Organic Wines Uncorked: Raise an Organic Glass to Fish Restaurant

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Raise an Organic Glass to Fish Restaurant

I was happy Sunday to dine at Fish restaurant in Sausalito, everybody's favorite seaside place. As a born and bred East-Coaster who lived on the coast of Maine for 7 years, I can't help but have a soft spot for any outdoor place where one can eat sustainably fished seafood with a killer view of the water.

So it was with a special glee that I discovered that, to my great astonishment, the wonderful folks at Fish now have a 99% organic wine list! Some of my favorite Mendo vineyards were represented - McFadden's Pinot Gris, Elizabeth Spencer's Sauvignon Blanc (via Norma Gibson's vineyard) and a few other choice selections. (The online web site wine list doesn't list them - apparently it is not up to date - or I could recap more of them for you).

I called the restaurant today to offer my praise and thanks but the line was busy numerous times. So if you should happen to drop by, please tell them for me, would you?

I'm planning to meet some friends at Ajanta - a favorite East Bay Indian restaurant - and emailed them today about why they don't seem to have any organic wines on their wine list. Could this be a movement? Could we all start doing this soon?

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Wines We Cover

We publish information about wines grown from certified organic or Biodynamic vineyards that are generally made with sulfites (which are usually added in small amounts to preserve the wine).

That includes these certification types:

ORGANIC WINE CERTIFICATIONS

• Made with Organic Grapes

Vineyards: certified organic

Vinification: less than 100 ppm of sulfites (i.e. a normal range)

Winery: certified organic facility

Labeling: front or back label

• Ingredients: Organic Grapes

Vineyards: certified organic

Vinification: up to 350 ppm of sulfites (same as for any non organic wine)

Labeling: back label only

BIODYNAMIC® CERTIFICATIONS

• Biodynamic Wine

Vineyards: certified biodynamic

Yeasts: native

Vinification: less than 100 ppm of sulfites; no additives of any kind

Winery: certified biodynamic facility

Labeling: front or back label; Demeter logo may appear

• Made with Biodynamic Grapes

Vineyards: certified biodynamic

Yeasts: native or organic

Vinification: less than 100 ppm of sulfites; limited number of additives permitted

Winery: certified biodynamic facility

Labeling: front or back

Note: unlike organically grown wines, for which there is a category called "Ingredients: Organic Grapes," wines sourced from biodynamic grapes may not make any biodynamic claim on the bottle label. Bottle labeling is reserved for Demeter certified wines only.

SULFITES IN CONTEXT

According to U.C. Davis, the average among all wines in the U.S. (as well as globally) is 80 ppm.

WHAT THE USDA CALLS ORGANIC WINES

Unlike any other nation, the U.S. oddly imposes a no sulfite restriction on wines in order for them to be called Organic Wine. These wines are also called NSA or NAS wines (which stands for "No Sulfites Added" or "No Added Sulfites.")

From the above description, one can see that there are in fact three types of organically grown wines:

1. Organic Wine (less than 15% of all organically grown wine)

2. Made with Organic Grapes

3. Ingredients: Organic Grapes

The vast majority of wines from organic grapes are labeled Made with Organic Grapes, Ingredients: Organic Grapes or are blended with nonorganic grapes and unlabeled.

Fine winemakers do not generally make wine without sulfites and a number of large wine retailers like BevMo do not sell wine in the category of "USDA Organic Wine."

With rare exceptions, this blog does not cover what the USDA calls "Organic Wine."

We are hopeful that the USDA will revise the categorization of organically grown wines and make NSA or NAS wines a category of their own.

This would put the U.S. in accord with the rest of the world, where "Organic Wine" means a wine from certified grapes made within limits on sulfites (generally under 100-150 ppm).

Organic Wines Uncorked

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Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Raise an Organic Glass to Fish Restaurant

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