Wednesday, August 29, 2018

The Press: Our Organic Supplement to the Chronicle's New Wine Country Guide

The San Francisco Chronicle put together a guide to wine country that was released this week. It's called The Press and subscribers received a free copy of the 120 page book with the Sunday paper.

It's a nicely done short volume, with 52 winery profiles, from four main tourist regions - Napa Valley, Sonoma County, the Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey County, and Mendocino County. Eight of the wineries featured offer organic or Biodynamically grown wines from certified vines.

I thought people might be interested in knowing which wineries in the guide have certified organically grown grapes (the guide doesn't mention this for most of the ones that are). Wines mentioned below are from certified vines.

Asterisk* means tasting is by appointment only.

Mendocino County

Campovida - Hopland Charmer (Inland Mendo)

This gorgeous, under the radar property is just a short drive off of Route 101 and has historic organic vineyard bona fides, as it was the former showcase for Fetzer/Bonterra back when that winery brand was family owned. (Events featured James Beard and Julia Child touting the glories of organic produce and wines). Now this stunning venue is run as a retreat and event center, housing a welcoming tasting room serving up artisanal wines. (Most of the current vintages were made by Sebastian Donoso, now the organic winemaker at Bonterra up the road.)

Note: Campovida also has a tasting room in Oakland.

Wines: Estate wines (Sangiovese, Viognier), Filigreen Farm grown Pinot Gris, Riesling from McFadden, Cabernet from Heart Arrow and Syrah from Fairbairn Ranch. 

Sonoma County

Preston Farm & Winery - Biodynamic Farm Gem (Healdsburg)

Preston is the very first winery listed in this region - as well it should be, because it's the kind of place everyone falls in love with at first sight. A large number of the acres are devoted to growing food, and you can buy home baked bread from proprietor Lou Preston right in the tasting room. And olive oil. And wine. Weekdays, enjoy bocce ball. Picnics are also a good idea here. You can also walk through the farm's many varied crop blocks, something you won't find anywhere else.

Wines: all of the wines are certified Biodynamic.

Skipstone* - Private Enclave (Geyserville)

There are some wineries that people might think of as Napa estates, but sometimes they're located in Sonoma. This is one. It's the home of a well to do tech mogul, who is in love with wine and values organic viticulture. With a $50 tasting fee (and $100 wines), it's not for everyone, but the experience of visiting is lovely and personal - and the wine quality is high up in the collector zone, as you might suspect, since French rock star winemaker Philip Melka consults here.

Wines: all of the wines are from the certified organic estate vineyards.

Medlock Ames - Bucolic Mountain Ranch  (Healdsburg)

The conveniently located tasting room in Alexander Valley (walk ins welcome)  is a fun stop, but the real joy here is visiting the estate (reservations required*), where the wines are grown and made on Bell Mountain. The winery was started by two Millennials (college bromance), and when one got rich (hedge funds), the two were able to launch their dream winery. The brand has a strong following with (but is certainly not limited to) up and coming wine drinkers (i.e. Millennials).

Wines: all of the wines are from the certified organic estate vineyards. 

Horse & Plow - Down Home (Sebastopol)

One of my personal favorites, this is a winery and tasting room even the locals love. That should tell you something. Casual and unpretentious, this winery is run by a husband and wife winemaking team who make some very fine wines for their own labels and others. But at their tasting room, you'll find vegetable starts, cider (by the bottle or growler), heirloom apple trees, and wines for everyday drinking as well as special occasions. (The Gardener label is pricier). You can relax on the hay bales, play horseshoes (not bocce, thank you) or bring a feast and enjoy at dog and family friendly picnic tables.

Wines: all of the wines are from certified organic or Biodynamic growers. 

Napa Valley

Frog's Leap* - An Agricultural Paradise (Rutherford)

The organic poster child in Napa, this by appointment only winery is a must see. From free ranging chickens and beautiful veggies to orchards ripe with peaches, the property is a celebration of nature's bounty. (Of course the vines take center stage.) Frog's Leap converted many of its growers to organic practices and certification, paying them a premium. The farmhouse architecture (designed by my friend Ned Forrest) is a marvel. Some of the most affordably priced, high quality wines in Napa can be found here. Example: their Rutherford Cabernet - $55.

Wines: nearly all of the wines come from certified organic vines.

Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey County

Ridge Vineyards - On Top of the World (Cupertino)

Ridge is world famous for a reason. Their wines rock. So does their farming. At Montebello, they have a great site that's been producing fine wine since the 1880s. For the last 50+ years, their emphasis has remained focused on preindustrial winemaking - i.e. no manipulation, additives, etc. They've also become a leader in organic farming, converting their 277 acres of estate vines (both here and in Sonoma) to certification. The winery also bottle labels ingredients in their wines so you know exactly what's inside. Starting with the 2016 vintage, its flagship Montebello will list "organic grapes" among the ingredients.

Wines: Due to the huge number of wines and vineyards they source from, it's best to ask which ones are from organic vines. (They have very well trained staff who will know). Three are the East Bench Zin (newish vines) and the Geyserville (from vines from the 1880s) as well as the Merlot.

Big Basin Vineyards - Redwoods (Boulder Creek)

Fancy a trip down winding mountain roads lined with redwoods? This is the spot to go. You can also dip into the tasting room in downtown Saratoga, but a weekend trip to the woods might be far more delightful. The organic vines surround the winery, housed in an old barn. There's plenty of rustic charm. Bring a picnic; tables (with a view of the vines) are provided.

Wines: Rattlesnake Rock Syrah, Grizzly Grenache or Homestead Block Roussanne are all from the certified organic estate vines.

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To all of these wineries: thank you for being organic - and for being certified.

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