Paul Dolan Obituary - Plus an In Memoriam Quote from Dave Koball

Paul Dolan speaking in 2018 at the International Biodynamic Wine Conference
(in San Francisco)

Pioneering organic, biodynamic and regenerative icon Paul Dolan passed this week at the age of 72, after a long bout with prostate cancer. The wine community in California and across the globe has been filled with reminiscences and laments. He did so much good for the world in his works and in his example. 

I was lucky enough to work with him on the Demeter USA International Biodynamic Wine Conference in 2018 (I was the conference program director) and observed the magic that happened when he spoke to the assembled gathering, quoting from Jacky Rigaux's classic book Terroir and The Winegrower.

It was wonderful to write an obituary for him for WineBusiness.com and to be able to use quotes from old interviews (otherwise unpublished so far) about his early years. He had so much wisdom and knowledge. I was glad to find plenty of his own quotes to share in the obit so that his voice was heard.

I have other great interviews with him about industry topics (like branding, etc.) and hope to find a home for them in the future. (Maybe in a book.)

One part of writing an obit is asking people for reminiscences. One arrived too late to include in the WineBusiness.com piece, so I am sharing it here.

It comes from Dave Koball, who worked with Paul and the Fetzer family initially to convert their vineyards to biodynamics and who went on to manage the extensive vineyards for several decades. His tenure spanned from 1994-2015.

Here is what he had to say about Paul: 

"Paul knew how to inspire people and get them on board with his oftentimes large scale, outside the box ideas, and he did it with a very deft, personal touch, that made you feel special and gave you the feeling of being part of something larger and better than yourself.  He cultivated people as much as he cultivated grapes.  When I interviewed with him for my job at Bonterra, he didn't have me come in to his office, we met up at Dark Horse, his vineyard, one of the prettiest vineyard sites in the county, and he pointed across the valley to the Butler Ranch, and asked if I'd like to help him develop that into one of the pre-eminent organic and Biodynamic vineyards in the North Coast.  How can a young person in vineyards turn that down, in that setting?  

Paul didn't just do new things for the sake of something different, he wanted to do these all encompassing projects that not only changed the way we farmed, but the way we thought about farming's effects on the environment,  how farming affected the people doing the work in the vineyards and wineries, how it affected the quality of the wine we drank, and finally, how it affected the consumer's perception of the work we did and the product that we produced.  All of this worked to get folks to become passionate believers in Bonterra and Fetzer as well as organic and Biodynamic farming in general.  He was a true Biodynamic farmer, he thought holistically, systematically, and brought that to business. 

The wine industry needs more Paul Dolans, calm passionate voices always seeking to help us to do better, be better, and change the planet.  I'll miss hearing that voice."

The Dolan family has announced that a memorial service will be held in early August - dates to be announced. I look forward to hearing many more reminiscences then.

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