Dry Farm Wines, WINC, Scout and Cellar, and a host of other direct to consumer wine brands are touting "Clean Wines" as better than anything.
Why organic certification doesn't count for as much as "clean wine" is a byproduct of the natural wine movement, which has made consumers focus on additives in wine - additives like sugar, MegaPurple and other baddies. Consumers like focusing on additives, because they can read lists of additives on food products. It's familiar ground.
And natural winemakers like focusing on them, too, since, in the US, very few natural winemakers grow grapes (which was supposed to be one of the essential definitions of natural wine) and focus instead on all the things they DON'T add to wine instead of what they do do - choosing fermentation vessels, aging vessels, deciding on length of various processes, etc. etc.
The Clean Wine Crowd haven't yet really addressed farming issues. ("Trust us" is a common refrain.) While they often try to avoid the O word - organic - they don't mind if their version of organic is what is increasingly referred to as "non-certified organic."
(Were there too many sulfite questions from confused consumers over the USDA's idea of Organic Wine being sulfite free?)
This week, an indie vintner and I tasted wines together and she assured me one of the wines was from a "non-certified organic" vineyard. The next day I looked it up on the county's pesticide use report. Not organic. A lot of fungicides.
She was dismayed and felt betrayed. I've seen the same response from many of my colleagues. "How could someone lie to me?" they say.
I've been dismayed often, too. It's hard not to take it as a sense of personal betrayal when someone is untruthful, as if you will never find out what they are really farming with in their vineyard. Do you really appear to them to be that much of stooge, you wonder? Or, to give some of them the benefit of the doubt, do they themselves not know what their vineyard management company is doing?
I've come to the conclusion over years of researching this topic, that, although there are some innocents out there, many vintners just lie. They are just so used to no one ever reading the pesticide use report.
Do they must think the pesticide use data stays inside a database in Sacramento for its entire life?
Apparently they do. I could give countless examples of this phenomenon but I won't - at least not today.
The companies staking their claim on making "clean" wine are often using "non-certified organic" grapes. Some are also buying certified organic - from Bonterra's former growers (who are organically certified) in Mendocino (Bonterra found cheaper organic grapes elsewhere and abandoned many Mendo growers) or from certified organic producers elsewhere, including Emiliana in Chile - without telling consumers the grapes are actually certified organic.
Now Bonterra's taking aim at these green mantle wannabees - certified organic's thieves - and the thieves' soaring sales and popularity (WINC just filed for an IPO this week, meaning it could go public) and fighting back with this new video, released a month ago. Take a look in this Bonterra video below.
(Bonterra's lawyers must have gotten more powerful, since this video, unlike most wine videos, appears to only be viewable on YouTube - where your age can be confirmed? Pullease. [That is not the spirit of Dionysos, is it?] Still, click on over.)