Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Ram's Gate Winery Now Regenerative Organic Certified


Congrats to Ram's Gate on this worthy achievement

Press Release

SONOMA, Calif., (Oct.20, 2025) — Jeff O’Neill, Proprietor of Ram’s Gate Winery in Sonoma’s Carneros AVA, announces today that the winery’s 28 acres of estate vineyards have earned Regenerative Organic Certified® (ROC™) distinction, one of only 25 wineries in the world to achieve this rigorous certification. This milestone builds on the momentum of Ram’s Gate’s California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) certification in 2024 and underscores the company’s deep-rooted commitment to environmentally responsible practices, further demonstrated by O’Neill Vintners & Distillers’ Green Medal Leader Award in 2021 and Certified B Corporation status in 2022.

“Ram’s Gate Winery’s Regenerative Organic Certification is an incredible achievement and testament to the passion and dedication of our entire team,” says O’Neill. “This recognition reflects our deep belief that exceptional wine begins with healthy soil, balanced ecosystems, and a collective commitment to land stewardship.”

The ROC™ program, overseen by the nonprofit Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA), sets one of the highest standards in agriculture today. Building on the foundation of USDA organic certification, the principles of ROC™ prioritize soil health by fostering organic matter, increasing diversity, sequestering carbon, integrating animals, and providing social fairness for farm workers. This holistic approach ensures that agriculture benefits both the environment and people, promoting more sustainable ecosystems and communities.

At Ram’s Gate, regenerative organic farming is designed not just to preserve the land, but to restore and enhance it with every vintage. The winery’s approach prioritizes building healthier soils and more climate resilient vineyards, leading to fruit that transparently expresses site, soil, and season. In tandem with the winery’s ROC™ recognition, O’Neill Head of Sustainability Caine Thompson and Winemaker Joe Nielsen launched an ambitious agroforestry initiative in March 2025; an approach practiced by a small set of wineries across France, including Château Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux and Champagne Ruinart. As a part of this initiative, the team planted 40 fruit trees per acre directly within the vineyard rows, which will continue to improve soil health, increase biodiversity, and create a resilient ecosystem built to thrive amid the challenges of a changing climate. 

Over the last several years, Ram’s Gate has also eliminated all synthetic inputs and introduced cover crops to improve soil structure and biodiversity. Natural pest control is maintained through falconry and owl boxes, while an annual sheep grazing program assists with weed management and nutrient cycling. Together, these practices reinforce Ram’s Gate’s commitment to environmental stewardship and cultivating a thriving, resilient vineyard ecosystem. Ram’s Gate’s 28-acre estate vineyard has been Certified Sustainable since 2015 and additionally holds the Certified Fish Friendly Farming® designation.

“From the beginning, our philosophy at Ram’s Gate has been rooted in the idea that the best wines come from vineyards in balance with nature,” says O’Neill. “Regenerative farming allows us to go beyond organic practices—to not only protect the land but actively improve it for generations to come.”

Tuesday, October 14, 2025

Gotta Laugh | New Michelin Wine's Organic Explainer Shows Heavily Herbicided Sonoma Wine from Pagani Ranch

Here is Vanessa Conlin, Master of Wine, in a Wine Access video for consumers to buy wines featured at the prestigious Per Se restaurant in New York. (Per Se's wine list used to include Ridge's Pagani Zin.) It's a vineyard that is heavily farmed with synthetic herbicide and has been for years. 

I just can't help myself sometimes. I have to laugh. But it's not funny.

Michelin Guide announced today that it's now going to cover wine. It could be great news.

BUT...Its first organic explainer includes a bottle shot of one of Sonoma's oldest synthetic herbicide users, Pagani Ranch, allegedly picked by elite wine directors at WineAceess. That's not funny.

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Wine Access is a company that sells wine–i.e. a merchant, not an organic expert. It's recently been bought by a startup–Full Glass Wine–in 2024. Full Glass appears to be on a bit of a shopping spree. 

(As a former startup C-suite executive in several multimillion dollar companies fueled by big dotcom cash, I remember the days. "Get Big Fast," they said. We can see where that landed.) 

Wine Access is banking on its star somm line up and buying power to seize the day. To be fair, these wine experts from prestigious restaurants are not paid to assess how green the farming is in the wines they select and sell. (That's sad but...) 

They are taste experts and they work for the most elite institutions–where selling expensive wine is a big economic factor in the restaurant's business success. (Wine accounts for a bigger percentage of high end restaurant profits than food in many establishments). 

Although it's not said so, I am beginning to wonder if Full Glass or Wine Access is greasing the slides and is forging a paid partnership with Wine Access and Michelin's new wine division. (Obviously companies like JancisRobinson.com and the Wine Advocate have been under pressure for years to do deals like this but have so far seemed to have maintained editorial integrity.)

(In my years in startup land, we used to pay for amazingly high priced partnerships because it made business sense when you're trying to get market share and brand recognition. But I digress from the topic–which is organic and truthful, accurate content.)

Wine Access previously signed, in 2023, a deal with Sunset magazine to run a Sunset magazine wine club. Its press release then said, "In 2021, Wine Access was named the official wine provider of the MICHELIN Guide." So this relationship has a history. 


In addition to its coveted quality stars, Michelin also said it would give new green stars to wine producers. 

Here's an excerpt from Michelin Guide's organic explainer, from Wine Access provided content.

REALITY: ORGANIC GRAPES - OFTEN "WINE BY WINE" NOT BY WINE BRAND

Are these new "green wine" star givers going to understand that most small (and not so small) wineries in the USA are not all estate, and that many organic estate producers ALSO buy grapes from other producers who do not farm under the same green practices that the estate does? 

I call them hybrid producers and their numbers are huge. 

Many, many, many estate wineries also buy grapes from others. They may make any kind of wine they want to from them. Many make single vineyard designates–95% of the grapes in such a wine must be from the named vineyard. That's what this Ridge's Pagani wine is. 

PAGANI NEVER CLAIMED TO BE ORGANIC. IT USES A LOT OF HERBICIDE. THAT IS LEGAL. CALLING IT ORGANIC IS NOT.

Here is an excerpt from Pagani's pesticide use report, which is its official report to the state of California on its 2025 sprays in Sonoma County vines. 


As you can see, Pagani sprayed Lifeline herbicide on all of its 77 acres. Organic regulations prohibit the use of synthetic herbicide, which is what Lifeline (glufonisate ammonium) is. Many experts say it is worse than Roundup (glyphosate plus other ingredients which scientists say are more toxic than glyphosate alone). Until recently it used plenty of Roundup Powermax Herbicide, a commercial, extra strength version of the product only professionals can purchase. (Geeky? View three years of PUR data from Pagani here, showing earlier herbicide use.)

Another spray listed here, Alion, is a pre-emergent herbicide, which many experts say is worse than Roundup or Lifeline.

RIDGE DOES NOT SAY PAGANI IS ORGANIC

It is true that Ridge Vineyards has made all of its estates organic and certified them, but that is only its own estate wines. 

Here is its description of the Pagani wine. It does not say it's an estate wine or farmed organically.

I first watched this unfold when Robert Parker's Wine Advocate called out Ridge as a Green Star. Its own estate is and is to be commended for this. I worship the ground Ridge's vineyard manager David Gates walks on and call him (as a journalist) from time to time for expert opinions. 

But Pagani is not organic. Who says so? 

WHO SAYS PAGANI FROM RIDGE IS ORGANIC?

Apparently, it's Wine Access.com "experts" (which has a content relationship with Michelin) or Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (owned by Michelin) who have not done their homework.

Too many wine experts with incredible sensory skills are credentialed by organizations that do not take the chemicals used in wine grape farming seriously enough to teach them. (And yet we know they can affect and improve flavor. One study by wine economists looked at 128,000 French wines scores from more than 30 French wine experts from 1995 to 2015 and found that overall, organically certified vines accounted for an average 6 point bump in scores and biodynamic farming an average 12 point bump.) 

Is it possible this misunderstanding about Ridge's Pagani came from Robert Parker muddying the waters with its green stars program? That program gave a green star by brand (not wine by wine) to Ridge. 

It you ask me, the MWs and MSs and WSET diploma experts should all be required to take at least one semester of training that covers both conventional and organic vineyard management. Then they might not make these kinds of rookie mistakes. 

Wednesday, October 8, 2025

Slow Wine USA at the Inaugural Terra Madre of the Americas: A Talk, A Meet the Maker Area, An Enoteca and An Agroforestry Talk (Plus U.C. Davis Panel)

Caine Thompson, head of sustainability for O'Neill Vintners and Distillers giving a presentation on agroforestry
in France and U.S. He has led tree planting in vineyards at Ram's Gate in Sonoma and Robert Hall in Paso
Robles to increase biodiversity. 

It was a first. 

A first for Slow Wine USA. A first for Slow Wine USA wineries. A first for Terra Madre of the Americas.

Visit Sacramento brokered a deal with Slow Food International to bring an Americas only version of the grand, global food fair in Italy, Terra Madre, to California. The international organization has begun to feature regional versions of the event in Japan, Belgium, the Nordic countries and elsewhere. 

ATTENDANCE: 140,000+

Estimates from Visit Sacramento and the "Farm to Fork Capital of America" Facebook page say 140,000 to 165,000 attended over three days.



 (The event piggybacked on Sacramento's annual Farm to Fork event which typically draws 100,000 over two days.) 

MORE THAN 50 U.S.WINERIES POURED

Despite the fact that the event took place during harvest, more than 50 U.S. wineries participated.

Here are a few scenes from the three day event:

• A panel with North American and South American winemakers including Steve Matthiasson (from Napa) and Paul Bush from Madrona Vineyard in Casino (in the Sierra Foothills). 

• A Sip and Savor event providing an overview of Slow Wine USA, led by national editor Deborah Parker Wong, managing editor Pam Strayer (me) and former Sacramento Bee wine journalist), wine judge and author Mike Dunne, now a Slow Wine USA field contributor for the Sierra Foothills.

• A talk on agroforestry in vineyards with Caine Thompson, head of sustainability for O'Neill Vintners and Distillers which has planted fruit trees in its vineyards at Ram's Gate in Sonoma's Carneros and at Robert Hall in Paso Robles

SLOW WINE USA EVENT PHOTOS

Enjoy these photos below.

SATURDAY WINEMAKER PANEL

 (Left and center left-unnamed South American winemakers). Center right, Steve Matthiasson (from Napa) and right, Paul Bush from Madrona Vineyard in Casino (in the Sierra Foothills).

EVENT POSTER

Event poster showing featured headliner speakers

SUNDAY PANEL ON SLOW WINE USA GUIDE

Author Mike Dunne speaks with a Slow Wine USA fan


Wine educator Deborah Parker Wong with wines tasted
for Slow Wine USA Guide Overview panel,
a sip and savor event.

MEET THE MAKER WALK AROUND TASTING 

Jambe des Bois winegrower Dan (married to 
JDB winemaker Danielle Langlois) from Sonoma poured for 
a fan at the Meet the Maker area. Consumers paid $50
to meet more than 50 winemakers in hosted tastings.

Andis Wines GM Lorenzo Muslia (a former Florentine
restauranteur) pours for an attendee. And is seeking 
organic certification, a three year process. 

ENOTECA (WINE PURCHASE BY THE GLASS)
                        
Wines by the glass were available for purchase from dozens of Slow Wine 
USA wineries. (Visit Sacramento booked the sponsors.)

U. C. DAVIS TERRA MADRE PARTICIPATION

"The Americas: Wine and Science" panel of scientists from U.C. Davis Vit and Enology faculty
and a South American vintner discussed the state of climate impacts on winegrowing and research on mitigations.
At right, newly appointed department chair Ben Monpetit.
  (He has been in the dept. since 2016 and was promoted to
department chair in 2025). 

The next Terra Madre USA, sponsored by Visit Sacramento, is scheduled to take place in Sacramento in 2027. 

130+ ORGANIC ESTATE WINERIES IN SLOW WINE USA 

NOTE: Terra Madre and Slow Wine USA do not require organic certification or a ban on synthetics in farming–a fact I am mentioning to eliminate any reader confusion because this blog only features wines from certified organic vines. 

What the guide does do: it does not review individual wines farmed with synthetic herbicides. 

Yet, Slow Wine USA is the only eco friendly wine guide in the USA and is the most transparent about the winegrowing and winemaking processes for each wine reviewed. Writers include 16 field contributors located in wine growing regions who annually visit and taste at the wineries. 

Slow Wine USA is the best the US gets to featuring wineries with certified organic vines, with more than 135 (out of 380) included in the guide. The guide is $25 and available for purchase online at slow foods website or on Amazon.com. 



Monday, October 6, 2025

Visit Sacramento's Partnership with Slow Food Brings First (FREE) Terra Madre to California: Authentic Foodie Culture or Corporate Promotion? A Bit of Both

Visit Sacramento's multimillion dollar investment in bringing Slow Food International's Terra Madre to the Americas brought food–healthy or not–to the fore to the Italian based, international "good, clean, fair" new event in California's Sacramento convention center for a three day fair. 

While the Turin based event is five days, much of it staged out doors, the California event, spanning both North and South America, was geographcally close to California's specialty crops epicenter and was staged indoors.  

California's ag sector grows a quarter of the country's food, making it a prime target for making U.S. ag healthier.

Panel | Challenges and Opportunities Facing California Agriculture | Learn about the challenges that face agriculture in California and hear the opportunities to overcome them.

Hosts: Ashley Stokes, Ph.D., Dean, UC Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences | Anne Todgham, Ph.D., Associate Professor, UC Davis Department of Animal Science | Colin Dixon, Director, Student Farm, UC Davis Agricultural Sustainability Institute | Majdi Abou Najm, Ph.D., Lead Faculty Advisor for the Sustainable Agriculture and Food Systems, UC Davis Department of Land, Air and Water Resources | Neal M. Williams, Ph.D., Professor of Entomology, UC Davis Department of Entomology and Nematology 

And while health and coping with climate change in ag were on display–thanks to U.C. Davis' Health Sciences many panels–climate friendly eating was not really a central focus. 

Good meat and healthy ranching was, but not beans or poultry–much better options on the climate friendly eating scale. Embarrassingly enough, while Slow Wine USA put on a no-herbicided wine enoteca (selling wine by the glass $14 from wine donated by local wineries) and meet the maker area ($50 admission to taste at 50 some stands, again from winery donated time and money), two headliners had a different playbook.

Darrell Corti and Jeremiah Towers on stage

Sacramento grocer Darrell Corti, a specialist in Italian food, and former chef Jeremiah Tower (Chez Panisse, Stars, Santa Fe Bar and Grill), toasted to the event on stage as they drank Moet et Chandon champagne (definitely grown with herbicide and fungicide) and ate caviar. Caviar.

(We could have had organically grown sparkling wine from Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma on display or organic grower Champagne or Oregon biodynamic sparkling wine.) 

Is Moet really the message Slow Food International wants to convey and that Visit Sacramento spent millions to promote?

California's agricultural economy is so large that it ranks as the world's fifth-largest supplier of food so it's a good place to have discussions about healthier food, as the U.C. Davis team showed in a series of panels, including one on anti-inflammatory foods. 

Alice Waters (a video) and Chef Ann both see direct organic
farmer to school sales as an economic and health engine

The biggest star was Alice Waters, who started Chez Panisse in 1971. Now in her early 80s, the crowd cheered for her on a panel on school lunches as if she were Taylor Swift. 

Also on her panel was Chef Ann, who has a foundation devoted to helping improve school lunches with direct to farmer purchasing.

I happened to sit next to a second grade school teacher who teaches in a bilingual school in Davis. She said her students loved to read the Chez Panisse menu each week out loud in the classroom. Surprisingly,that would be the downstairs (the very expensive) menu. "They like to learn about new foods," she said, adding that their parents reported to her that the kids were eating better and even asking for apples and other healthy fare.

A panel entitled Every Bite Matters: How Eating Shapes Agriculture:
Mas Masumoto, 
 food tour operator Dawnie Andrak, 

farmer Tom Willey, and coop GM Brian Munn

Another panel with our most famous California organic farmers-Masumoto Family Farm and TD Wiley Farms–spoke out about how to get their organic messaging out to consumers and wholesale buyers. Wiley is on a weekly podcast. And in every box of produce the farm ships they include a story about the farm. A different story every week. "Some of our wholesalers have papered the walls with them over the years," Wiley said. 

Masumoto has written close to 15+ books, including some for children. 

Anonymous farming is not for them. They said storytelling is the way to people's purchasing power. 

Brian Munn, president of the Sacramento Natural Foods Coop, shared a feel good story about the coop, founded in 1972. When egg prices soared this year, the coop voted to keep them from spiraling out of control, deciding instead to absorb those extra costs elsewhere.

WERE HOTEL ROOM OCCUPANCY RATES A VALID MEASURE OF SUCCESS?

The downtown Hyatt Regency and Sheraton Grand hotels were at 100% and 95% capacity throughout the weekend, Testa said. ($300,000 in advertising throughout the Bay Area may have helped but I met only locals at the event, plus those who came to exhibit and stayed in a hotel room). So at what cost and to benefit who on might ask about the millions of dollars spent on the event? 

Of course, hotel room occupancy benefits the city. The occupancy tax is 15% to 16.45%. But the event will be taking place only every other year. 

Testa's salary is $425,775, according to Pro Publica. 

In Oregon, the Travel Oregon CEO Todd Davidson's resigned this summer (after 30 years) amidst a sea of complaints about his $477,000 in compensation for running a 73 person agency. And occupancy rates are declining as international visitors and Canadians visit less. 

Authorities said corporation sponsorships from one tribe ($500,000), Bank of America and U.C. Health Sciences (more public money) offset the Terra Madre expenses. 

That might explain how Negronis become a Slow Drinks beverage? A very large donation, insiders said, enabling scholarships–and a whole booth and large signage for Negronis, courtesy of Campari. 

So Slow Food has plenty of paradox to juggle. 

Already organizers were talking about what to change next time around, as they plan to stage the festival every two years. 

One takeaway–more food to actually eat in the conference hall. There was very little of that inside the conference center (and a lot outside from local food trucks, mostly with unhealthy food). Change is on the horizon.