The Art Of Eating: The Life Of M.F.K. Fisher - FILM ONLINE STREAMING NOW THROUGH FEB. 23

My dear film friend Gary produced this wonderful film. You won't want to miss it!

Reposting this: 

Wonderful news for those who have asked how to see Gregory Bezat’s beautiful documentary, “The Art Of Eating: The Life Of M.F.K. Fisher.”

The @legacyfilmfestivalonaging is currently screening the film via online stream until February 23. The cost is $12 and you also get access to two other short films in the food category for the same price.

Please don’t miss this opportunity!

https://legacyfilmfestivalonaging2025.eventive.org

PS I also recommend a trip to see her house in Glen Ellen. Monthly tours are coming up March 20 and April 26. Details here https://egret.org/event-calendar/

April 26 is a special event! 

"This special tour features M.F.K. Fisher bibliographer Randall Tarpey-Schwed who will give a talk on the life and legacy of Fisher, from her girlhood in Whittier to her final decades in Glen Ellen. Fisher’s daughter, Kennedy Golden, will join in the Q&A after the tour and the talk. Learn about Fisher’s time in the Sonoma Valley, experience her special brand of simple elegance, and soak in the views she enjoyed from every angle. This is a special one-time tour and talk. Other regular tours continue monthly."

Historic Vineyard Society Tasting Set for May 10 at SF's Seaside Fort Mason

It's time to taste history!

One of California's greatest treasures is its old vine vineyards, some dating back more than a century. To qualify for this epic tasting, where many of the California's other great treasure–its dedicated winemakers–pour wines from vines more than 50 years old. 

There is nothing like it in all the world. I wrote about this event last year for WineBusiness.com. (See story here.) 

Selling these wines keeps these old vines in the ground. Otherwise they would be ripped out, as they produce only tiny amounts of grapes. 

And, because they are so proud of their old vines, often the most famous winemakers appear at this tasting. Last year that included Joel Peterson, Carol Shelton, Tegan Passalaqua, and Cathy Corison with her two daughters. 

The 2025 tasting is happening May 10. 

• Mark your calendars
• Buy your tickets. 

More info here.

Listed below are the participants who grow or source from certified organic vines (although not all the vineyards they farm are certified organic).

(Many uncertified participants do not use chemicals as these are a) mostly head trained vines and b) well established.)

VINEYARDS

• Bedrock
• Chalone
• Kronos Vineyard (Corison)
• Monte Rosso Vineyard (Louis M. Martini)

WINERIES

• Amevive
• Bedrock
• Corison
• Ian Brand
• Louis M. Martini (Monte Rosso)
• Martha Stoumen
• Once & Future
• Ridge Vineyards
• Sandlands
• Turley 

Upcoming March 2 James Suckling Tasting to Feature 5 Organic Producers from U.S.

 

U.S. Organic Producers Pouring at the James Suckling Tour

Cathiard Vineyard

Daou

Lingua Franca 

Quintessa 

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 

2022 CDFA Stats Show Central Coast's San Luis Obispo Is Biggest Organic Wine Grape County in State

 

1388.68 cobble creek

472.69french camp

U.S. Top Imports of Organic Sparkling Wine: Prosecco and Cava Top the List

In the U.S. no brand has taken on the affordable, organic sparkling competitors from abroad. 

9,500 Attend EU's Largest Organic Wine Fair | France Has 423,205 Acres of Organic Vines with Revenues of $1.6 Billion

Note: 

• France has 423,205 acres of organic vines, increasing virtually three-fold in a decade.

• California has 21,187.

Millésime BIO Press Release

▪ The thirty-second Millésime BIO, the world’s largest organic wine and alcoholic drinks

exhibition, has closed after three intense days punctuated by tastings and conversations

between producers, marketers and trade buyers.

▪ With 9,500 visits over the three-day event, the Montpellier-based exhibition has been

confirmed as the key marketplace for an industry which continues to grow, but currently faces

a series of major challenges, including pressure on disposable incomes and geopolitical

uncertainties.

▪ Attendance by highly qualified visitors – wine merchants, sommeliers, wholesalers, importers

and specialist buyers – from some fifty countries worldwide, offered reassurance about

international market dynamics, particularly for French exhibitors focusing on export markets.

Read the whole press release here.

GunBun - Sonoma's Largest Organic Producer

Shoutout to Gun-Bun, currently Sonoma’s largest organic vineyard owner (264 acres), and proudly certified Regenerative Organic (ROC) in 2023. They make around 40,000 cases of wine a year.

In ROC world, Gun-Bun achieved certified bronze for Rhinefarm and silver for Rancho Aqua Caliente (Abbot’s Passage) and in 2024 was working on a phasing out tillage and hoping to achieve silver for Rhinefarm and gold for Aqua Caliente.

(About a quarter of the grapes are purchased from local growers, so look for the estate wines for the organic goods.)

Here are the Slow Wine Guide tasting notes for this illustrious producer. Their Gewurz is justly famous – and affordable!

You can buy the Slow Wine Guide 2025 edition now on sale here! Thousands of dollars worth of research - and yet it sells for just $25. The perfect gift for your Valentine. Start planning your next adventures and tastings for the coming year.

Read more about this very accessible, historic winery in this new profile in Sonoma magazine.

(Side note: When Gloria Ferrer gets its final sign off on organic certification, expected any week now, it will become the largest organic vineyard owner in the county).

New at 2025 Premiere Napa Valley: Grgich Hills Estate and Spottswoode Produce Limited Release of Regenerative Organic Cuvee

The Re-Generation Cuvee is composed of equal parts of the finest barrel of Grgich Hills’ Yountville Old Vine blend and a select barrel blend from Spottswoode’s estate vineyards.

NAPA, Calif., (Feb. 5, 2025) - Two renowned, historic, and iconic Napa Valley wineries, Grgich Hills Estate and Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery are pleased to announce a collaboration that combines their expertise to create a remarkable auction lot for Premiere Napa Valley, focusing on both wineries’ rich family legacies and commitment to regenerative practices.

This wine is a celebration for both wineries: 2025 marks 40 years of organic farming and over 50 years of family ownership for Spottswoode, while Grgich Hills marks the release of their 2023 vintage, which is the first Cabernet bearing the newly achieved Regenerative Organic Certification, as well as the centennial of co-founder Miljenko "Mike" Grgich.

In celebration of the various achievements, these prestigious Napa cornerstone wineries felt it a natural fit to create a unique joint offering to commemorate these momentous milestones. For the first time in history, these two famed wineries have come together with the 2023 Re-Generation Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. With only 10 cases produced, this legendary partnership showcases the immense potential of the Valley when two icons become one.

Championed by Ivo Jeramaz (Grgich Hills) and Aron Weinkauf (Spottswoode), Re-Generation is sustainably and organically produced, displaying both producers’ shared vision. The Re-Generation Cuvee is composed of equal parts of the finest barrel of Grgich Hills’ Yountville Old Vine blend and a select barrel blend from Spottswoode’s estate vineyards. This cuvée elegantly represents the wine styles of both houses, marrying Spottswoode’s refined tannins and finesse with Grgich Hills’ complexity and concentration. The result is an extraordinarily balanced, nuanced, and age worthy Cabernet Sauvignon.

“The coming together of our wineries highlights and amplifies the importance of regenerative organic farming practices and showcases that living soils allow us to craft wines with an energy, life and verve that is unmatched, while mitigating climate change,” says Violet Grgich, second generation and President, CEO, and co-owner of Grgich Hills Estate. “With this lot, we hope to inspire meaningful change and bring light to the farming philosophies that both our wineries are so deeply committed to.”

Though each winery has their own unique and storied journey through time, both share the collective purpose of preserving family legacy, making our Earth a better place, and crafting world-class wines that stand among those of the world’s great wine estates.

When it comes to regenerative organic farming, both Grgich Hills and Spottswoode take immense pride in their efforts to extend the longevity of their vines and soil, offering a better pathway for the next generation.

“As Spottswoode also achieved Regenerative Organic Certification in 2023, we felt it was natural to collaborate on this lot, as friends and fellow regenerative farming advocates,” commented second generation President and CEO Beth Weber Novak. “We have come together not only to share our collective love and dedication to regenerative organic farming with the world, but to celebrate the legacies of Mary Novak, who founded Spottswoode in 1982, and Miljenko Grgich, who turned 100 in 2023.”

Friendship was a value deeply cherished by both late founders, and it is in their spirit that two of Napa’s most storied wineries present this stunning lot. In the words of Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich, “Every day, do your best, learn something new, and make a friend!”

For more information on how to secure a piece of this historic collaboration, visit https://premierenapavalley.com/wines/wine-detail?Lot=3623441.

About Grgich Hills Estate:

Since Miljenko Grgich arrived in California in 1958, his dedication to crafting world class wines left an indelible mark on Napa Valley and the world. While some know him as the winemaker of the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that won the Paris Tasting in 1976, more know him as the man who befriended anyone who came to visit Grgich Hills over the last 47 years. Still family owned and operated, his daughter, Violet Grgich, now leads the team in continuing both of these legacies. Grgich Hills Estate upholds the values of its founder, Miljenko “Mike” Grgich: “Every day, do your best, learn something new, and make a friend.” The winery’s mission is to craft world-class wines while building a better future for generations to come. They remain committed to regenerating the earth and fostering peace through friendships. The wines are all grown in the winery’s 100% certified regenerative organic vineyards, and crafted with minimal-intervention winemaking to ensure the flavors of the vineyard and vintage are highlighted in every bottle. For more information about Grgich Hills Estate, please visit https://www.grgich.com/.

About Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery:

After a decade of growing wine grapes at their historic Napa Valley vineyard, the Novak family made its first vintage of Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon in 1982. In the years since, Spottswoode has become one of Napa Valley’s defining wineries. Stewarded by Beth Weber Novak, Spottswoode has stayed true to an elegant, balanced and age-worthy style that captures the character of each vintage and the complexity of the Spottswoode Estate Vineyard. Originally planted in 1882, the Spottswoode Estate Vineyard has been farmed organically since 1985 and has earned acclaim as one of the finest sites for Cabernet Sauvignon in the world. To learn more, visit www.spottswoode.com.

Organically Farmed Merriam Vineyards Celebrates 25 Years in Russian River Valley

Happy to share this press release (below) celebrating a pioneering Russian River Valley winery, farmed organically originally with the help of the late great Amigo Bob. Its estate vines were certified organic back in 2013. It also certified its winery in 2023, which led to its ability to make wines certified (and labeled) Made with Organic Grapes. 

I visited in August to write about them for Slow Wine USA 2025 guide, which is out now. 

Here's the guide listing showing a sample of what's in the rest of the guide, now available for sale online. Buy it here.

Press Release: Quarter-Century Milestone Marked by Special Releases and Enhanced Visitor Experience

by Merriam Vineyards

HEALDSBURG, Calif., (February, 2025) -- Merriam Vineyards, a pioneering force in Russian River Valley's diverse winegrowing landscape, announces the commencement of its 25th anniversary celebration. Founded in 2000 by Peter and Diana Merriam, the winery has evolved from its initial 12-acre purchase into a distinguished estate encompassing three distinct vineyard properties, each expressing the unique terroir of the Russian River Valley AVA.

"When we acquired Windacre Vineyard in 2000, we envisioned creating wines that would honor both the Old-World traditions we loved, and the unique character of the Russian River Valley AVA" reflects Peter Merriam. "Twenty-five years later, that vision has been realized, encompassing not just exceptional wines but a deep commitment to environmental stewardship and an enhanced visitor experience. It has been a great way to walk the walk of appreciating fine wine, by owning and managing very special vineyards."

The anniversary year will feature special commemorative releases, including a limited-edition sparkling Blanc de Noirs, alongside a series of celebratory events throughout 2025. These offerings will showcase the winery's evolution from its origins as a Bordeaux-focused producer, uncommon at the founding, to its current diverse portfolio spanning both Bordeaux and Burgundian varieties.

The milestone coincides with significant achievements in sustainable practices across the estate. The winery recently completed its organic certification process through CCOF, building upon the organic certification of its Los Amigos estate property. The Windacre and Eastside properties maintain rigorous sustainable certifications through CCSW and Sonoma Sustainable programs, with Eastside Estate additionally achieving Fish Friendly Farming certification in 2024.

The anniversary celebration follows the 2023 transformation of the winery's landscape, designed in partnership with Munden Fry Landscape Associates (MFLA). This reimagining created an array of outdoor tasting environments that bring visitors closer to the vineyards and highlight the estate's commitment to environmental stewardship. Features include antique olive trees, garden rooms under shade trees, and a distinctive water wall feature that complements the natural surroundings. Co-proprietor Diana Merriam hails from Greek heritage, and the property's design and aesthetic represent the elegant ease of the Mediterranean lifestyle.

Estate Manager Evan Merriam, representing the next generation of family leadership, emphasizes the forward-looking nature of the anniversary: "While we're celebrating our past achievements, we're equally focused on the future. Our recent initiatives in organic farming, watershed protection, and enhanced visitor experiences set the stage for our next quarter century."

Co-proprietor Peter Merriam adds, "When Diana and I first visited Sonoma County decades ago, we knew that a dream could be realized. I was selling fine European wine to discerning clients in New England and having grown up farming organically with my father in Maine, I wanted to merge two passions, fine wine and organic farming, and we've achieved that at Merriam Vineyards. Now as we look forward to our next goals, we want to reflect on the achievements, my family and team have accomplished."

The winery will announce specific anniversary events and releases throughout the year. For more information about Merriam Vineyards' 25th anniversary celebration, visit www.merriamvineyards.com or follow on Instagram @merriamvineyards.

About Merriam Vineyards:

Established in 2000 in Sonoma, CA's Russian River AVA by husband-and-wife Peter and Diana Merriam, Merriam Vineyards specializes in Bordeaux and Burgundy varieties and was born from the couple's love of Old-World wines and extensive European travels. Recognizing the immense potential for producing distinctive single-vineyard wines in Sonoma, the Merriam's acquired what would become known as the Windacre Vineyard in 2000, adding Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec plantings beyond its existing Merlot vines and establishing the quality of Bordeaux varieties in a region primarily known for cool-climate wines. The couple expanded its estate into Burgundian varieties with the acquisition of its Los Amigos property in 2009 and in 2022, purchased the hillside Eastside Estate, with a focus on core col-climate Pinot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The winery's rigorous, decades-long commitment to sustainable viticulture and production resulted in the prestigious CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) certification for its Los Amigos estate (2012) and winery (2023), as well as CCSW (Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing) certification for its Windacre property and Sonoma Sustainable for its Eastside Estate. Son Evan Merriam represents the Merriam's next generation as estate manager.

merriamvineyards.com

Two Day Immersion Class in Regen Vit and Simonit & Sirch Pruning Coming Up at the Scenic Paicines Ranch Feb. 20-21

Just 45 minutes south of San Jose, Hollister is increasingly populated by more than farmworkers these days. Nearby is the "green basket," with a high concentration of organic greens producers, gated communities of retirees and others willing to pay $700k for a new home in modern, dense, suburban developments. The city (population 40,000), is looking to approve more than 4,000 new homes by 2031. 

But drive a little further south of Hollister and you're soon in another time and place. The tiny hamlet of Paicines, about 10 miles south of the bustling town, makes you feel like you are lost in a deeply rural part of California. Near the Gabilan Mountains, San Benito County is still home to some of the oldest vines in the U.S.–Enz and Derose vineyards come to mind right away. 

Mike Kohne and helper at Crave Wine Bar in Hollister recently 
hosted a 50th anniversary celebration of Calera wines 

Burgundy hound, famed Calera founder (the late) Josh Jensen lay claim to the region's coveted limestone when he bought land nearby, founding Calera on a former limekiln site. The winery began celebrating its 50th anniversary this year in the under the radar Crave Wine Bar in Hollister, a casual spot with an impressive array of fine wines.    

And for those of you attentive enough to notice, the Drops of God series on Apple TV, which recently won the International Emmy for Drama, features only one American wine–a Sandlands Mataro (Mourvedre) wine from sandy soils of San Benito County. 

(Note: Hey would be viewers - watch the series! I bypassed it early on thinking it was too much somm, but it turns out my initial impression was wrong, wrong, wrong and I'm not ashamed to admit that. It turns out to be a compelling family, character driven drama and you really do not need to know anything about wine to become drawn in. And happily a season 2 is on the way.)

Paicines Ranch

Once upon a time, Paicines Ranch was the largest vineyard in the state, owned by Mirassou. Before 2004, it was to be developed for a large housing enclave. But the county decided against its development, and a Silicon Valley entrepreneur, Sallie Calhoun with her husband Matt, bought it, preserving it as a model farm for cattle ranching, sheep grazing, and growing crops. After Sallie read Allan Savory's book on holistic management (integrating sheep), she converted the ranch to these practices and became an evangelist for holistic management.

In addition to the grazing, the team at Paicines currently has 550 acres of row crops and 25 acres of vines. It also sells its pastured beef, pigs, lamb and poultry (which you can order online). Read more about its fascinating history here: https://paicinesranch.com/ranch-history-families/

More on the history of the ranch under Sallie's management: https://thesustainablesweetandsavorygourmet.wordpress.com/2012/05/15/welcome-to-paicines-ranch-paicines-ca/

As many vineyards, particularly in Mendocino County, were developed from former grazing land, it's exciting to rethink that paradigm and question whether integrated sheep grazing and wine grape growing could be a smarter choice. Shannon in Lake County is also a pioneer in this field, although it uses a more traditional trellis system. It has sufficient land to graze its 900 sheep flock year round. 

PAICINES RANCH LEARNING

The ranch is a beacon for educating growers and farmers on why and how to implement no till vineyard management and offers a popular, two day regenerative viticulture class that typically sells out. 

The next class is coming up is a two day immersion in regenerative vit including a half-day workshop on regenerative vine pruning techniques led by Simonit & Sirch.

I visited the ranch last week after attending the organic farming conference, EcoFarm. just to get a preview of the place before I return for the Feb. 20-21 class. I came home with great memories from a fine dining experience, plus a hefty bag full of pastured meat (maybe a year's supply for a person like me) that I will certainly enjoy drinking with red wines from my cellar. I also got excited about the upcoming regen vit class, set on this majestic 5,600+ acre site. 

Get the picture of the course here: https://paicineslearning.org/events/viticulture-immersion-25/

 

Who should attend? 

According to the website, "This immersion is designed for winegrape growers, wine producers, wine merchants, graziers, vineyard managers, students, educators, and anyone who have a passion for growing ecosystem health."

A unique aspect of the course is teacher Kelly Mulville's sheep integration approach. As the website says, "The vineyard at Paicines Ranch is a uniquely designed polyculture with a partial overhead trellis system that allows for grazing of the vines throughout the year. This eliminates the need for tillage, mowing, herbicides, suckering, hand weeding and encourages high biodiversity of plants, insects, birds and soil biology."

There are very few places in the world and in the U.S. for regen vit education. Come find out what it's all about!

OTHER WAYS TO ENJOY THE RANCH

A recent dinner at the Overlook dining room was sold out. That's Sallie, with the big smile. 

Paicines offers lodging, special events and hosts weddings and more. It's a great place for a family reunion, or just to bring kids. Casual cabins and rooms are available to rent. They have yoga onsite. Sallie has built a wonderful dining hall, and has a great chef and culinary team. Here's the menu from a recent event I attended last week.

A trip to Paicines will renew your faith that doing the right thing–farming regeneratively–is worth doing. Feast your eyes on those magnificent mountains and spacious skies and...relax.

This just in: Paicines is participating in the Cowboy Corridor. Read more about that here!

Monterey County: Morgan Winery's Double L Vineyard

Donna Lee and her daughter pouring at the DTC Wine Symposium in Monterey 

Monterey County's organic producers are few and far between so it was a total pleasure to attend the opening day tasting at the Direct to Consumer Wine Symposium in Monterey Jan. 21 and surprise! See that of the few wineries pouring, Morgan Winery was one. 

It was the first time the event has been held in this location (and my first time attending it). So happy to taste (after many years of not tasting) Morgan's wines from their Double L Vineyard, the only organic vines in Santa Lucia Highlands AVA in Monterey County. 

The wines were simply stunning. 

The founders became organic because they didn't want their children to be exposed to anything toxic in their vineyards. Bravo. They also bottle label them "made with organic grapes" on the back. Bravo #2.

This is how it's done:

You can taste the wines at their Carmel tasting room, open 11 - 6 daily on Crosswoads Boulevard in Carmel.

Upcoming Unified Session: Exploring the Regenerative Ag Toolbox for Viticulture

For the first time, the grapegrowing track at Unified Wine & Grape Symposium this year features two prominent organic wine growers: Greg Pennyroyal of Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula and Hillary Graves of Booker Vineyard in Paso Robles. 

The session takes place Jan. 28 from 2 to 3:30 pm. 

Pennyroyal's biography on the site reads: 

"He is following a family tradition of medicinal plant farming from his mother, a traditionally trained herbalist in Norway, to his current position as Vineyard Manager of Wilson Creek Winery and Professor of Viticulture at Mount San Jacinto College in Temecula. He is the founder of the Small Winegrowers Association and is developing a regenerative curriculum at Mt San Jacinto College.

Previous experience as manager of Trout Lake Farm, medicinal herb farm, Director of Botanical Research at Leiner Health, a researcher with the National Institutes of Health, 10 years on the United States Pharmacopeial Convention Board developing medicinal plant standards and work with the Global Institute for Tibetan Medicine has reinforced an evolving respect for the power of science coupled with the wisdom of nature in allowing a positive future that wants to emerge."

I, too, studied Tibetan medicine (in Dharamsala, in 1995, staying at Kashmir Cottage, a guest house owned by the Dalai Lama's family and run by his brother, who is also a rinpoche. Richard Gere and I shared a bathroom there. Good karma!) and look forward to meeting Greg and hearing how all these worlds intersect. 

Hillary's bio reads: 

"Hilary graduated from high school in Hawaii and studied business at CSU Fresno. While her father hailed from a Central Valley farming family, she never planned to pursue agriculture—but, in time, her true calling came clear. After earning a master’s degree in library and information science, she returned to CSU Fresno to serve as the academic librarian in the university’s Viticulture and Enology Research Center. It was here that Hilary’s interest in viticulture was awakened, prompting her to pursue master’s studies in Crop Science and ultimately a career in wine and viticulture.

 After studying Crop Science at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Hilary taught viticulture at Cal Poly for four years under Dr. Keith Patterson. She also started her own business in 2002, planting a vineyard and making wine under the Mighty Nimble brand. She later started a vineyard management company and grew fruit for, among others, Booker Vineyard’s Farmer- Winemaker Eric Jensen. Hilary and Eric formed a strong connection, and she ultimately joined Booker Vineyard as Vineyard & Grower Relations Manager in 2020."

Galloni's Top 100 Features Five Wines From U.S. Organic Vines

 #13: 2021 DuMOL Pinot Noir MacIntyre

#18: 2021 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Tablas

#20: 2021 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs

#33: 2021 Cornell Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

#60: 2021 Denner Vineyards The Dirt Worshipper

Central Coast Veteran Winemaker Alisa Jacobson Launches First Organically Grown "Alcohol Removed" Wine

 

Alisa Jacobson, a veteran winemaker working on the Central Coast, is releasing her first "alcohol removed" wine from certified organic grapes. Is this an industry first? I think so.

Jacobson worked for 18 years at Joel Gott before setting out on her own at Turning Tide. Bait + Switch is her latest venture.  

Her first varietal under the Bait + Switch label is this Sauvignon Blanc. I'm excited to try it at Unified in a few weeks. 

Wines like these will be featured at an upcoming panel at Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in Sacramento. The No and Low-Alcohol Winemaking: Market Insights, Chemical Dynamics, and Industry Perspectives (includes tasting) session will be held Jan. 28 at 2 pm. 

The panel features a list of all stars from Delicate and Gallo, among other labels.

(Stay tuned for further developments. I will be reporting about this session for Grape and Wine magazine.)

First Time Unified Has an Organic Keynoter! Unified to Feature Alecia Moore (AKA PINK), Winemaker and Two Wolves Wine Founder

In case you hadn't heard, I believe this is the first time Unified has featured an organic vintner for its keynote speaker!

SACRAMENTO, CA – January 8, 2025 – The Unified Wine and Grape Symposium is proud to welcome Alecia Moore, winemaker and founder of Two Wolves Wine, as the keynote luncheon speaker to kick off the 2025 show on Tuesday, January 28. Known globally for her multifaceted career, Moore will bring her passion for grape growing and winemaking to center stage in a live, talk-show-style interview with Ray Isle, author and Executive Wine Editor at Food & Wine. This engaging discussion will explore Moore’s journey that led her to wine, and the passion that fuels her unique approach to her brand.

“This keynote continues the Symposium’s tradition of bringing diverse and influential voices to the wine community, aiming to inspire attendees with new ways of thinking,” said Natalie Collins, president of the California Association of Winegrape Growers and Unified Symposium LLC Managing Committee member. “In a time marked by industry challenges, a fresh perspective and renewed inspiration can help us see new possibilities—and Moore’s story promises to do just that.”

After immersing herself in winemaking courses and visiting various wine regions, Moore took a bold step in 2013 by purchasing a vineyard in Santa Barbara County, California’s Central Coast. This pivotal moment marked the birth of Two Wolves Wine. For the past decade, she has overseen the entire winemaking process, from cultivating organic grapes to handcrafting small-batch wines. Each bottle produced embodies her dedication to quality, her profound respect for nature, and a bold expressive character, reminiscent of her own creative spirit.

Registration for the Unified Symposium is available at:

www.unifiedsymposium.org/register. The Keynote Luncheon is priced separately and includes a plated lunch and wine. To register for the luncheon, you must be a CAWG member, ASEV member, or an exhibitor. Early registration is encouraged as limited seating is available. The 2025 Unified Wine & Grape Symposium will be held January 28-30, with exhibits open on January 29 and 30, at the SAFE Credit Union Convention Center in Sacramento, California.

Built with the joint input of growers, vintners, and allied industry members, Unified has served as a clearinghouse of information important to wine and grape industry professionals for more than 30 years. Unified also hosts the industry’s largest trade show of its kind, with more than 650 vendors displaying their products and services in over 875 booths. For more information, please visit www.unifiedsymposium.org.

SLO Coast's First Certified Biodynamic Vineyard! Gina and Mike Giugni's Vineyard (formerly Bassi) Is Now Officially Demeter Certified "Sunny Spot Vineyards"

At the end of August, Gina and Mikey Guigni’s 32 acre vineyard on the SLO Coast became Demeter certified, making it the first vineyard in the SLO Coast AVA to be officially biodynamic.

A second generation winegrower and winemaker, Gina is the daughter of Frank and Teena Hildebrand, who started their 14 acre Narrow Gate Vineyards in the El Dorado AVA (part of the broader Sierra Foothills AVA), certifying the vines biodynamic in 2010. They were friends of the family that started AmByth Estate, a natural wine winery (certified biodynamic) in Paso Robles. At AmByth, wine growing and winemaking is now in the hands of the second generation Gelert Hart, son of founder Philipp Hart.

Gina set out on her own, moving to the Central Coast and farming the Chene Vineyard (then certified biodynamic; it’s since changed hands) in Edna Valley and buying grapes for her own brand Lady of the Sunshine where she makes 1,500 cases of natural wine. She was featured as a SNAIL winery in Slow Wine Guide in 2024.

Mikey and Gina together are the driving forces behind Scar of the Sea, the label Mikey started in 2012.

Scar of the Sea’s SLO Coast Bassi Vineyard Pinot Gris & Pinot Noir Co-Ferment 2022 (168 cases; $36) won a top wine award from Slow Wine in 2024. Gina’s Edna Valley Chene Vineyard Chardonnay 2022, 150 cases; $46 won a Slow Wine award in the 2024 guide.

The Vineyard

Formerly it was called the Bassi Vineyard, and was owned by Mike Sinor, a Central Coast stalwart who sold the grapes to many local wineries. It’s located near Avila Beach. Mikey formerly bought grapes here.

The couple have big plans for the vineyard, which they purchased in June, planning to use almost all of the grapes for their own brands.

Currently the site grows Albarino, Chardonnay, Grenache, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Syrah.

Said Gina, “We are replanting 7 acres this spring to include Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Pink Chardonnay, Nero d'Avola and Frappato. We'll keep all of this for our production.”

A big step forward!

Both brands have wine clubs and struck a chord with wine lovers, especially in LA.

Bravo for planting these varieties and for carrying the best farming practices forward - right on the coast.

NOTE: To keep up to date on biodynamic wine topics, subscribe to bdwine.substack.com.

Author Picks - Best of Wine Journalism in 2024

Most of the time, I don't write for this blog–I write articles for wine business industry publications. I thought you might be interested to know that links to all the articles I write for WineBusiness.com, Wine Business Monthly and Grape and Wine magazine are all available on my professional website at www.winecountrygeographic.com. 

When new articles post, they are also sent free to subscribers to my substack newsletter (one of many) at https://pamstrayer.substack.com (which I am honored to say I started after Andrea Robinson asked me how to subscribe to them).

Here's my take on the year that was.

2024 was tumultuous year. 

The wine industry is in the grip of a big learning curve this year. Often a victim of inertia, the industry got more wake up calls this year that markets really are conversations, and that they may be relying too much on what worked in the past. Smart folks in the industry are hard at work studying what works and trying to spring into action, despite uncertainty.

I was deeply impressed by how some wineries are responding–getting engaged with TikTok and, for a few, offering fine wine in bag in box formats which is proving to be very popular with consumers though less so with retailer gatekeepers.

In addition, some really impressive studies came out, including several on regenerative wine grape growing, a field now supercharged thanks to Agrology which collects and then analyzes data on soil respiration, enhancing our deeper view of biological systems within the soil. 

Read the Top 10 list – here.

California's Premier Organic Farming Event Coming Up: Ecofarm Is January 22-25, 2025

Every year at Asilomar in the lovely town of Pacific Grove on the Central Coast, Ecofarm, the greatest gathering of organic farmers in the U.S., takes place. 

Founded by organic pioneer Amigo Bob, the conference features speakers who are some of the truly great talents and embraces community. They're all trying to turn the Queen Mary of modern agriculture toward more sustainability, health and resilience by way of organic farming. 

California has nearly 3,000 certified organic farms, representing 21 percent of all U.S. certified organic land. A new report on the state's organic farming community is due out from U.C. Davis in the next month or two.

In the past, I've enjoyed lectures from Amigo himself (sadly he is no longer with us), Pam Marrone (the internally acclaimed expert on biopesticides and a great person to follow on LinkedIn as her feed is full of goodies), and Kelly Mullville of Paicines Ranch on the stage with the hilarious Nathan Stuart, formerly the shepherd at Tablas Creek Vineyards. (Nathan should have been a professional stand up comedian. You can get a taste of his irreverent, down to earth approach by watching some old Tablas videos on YouTube where he teams up with their winemaker Chelsea.)

2025 LINEUP : ALTIERI, NABHAN, CDFA on REGENERATIVE, and MORE

This year's lineup is made of equally famous stars and promises a lot of knowledge and good times.  This year features: 

• Agroecology founder and former U.C. professor Miguel Altieri
• ROA and CDFA staff on state policy issues on definitions of the word "regenerative" and the sustainable pest management roadmap
• MacArthur fellow Gary Nabhan and his new book on immigrants 
• The one and only organic wine tasting party (certified grapes only)
• Bee and pesticide expert Susan Kegley (former chief scientist for Pesticide Action Network and bee protector)
• And more

OPENING NIGHT KEYNOTE

Big name keynoters include the agroecology leader Miguel Altieri (officially Emeritus, University of California, Berkeley) the man who founded the field of agroecology. He has worked for the Pope and with Prince Charles on large scale ecological agriculture projects. He did several significant studies on vineyards when he was at Cal. (I audited his Berkeley class one year when Houston Wilson was his teaching assistant).

Altieri will also lead a workshop called "Diversifying Plants and Soil Microbes Fosters Pest Control" on Thursday. 

(Wilson now heads the UC Organic Agriculture Institute and sits on the CDFA's sustainable pest management group.)

THURSDAY AM WORKSHOPS: CDFA's Definition of Regenerative and a Session on Sustainable Pest Management (SPM) 

CDFA has been attempting to define the word "regenerative." An Ecofarm panel on this developnent includes Elizabeth Whitlow, well known to many for her role as founding director of the Regenerative Organic Alliance, a role that the late Paul Dolan recruited her for.

DPR's Julie Henderson, who headed the SPM committee, will be speaking at one of the workshops this year on the state's attempt to steer agriculture, long term, toward using less toxic chemicals and spurring development of alternatives. (See story here for background). 

THURSDAY AFTERNOON KEYNOTE: Gary Nabhan on the Creative Value of Immigrants 

A man of the desert known for his ethnobotanical expertise, agave appreciation and a professor at the University of Arizona, this original thinker (and author of 26 books) has turned his attention to immigration issues–timely as Trump assumes office that week. Nabhan is a MacArthur Fellow and James Beard award winning author. 

"The key themes of the new book, Against the American Grain, are that innovation usually emerges from the margins of our society, that bilingual and multicultural individuals generate problem-solving strategies that spill out from rural areas to enrich all of America, and that multi-cultural collaborations have enriched American landscapes and protected the poor and marginalized in innumerable ways.

With a farm workforce that now includes climate refugees from more than a dozen desert countries, we should anticipate another wave of resistance and innovation. Speaking as an orchard-keeper, agave and spice-grower, and rural community development organizer with a half century of experience, Nabhan will inspire more direct action from multicultural alliances that will leave no farmer, farmworker or food service worker behind."

Yes, it sounds political, but isn't that what the next year looks like? How will food survive without these immigrant workers? How will farms prosper? The coming clash seems like a crisis filled work in progress that could be illuminated with Nabhan's insights. (Although I would question who are the resisters?...Think of the Bear Flag Revolt. California was once Mexican.)

THURSDAY PM WORKSHOPS: ALTIERI ON BIODIVERSITY AND PEST CONTROL

Altieri is on a two person panel for the workshop "Diversifying Plants and Soil Microbes Fosters Pest Control," which address pest control through a natural balance of predators and beneficials. 

THURSDAY NIGHT: ORGANIC WINE TASTING PARTY

The one and only tasting each year of wines from certified organic vines is a crowd pleaser for this gang, year in and year out. 

FRIDAY PM WORKSHOPS: Microbes with U.C.'s Tim Bowles, Pollinators with Susan Kegley

Bees are on the agenda with rock star pesticide researchers and bee champion, Susan Kegley, formerly the senior scientist for Pesticide Action Network and an evangelist for bees. She's the director of Pesticide Research Institute and runs her own farm, Bees n Blooms Organic Flower Farm, in Santa Rosa.

There's much more to enjoy at the event. Learn more at the eco-farm.org website. 

Santa Cruz Mountains' Organic Icon Prudy Foxx Featured on Local TV!

One of my favorite organic vineyard managers, Prudy Foxx, is featured on local TV thanks to Monique Soltani and her Wine Oh! tv show. Prudy tends the vines at so many famous Santa Cruz Mountain wineries, many of which are featured in Slow Wine Guide, 

Take this quickie tour with Prudy and Monique in the mountains. 

58 Percent of Younger and Multicultural Consumers Prefer Organic, Major New Wine Market Council Study Reports

One of the most spectacular market research studies of the year, in my humble opinion, was How to Better Engage Young Adults and Multicultural Consumers with Wine, by the Wine Market Council in conjunction with Ethnifacts, a Texas-based firm specializing in demographic market research, including multi cultural consumers.

I wish I could share the full study here with you–but I can't since it's for members only–but I highly recommend joining the Wine Market Council to see the full study. (Minimum dues are between $400 and $1,000.)

I have written an article for Grape and Wine magazine's next issue (coming in February) that shares some of the highlights. 

Though the study did not focus on organics, one slide showed a clear preference among 20- and 30-somethings (the only group studied) for family owned, small producers who are sustainable and organic. That preference applies across all the ethnic groups studied. The study surveyed 1,800 wine consumers. 

Let's hope the industry is listening.

What You Read: Top Ten Posts in 2024

It's always interesting to see what posts readers read most in a given year. I just tallied up what posts got the most page views and here are the results. (Posts must have been written in 2024 to be on this list.)

THEMES

¨• Event tastings
That includes a Cal-Italian tasting in Healdsburg that included a (very) few U.S. producers with certified organic vines and a Rhone Rangers event in Sonoma (on one of the hottest days of the year) 

• Breakthroughs for the organic sector

A U.S. first–Tablas Creek's organically grown estate wine in a box (all their other previous boxed wines, i.e. Patelin, were not organically grown but will be in the future), U.S. organic wine trade group formed a wine council within the Organic Trade Association, and news from Slow Wine in Italy, that Chianti Classico now 50 percent organic. Another story was about organic acreage totals for the state, Napa and Sonoma–the first time I have ever gotten this info from CCOF (in 13 years of writing about organic vines). And Curtis Mann, the influential MW who heads up Safeway and Albertsons' wine sales, says organically grown wine needs to be more clearly labeled for consumers to know what they are buying.

• Studies showing organic farming is more resilient and produces better quality wine
Napa Green forum (with various North Coast producers), O'Neill's regenerative organic study at Robert Hall and reports from Sonoma and Napa growers that organic is cost-effective.

Rankings by Page View Order

• Festa Italia in Healdsburg Celebrates California Cool Kids' Growing Italian Side: It's All About Pleasure 

This is a community that has yet to embrace being certified organic, but two stars are – DaVero and Preston Farm and Winery – and their wines were standouts. 

• Exceptional Wines from the Rhone Rangers Tasting in Sonoma 

Organic and biodynamic producers are among the top tier when it comes to making Rhone varieties.

• Economics of Organic Definitely Pencil Out, Say Major Producers at Napa Green Event in Rutherford 

Quintessa, Gloria Ferrer and Grgich Hills report on lower farming costs, longer lasting vines, and higher quality from organic grape growing. 

• Organic Vintners Form New Organic Trade Association Wine Council, Seek to Harmonize with Global Organic Wine Standards 

Bonterra's Joseph Brinkley moves back to D.C. to head new lobbying presence for organic vintners. 

• Where Are California's Organic Vines? CCOF Stats Shows 4 Percent of State's Wine Grape Vines are Organic–A Quarter Are in Napa 

While organic wine grape acreage in the U.S. has doubled since 2016, to 23,187 acres, one region, Napa, has about a quarter of those vines. In contrast, Spain, Italy and France have about 18 percent organic–and it's growing. 

• News from Slow Wine Fair 2024: "Chianti Classico Now More Than 50 Percent Organic" 

FederBio's president, Maria Grazia Mammuccini reports that the majority are organic and therefore more resilient, since they have designs "an agronomic strategy to create a ‘vineyard system’ capable of responding to climatic shocks."

• Wine Spectator Top 100 Features 7 Wines from Slow Wine Guide | Including 4 U.S. Wines from Organic Vines

Bethel Heights, Calera, Burgess and Stag's Leap Wine Cellars took home top honors. 

• Can Regenerative Organic Farming Pencil Out? Study Provides State-of-the-Art Data and Demonstrates Dramatic Improvements in Wine Quality and Yields 

In what I think may be the most valuable study of the year,  Caine Thompson of O'Neill Vintners shared valuable data on resilient farming with peers and the public.

• Economics of Organic, Part 2: Deep Dive on Organic Vineyard Costs from High End Vineyard Management Company

Turns out crimping is cheaper than mowing, according to Sonoma's leading organic vineyard management company, Enterprise Vineyards. Plus, more tips in their full presentation (link in story). 

• Do Organically Grown Wines Need to be Labeled? Safeway's MW Says Consumers Want That | Yet 71 Percent of U.S. Wines from Organic Vines Do Not Label Organic on the Bottle (When They Legally Could)

My own data, compiled but not published for Vivino several years ago, showed that only 71 out of 1,654 qualifying wines labeled their bottles "ingredients: organic grapes," though they legally could. The label can appear on the back of the bottle. 

Expanding Choices for Organically Grown Sparkling Wines for Every Occasion and Budget

It's the time of the year for sparkling. If you're not a Champagne purist, see what California has to offer. Here are some of my fun favorites when it comes to sparkling wine from organic vines. 

But the best thing about sparkling is that it's so versatile, so even if you don't get these wines in time for New Year's Eve, they will be great with food throughout the year. 

As Mark Garaventa of Rack & Riddle told an industry audience at Unified last year, 1 in 7 bottles of wine sold today are sparkling wines.

Note: All of the wines listed here (except for pet nats and Cricket Farms) are made in the traditional method. 

Want to view this map in Google maps? Click here. 

1. A PERENNIAL FAVE | McFadden Vineyards, Mendocino | $35

I have enjoyed these wines for more than a decade, blogging about them here for at least that long. I think one year I bought seven cases. Then they were not produced for a few years, as the Pinot grapes went elsewhere, but now they are back and I see no reason not to stock up. 

Affordable and eco friendly, McFadden does everything right, helping its vineyard crew workers with year round jobs (in wreath making and its organic herb business) and making some very fine wine. Alas their tasting room in Hopland is no longer open, but you can just order the wine online. Very convenient. You need at least a bottle a month for special occasions, right? 

Here's the link to their two sparklings–a brut and a brut rosé.

2. HISTORIC RED SPARKLING? | Under the Wire, Sonoma Valley | $52

The famous Bedrock vineyard, a scion of Sonoma Valley history, is unique in so many ways. One, because it's a single vineyard sparkling from 1888 vines. Two, because it's a sparkling red. Three, because it's made from Zinfandel and echoes back to the historic Eclipse sparkling wine early Sonoma pioneers made. Some was then grown in Yolo County and made in downtown SF. 

If you want to geek out over the history, read the amazing, wonderful book A Toast to Eclipse: Arpad Haraszthy and the Sparkling Wine of Old San Francisco, which chronicles the fascinating journey.

Under the Wine has done a great lovely job of preserving this tradition. Amazingly it is one of their most popular wines. Their estate vineyard was certified organic in 2024, and is now on the path to regenerative organic certification. 

On its website, it states: 

"When we talk about the history of California sparkling wine and Zinfandel's importance to that story, the look of confusion we get from most people is reminiscent of when we first talked about making single vineyard sparkling wine in California to begin with. But it is true: the history of sparkling wine in California is linked to Zinfandel. 

In the 1860s, the first widely heralded sparkling wine was made by Arpad Haraszthy. Named “Eclipse,” it was based around Zinfandel, which was picked early for acid, along with several other varieties. 

Despite the variety's reputation for making large-scale, higher octane wines, Zinfandel is actually a high acid variety in many sites when picked at the lower sugars required for sparkling wine. 

The fruit is sourced from a block of 1888 plantings at Bedrock Vineyard and, like Haraszthy’s “Eclipse,” Zinfandel is the dominant grape, along with Grenache, Mataro, and many other varieties field-blended in.

 

The wine captures Bedrock Vineyard and the boisterous generosity of Zinfandel beautifully. 

The wine is briefly soaked on its skins to bring out more of the vineyard's personality but then very gently pressed. 

The result is a mouthwatering combination of cherry and purple raspberry fruit with an added complexity reminiscent of orange bitters and anise. Nothing is more fun than tasting this wine next to a Bedrock red from the vineyard. 

A truly unique California sparkling wine, this has become one of our most requested wines we make."

The winery offers tastings along with caviar pairings at their lovely tasting room in downtown Sonoma in the historic General Joseph Hooker House. Caviar and potato chip pairings available. 

Listen up on their podcast to hear winemakers Chris Cottrell & Morgan Twain-Peterson MW talk about the wine. (They discuss this wine at 41:00 into the episode.) 

3. PERFECT WAY TO ENTERTAIN HOLIDAY GUESTS: Amista Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley | $50-75

Organically certified inn 2024, Amista Vineyards has started to release a wide variety of unusual sparkling wines, based on everything from the traditional Chardonnay to the Rhone trio of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. The sparkling Syrah is their first Brut Nature. (They also have still wines). 

I wrote about visiting them this summer in a post titled Are These the Craziest Sparkling Wine Ever? 

This is also a very fun winery to visit and a great place to take any visiting wine newbies here for the holidays. No snobs allowed. Vineyard views. And they serve free, herbed popcorn to pair with the wine. Or you can get caviar and local creme freche for $35 (plus tasting fee). They have bottle service as well, offer picknicking (plus cheese and charcuterie for a fee), and you can enjoy vineyard and walking tours that showcase their riparian restoration project along the adjacent creek. 

4. PASO ROBLES' FIRST ROC SPARKLING WINE | Robert Hall Winery 2021 Sparkling Grenache Blanc | $50

Robert Hall has just been certified regenerative organic and celebrated with the release of bubbles.  You can read more about this winery's incredible field trials comparing conventional to regenerative organic vines in my recent article for Grape and Wine here. 

Celebrate this remarkable and insightful trial here with their Sparkling Grenache Blanc. 

5. OREGON PET NAT | Johan Vineyards Pet Nat of Pinot Noir or Melon de Bourgogne | $32 

Biodynamically farmed Johan in the Van Duzer Corridor in Willamette Valley has been making pet nats from lesser known varieties for quite awhile. Enjoy its pet nat of Pinot Noir or delicate Melon de Bourgogne for a refreshing fizz. 

In southern Oregon, Troon has a biodynamic pet nat from Tannat ($40). 

Of course, there are some amazing Oregon traditional method sparklers on the market, but I cannot think of an organic one right now. If you have something to recommend, reach out to me on Linkedin.com 

6. LAKE COUNTY GOODNESS | Cricket Farms (Shannon) Brut and Brut Rosé | $35

Shannon Family of Wines in Lake County has made a unique Cricket Farms brut rosé using Mourvedre and Zinfandel. Its regular brut is more traditional - made with Chardonnay from Long Valley. Both are made via the charmat method. 

They are all certified wines (by law, using less than 100 ppm of sulfites) and labeled "Made with Organic Grapes."

7. ANDERSON VALLEY'S SPARKLING WINES | Handley Cellars, Anderson Valley, Blanc de Blanc | $60 and Long Meadow Ranch's Brut (2) | $85-125

A classic from Northern California's organic pioneer, Handley Cellars' sparkling wine has earned a reputation for elegance. Like its predecessors, the 2019 is all estate grown. 

Likewise, the newer entrant, Long Meadow Ranch brut wines, crafted by the skilled Stéphane Vivier, have much to offer. There's a 2018 Blanc de Noirs and a 2018 Brut Rosé,

8. LODI'S SPANISH WONDER | Bokisch Vineyards, Lodi | $38

While Bokisch Vineyards has planted the traditional Spanish sparkling wine grapes in its vineyards, it is still waiting to release wine from the grapes that make Cava. But instead, for now, it offers two sparkling wines–one from Albarino and one from Graciano. 

9. GRAND DAME GOES ORGANIC | Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvee Rosé 2021 | $68

Here's the only all sparkling wine producer in the line up– Freixnet owned Gloria Ferrer has just become certified organic, thanks to four years of work by vineyard director Brad Kurtz and crew. 

Kyle Altomare joined as director of winemaking in 2024, coming from the famous Spanish Raventos Codorniu. The two starred in a recent podcast (here), talking about how organic farming has really raised the level of the wine quality at their 331 acre organic vineyard in Sonoma's Carneros.

The winery is owned by famed Cava producer Freixnet. You can learn more in their newly launched three masterclass videos with Kurtz and Altomare on YouTube. (Masterclass #3 dives into the organic transition.)

A big plus in visiting the winery is the wide selection of food available for purchase, which visitors can enjoy inside the tasting room or outside on the deck with panoramic views of the Carneros. The tapas menu (a la carte) includes:

• Snacks (marinated olives, pistachios, roasted almonds)
• Reserve tapas (Gambas al Ajio, ham and cheese croquette, patatas bravas, manchego and Iberico, garlic roasted mushrooms, Bilboa chorizo, empanadas)
• Shareable plates (crudite, seafood platter, caviar, charcuterie)
• Desserts (churros, a desert platter and olive oil cake)

10. CAVA GOES ORGANIC AT REGION SCALE | The More The Merrier 

Good news for CAVA lovers: 

"From 2025 onwards, all Spanish based from Penedes, Cava de Guarda Superior wines (which include Reserva, Gran Reserva, and Cava de Paraje Calificado) must be made from 100% organically grown grapes. 

This is a significant move toward environmental responsibility and reinforces Cava’s dedication to producing wines that are both high in quality and low in environmental impact."

In a Dec. 4 press release, Javier Pagés, president of the DO Cava Regulatory Board, stressed that the move to 100% organic viticulture would help Cava to stand out in one of its most important markets.

“This bold step also strengthens Cava’s positioning in the competitive U.S. sparkling wine market, where it is poised to captivate wine lovers with its heritage, quality, and commitment to organic viticulture,” he said.

The United States is the second-largest market for Cava outside of the EU. And a three-year promotional campaign is underway to win over more American consumers and make them choose Cava over other sparkling rivals such as Prosecco or Champagne.

“DO Cava is executing an extensive three-year campaign in the US, supported by EU grants,” revealed Pages. “This campaign aims to elevate the presence and appreciation of Cava de Guarda Superior among American consumers and professionals.” 

DO Penedes has 2,000 wine growers and 150 wineries. 

With many Cava wines priced just above $10, the move is sure to continue to spark interest in the market and drive Cava sales here in the U.S. 

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So - take your pick. Support artisanal, boutique U.S. producers who offer wines at a wide variety of price points and quality levels, or indulge in affordable Cava imports at everyday prices. Whichever way you look at it, sparkling wine from organic vines are on the rise. 

Paso Robles' Organic Fine Wine Wave: Big Companies–Treasury Wine Estate, Gallo, Riboli and O'Neill–All Buying Wineries with Certified Organic Vines

Something interesting is happening on California's Central Coast, and it seems to be passing under the radar of a lot of folks. We know that Big Wine companies are buying in the Paso region, a place where tourism and winemaking are "more affordable," which means less than in Napa or Sonoma or Sta. Rita Hills. (Proximity to rich consumers in big cities with high paying industries is a plus for those regions).

I recently visited this fall and found no $100+ tasting fees, but plenty of value prices ($25-$35) for tastings, though wine prices were not similarly value priced for the average wine lover, at $60-75+ for a nice estate red. 

Those tasting fees get people in the door. And then they buy. 

As Jason Haas of Tablas Creek pointed out in a 2023 blog post, only 15 percent of their customers pay the $25 tasting fee, as they either joined the wine club or bought two bottles of wine on their visit.

WHAT'S NEW: BIG WINE AND ORGANIC – BUT ONLY IN PASO

But here's what I noticed on my recent trip that I found most interesting: Big wine companies that have no organic holdings in other regions are investing in organic estate wineries in Paso Robles. 

Here's a timeline. 

2021 

Constellation acquired the three brand company, My Favorite Neighbor LLC, which included two lower price brands in addition to its swanky, all estate, luxury brand, Booker Vineyard, with its 62 acres of organic vines. The acreage was later expanded to a total of 89 acres with the purchase of a neighboring vineyard, which was just certified regenerative organic. 

(Constellation also owns Napa luxury super star Opus One, in Napa, which it certified organic in 2021. And it purchased the formerly all estate Lingua Franca in the Willamette Valley in 2022, the same year the estate became certified organic. The parent company vastly increased production using purchased grapes under its Avni label (which is predominantly not estate fruit).

2022 

Gallo bought the celebrated Denner Vineyards with its 130 acres of organic vines. 

Riboli Family bought Jada Vineyard with 55 acres of organic vines. (Jada is no longer all estate under the new management.)

2023 

Treasury Wine Estates bought DAOU for $1 billion. The estate has 300 acres certified organic in 2023.

2024 

Riboli owned San Simeon Wines certified 52 acres of organic vines (though it has not mentioned it on its website). 

O'Neill bought Robert Hall in 2016, and, in 2020, hired Caine Thompson (a veteran of organic and biodynamic viticulture and winemaking in New Zealand as well as at another O'Neill owned winery in Paso). The 130 acre estate was certified regenerative organic in 2024.

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DISCUSSION

This raises questions about how big corporate fine wine producers see wine trends. Paso attracts a younger crowd of new wine drinkers. Being organic is definitely a plus in this demographic. 

It also raises questions of how existing organic operations can educate bigger companies about how to manage vineyards with organic practices. On my trip this fall, I definitely heard about that transition on the ground as new corporate crews were now assigned to tend the vines in some wineries. A dramatic learning curve ensued. In addition, Robert Hall's been holding field days for the community several times a year to show the dramatic difference of conventional versus regenerative organic in a trial it's been running for four years. (I just wrote an in depth article about that trial for Grape and Wine magazine.)  Hopefully that bodes well for expanding U.S. organic vine acreage from just 4 percent statewide to something a lot bigger. In comparison, organic acreage for vines in France-Spain-Italy is 18 percent. 

Since growing conditions in Paso are ideal for organics, insiders say, will the region level up its organic game? Stay tuned. 

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Note: In 2022, I wrote about the acreage of existing certified organic producers and growers in the Central Coast. There you will see a tally of the region's largest growers and wineries with organic vines.

Coming soon: Halter Ranch, not owned by a major corporation, is on the verge of regenerative organic certification. Its 256 planted acres were first certified organic in 2016.