative plant that doesn’t harbor sharpshooters, it doesn’t harbor Pierce’s disease, but it is an effective overwintering habitat for this parasitoid. And so that was cool–the story kind of goes like this [in one direction], and then suddenly we find this landscape thing, and there’s this other overwintering habitat, and that was a good ending.”

The Trail Doesn’t End There

“There’s all sorts of questions that still remain about how much of this coyote bush do you put in your vineyard relative to the number of acres you have, and how far do they go from it, and all sorts of stuff like that. But this is kind of how science goes.”

Then the project ended.

"I got my PhD, and that year red blotch showed up, and we also had Virginia creeper leafhopper show up in Mendocino and Lake County, and it was like, stop all that, focus on this, and off we go.”

“But at the end of, I think one of our final presentations with the group which was about 30 different operations…was that what we discovered was pretty cool.

“More questions arose: what do those plants do for vine mealybug or sharpshooters? We didn’t study any of that. It’s so difficult in some of these systems where you’re doing all these multi-layered practices to scientifically isolate certain variables and try to tease apart these things,” he said.

The New Bottom Line: Collaborative, Region Wide Projects Matter Most

Wilson said scientists today are more excited about broader projects that involve larger landscape studies.

“As an ag entomologist, area-wide IPM is how you do IPM now,” he said.

“For us it’s been really important to try to build more collaborative projects where we have someone looking at how do birds and owls respond to this? How do weeds respond to this practice? How do the insects respond? And that’s more the type of work that I’ve been able to develop in the past 10 years.”

He cited Matthew Johnson’s project at Cal Poly Humboldt (with numerous western bluebird boxes on sites in Napa) and Danny Karp at U.C. Davis who are studying song birds and their response to proximity to natural habitat and nest boxes. Both are featured in the video below.

SEE VIDEO - CLICK HERE (FREE)

Of special interest to Wilson, those scientists are studying what the birds eat–specific insects.

“We’ve been able to take fecal samples and run it through molecular methods that can tell us what insects we’re finding, DNA from there,” he said.

“We’ve found that the birds eat vine mealybugs, they eat leafhoppers, like they also eat lacewings.

You’re trying to manage an ecosystem that is not evolved to make sure you can produce wine. The birds are just trying to get food. They eat the good bugs, eat the bad bugs, and so it’s difficult. But it’s important to think of it in this way,” Wilson said.

“There’s more to come, and results will be out soon,” he said.

Wilson said insects of interest in his field boil down to two categories.

“With biological control, you have two types of insects.

“You have these generalist predators like spiders and lacewings and ladybugs, and then you have parasitoids. Well, the generalists-they’re general. They eat a bunch of different stuff. Some of it you want them to eat. Some of it you don’t. Sometimes they eat each other–like a spider and a lacewing. Parasitoids can have really hyper specific host ranges.

“Anagrus is pretty specific… it’s got the leafhoppers, but then it also has this alternative host.

“There’s other parasitoids that are known to attack 60 different types of insects. So, when you think about these insectary plantings, like which beneficial insects are showing up, and which ones do I need to control the pest I’m trying to control, and do they show up at the right time of year that aligns with the phenology of this insect or with the timing when my crop is vulnerable to damage from that insect, and how far do they move from these plants? There are a ton of unknown questions.

“Those are all very approachable questions, but each one is a huge study of its own, and you need a bunch of people to look at these things.”

“Coming back to the coyote brush…that would be one of the next steps for me if we were to resume that work.

“How much coyote brush is enough? Every 10 rows, or do I put it around the border? We don’t know.”

Because Anagrus are so lightweight, studying them is a little more challenging, Wilson said.

“Rather than flying, it’s more like they’re swimming through the air,” he said. 'They’re so tiny. They’re one of the five smallest known parasitoids on planet earth, which has made them a total joy to work with. They look like a little thing with pepper–not a peppercorn, like a piece of pepper you put on your food–bouncing around in a vial.

“So how does wind affect their dispersal? And if you have a ton of insectaries or a bunch of vineyard and a little insectary–this is where the questions about landscape ecology come in.”

“What I was saying earlier about the surrounding landscape, more and more what we’ve seen in these type of studies–not just in vineyards and not just in California, but globally–is that the landscape context really tends to mediate how effective these on-farm practices can be.”

Population size and habitat size are other factors, making tracking the tiny parasitoids and their impacts elusive.

“If you don’t have enough habitat at a larger scale, you don’t have a metapopulation–a regional population of these beneficial insects–to draw into your farm. And so, if you’re in a huge monoculture and you put flowers in 10 acres, nothing might show up because there’s nothing in the area.

“In other cases, if you have so much habitat, and you add flowers, you may not see a difference because there’s so much just already coming in,” he said.

Landscapes Are Diverse | Biocontrol Results Can Vary Widely

Looking at the broader landscape of biocontrol, biodiversity, agroecological studies, scientists have found mixed results.

“There’s been some synthesis of these studies over the past 50 years, and when you diversify in agriculture in a cropping system, whether it’s for pollinators or weed control or biocontrol or whatever–a third of the time it works, a third of the time it doesn’t work, a third of the time maybe it kind of worked.

“So it’s not necessarily the absolute solution. But it’s an important principle to think about as a root cause. For example, mating disruption is awesome. We need more of that, and you can’t do that in house. Sprayable beneficial insects–those are really cool. And the sterile insect technique,” he said.

A Final and Very Practical Tip | QA Your Purchased Insects

Wilson cautioned that growers purchasing insects should do quality checks on their purchased insect shipments.

“Quality control is a major issue,” he said. “They’re living organisms, and so we always recommend to anybody who’s applying beneficial insects from an insectary to do a quality control check when you get them. We’ve had shipments with high variability. This isn’t to criticize these ancestries,” he said, adding that bugs can be damaged in the shipping process.

Next in the series of NVGG organic field days, Ground Cover Management at Opus One, featuring Kimberlee Marinelli of Opus One, Dave Kaplow of Petaluma based Eco-Management, and native plant specialist Selena Vengco for a field-based discussion exploring how thoughtful ground cover management can support soil health.


Saturday, August 1, 2026

Bokisch Vineyards' Barcelona Tour Has A Few Spaces Left for 2027 Dates

This [below] just arrived in my inbox. Having visited many wineries in Cava country last fall for the Cava Meeting for trade professionals, I was deeply impressed with the makers, the landscape, the food and the culture. One of my first steps after the that press trip and one to Jumilla/Murcia last summer, was to call Markus to get more ground truths about these regions. Now you don't have to be member of the press to get insights - you can go with a native of Penedes.

Here is the advertisement for tours the Bokisch family is leading. 

Join Markus & Liz for an unforgettable Wine Club Members-only journey beyond Barcelona—where every vineyard, village and shared meal tells part of their family's story.

For eight unforgettable days, Markus and Liz will personally guide you beyond the tourist routes into the vineyards, coastal villages, family traditions and hidden corners of Catalunya that inspired Bokisch Vineyards from the very beginning.

You'll walk through historic castles, sip Cava where Markus and Liz once lived, enjoy private winery visits unavailable to the public, dine with award-winning chefs, and spend your evenings along the Mediterranean surrounded by new friends who share your love of wine, food and travel.

This isn't simply a wine tour.

It's Spain through the Bokisch family's eyes.

With only a handful of spaces remaining for our 2027 departures, we invite our Wine Club members to join us for what many guests describe as a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Each day of the tour has been thoughtfully curated to balance unforgettable experiences with authentic moments.

Explore the birthplace of Spanish Cava in Penedès before traveling south to Terra Alta and Priorat, two of Spain's most celebrated wine regions. Wander medieval villages, discover centuries-old monasteries, enjoy Michelin-starred dining, taste wines alongside the winemakers who craft them, and experience Mediterranean life from your home base in beautiful La Ràpita.

The difference isn't just where you'll go. It's who you'll experience it with.

Markus grew up spending summers in Catalunya, and throughout the week he'll introduce you to the places where his family lived, celebrated and built lifelong friendships. You'll visit the monastery where his parents were married, stroll through villages where generations of his family still live, and gather for a farewell dinner at Lo Xalet—his grandparents' summer home overlooking the Mediterranean.

Together, Markus and Liz have spent decades building relationships with winemakers, chefs and local families throughout Spain, opening doors that simply aren't available to the average traveler.

These aren't stops on an itinerary. They're personal introductions.

Wine Club Member Exclusive

​Only Bokisch Wine Club Members are invited to participate in our Beyond Barcelona Tours.

This intimate experience is intentionally kept small so every guest enjoys meaningful access to Markus, Liz and the extraordinary people you'll meet throughout the journey.

Three 2027 Departures:

May 10th –17th  2027 - Very Limited Space Left

May 24th –31st  2027 - Very Limited Space Left

June 7th - 14th 2027 - SOLD OUT

More info: https://bokischvineyards.com/tour-of-spain/#

Friday, July 31, 2026

Popeloucham Offering $65 Vineyard Tours and Tastings in August 9 and 23 and September 6

Dear Popelouchumstah,

We are motoring amain to a relatively early harvest this year, which is, thanks to the changing climate, a more expected outcome, at least in comparison to last year’s excruciating, nail-biting phenological dénouement. [1]  But, I”m not writing to shoot the breeze about the weather, rather (and it is my great pleasure) to invite you to join us this summer for some very special wine tasting seminars/vineyard tours. [2]  The tasting seminars (featuring 6 wines) will introduce some of the new bottlings (some in shockingly short supply) - Grenache Noir, Ruchè, The Boy Who Cried Terroir, etc. as well as some older vintages and surprises from the library.  

     The cost of the afternoon seminar/tours is $65 per person; the seminars/tours will begin promptly at 3:00 p.m. at the Popelouchum vineyard. [3]   The dates are: August 9th, August 23rd and September 6th though we might possibly add another date if we are not crazy busy with harvest. The season will culminate in a festive harvest dinner at the vineyard on September 27th. The four-course family style dinner will be prepared by our friends, Drew and Ellie Quintana of Inaka Fusion Restaurant in San Juan Bautista, and will feature some ultra-rare bottlings and produce from the Popelouchum Estate. We are still working on some details, so save-the-date for now and watch for the ticket sale announcement soon. The vintage is looking quite promising this year, and I very much look forward to seeing you ‘ere long.

     Yrs. in glucose + fructose bliss,



    Randall Grahm

PS A recent podcast with Randall...https://www.globalwinebank.com/2026/06/randall-grahm-new-ideas-in-terroir-at-popelouchum-estate/


Tuesday, July 28, 2026

"Going Toe to Toe with Grower Champagne" | Sparkling Wine Panel at Unfiltered Wine Festival Celebrates California's Finest

 From pet nat to méthode traditionnelle, four producers talk about the tiny vanguard of artisanal sparkling wines emerging from California

This is the first in a series of posts about the Unfiltered Wine Festival that took place this past weekend in Berkeley.


Sparkling wine, oh, sparkling wine! It seems to be in a bit of a fizzy tizzy with some regions going gangbusters and others flailing or repositioning themselves. And now natural-ish producers are entering the building.

As Champagne fidgets over its declining sales down from a pandemic peak of 326 million bottles in 2022 down to 266 million bottles by the end of 2025, compare that with Prosecco where sales have more than doubled over the past decade. (Champagne really uses a lot of herbicide, as these photos from Caroline Henry show, and Prosecco is also lame on organic with a mere six percent of its acreage certified organic).

Cava launched its newly designated organically grown category (“Guarda Superior”), and Oregon is gunning for a breakout spot in the sparkling category with its latest coalition of 50 producers banding together and branding themselves Method Oregon. They, too, have imposed pesticide limits (effective in 2029) prohibiting the use of synthetic herbicides. 

While California has sparkling powerhouses–Roederer, Domaine Carneros, Domaine Chandon–that keep humming along (none farming organically these days, Domaine Carneros once was), the natural wine movement’s love of pet nat bubbles has bubbled over to more serious renditions, as we witnessed at Saturday’s panel discussion at Unfiltered Wine Festival’s panel “Breaking the Champagne Spell: California’s Great Sparkling Wine Experiment.”

Everyone who came to the Unfiltered Wine Festival was given a glass of Donkey and Goat’s Lily’s Pet Nat when they came through the entry door.

Here are a few excerpts from the panel that have been very very very lightly edited for grammar, etc. 

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Jared Brandt, Donkey and Goat

Jared Brandt of Donkey and Goat introduced the panel, saying how proud and happy he was that producers here “are now going toe to toe with grower champagne.”

“Why is that, and why did that happen?” he said, complimenting the festival for educating people about all the effort and passion that goes into these wines. 

“People don't always understand the farming and the intentionality behind these wines and the incredible work that goes into creating these wines. So part of what we're doing here is educating and elevating people's awareness of just how special these growers are,” he said.

Matt Wood, Indie Wine Podcast

Moderator Matt Wood, of Indie Wine Podcast began with a brief recap of California sparkling wine’s roller coaster ride through history.

“My idea for this festival [panel] was that sparkling wine in California has always been a little bit of a white whale since the beginning of the industry. There’s been wineries chasing it, oftentimes going through heartbreak, spending money, going bankrupt. A lot of time and energy has been spent, but it seems like in the last few years it’s really turned the corner, and there’s a huge range of wines that are made now in a sparkling style that are just great tasting wines that can hold up to any other sparkling wines of the world.”

Brandt recalled his first encounter with a pet nat in France when he was hooked. 

“I'd never had a pet nat before, and I got super interested in it,” said Brandt, “and so from there on I kept exploring the idea of pet nats. A gentleman named Andrea Calek made one called Blonde, which I loved…and a guy named Louis…and a friend of Lou's wife, Bart…would chat via email. So I started experimenting with making a pet nat. And for context, no one in America made it at the time.”

Since no one was making it, no one knew how to make it, he said. 

“But there's a custom bubble facility, Rack and Riddle–I told them what I wanted to do, and they told me I had my head up my ass. So that's how I got started in it.”

“I think sparkling wines are actually just really, really fun and just super versatile.”

Chris Cottrell, Under the Wire

Jared Brandt (Donkey and Goat), Chris Cottrell (Under the Wire) and Michael Cruse (Cruse Wine Co.) 

Chris Cottrell from Bedrock and Under the Wire described how he and Morgan Twain-Peterson MW met working in a shop (Pet Wines, on the Upper East Side in NYC).

“That’s where I discovered wine,” said Cottrell, “and that wine shop had a very European sense in the drinking age, so I was able to taste wine there–but also I got lucky because it was in our very small artisanal wine shop–and so early on in me discovering wine, grower Champagne was a big part of that. 

“And we’re talking 2004, so really kind of just at the stage when grower Champagnes were coming into the market. That store only sold grower champagnes. There was no food. There were no other champagnes you could buy there, outside of grower Champagnes.”

“So Morgan and I both found a love of grower Champagne pretty early on in our lives, and I came out and started working harvest for Bedrock in 2008, and then in 2011, Morgan asked, ‘What wine would I want to make with it?’

Cottrell said, “sparkling wine.”

“That became our own thing together…That conversation ended up getting to a point where actually we found Rack and Riddle because the first two vintages were bubbles were done there.”

“At that point, 2011, when we looked at California, there were a lot of great large house producers like Gloria Ferrer, like Scharmsberg, Roederer–direct from Champagne. But at that point, if you looked around California, there was essentially no small production, particularly single-digit sparkling wines.”

Michael Cruse, Cruse Wine Co.

Cruse started his talk with a caveat that getting started in artisanal sparkling wine is not for the faint of heart. 

“I gave a talk one time at Haas Business School [at U.C. Berkeley], and the title of the talk was ‘Sparkling Wine in California: How to Make Very Little Money Very, Very Very Slowly,’” he said, getting a laugh from the crowd.

“My M.O. has really been how do we take the tools of friends who have actually gone through all the permutations of what we do in sparkling wine, and how do we sort of pick and choose the methods to best express that here in California.”

He served his Tradition wine. 

“It's our entry level wine. It’s mainly Sonoma County–55% Pinot Noir, the remainder Chardonnay, and then we have a fair amount of Reserve wine that goes back to 2015,” he said.

Brad Kurtz, Gloria Ferrer

Kurtz is the vineyard director at Gloria Ferrer in the Sonoma side of the Carneros. Working with an all estate sparkling wine producer, he brought a different perspective to the panel, including one of scale. 

He served a 2022 Sencilla–a 100% Chardonnay with zero dosage. While the winery produces a lot of wine in the wholesale market (it makes 60,000 cases a year), it also experiments with small lots of limited production wines. 

It was started by the Ferrer family from Penedes (near Barcelona). The Ferrer family was famous for its massive Cava brand, Freixenet, now owned 100 percent, as of 2026, by Henkell Freixenet, a German corporation. Today the Ferrer family retains a lot of vines for its other Cava labels.

I had the pleasure of a tasting and tour at the Ferrer family’s home vineyard and winery in November [along with Elaine Chukan Brown], where the Ferrer family now makes its rare, high end Can Sala by hand in an historic wine press.

Said Kurtz, “This is one of our “Innovation” small production wines. It’s one that I personally love. That’s why I chose to bring it. It’s one that I drink on a daily basis. It’s probably my go-to. It’s all estate grown.”

The company certified the entire 300+ acre estate in 2025, converted during Kurtz’s tenure.

He used to work at Wente in Livermore, before he was presented with the opportunity to work at Gloria Ferrer. 

“I haven’t been around as long as these gentlemen in the sparkling wine game,” he said.

“I was attracted to sparkling wine as a grower. I was enticed by a three week long harvest and being able to be done by mid-September, and having basically all the estate vineyards–Pinot Noir, Chardonnay–with the focus of producing sparkling wine.”

“Everything, all of our lots are planted separately and graded and blended accordingly for the final wine and how long it will spend at tirage and what the final dosage will be. So all of that is decided at blending.”

“All our vineyards are planted and designed to produce sparkling wine, not to produce [still] Pinot Noir or to produce [still] Chardonnay. It was to show can we produce the best quality sparkling wine in the Carneros.”

[The original founding winemaker 40 years ago at Gloria Ferrer was Eileen Crane, who went on later to lead the Taittinger’s Domaine Carneros, once organically farmed. Crane died recently. A high profile service honoring her memory was held.]

Vineyards

When Brad started in 2021, the team began the conversion over to certifying all 330 acres of vineyards. [The winery is now also on the way to certifying its winery as well, which will enable it to label future estate wines “Made with Organic Grapes.”]

“We are now the largest organic grape grower in Sonoma County, so we are very proud of that fact,” said Kurtz. “And it was not easy. We just had our CCOF audit yesterday, and it was a lot of large stacks of paperwork. But it’s well worth it, and I think it really is something to be proud of and something that speaks to consumers, and consumers understand the work that goes into that, and we see it in wiring the quality that that brings to the farming.”

Said Kurtz, “There’s no textbook on how to grow sparkling wine in California. So it’s a lot of experimentation. It’s a lot of ‘Oh, we did this in this block, and it turned out extraordinarily well. Let’s try to expand that into other blocks.’ 

“Luckily, I have 60 blocks to work with–mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is a site-driven product.”

“When I sell grapes–I sell quite a bit of grapes as well–when I sell grapes, the first question I get is, ‘Oh, what’s the clone?’ But if I gave you the same clone in two different sites, you wouldn’t even know it was the same clone when it comes to sparkling wine. Site comes first.”

“I would say rootstock is the next biggest choice that you can make. Way over clone, I think rootstock has a huge impact on sparkling wine more than anything.”

“I think also row orientation, trellis style, age of vines, young vines versus old vines–all of these things have dramatic impacts–and then ultimately the blend.”

Discussion

Cruse weighed in on viticulture for sparkling wine in California versus France. 

“When you go to Champagne, you'll see Pinot Noir that's at like seven, maybe 8% potential alcohol, and all the color is uniform. You do not see that in California,” he said.

Cottrell said their first priority became looking for sites that in still wine, “had a very unique hallmark.” Example: “This can only come from Brosseau, right? So a site that already had a very signature flavor to it and sort of character to it. 

“What we found when we made the wine for still for two years…was what Michael was saying is a lot of sites in California, whether it's Chard or Pinot or Zinfandel, don't really have much character or flavor when you're picking out of 9, 10, 11% alcohol…there's just not much there there. 

“So we were really trying to find sites that when you tasted them at that low potential alcohol, had a lot of personality, had a lot of flavor packed into it, and with Brosseau specifically…it just was oozing with texture and flavor. And there it's kind of interesting because it's a very warm site… in the Chalone AVA, next to Pinnacles National Park. It's a warm site, but it's planted on limestone and granite.”

“So our focus really has been on finding sites that have a lot of flavor. You can really taste the site at lower sugars and lower pHs, and that's generally led us to kind of extreme sites. Whether it's Brosseau, which kind of is on its own island, whether it's Alder Springs, which is kind of on its own island, or Bedrock Vineyard–it’s unique kind of extreme is that the vines were were planted in 1888…So, really looking for flavorful sites at lower sugar and lower [yield] the acre, and farmed really well.”

Styles: Sparkling Is Just “Changing the Aperture”

Cruise said site is all. 

“I really truly in my heart of hearts believe that sparkling wine is just another method to show site. Honestly…you can show site in still wine, show site in sparkling wine. So it's just another…like an electron microscope versus a light. Or something like that. And then in terms of like pet nat or blends or single vineyard or whatever we're just sort of changing the aperture.

“Pet nat for me has always been something that leans on the primary juicy… the kind of grapiness of the wine. Anything with traditional method, you'll see for my wines anyway, tends to be a little bit more savory.”

Kurtz said Gloria Ferrer has a house style, but also experiments. 

“Most of our wines are wines that are out there in distribution…They’re supposed to be approachable. They’re supposed to be something that potentially has a little more sugar…They are fruitier. They are fresh. They are pure. They’re trying to be bright and pure and fresh and fruity and show the California sunshine that we get here, and that’s our house style. 

“I really respect what a lot of other growers and producers do with their style, but that’s what has made Gloria what it is for so many years, and hopefully many, many years to come. 

“We get to play around on small scales with our Innovation wines–playing around with single vineyard stuff from our estates, showing off clones, showing off different vessels–amphora versus barrel versus whatever else it may be, Methode ancestral wines, fun small-scale projects that we pour out for our wine club and tasting room.”

“The classics–the non-vintage, multi-vintage wines, the Royal Cuvee-those are wines that we’ve been making for a long time, and you don’t mess with the style. The vintage to vintage variation is there, but the style is true.”

Sourcing from a variety of sites and vineyards across the state at Under the Wire, the approach is different, Cottrell said.

“Even though I love like Cruse or Gloria Ferrer with their house styles,” he said, “we were very much trying to be the counterpoint to that,” he said. “Alder Springs and Brosseau are about a six to seven hour drive apart from each other. If these wines don't taste completely different, like our whole thesis on terroir via bubbles is fucked, and they did taste completely different.”

“Bedrock has always been our main business as a winery, so at our scale for Under the Wire, we're going to focus on making 1,200 to 2,400 bottles every year because we want to see what that vineyard does in different years, and we've we've made the wines also to age for a long time,

“How we make the wine, we pretty much do the same thing every year. There's always a little bit of adjustment, like Pinot…Always fermenting in old oak, aging in old oak, so we kind of have this consistency of how we press and ferment the wine, and that leads to like where you really can track a vineyard and kind of admit the variations over years.”

For Kurtz, the options the sparkling winemaker has are endless, compared to still wine. 

“There's a few choices to make with still wine, right? There's a pick decision. There's fermentation. How you're going to ferment it? Aging time? Which barrels to choose? All of that.”

“For sparkling, there are infinite choices…when you're going to pick it, how you're going to ferment it? What levels are you going to charge at? Like what carbonation pressure levels are you going for? How long are you going to leave it in tirage? When you disgorge it? How are you going to disgorge it? What's your dosage going to look like? What are you going to use as your dosage base? What are the sugar levels going to be?…There's just so many choices to make. 

“To echo what you guys said [about it taking a long time to see the results], our Carneros Cuvee is nine years in tirage. Our Royal Cuvee is six years in tirage. I started with my sixth harvest… and I haven't seen the release of the first Royal Cuvee that I produced there, and I won't see the release of our first Carneros, my first Carneros Cuvee, for another three to four years.”

History Enters the Picture: Making Sparkling Zinfandel

Cottrell spoke about Buena Vista’s legacy in sparkling that began when Arpad Haraszthy, son of California wine pioneer Agoston Haraszthy–credited with making the first commercial wine in 1857–went to Champaign in 1868 to study sparkling wine. 

“This is kind of a forgotten story about the original great sparkling wine house of California.,” he said. 

It’s all documented in a book called A Toast to Eclipse.

“It’s an incredible book. Arpad came back to California after studying in Champagne. He founded a winery in San Francisco called Eclipse, which ended up blowing up. He was in the 19th century–there were a lot of busts and booms in California–and he definitely felt all of them. But in the good times, he was making hundreds of 1,000s of bottles of traditional method sparkling wine in San Francisco, sourced from out near Wente, Livermore, and up in Sonoma. [His primary vineyard was in Yolo County.] 

“One of Arpad’s favorite grapes to make sparkling wine with was Zinfandel. Most people don’t realize this, but Zinfandel is actually a high acid grape. When you pick Zinfandel at sparkling wine alcohol levels, you know about 18, 19 Brix we’re talking about, the pHs, the TAs could be very similar to Chardonnay or Pinot. 

“So we saw this wine as an ode to some of the original method traditional sparkling wine from California from vines that were planted during Arpad’s time. This is from our home vineyard Bedrock. The oldest vines there date back to 1888. So it's our historical nod to the original great, traditional method sparkling wine.”

Climate Change: Trialing Malvasia

Experimentation with varieties continues at Gloria Ferrer, Kurtz said.

“We're playing around a lot with different varieties in very, very small quantities…We make 100% Pinot Blanc sparkling wine, Illumina, which is one of my favorites. Very light, very pretty. We don't leave it in a garage for a long time, and it really shows that bright fruit, that kind of honey.

And then you know, playing around with small percentages of other stuff, we planted some Malvasia on the property. When the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are struggling in heat, the Malvasia is growing like crazy, and it could be happier.”

Pet Nat

In the Q and A, I asked about the role that pet nat has played in natural wine’s popularity.

“It seems to me that pet nat really fueled a lot of the natural wine movement in terms of revenues–it was very approachable. It was fruity. It was bubbly. 

"Prosecco is a worldwide phenomenon right now. I went to the Cava meeting this year, where Cava announced its new organic-only designation, and I’m sure they’re going to be taking on Champagne in that way because Champagne uses a horrific amount of herbicides. And I don’t know if anyone here reads Carolyn Henry…I published her photos on my own substack. Anyway, there’s a lot of different sparkling choices now. It’s really interesting to see this panel because it’s real sparkling winemakers compared to Pat Net, which has been so predominant in natural wine. And I just wonder if you could comment on how natural wine has shaped the landscape. How pet nat has shaped the landscape of natural wine?”

Said Brandt, “I personally struggle with natural wine and pet nat because a lot of the wines I think are not drinkable, to be honest, right? 

“I think you’re probably right…Any pet nat is really approachable. It’s really fun. A lot of them are in the $20 to $25 range, which makes them really easy to drink. And so it probably did fuel it. 

“Lily’s though is an exception…most pet nets are like $25-30, and we charge $45. And it always sells out.”

“I think a lot of what fueled natural wine was a different generation, and they were not interested in all the pretense of wine…I think that was probably part of it as well–it was just a rebellion against that.”

Another Dynamic?

“I wonder about a different question,” Brandt said, “…if you look at natural wine and the rise of social media, they are almost parallel. So did social media change the dynamic of the wine business–did that lead to the rise of natural wine? I don’t have an answer for that, but I’ve thought about it a lot.”

Next up: more coverage of Unfiltered to come, on natural versus conventional wine, table wine, Lodi as a hotbed for new wines, and more. Subscribe!