Gifting? Dive into Lovely Burgundy's: An Assorted Case from Porter Creek Vineyards' Friend (and Mine, too) from Francois Morey's Caveau d’Auxey

Francois Morey in Auxey-Duresses

Last year I had the very wonderful opportunity to visit Burgundy en route to the OIV sponsored Vineyards and Biodiversity conference held in Avignon. I decided to take on an extra five days before the Avignon event to travel on my own to Burgundy, which I had never been to, and which I think of not only as a great wine region but also the place where the biodynamic movement gained so much ground that it established biodynamics as a "cool brand" around the globe. 

In "stealth mode," I am in the process of writing a book about organic and biodynamics, primarily in the U.S. but I felt I was missing an important chapter in the biodynamic movement unless I checked out its role in Burgundy. I also knew no one in Burgundy, so I reached out to a few biodynamic Pinot Noir producers here who I greatly admire and consider very Burgundian. That list included Doug Tunnell at Oregon's Brick House Vineyards and Alex Davis at Porter Creek in the Russian River Valley here in California. 

Both were very obliging. Alex who had interned under Domaine Georges Roumier in Burgundy early on in his career (they are still in contact today), put me in touch with Francois Morey in Auxey-Duresses who runs a wine shop in the village, operating out of his grandmother's former kitchen and his family's long running retail space. (Francois had interned at Porter Creek in 2003.) 

Little did I know what a prestigious family he comes from. As I found out when we chatted in his grandmother's former kitchen, now his wine shop's office, his uncle was the technical director of Leflaive, one of the pioneers of biodynamics in the region and a legendary producer. 

I met Francois at his shop in January last year for what was an unforgettable day. His hospitality and generosity went beyond the bounds. He arranged for me to visit several wineries and winemakers (in their homes, even), translated when necessary, and took me out for a special lunch in an out of the way spot. 

We headed for our first stop to a nearby Demeter certified biodynamic producer Clos du Moulin au Moines. The Auxey-Duresses mill (moulin) was built by monks (moines) from Cluny at the edge of a stream which still exists today. The mill was built before Burgundy's more famous monastery, Vougeot.

There we met up with Willy Roulendes, technical director, and Anne-Lise Roman, his co-worker (whose official role is marketing), and tasted their stunning wines in the cellar. 

Willy Roulendes

Founded in 962, the domaine has only had five owners in its 1,000+ year old history. 

In the monopole of Monthelie, where the mill is located, the winery has just 3 hectares planted (but also sources from other climats in Burgundy.) 

It makes one Chardonnay, rare in a region of mostly reds. It is crisp and complex. Fermentation takes place in 350L oak barrels. Aging is 10 months. 

Fortunately for us, this Chardonnay is available in the U.S. but only rarely. One place you can get it is in Francois's selection of Burgundy wines in this offer–a perfect holiday gift or splurge. 

Here are the details of Francois's selection (pdf online). Or you can email contact@caveau-auxey.fr.

Here are more details from Alex Davis, who sends his customers an email each year for Francois's annual case offer. 

"Caveau d’Auxey focuses on Burgundian wines made in traditional terroir driven style (meaning that the winemaking intention is to show the character of where and how the grapes are grown as opposed to showing winemaking manipulation), emphasizing producers that are independently owned and operated.  Wines produced in this fashion have personality that shows through in a way that simply cannot be achieved by an offsite board of directors. Francois provides his own detailed description of wines offered as well as profiles of the producers, with personal details and how the approach of each vigneron is reflected in the wines. And that is something we can relate to at Porter Creek! 

The winemaking of Burgundy is a huge inspiration and foundation for Porter Creek's owner/winemaker Alex Davis, who spent three harvest seasons and a school year learning about wine in Burgundy in the years 1994-1996. Incidentally, Francois also worked a harvest with Porter Creek in 2003, as did his assistant Théo in 2022. A special quality about the winemaking circle are friendships such as these.

For those that enjoy Burgundy wines, this is an opportunity not to be missed to acquire these unique bottlings. For those that are curious or still learning about Burgundy, this is a great chance to sample a well-curated selection of wines of the region. Many of these wines are not otherwise available in the US and are offered at lower markups than standard. You will find all of the details about ordering and pricing in his attachment. Porter Creek has no financial affiliation with Caveau d’Auxey.

Here on the Porter Creek estate the fall colors are holding beautifully and the mid-day temperatures have been ideal, so if you happen to be in the area this is definitely one of the most aesthetic times of year for a visit! And if you need any of our wines for your cellar as winter and the holidays approach just send us an email at info@portercreekvineyards.com or call us at (707) 433-6321.

Cheers,

Alex Davis, Proprietor & Winemaker, Porter Creek Vineyards, 707-433-6321
www.portercreekvineyards.com"

The cave in Auxey

Celebrate International Tempranillo Day Nov. 14-17 with Organically Grown Wines and Bites from Bokisch in Lodi

Bokisch Vineyards in Lodi is going all out to celebrate the wine that made Rioja famous. Choose your food and wine pairing event - they have three to choose from including one on Friday, one on Saturday and one on Sunday. Sunday the winery will host live music on the lawn along with food pairings for their Tempranillo.

The variety is the 4th most planted wine grape in the world yet little is grown acres in California, though that could change with climate change. Of the estimated 925 or so acres of Tempranillo planted in California, about 120 acres are in Lodi. 

Bokisch is one of the very few wineries in Lodi that champions organic.  Its 2023 vintages validate that by stating "organically grown" on the back label. Their vineyard was certified organic in 2009.

Spanish on his mother's side, Markus Bokisch, a renowned Lodi vineyard manager and vintner, uses Spanish clones. The winery also makes organically grown Grenache and other Spanish variatals.

Economics of Organic, Part 2: Deep Dive on Organic Vineyard Costs from High End Vineyard Management Company

Jesse Apgar, director of operations at Phil Coturri's Enterprise Vineyards was one of the featured companies at the Napa Green event last week on the Economics of Organics and presented what might be one of the most detailed data packed overviews of the organic farming costs for the company. 

Note: these may be higher than what in house winery teams experience (as some have reported to me), it does provide a baseline for understanding the nuances of what a grower can expect to encounter and compare/contrast that to their current farming system.

The company has been farming organically for 40 years. Its clients include Kamen Estate, Lasseter, Mayacamas, Oakville Ranch, Rossi Ranch (in Sonoma) and more. 

The presentation shows the different costs and care required for three different types of vineyards including valley clay soils, steep mountains and mountain terraces. 

I am not going to try to summarize the presentation, Just feast your eyes on the whole enchilada here. And send your thanks to Napa Green and Enterprise Vineyards for this incredible document.

Organic Vintners Form New Organic Trade Association Wine Council, Seek to Harmonize with Global Organic Wine Standards

Joseph Brinkley, president of OTA's Wine Council in D.C. in 2023

Six U.S. producers and several partner companies came together to form a new Organic Trade Association (OTA) Wine Council.

In making this announcement, the OTA wrote:

"OTA's Wine Council fills a current gap in services provided to existing members when it comes to the adult beverage industry, specifically the wine sector.  The council serves as a focused space and group that can address many of the issues facing organic wine growers and brands in the organic and made with organic grapes category for wines. 

This council will serve to protect and promote organic in the wine space, specifically in the wine made with organic grapes category, by creating a space for collective advocacy around policies and regulations that effect this business sector, by working to educate the many players in the three tier system that wine must operate within domestically, by addressing current issues related to imports/exports such as equivalency agreements and related topics, and by providing a forum to address additional topics that we are facing or may face in the future that are critical to the growth and success of organics in the wine sector."

Current officers are Joseph Brinkley (Bonterra Organic Estates) as Chair, Cain Thompson (O’Neill

Vintners & Distillers) as Vice Chair, and Eliza Frey (Frey Vineyards) as Secretary.

For years the U.S. has been unable to align with the EU or other international standards on certifying organically grown wines. In addition in the U.S., with three wine standards, consumers and trade have been endlessly dismayed and confused over what the term organic wine means as it has multiple layers of meaning. At its most general, the term means a wine that comes from crushed organic grapes. But the term also has a more technical USDA NOP meaning as one of the wine standards in the U.S. and the one that does not allow added sulfites.  

The roots of domestic certification for organically grown wines in the U.S. were set in a mysterious and highly reactionary and political manner. See this blog post (formerly an article on the now defunct Pix.com website) that provides the historical context for the subjective decision making process that took place when the USDA started defining the organic standards for wine. 

The wine industry at the time was not well organized and food rules were hastily applied to wine. The situation in the EU was quite different. The U.S. policies resulted in wine standards that are not harmonized for international trade, leading to many needless complications and costs. 

Most recently new and even more excessive regulations require wine importers themselves to be certified (in addition to the wines), while a TTB backlog prevented timely certification. 

Its 2023 Wine Council report states the Wine Council's agenda which plans to address some of these issues.

The site listed the group's 2024 goals as: 

 Those who are interested in joining, may contact Danielle Cote (DCote@ota.com).

Economics of Organic Definitely Pencil Out, Say Major Producers at Napa Green Event in Rutherford

A crowd of wine grape growers and winemakers met Thursday afternoon in Rutherford to hear presentations from leading authorities in organic wine growing to better understand if organic practices make fiscal sense. 

The message from the three practicing presenters–representing Napa based Grgich Hills Estate and Quintessa and Sonoma based Gloria Ferrer–was a unanimous yes. 

In addition, university researcher Axel Herrera Moreno, post doc at U.C. Davis in the Lazcano lab presented cost analysis stats from the lab's latest study at Jackson Family Wines.

Bernat Sort Costa, regenerative organic research manager at Grgich Hills Estate, kicked things off showing that the farming costs on Grgich's 365 acres Napa Valley vines (in five AVAs) cost less to farm than the average in Napa. Ivo Jeramaz has been providing the same data at various events. (See previous blog post here for more details.) Replanting takes place less frequently and as this is a major cost consideration, it can be potentially be the strongest reason to farm organically for some.

"Our depreciation costs are lower than half [of 150+ Napa peers] on average," said Sort Costa. 

In addition, there are intangible benefits. 

"These are harder to attribute a dollar value to but what you get with regenerative farming is higher quality grapes, more flavorful, ageworthy wines...there's no harmful chemicals in the products and most important for us, [there is better] health for our farm workers," he said.

Grgich Hills Estate makes about 65,000 cases of all estate, all organically grown (and certified Made with Organic Grapes) wines each year. 

His slides can be seen on this link.

Wine Quality Improvements Can Lead to Greater Profits: The Chateau Pontet-Canet Case Study

I personally wanted to include a bit of information here that was not part of the event, but shows what improvements in wine quality can lead to. 

An improvement in wine quality can be a chief financial benefit, according to a Harvard Business School study of Chateau Pontet-Canet, a prestigious Bordeaux estate. 

In 1999, it produced 40,000 cases of grand vin (90 pts.) and 25,000 cases of second wine (86 pts.) 

After organic and biodynamic conversion under Jean-Michel Comme, the estate eliminated its second wine, bringing all the grapes into its first wine–a huge financial benefit.

Two decades after converting, in 2020, Jane Anson rated the wine at 97 points.

Gloria Ferrer

In Sonoma's Carneros, growing conditions are quite different from those at Grgich's American Canyon, Rutherford and Calistage vineyards, but the organic farming benefits are quite similar, said Brad Kurtz of Gloria Ferrer, which is on the verge of completing organic certification on 331 acres of vines. (It takes three years of organic farming to be certified. The winery is well into year 3, having started in 2021.)

"We've seen the quality as we transition from conventional to organic. The quality of the wines has elevated every year, with tons of intensity on the palate," he said, as the event attendees tasted the 2021 Royal Cuvee sparkling wine rosé. "Really long finish. Great mid palate, great mouth coat, and it's something that we're really proud of, and we're really proud that every year it gets better and better as we develop our vineyards organically."

Transitioning has really been a challenge, he said, but aided by an in house team.

"We have our own estate vineyard team. We have about 22 year round employees in the vineyards that do all of our vineyard work. We do not outsource any of our vineyard work. We have all our equipment in house. Everything is done, including harvest, in house. We do not bring outside picking crews. We hire people and use our own teams for our own harvest, and it is about 95% sparkling wine."

Owned by Barcelona based Freixenet, Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma produces 60,000 cases of wine a year from its 331 estate acres. 

"We are dealing with the challenges of organic farming. We are producing traditional method sparkling wines, which, in their own right, are very expensive to produce, and we're able to do it organically. We've been able to organically farm and make these traditional method sparkling wines, and still stay a relatively affordable price point on the wholesale market... It's something we're really proud of–that we're able to do this and still produce an extremely high quality product and still do it at a commercial scale." 

"As far as farming costs go, we've actually held our farming costs fairly steady across the last five to six years, even with the increase in the cost of inputs."

Despite increased costs for weed control, Kurtz said, "Our farming costs have actually gone down slightly." 

Note: Around the world, other sparkling wine producers making Cava and Prosecco have made organic their calling card. Freixenet is one of the largest producers of Cava. 

Grown in the Penedes region near Barcelona, Cava has new regulations that require all wines in the Guarda Superior category to be 100% organic by 2025. 

Trade and Consumer Reception

Kurtz said the wines continue to increase in quality each year and vineyard tours are popular with the trade and consumers.

"We're seeing better feedback from our consumers...we're seeing that increase in loyalty. We're bringing in new consumers," he said.

He gives three tours a week to trade and consumers. 

"When you start talking about organic farming and the systems involved in organic farming, their eyes light up, and they become very engaged. I think people are very interested in using these systems, whether it's cover cropping, whether it's grazing in the vineyards, whether it is our owl boxes, whether it's using compost. We produce our own compost on site."

"I take them on a walk. We walk through the vine rows. We walk up to the compost operation. I show the guys turning the compost piles. I explain why it's important. We harvest our grapes. We take what we need from it...The skins go right back, they compost and go right back into the vineyards. It's a whole system. So explaining these things to people, you see light bulbs go off and get them really engaged in the brand, get them engaged in the winery, and become loyal customers. And I think that's a huge benefit."

From left to right, Rebekah Wineburg (Quintessa), Brad Kurtz (Gloria Ferrer), 
Sara Ferguson (Ruetd) and Anna Britain (Napa Green)

Napa Winemaker Perspective 

Wineburg said metrics for an estate are different than for a grower. "The real metric is not cost per acre. It's number of tons that actually make it into the blend," she said. 

"I do think that there are huge benefits in terms of resilience in each of the vines. Replanting a vineyard is the biggest cost, the most expensive thing that you can do. So if we can keep these vines in the ground for another 10, another 15 years, that's wonderful from a cost perspective. From a quality, consistency and depth of flavor perspective, it's even more important because vines only really come to express their terroir when they're mature. They come into that balance, and when they are at that balance, they are more resilient. So we do believe in building farming for resilience."

Resilience 

I am going to interject another point here (that was not part of the Napa Green event). A study I heard last year at the OIV sponsored Vineyards and Biodiversity conference in Avignon (highly recommended YouTube channel here with English subtitles) from Geisenheim researchers (see my blog post here) found that organic and biodynamic vines, yields in organic and biodynamic vineyards are higher than conventional in hot and dry years.

Gloria Ferrer, Continued: Grape Sales Up Due to Organic Farming

Wurtz said the organic farming has expanded the winery's appeal not only to consumers and the trade but also to grape purchasers.

"Farming organically has opened up new clients to us, which I think is huge. It's been a very challenging year for grape sales, as I'm sure everybody knows....But we have a lot of neighbors that have a lot of fruit that was not harvested, and we were able to move more tons. I can guarantee we were able to move more tons this year than we would have if we were not farming organically, and the price that we got for those funds was significantly higher than what everyone else was getting in our area."

"I think that is a very easy ROI versus dropping your fruit on the ground. We're selling it...that is a very easy equation. And if we were not farming organically, we would not have sold this fruit. Every single person we sold fruit to this year bought fruit from us because we were farming organically, and they were seeking out organically farmed fruit. And they may not be putting it on the bottle, but they are conscious of organic farming, and they understand that organic farming produces better wines."

NEXT UP: BLOG POST WITH DETAILED VINEYARD COSTS FROM JESSE APGAR AT ENTERPRISE VINEYARDS...CLICK HERE