Old and New: Alexander Valley's Organic Side Is Growing

Alexander Valley - it's that sunny, enticing part of Sonoma county north of Healdsburg where the views from Route 101 are no longer of big box stores and gas stations but of a broad valley displaying its green vines running down ridge spines.

It's the kind of magical place where you put the convertible top down and motor down country roads lined with picturesque old houses and acres of vines and get that rush of "I LOVE wine country" in your bones.

This weekend the region celebrates with its annual Taste Alexander Valley event. Festivities include lots of food, wine and live music at participating wineries.

Everyone knows Alexander Valley's famous for its rich history - from prunes to grapes. But did you know how entwined its history is with organic vines?

I hadn't known until I visited two local wineries yesterday on a day that, purely synchronistically, turned out to cover the alpha and omega of Alexander Valley - and perhaps of Sonoma County, too.

ALEXANDER VALLEY'S ORGANIC SCENE

There are four wineries with organic vines here (north of the town of Healdsburg):

• Alexander Valley Vineyards: 8 acres of organic vines out of 200 vineyard acres (2,700+ cases of organically grown wines; out of 70,000 cases total)

• Medlock Ames: 55 acres of organic vines (10,000+ cases of organically grown wine) (100% of estate vines and wines)

• Ridge Vineyards: 52 acres of organic vines in Geyserville (plus 150 more in Dry Creek Valley) (cases NA) (the estate is in transition to 100% certification)

• Skipstone: 30 acres of organic vines (500 cases of organically grown wine) (100%)

Though the region is not what comes to mind when  you think "organic" and "Sonoma," that's more than 10 percent of the county's 1,000 acres of organic vines (out of 60,000 planted acres total).

I visited Alexander Valley Vineyards and Medlock Ames, both on vineyard tours yesterday, where the contrast between the old and the new made for a great, all-in-a-day's adventure.

ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS

The first release of the
AVV Cabernet from
organic vines

Hank Wetzel III, a second generation Alexander Valley winemaker, raises chickens, veggies and wine grapes - 220 acres of them - selling his eggs, giant kumquats, lettuce and tomatoes at the Healdsburg Farmers Market.

A trip to the historic Alexander Valley
Vineyards can include a visit to the grave of
the Alexander family

Now his son, Harry Wetzel IV, of the Wetzel's third generation, is selling his newly released organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (728 cases made/$28), alongside his father's eggs, at the family's Alexander Valley Vineyards, a 660+ acre spread (with 220 acres in vines) located on the original homestead of the area's first white settler Cyrus Alexander (who came to the area in 1842).

While the family lives in the oldest house in town, adjacent to the Alexander family's old adobe, one of the oldest structures in the county, their 8 acres of organic Cabernet Sauvignon vines are the newest to be certified by CCOF in Alexander Valley.

Alexander Valley Vineyards, the first winery to be built in the region in the 1960's, offers a splendid vineyard tour Mondays through Saturdays at 10:30 ($50, including tastings, guided tour and lunch) that takes visitors through the vineyards and historic buildings on the site - an enjoyable peek at Alexander Valley's 19th century roots.

The winery's expanding and has recently added a second crush pad. The 2015 vintage will be its first year of operation.

The winery kindly labels its organically grown wines "Ingredients: Organic Grapes," so consumers can be sure organic grapes are in the bottle.

MEDLOCK AMES

Down the road, the new kids in town run a winery called Medlock Ames, which you might call a college bro winery. It's owned and operated by two guys who were Tulane University roommates back in the day - hedge fund proprietor Christopher Medlock James, who funded its initial investments, and Ames Morrison, who oversees operations and winemaking.

The Medlock Ames winery's modern look

Medlock Ames embodies the founders' own organic values - Ames is a third generation organic farmer - while also catering to a younger, hipster crowd.

The winery grows veggies on its Bell Mountain Estate and sells estate grown organic strawberry jam and kumquat marmalade as well as organically grown Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc and more.

The estate Cabernet

Medlock Ames began with a commitment to organic viticulture, with an unexpected look backward, as well, when the winery, about to rip out a block of Merlot, decided to test the vine's DNA.

Little did they know they possessed one of the few plantings of the Jefferson clone, which, as legend has it, is reputed to date back to Jefferson's importation of vines from Petrus on his 18th century visit to the famous French estate.

The winery located a nursery in upstate New York that was still selling this clone and planted more of it on Bell Mountain. It's now bottled and released as their Heritage Merlot.

Medlock Ames is also working toward certifying its winery as organic (in addition to its vines) which would give it the option, down the line, to potentially make wine certified as "Made with Organic Grapes" and label that on the front of the bottle.

RIDGE VINEYARDS

Dig a little deeper into Alexander Valley, and you'll find that one of the AVA's most historic (and now certified organic) vineyards was planted way back in 1882. The Whitton Ranch, owned by the Trentadue family and under long term contract to Ridge Vineyards, has 66 acres of old field blend head trained vines of more than 28 different varieties. The oldest section, known as The Old Patch, is 6 acres planted in the 1880's. There are three other surviving blocks planted in the 1890's.

Old Patch, the oldest vines Ridge farms, date back to the 1880's

Interestingly the vines were planted by A. Bouton, a well known orchardist who attracted the attention of Luther Burbank. According to the Trentadue family's web site, Burbank visited Bouton's orchards and vines frequently and influenced Burbank to come to Sonoma, where Burbank then settled, living in Santa Rosa and working on his research farm in Sebastopol.

The Trentadue family also has their own deep connection to orchards and vines. The family had been growing apricots and cherries in Santa Clara but fled the area in 1959 as commercial and residential development encroached. They resettled in the then remote Alexander Valley in the early 1960's to raise apples, pears, prunes and wine grapes. The 200+ acres of land they purchased included the 66 acre Whitton Ranch.

A field blend of Zinfandel, Carignane, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre and other varieties, Whitton Ranch is the oldest vineyard Ridge farms and is the source for Ridge's magnificent Geyserville Zinfandel, one of the country's best known old vine Zins. About 40 percent of the vines in this blend come from the oldest vines. This year (2015) the wine will be made solely from certified vines for the first time.

Learn more about this historic vineyard in the video below.



SKIPSTONE RANCH

Tucked away on a quiet lane overlooking the valley, this 200+ acre estate is the wine project of Fahri Diner, a tech entrepreneur from Cyprus, who's established a personal organic paradise, complete with organic veggie garden and personal chef, on the property.

Legendary organic vineyard expert Amigo Bob Cantisano, one of the founders of CCOF, oversees the vineyard management.

Skipstone's Alexander Valley vines

The winemaking is under the supervision of Philippe Melka, one of the leading French wine consultants who also lives and works in Napa for elite wineries. Melka recommends to his clients that they farm their vineyards organically.

Slipstone makes only about 500 cases a year of (mostly) red Bordeaux blends which are priced around $85.

The property is located next door to the Jackson family home, where famed Biodynamic wine consultant Philippe Armeniere was once hired (in 2000) to start a Biodynamic vineyard for Jackson. (The vineyard is no longer there.)

Skipstone was certified in 2008.

It keeps a low profile in terms of wine tourism and visits are by appointment only. Most of the wines are highly rated and are allocated to wine club members.

18TH ANNUAL TASTE ALEXANDER VALLEY EVENT - MAY 15-17

If you're feeling inspired to experience some of that Alexander Valley historic vibe and its May sunshine for yourself, this weekend's the 18th Taste Alexander Valley event with food and live music at many of the participating wineries.

The three day events gets started with a barn dance Friday night. Ticket pricing and details can be found here.

Starred wineries are participating in the weekend festivities.

• Alexander Valley Vineyards*

AVV will be serving forth a flatbread with goat cheese (to pair with its white wines) and a pork tenderloin with cherry and japapeno sauce (to pair with its Cabernet). Cave tours and barrel tastings will be offered at noon and 3 pm (free).

• Medlock Ames*

The tasting room at Medlock Ames will be 20% off on featured 2013 wines.

The 2013 Russian River Valley Chardonnay will be a featured wine and will be paired with truffle Mac and Cheese.

A special Meet the Winemaker event is scheduled for Sunday from 2-3 pm (10 guests only - call to reserve).

• Ridge Vineyards

Ridge's winery is located in Dry Creek Valley (not Alexander Valley so it's not part of the weekend festivities). It is open for public tours and tastings daily.

• Skipstone Ranch

Tours are available by appointment only.

Certification Geek Info: AVV labels its wine "Ingredients: Organic Grapes." Ridge does, too, when the contents are 100% organic; the 2015 Geyserville will be 100%. Medlock Ames and Skipstone are 100% estate wines and their estates are 100% organic but they do not currently label the wines "Ingredients: Organic Grapes."

CCOF Workshop: Going Organic in Rutherford

One Napa property owner with 1.5 acres in vine in Stags Leap had been growing organically for decades, but was never quite sure how to connect with a certifier. A Redwood Valley grower from Mendocino County with a 20 acre vineyard knew he was ready to finally get certified. A Gilroy grower and vintner wanted to find out about certification. And Michael Haddox, of Fetzer's grower relations group, was looking for new sources of certified organic grapes for Fetzer's organic wine brand Bonterra.

(L to R) John Williams and Frank Leeds of Frog's Leap. Clinton Nelson of
Jack Neal & Son, Andrea Davis-Cetina of Quarter Acre Farm and Debby
Zygielbaum of Robert Sinskey Vineyards

These growers, buyers and others, including representatives from the Napa County Agriculture Dept., Napa's Resource Conservation District (RCD), the USDA's Natural Resources Conservation District, and Napa Valley Community College, gathered yesterday at the Rutherford Grange to hear from CCOF representatives and Napa County wine experts with certified vineyards in a CCOF-sponsored event "Going Organic," one of a series of events held across the state in agricultural areas.

The experts came from Jack Neal & Son, the largest organic vineyard management firm in Napa county, and from Frog's Leap and Robert Sinskey Vineyards, prominent vintners who are among the top five organic vineyard owners in Napa County. (Grgich Hills is the largest organic vineyard owner, but it's certified through Stellar Certification Services, the organic certification brand of Demeter USA.)

After an organic box lunch at the Grange, the group then went to see two nearby organic vineyards - one farmed by Jack Neal & Son for Neal Family Vineyards and the other at Frog's Leap.


John Williams, proprietor of Frog's Leap, started growing wine grapes organically in 1988. "Why certify?" he asked. "Because you get back what you put in. CCOF gives you networking, connects you to a community - this community right here. This is an organization that has resources and materials."

He later added, "It's better to get farmers together, here at the Grange, to talk about things, versus going to Wilbur Ellis to get more chemicals."

Williams noted that paperwork is often cited as a reason not to certify, but said he doesn't find the required record keeping overwhelming.

"The process of doing the paperwork is simply good farming practice," he said, adding that "a more regulatory environment is probably coming soon for all farmers," not just organic ones.

Williams said his 25 years of experience show him that organic has a lower cost of growing grapes, and that it results in better quality grapes.

"Is there any winery that doesn't want better quality at lower cost?" he asked. 

Increased farmworker safety is another major benefit. "We're protecting our most important asset - our field workers - by increasing their safety and health," he said.

Williams also pointed to the short life of conventionally farmed vineyards in Napa as a pitfall of using harmful chemicals.

"In Napa, we're down to average vineyard lifespans in the teens," he said. "We know that older vines give us the best grapes. To be a Grand Cru in Burgundy, the vines have to be a minimum of 25 years old. We're not achieving that in Napa any more." He said organic vines often last 50, 60 or 70 years. "Therefore, it's worth the extra effort and extra care," he added.

Williams cautioned that growers shouldn't get hung up on blue bird boxes and sheep grazing and OMRI approved materials lists.

"This is it," he said, holding up a copy of Albert Howard's An Agricultural Testament, the classic organic agriculture text published in 1940.

"This shows you Howard's thought processes and brilliant observations. He understood that the heart of organics is nature-based soil and fertility." 

"We're talking about the soil - bringing this beautiful organism alive," Williams said. "Don't go for what I call 'cheater organics' - people who just do the minimum to meet the requirements. I feel sorry for them. They're missing out."

"The fundamental tenet of organics is the organism of the soil - to create living, healthy soil. Healthy soils make healthy plants. Bring that soil to life. Put life into the system. Which is the opposite of taking every ounce of life out of the system - which is what chemical farming does."

Frank Leeds, vineyard manager at Frog's Leap, talked about his family's farming roots in Napa, dating back to the 1920s. "I came here in the 1980's. My Uncle Roy taught me how to farm grapes here. He was a very traditional Napa Valley farmer. He dry farmed (which is how all grapes were grown until the late 1970's). No herbicide for Uncle Roy."

"When it came time to go organic, there was very little change from those traditional farming practices," he added.

Speaking of his dry farming tilling practices,  Leeds said, "I tell John, 'it's good, cold, hard American steel that makes dry farming and organic practices go together well.'"

Clinton Nelson represented Jack Neal & Son, a vineyard management company currently headed by Mark Neal, supporting organic vineyards since 1984. Today the firm manages 45 sites throughout the valley and is the county's largest organic vineyard management firm with close to 1,000 acres under management. Ninety percent of the vineyards it manages are certified organic.

Heitz Cellars, one of its largest and long term clients, has 275 acres of certified organic vines. 

"Organic practices are less toxic to the environment and to farm hands," Nelson said.

Andrea Davis-Cetina, of Quarter Acre Farm of Sonoma, a vegetable and seedling starts farmer, attended as a member of the CCOF board of directors. She's actively leading a reinvigoration of the CCOF's North Coast chapter, which has begun to have quarterly meetings in Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties. "There are 300 members. Debby Zygielbaum of Robert Sinskey Vineyards is the president of the local chapter," Davis-Cetina said.

"Basically what I see is that all of the farmers of my generation are becoming certified organic," Davis-Cetina observed, noting that the government, under the latest farm bill, reimburses farmers for approximately 75% of organic certification costs.

Zygielbaum, whose official title at Robert Sinskey Vineyards is Dirt Farmer and Sheep Wrangler, talked about the changes in the soils at RSV's 170+ acres of vines in the Carneros region. "We have heavy clay soils there, and when I started in 2003, a walk through the vines was like walking in moon boots - heavy clay clung to your soles. Now, 12 years later - there are no moon boots. The soils are much healthier from our organic farming practices."

Zygielbaum invited everyone to attend upcoming CCOF North Coast chapter meetings in Marin in July and at Jack Neal & Son in Napa Valley in November.

The discussion then turned to a broader array of topics, drilling down into winery's organic programs and day to day challenges.

"We have 200 acres of certified vines," said Williams, "mostly in Rutherford. We worked with our growers to get them certified, offering them financial incentives to become certified. 

"We also have 30 other crops on our winery site - peaches, pears, nectarines, apples, figs, vegetables and more."

Frog's Leap does not look at organic as a promotional or marketing device (it doesn't label its wines "Ingredients: Organic Grapes," for instance), Williams said, but commented that nonetheless, he had received negative comments over the years from other Napa vintners, who were "snickering at me. I'd get angry emails along the lines of 'You're trying to make us look bad by comparison, for using these chemicals.'"

Asked what the biggest hurdle to getting started was, Williams said initially that education was the biggest challenge.  "We were fortunate enough to have good advisors out there - Amigo Bob Cantisano and others. That was our biggest hurdle - learning - and perception."

Williams recalled one grower in Pope Valley raising Sauvignon Blanc for him. "There were concerns that the organic block would 'contaminate' the other grapes." He said that after phylloxera infested that grower's property, the only block that survived was the organic block.

Another concern nonorganic vintners raised was what would happen if a new disease arose that organic materials would not be able to address. Williams said, "Amigo told me, 'tell them we'll blast it out with every toxic chemical on the face of the earth known to man.' I said, 'Will we do that?' He said, 'Don't worry. That will never happen.'"

Clinton Nelson said the number one challenge for organic growers is weed control.

Like many organic vine tenders, the firm uses the Sunflower, made by Pellenc of France, to mechanically remove weeds from under vines. (See it in action [elsewhere] on YouTube here or here.)

While this technique works on the flats, other approaches are used on sloping vineyards. "On hillsides terraces on our Howell Mountain property, we use propane weed control," Nelson said.

Pest management and disease prevention focused on common vineyard problems - Blue-green sharpshooters (which spread Pierce's Disease) and powdery mildew. Participants said they use Dipel or Entrust to combat the European grapevine moth, beneficial wasps against vine mealybug, lacewings for leaf roll and wasps to control mites. PyGanic, an organic approved material, was also used.

The subject of GMOs in yeasts was also a concern as many yeasts are raised on GMO sugar beets.

CCOF's new label features the additional words "Non GMO and more" to make it clear to consumers that organic prohibits GMOs. (New "Non GMO" certification programs, that are not organic, have entered the marketplace, making it possible for consumers to identify non GMO, nonorganic products.)

Elizabeth Whitlow of CCOF gives participants an overview of
certification requirements and answered questions on the finer points

Certified wines ("Made with Organic Grapes" or "Organic Wine") use only organic yeast, so no GMOs would be in those products. However, wines labeled "Ingredients: Organic Grapes" are not restricted to organic yeasts and so therefore may contain GMO yeasts.

Panelists and audience members also briefly touched on labeling issues with "Organic Wine," expressing the view that the use of these words should not be restricted to no added sulfite wines.

(There are three different types of labeling for organically grown wines, but the words "Organic Wine" are the one used most often by most people to describe all wines made from organic grapes).

Another question arose over whether or not treated lumber fenceposts would meet organic certification standards.  CCOF Representative Elizabeth Whitlow, formerly the CCOF inspector for Napa County, clarified that one: pre-existing treated lumber could be okayed, but once a site was certified, no new treated lumber would be allowed. 

On the subject of whether or not compost had to be certified organic, Whitlow said the rules stipulate that compost must be approved for organic use by OMRI, Washington State Dept. of Agriculture (WSDA) or by the certifier.

The Neal Family's Rutherford Dust zinfandel vineyard

The group then went on a site visit to Neal Family Vineyards on Mee Lane.

There Clinton Nelson talked about vineyard practices, demonstrating the use of yellow sticky traps to monitor blue-green sharpshooter movements. "In the past, these insects used to come mainly from riparian areas which, being slightly warmer, were attractive as overwintering areas," Nelson said. "But now with warmer winters, we're seeing that these insects are overwintering everywhere. We've also seen them coming more from ornamental plants around houses." 

Participants noted that some varietals suffer more than others from Pierce's Disease (sometimes called PD). Growers commented that Riesling and Petite Sirah were rarely PD victims while Chardonnay was often very susceptible.

Clinton Nelson from Jack Neal & Son showed participants
vineyard monitoring practices used to track insect pests.
Monitoring, used by organic and nonorganic growers alike,
enables growers to better understand volume and direction
of pests.

Nelson discussed some of Neal's preferred vineyard practices, which included the use of 039.16 rootstock on the valley floor, which Nelson said was chosen for its resistance to fan leaf.

"We use stylet oil as a fungicide and miticide," he said. "It suffocates mites. We use it only during the dormant period. Then we switch to a weekly spraying program of Bt bacteria against botryitis and powdery mildew."

Nelson said chemical farmers spray only every other week because the materials they use are more toxic.  "With organic, we have to be preventive and be ahead of any disease or infection."

Another ingredient in the organic vineyardists' arsenal is pyrethrin, a plant extract from the Chrystanthemum family, which has been shown to be effective against blue-green sharpshooters, he said.

Other ingredients in the organic growers' toolkit include pheromone dispensers (although not the traps, which are not approved for organic farming),  PyGanic or lime sulfur (against vine mealybug) and Seduce, an organic-approved ant bait.

Asked why Neal's clients decide to go with organic practices, Nelson said that the factors that were top of mind for clients were berry quality, vine quality and improved safety for farm workers.

Over at Frog's Leap, John Williams led the group through the flower garden, vegetable garden and fruit trees, warning the group that going organic can lead to ever widening circles of environmentally friendly changes.

"This is the first LEED certified winery building in the state of California," he said. "We were among the first to go solar, we dry farm, we have geothermal heating and cooling...this is what happens when you have a heightened awareness of agricultural systems. So be forewarned about going down this path," he joked. 

John Williams talks about dry farming and organic practices at Frog's Leap
in Rutherford

Williams stressed the importance of biodiversity for both the farm and the farmworkers.

"By having other crops - like olive trees - we can provide our 20 fieldworkers with year round employment, health benefits and 6 weeks of vacation," he said. "That's a pretty persuasive package."

The winery also sells marmalade, apple butter and olive oil in shipments to wine club members, along with the wines. "It helps them open the box. We find that these food products are a real asset, because if they don't open the box, they don't drink the wines. When they drink the wine, they keep buying more."

Williams also joked that the hardest list in Napa to get on was the local restaurants' wine lists, due to the amount of local competition, and that the produce sold to local chefs gave him an in in getting his wines on the restaurants'  wine lists, too. 

Williams, who has the talent and timing of a comedian, delivered his views on what a grapevine wants and how much modern viticulture has completely failed the vine.

"What does a grape vine think about?" he asked. "How do I make berries that birds will be attracted to and shit out [so they'll reproduce] and then how do I get ready for winter? A vine needs to product fruit that has the color, acidity and flavor that appeal to a bird." 

Flavor comes from intelligent vines, Williams said.

"Vines don't develop flavor without healthy soils and deep roots. High brix can't substitute for flavor," he said, criticizing the effects of irrigation, fertigation, and Parker's palate on Napa's wines. "So now, in order to make up for all the intelligence we took away from the vine, by feeding it crack, basically, we've got spinning cones, megapurple, and other fake techniques to cover up the lack of natural ripeness and flavor."

These techniques start in the vineyard, he said.

"We've created dumb grapevines making bad decisions, by giving vines surface water and [surface] nutrients. We know that the dominant hormones that make the decisions are in the root tips.

"I've heard experts say the modern vine are now 25% the size of previous vines," he said. It's obvious that Williams doesn't consider this progress. 

Charles Schembrerfrom Napa's RCD  talked about RCD's free 

mobile irrigation lab and encouraged vineyard owners to 

sign up for free irrigation system evaluations

-------

In addition to the field tours, a representative from Napa's RCD program was on hand to tell vineyard managers about RCD's new mobile irrigation lab. The free service is available by appointment and provides an in-depth consultation to review water use and top priorities for improvements. (The RCD web page about the lab says that there's a $200 fee for the lab, but the service is currently free. The earliest bookings available now are in July.)

The event concluded with a wine tasting.

From Neal Family Vineyards, winemaker Gove Celio served forth the 2014 Sauvignon Blanc and the Rutherford Dust Zinfandel - the latter from the Mee Lane site the group visited.

Frog's Leap served its most popular wine - Sauvignon Blanc - along with its Merlot and Cabernet.

Note: All the wines from certified organic vines in Napa can be found using the Organically Napa apps. 

For Certification Geeks:
"Organic Wine" - no added sulfite wines
No vintners in Napa make a no-added-sulfite organically grown wine.

"Made with Organic Grapes" - 100 ppm max sulfites, made in certified winery
Grgich Hills Estate, Neal Family Vineyards and 2 more

"Ingredients: Organic Grapes"
Robert Sinskey Vineyards and 8 more

Unlabeled
Many vintners in Napa with certified vineyards who would be eligible to label their wines "Ingredients: Organic Grapes" don't bottle label. (These estate grown wines from certified vines can be found in the Organically Napa: Wine Finder app).

A Wander in Glen Ellen

Sonoma  - it's 1.5 times the size of the state of Rhode Island and nearly as big as the state of Delaware. There's a lot to explore there, and as I set off on a new travel book project, I've decided to drive and hike around it a lot more. Starting with Glen Ellen.

The sherry barn built by Kohler and Frohling on Sonoma Mountain above Glen Ellen

Glen Ellen's Claim to Foodie Fame

Is there anyone alive who doesn't know that foodie pioneer and memoirist M. F. K. Fisher lived in Glen Ellen? Not in the village proper, but just outside on the Bouverie Preserve. And no, you can't see her house. But you can see Jack London's house...and that's what I did.

Jack London Ranch Remembered

Saturday morning several hundred of the old-timers from the Jack London Ranch, during the era when it was a guest ranch, congregated in the old Kohler and Frohling winery ruins, those stone walls that stand like sentries looking out upon the higher reaches of majestic Sonoma Mountain.

Docents and old timers enjoyed several hours of Jack London Ranch stories and remembrances in the old Kohler and Frohling Winery ruins on Sonoma Mountain

In pairs and threes, they were interviewed, one after another, on life on the ranch in the 1930's-50's and a little beyond (into the 60's). I'd wanted to hear all of this real life storytelling straight from the horse's mouth, so to speak. Much mention was made of idyllic summers, with lots of horseback riding and swimming in the lake for the kids, and hunting for the men, followed by hours of evening card playing.

In terms of wine, there was a considerable history before London bought the ranch, but when he owned the ranch hay sold for higher prices than wine grapes so the wine grapes were mostly torn out. The property became a dairy farm under his heirs. Perhaps a little bit of pot was grown there, too, some say.

Charmiane London's house, built after Jack's death

The London's cottage, where they lived while at the Ranch, enlarging it an
office for Jack after their new house burned down

You can easily spend the better part of a day exploring the park. There's the House of Happy Walls, the house built by London's wife, Charmiane, after his death, which is now a museum to the two of them. And then there's the tragedy still standing in ruins -  Wolf House, the site of their grandly planned home, which would have looked like a miniature version of the Awahnee, had it not burned down in a freakish fire.

Then there's the whole cottage and London's office to visit. Listen to Enrico Caruso sing opera on a victrola in the study. Docents will guide you through that room and the whole cottage, as well as to the Wolf House. The park is blessed with amazingly well informed docents, and, surprisingly, most of them are men. Charmingly one volunteer plays piano in the House of Happy Walls, just as Charmian would have done, on weekend afternoons. (Speaking of whom, there's a Charmian tour coming up in the park once a month throughout the summer. Click here for details.)

While there's so much cultural history and life to explore, there are also miles and miles of trails to hike.

Jack London's version of "yellow sticky notes"

Benziger Family Winery, the Old Wegener Winery

Up on the hill near London's ranch is Benziger Family Winery, the county's Biodynamic leader, with four Biodynamic vineyards in the county, including one surrounding the winery tasting room on Sonoma Mountain. This is the former home of the Wegener Winery, which is apparently where London got the white wine he liked to drink with duck every night.

Terroir made visible: the soil cases at Benziger's tasting room

Today Benziger's famous for its tram tours, but it also offers some other new experiences that are worth a visit, if you've already had the vineyard tour and tasting.

Like many Sonoma vintners, Benziger's ventured into Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast vines. Its are located in Freestone, right next to Joseph Phelps. The winery makes three different Biodynamic Pinots from that single vineyard (as well as a few more), and displays the varied soil types in a beautiful case in the tasting room. You can see why each wine tastes so different. Visitors can book the new Pinot Noir tasting, housed in the winery's elegant, historic private tasting room, and taste five Pinots.

The Village


Drive back down the hill into the village, and you can wander awhile from tasting room to tasting room.  They're small and it doesn't cost a fortune to taste.

Talisman

I stopped in at Talisman, a Pinot house specializing in single vineyard designates. Winemaker Scott Rich got his start long ago working under Tony Soter at Etude.

Talisman does a beautiful job with Adastra's organically grown grapes (from the Carneros) and on Saturday just happened to be serving several vintages.























Korbin and Kameron 

Korbin and Kameron offers wine from  its estate vines, which are planted on the opposite side of Sonoma Valley in the Moon Mountain District. The winery was started in 1999 by Jenny Ming and her husband Mitchell Ming. Jenny Ming was formerly the head of Old Navy and has been a mover and shaker in the fashion retail industry.

Farmed by Phil Coturri, Korbin Kameron (the winery's named for two of the Mings' children) is in the process of transitioning to organic certification and will receive that this year. Two in-transition wines are its whisper light rosé and its Sauvignon Blanc. They were grown during the three year transition to certification when no chemicals are used.

Laurel Glen

My favorite of the organic grape vintners in Glen Ellen among the walk in tasting options is Laurel Glen. Sonoma's higher elevation Cabs compete with the best of Napa, and being on the Sonoma Mountain "vibration" for the day, this was the wine to pair with the day and the place. The vines are located a short distance above Glen Ellen on Sonoma Mountain (and are not marked nor open to the public). The Laurel Glen is restrained and lithe. Justly the Cabernet was awarded a 95 pt. score from Wine & Spirits. (Not that scores mean so much, but it's nice when the overblown Cabs don't hog all the high ones). The Laurel Glen tasting room is just off the main drag on Carquinez.

Further Afield - By Appointment - Lasseter Family Winery

If you're headed to Glen Ellen, don't miss a tasting and tour at Lasseter Family Winery (by appointment only). Disney and Pixar fans often already know all about the winery, but for wine lovers, too it's a must. And apparently for Bill Gates, as well, since, when I went a few weeks ago, our guide told us he'd been there the day before.

Its cobbly soils, remniscent of Bordeaux, produce wonderful red blends.  The tour includes generous cheese pairings as well (tasting, tour and pairing are $25). Not to put too fine a point on pricing, but the same experience and equally beautiful wine and cheese in Napa would easily cost double (or more). It just makes you appreciate Sonoma more. (And maybe it increases your ability to buy some of their wine.)

North Sonoma Mountain Regional Park

One more great reason to visit the area is the new park in the hood - the North Sonoma Mountain Regional Park, the Bay Area's newest park. It's part of the Bay Area Ridge Trail. The road up's a lovely, windy country drive which you won't soon forget - with vineyard vistas and horses and trees and all of nature's creations. When you get in the park and climb a short ways, there are killer views. I only had a chance to run up the hill briefly. But there will be a next visit - and soon.

Be sure to pick up a worthy bottle of wine from one of the tasting rooms and some artisanal cheeses from Sonoma from the local Glen Ellen market in town before you ascend to the mountaintop.

Glen Ellen's Second Annual Block Party - May 17

Four of Glen Ellen's tasting rooms are hosting a block party on Saturday May 17. Tickets are $20.

Wine club members from any of the four participating wineries get club privileges at all of the other participating Glen Ellen Block Party tasting rooms. Food's available from two food trucks - Tips Tri-Tips and Drums & Crumbs. There's be live music from two bands as well.

Postscript: I did return to the North Sonoma Mountain trailhead yesterday, May 3, and hiked to the Bennett Valley Overlook. I have to say, this is one of the greatest hikes I've explored in wine country - or the Bay Area for that matter. There are picture perfect views of Bennett Valley with vineyards and green fields and rolling hills and distant vistas. It makes you think you're on a European vacation. It reminded me of the views in the hills near Tivoli in Italy, the summer palace of the Roman emperors.

From the parking lot, it's a 2.2. mile hike to the turnoff for the overlook. The overlook is a few hundred yards further.

Directions: Heading out of the trailhead parking lot, take the trail that goes to Jack London State Park, which begins by crossing a creek and bridge amid redwoods. (There's a picnic table by the creek in the shade).

The trail then enters a beautiful meadow where views begin immediately, with picture perfect vistas of vineyards and a historic farmhouse below. You walk across the meadow for aways before starting to zig and zag up hillside switchbacks in the oak covered hillsides. Yes, it's a bit of a workout.

After 2.2 miles, there's a trail marker, pointing left/straight towards Jack London or right to the Bennett Valley Overlook. Take the overlook spur, which soon leads nearby powerlines. You can enjoy the view at the flat section of trail here, or proceed to the ridge top for further views.

It can be cool and windy up here - be sure to bring adequate gear.

And if you have a trail you'd like to nominate for Best Wine Country Hike, please add it here in the comments section.

Head to Hopland This Weekend, May 2-3: Good Deals and Good Times

Tired of all that fancy wine country stuff? Get thee to Hopland, for an unpretentious, good time and a lot of great wine - some at fabulous discounts during the event. Those discounts would more than pay for the $50 attendance fee (covers two days).

Hopland's Passport weekend is this weekend May 2-3, and the town's wineries put on quite a show. Holland's a mecca for organic vine lovers, with many small family run wineries with certified vines and wines.

No need to study wine history here - Hopland's alive with second, third and fourth generation vintners (including some who've never used chemicals) and down home folks.

The organically grown wines are all worthy of your attention - some more than others, but find out for yourself which ones you're drawn to. I'd say don't miss the three sparkling wines at McFadden (award winners all around) and the wines at Campovida are very fine indeed, made by Italian born Sebastian Donoso. Don't miss the garden tour at Campovida either - it's famous for many reasons. Master gardener Ken Boek will explain why.

If you're in the area, I'd also recommend visiting Saracina, another good spot for fine wines. They're not participating in this event, but are just next to Jeriko, and well worth experiencing. A little further to the north, you can also visit Barra of Mendocino and sample their wares, too (although they're not in Hopland per se; they're in Ukiah and so therefore cannot participate in the Passport program). I always appreciate a stop at the Ukiah Natural Foods market in Ukiah, too, which has one of the largest selections of organically grown wines in the country, reflecting the wealth of grapes nearby.

In addition to Passport, the Hopland Volunteer Fire Dept. and Beckstoffer Vineyards are putting on a the fire dept.'s annual BBQ dinner and dance Saturday night. Dinner is $20 for adults and $10 for kids over 6 with beer and wine on sale. The dinner gets started at 5; the dancing to live music begins at 8. Details here.

Here are a few of the vintners to put on your bucket list:

Wineries with Only Organically Grown Estate Wines

Jeriko Estate
Specializes in Pinot Noir; the vines and wines are Biodynamic
For Passport: usually puts on a great BBQ; this year's description calls for "mixed meats, cheeses and condiments" to pair with Pinot Noir and Sangiovese
Also features: barrel sampling, music and special wine prices

McFadden Vineyards 
Great table wines, and a standout for sparkling wines
For Passport: serves up organic grass fed beef, from its estate, with a red wine reduction of mushroom demo-glaze, assorted salads and sliced baguettes
Also features: 40% off sale for wine club members (the club is fully customizable so you can decide what you want to buy)

Terra Savia
Specializes in Chardonnay and sparkling wine; also has organic olive oil
For Passport: grilled Tri-tip in a  Pinot Noir sauce, with roasted beets and toasted walnuts, bowtie pasta and kale with pine nuts and goat cheese
Also features: dessert assortment from Pacific Cookie Company (chocolate cranberry, lemon and more)

Wineries With Some Organically Grown Wines

Campovida
A gorgeous retreat center featuring beautiful vegetable and ornamental gardens
For Passport: wine and olive oil tasting, live music and pizza pairings
Also features: special garden tour with master gardener Ken Boek (don't miss this; I've been on it - and it's great)
Organically grown wines here: Cabernet Sauvignon-Heart Arrow Ranch, Grenache-Dark Horse Ranch, White Bordeaux Blend-Campo di Stelle, Viognier-Campo Dos Robles

Cesar Toxqui
For Passport: Cesar Toxqui is a Mexican-American vintner who married a Filipino wife; hence, the winery will be serving traditional Filipino roasted pig and lumpia
Organically grown wines here: Zinfandel-Split Rock Ranch ($34)

Nelson Family Vineyards
A family of growers who also make a number of wines from their own vines
Organically grown wines here: Chardonnay, Orange Muscat, Pinot Grigio, Viognier

Our Organically Napa and Sonoma Apps Featured in Los Angeles Times

See the wonderful Earth Day article about our apps here.

Happy Earth Day: Celebrate With This Infographic

I'm happy to be able to share Wine Enthusiast's Earth Day infographic on organically and Biodynamically grown wines with you to celebrate Earth Day.

I consulted to Wine Enthusiast editor Marina Vataj who visualized, with her artist, Chris Delisle, a simple way to help people understand what green wines labels mean.

Thanks to all of the hundreds of farmers, winemakers and vintners who care so much about soil, vine balance. eco-friendly farming and wine to be organic and who understand why certification matters to consumers. Grow, baby, grow!

Source: Wine Enthusiast Magazine

The Organic Lover's Guide to Dry Creek Valley's Passport Weekend (April 24-26)

Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma's popular hot, sunny Zin and Rhone loving region just west of the town of Healdsburg, opens its door this weekend for three days of music, food and wine.

This is a fun, albeit crowded, way to experience this 16 mile long valley (2 miles wide) covered with 9,000 acres of vines. The region's wine history stretches back 140 years. Zinfandel is the local religion.

Sunday only tickets are already sold out; be forewarned that the entire area will be mobbed. (Drive carefully and don't ride a bike on Westside Road this weekend). If you're planning to attend, you may still purchase a two day Passport ticket for $140 per person which gets you free tasting and food on at the wineries from 11 to 4:30 on both days. Friday there is a quieter day planned with winemaker dinners and vineyard tours, but most are already sold out.

More information is available here.

While the Dry Creek Valley promotional web site says that the valley has "a majority of the producers following sustainable, organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyards," I'm not sure the facts actually back up that claim. "Sustainable" is a standard in the eye of the beholder (and in general, the beholder is the wine industry).

While Dry Creek Valley has 9,000 acres of vineyards, fewer than 400 acres are certified organic or biodynamic. The entire county of Sonoma has only 1,000 acres of organic vineyards out of 60,000 acres in vine.

What sets Dry Creek apart is the organic vineyards of just three of the largest producers with organic or biodynamic vineyards - Preston Farm and Winery (70 acres), Quivira Vineyards and Winery (88 acres), and Ridge Vineyards (157 acres).

In honor of Earth Day this week, raise a glass, and sample some of the wines from Dry Creek's organically farmed vines.

DaVero Vineyards and Winery
12 acres of organic and Biodynamic vines in Dry Creek Valley AVA

One of the first to make gourmet olive oil, DaVero uniquely grows wine varietals from Italy. A large olive tree graces the garden. Only Club members get their prized Sagrantino, but there's lots to entertain on the biodynamic vineyard and tasting room property which is conveniently located on Westside Road at the intersection with W. Dry Creek Valley Road. A visit to DaVero is a veritable agrotourism experience, where you can stroll to see pigs happily resting in their pig shack and perhaps see sheep in the fields. About half of the wines come from the estate's organic and biodynamic vines.
For Passport:  DaVero will be serving their own lamb, pork and veggies raised on the farm. One of the proprietors is a former gourmet chef; expect the food to be sensational. 

Martorana Family Vineyards
29 acres of organic vines in Dry Creek Valley AVA

The family started by making olive oil in the late 1990s and gravitated to wine. It's a great spot for relaxing by the creek where they have picnic tables on the edge of the banks. The easy going tasting room is in a cave structure nested inside a berm and has a living green roof. Everything is estate grown and organically farmed.
For Passport: The pizza oven will be fired up and cranking; there'll be live acoustic mandolin as well.

Quivira Vineyards & Winery*
88 acres of organic and Biodynamic vines in Dry Creek Valley AVA

One of Dry Creek's major Rhone hot spots, Quivira's focused on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre as well as the Dry Creek regulars - Zin, Zin and Zin. They're also famous for their Sauvignon Blanc and their Petite Sirah. About a third of their wines are grown organically and biodynamically and are bottle labeled with certification.
For Passport: To celebrate Rhone wines, taste southern French food. A small market will also be featured, with wares from local artisans. Don't miss the rosé.

Ridge Vineyards*
157 acres of organic vines in Dry Creek Valley AVA (and 47 acres more in Geyserville; and even more in other locations)
A classic, not to be missed winery that is one of the defining wineries of the region, Ridge was born from Sonoma's heritage vines and proudly carries the tradition forward today, making super wines at its Healdsburg and Geyserville sites. Some of the vines are more than 100 years old. And they're converting all of these vines to organic farming and labeling the new East Bench Zin with the words "organic grapes" for all to see.
For Passport: You can bet that Ridge has been searching for the perfect food pairing with Zin for decades. This year they're serving forth a Korean clay pot beef and spring onion dish along with Zin, Grenache and more.

* = Top Pick: Don't Miss

See where these and other wineries are on the Passport to Dry Creek Valley map here.

Preston Farm & Winery, another prominent Dry Creek Valley producer devoted to Rhone wines and Zinfandel, has 70 acres of organically grown vines (and certifies their wines). Hawley Winery has 9 acres of organic estate vines, and the focus is on Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet). Neither participates in Passport although Preston is open to visitors (as it is on a regular basis). Hawley has a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg open to visitors; vineyard tours are by appointment. In addition, Syrah specialist Montemaggiore, with 10 acres of vines, has for years been certified biodynamic (and is now transitioning to organic certification). Visits are by appointment.

Can't make it to Passport? You can, of course, visit any of these wineries the rest of the year. Most are featured in the Dry Creek Valley Green Trail, a listing of only organic or biodynamic producers. (It used to list "sustainable" ones). You can find a map of these producers here.

IN PHOTOS: Volker Eisele Memorial, Tribute to 47th Anniversary of Napa's Ag Preserve

Napa Valley's stars from the world of wine and politics turned out yesterday to honor the memory of Volker Eisele, the "lion of land use" in Napa who was a champion of protecting ag lands from over commercialization, a threat that continues today.

Eisele died in Jan. at the age of 78 from a stroke. (Here are some brief excerpts from an interview I did with him in the summer of 2014).

The memorial program featured brief remarks by U.S. Congressman Mike Thompson, who said Volker helped to get him elected and worked closely with him on legislative issues. Hugh Davies, whose father Jack Davies preceded Volker in land preservation leadership, spoke on behalf of the Jack L. Davies Napa Valley Ag Land Preservation Fund and its continuing efforts.

Author James Conaway, whose two classic books on Napa have chronicled the hard fought battles to preserve Napa's agricultural character, entertained the audience with the humorous story of his first meeting with Volker.

Napa County Supervisor Diane Dillon (a fifth generation Napa resident) thanked the Eisele family, as did others, for the time Volker spent on political battles.

Napa County Farm Bureau President Norma Tofanelli closed the program with a reminder that battles lie ahead in the protection of Napa's ag lands, calling for the attendees to continue the movement Volker and his allies created to preserve this precious region.

Note: Don't miss...Napa Broadcasting recorded an interview with James Conaway, reflecting on the past and present preservation challenges. You can listen to it here.

The event was held in the historic carriage
house at Charles Krug Winery (owned by the
Peter Mondavi family) in St. Helena

A crowd of wine industry and political leaders packed the hall

The program opened with a brief video tribute to Volker; the video will be posted
soon on the Napa Farm Bureau's web site and YouTube.

Host Marc Mondavi welcomed the group

Congressman Mike Thompson told several humorous stories that illustrated
Volker's tenacity in trying to rid his vineyard of wild pigs and wild turkeys

The reception outside featured classical music 

Guests mingled on the lawn amply supplied with food and drink, including
Volker's 2010 Cabernet

Symphony of the Soil: FREE STREAMING

This year is the United Nations' International Year of Soil. My friend Debra Koons Garcia is one of soil's true champions and her film Symphony of the Soil has won acclaim from farm folk as well as the Washington Post, Village Voice and the New York Times.

"This film raises the bar. It makes you care about our earth's precious skin, so rare among planets."
                                                                      -Barbara Damrosch, Washington Post

"Stimulating and visually engaging..."
                                                                      -John Oursler, Village Voice

"Unfolding with gentle joy and an unexpected beauty, this ode to the miracle of the Earth's topmost layer gives us a newfound respect for the ground beneath our feet."
                                                                      -Jeannette Catsoulis, New York Times

Deborah will be speaking at the U.S. Congress at a congressional briefing on the soil-carbon Connection, courtesy of Congressman Jarred Huffman who represents Marin County.

In honor of that occasion, she has decided to make the film free on Vimeo for two weeks, starting today. So be sure to see it and get that Earth-Day-feel-good glow! And tell your friends.

Your free screening comes with subtitles - Spanish ones for April 13-19 and French ones for April 20-26.

Enjoy.

If you don't make it for the free version, you can still rent the film on Vimeo or buy a DVD to share with others.

Our Visitors' Guide to Santa Cruz Mountains' Organic Wine Trail (April 18)

Four wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountains have teamed up to help visitors celebrate Earth Day by touring the Organic Wine Trail with special events offered on April 18.

While it's wonderful to bring attention to this undervisited region, it's also important to note how many of the wines at each destination are actually grown organically (a small minority in most cases). Be sure to pay special attention to these wines from these participating wineries (that are open to the public):

*** = 50-100% of production

• Cooper Garrod Vineyards (3,000 cases out of 3,000 total)

Cooper Garrod's current releases are from its organic vines. (It has older library wines that are not).

** = 10-50% of production

• Ridge Vineyards (10,000 cases out of 80,000 total; an additional 15,000 cases, including its flagship Monte Bello and Lytton Springs Zinfandel, are made predominantly [80-90%] from organic grape during the transition to full certification).

Ridge is now the biggest organic vineyard owner in both the Santa Cruz Mountains and Sonoma County with 277 acres (all of its estate vines) certified organic (or in the three year transition period to organic certification).

Ridge also sources from historic vineyard properties that it does not own.

Note: Although grape buyers can appeal to vineyard owners to certify their vineyards as organic, ultimately certification is the owner's decision. With historic vineyards, the leverage a winery has over getting grapes certified is harder to come by. (Turley is in the same boat - all of its estate vineyards are certified but historic vineyards it buys from may be farmed organically but not certified).

* = less than 10% of production

All of the one star wineries have small estate vineyards or buy grapes from a certified grower. They all buy the bulk of their grapes from nonorganic sources.

• Alfaro Family Vineyards (332 cases out of 10,000 total)
• Silver Mountain Vineyards (250-650 cases out of 3-5,000 total)

A Guide to the Wines

THREE STAR WINERIES

*** Cooper Garrod
Organic estate acres: 28
Bottle labeling: "Made with Organic Grapes"

• Cabernet Franc ($29)
• Cabernet Sauvignon-Lone Oak Vineyard ($32)
• Chardonnay-Gravel Ridge Vineyard ($29)
• Syrah-Finely Vineyard ($29)
• Viognier ($29)

TWO STAR WINERIES

** Ridge Vineyards

Organic estate acres: 277
Bottle labeling: "Ingredients: Organic Grapes" (East Bench only)

• Zinfandel-East Bench ($28)
• Zinfandel-Geyserville ($38)

In addition, the current releases of Ridge's Monte Bello Cabernet and the Lytton Springs Zindandel are both 80-90% organic.

ONE STAR WINERIES

* Alfaro Family Vineyards
Organic estate acres: 8
Bottle labeling: no certification on label

• Chardonnay-Mary Katherine Vineyard ($29)
• Gruner Veltliner-La Playita Vineyard ($25)
• Pinot Noir-Mary Katherine Vineyard ($35)

* Silver Mountain Vineyards
Organic estate acres: 10
Bottle labeling: Made with Organic Grapes

• Chardonnay-Estate ($38)
• Pinot Noir-Estate ($38)
• Pinot Noir-Miller Hill ($38)

Wine Industry's Widespread Use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoids "Sustainable"? European Commission Says No on Neonics; U.S. Companies Start to Test for Glyphosate in Food Products

NEONICS: LADYBUGS JOIN BEES

It ain't just the bees. Pity the poor ladybug as well, pesticide experts in the EU say, in their new report on the injurious effects of using neonicotinoids, an insecticide banned in Europe in an effort to help declining bee populations recover. The insecticides are used widely in the U.S. where there is no ban. Though they are predominantly used on corn seeds in the Midwest, neonicotinoids are also used widely in wine grape growing in California.

Yesterday the New York Times reported the following about a new report from European Union expert scientists on neonicotinoids:

"An influential European scientific body said on Wednesday that a group of pesticides believed to contribute to mass deaths of honeybees is probably more damaging to ecosystems than previously thought and questioned whether the substances had a place in sustainable agriculture."

The story went on to report:

"A growing body of evidence shows that the widespread use of the pesticides 'has severe effects on a range of organism that provide ecosystem services like pollination and natural pest control, as well as on biodiversity,' the report's authors said. 

Predatory insects like parasitic wasps and ladybugs provide billions of dollars' worth of insect control, they noted, and organisms like earthworms contribute billions more through improved soil productivity. All are harmed by the pesticides."

EU scientists had previously linked neonicotinoid use to health problems in humans, reporting that the chemicals affected children's developmental capacities.

Neonicotinoids are not prohibited under the Wine Institute's sustainable wine definitions nor under any other sustainability definition.

Here's where the neonics are used in California (on vineyards alone).

Latest state data mapped by the state's Dept. of Public Health showing the use of neonicotinoids in wine grapes in California

One of the most intense concentrations of neonic use in the North Coast is the area around Healdsburg and Geyserville, as you can see in the map below. Another area of intense use is along Highway 29 in Napa.

An earlier report on Dutch birds also pointed to the severe damage done to bird populations by the use of neonicotinoids, where university researchers found that as many as 35% of farmland birds died over a 10 year period due to low levels of neonicotinoids releasing into water supplies.

SPRING SPECIAL: NOW TESTING FOR GLYPHOSATE

Also in the news, today's Reuters Health reports that labs are getting lots of new business from the recent announcement by the United Nations' World Health Organization (WHO) that Roundup and its main, active ingredient glyphosate, are probably carcinogenic. Wrote Reuters:

"Scientists says requests spiked after a World Health Organization research unit said last month it was classifying glyphosate as 'probably carcinogenic to humans.'"

The story reported that testing is revealing the presence of glyphosate in honey, soy sauce, infant formula and breast milk.

Glyphosate is a giant in wine grape pesticides used in California. More than 645,000 lbs. were applied in 2012, according to the California Dept. of Pesticide Regulation. (California has more than 500,000 acres of vineyards).

The map below shows the application of one of the most popular forms of glyphosate.

WINEWISE: WHAT TO BUY 

If you LIKE insecticides and herbicides being used massively over the state, by all means, keep buying that non-organically grown wine on the supermarket shelf. Support the growers who put these chemicals into our ecosystems in the soil, air and water.

Otherwise, it's worth your while to seek out alternatives, grown by people who care about not using toxics. And when it comes to wine, you won't pay any more - there's no price premium to buy the ones that are organically grown. 

Can't find organically grown wines on the shelves? Talk to your supermarket's wine director about getting some of the GOOD, organically grown table wines in the store. There's no reason for stores not to offer plenty of alternatives. They just have to make the effort and work with their distributors. So, don't suffer from bad Choice A or bad Choice B. Get the great wines - from affordable to collector quality - on the shelves.

TAPAS: America's Tempranillo Producers' Grand Tasting April 26

Spanish varietals grown in California rarely get their due, but April 26 is your chance to redress this imbalance and discover or pay homage to producers from the U.S. who grow climate appropriate wine grapes and make stellar wines (including Albarino, Grenache and Tempranillo).

The Tempranillo Advocates Producers and Amigos Society holds its grand tasting April 26 at the Golden Gate Club in the Presidio (with fabulous Bay views). Tickets are now on sale - $45-75 - depending on the number of events selected. Don't miss the Tempranillo Shoot Out comparing top Spanish and American tempranillos. 

(Volunteers are still needed, so you could also attend for free if you are willing to participate in this way.)

TAPAS producers who make organically grown wines include:

• Bokisch (Albarino, Graciano, Grenache)

• Castoro Cellars (Grenache, Tempranillo)

• Martian Ranch & Vineyards (Grenache, Tempranillo)

• Upper Five Vineyards (Tempranillo)

• Verdad (Albarino, Grenache Rosé, Tempranillo)

For details on the tasting, click here.

IN PHOTOS: Saturday Seminars - Savoring the Great American Rhones

The Rhone Rangers two day extravaganza this past weekend featured two morning seminars, both led by Wine & Spirits magazine editor Patrick Comiskey, the author of the forthcoming book American Rhones, which U.C. Press is publishing.

Both featured an all star lineup of Rhone winemakers from California.

The first seminar was on rosés, the second on ageworthy Rhones

Bob Lindquist's Marsannes - featured on the left - dramatically
 illustrate the effects of aging Marsanne

The 2013 (left) and 2005 Marsanne (right)
from Qupé (Santa Ynez Valley AVA) -
a world of difference in appearance and
taste; you might want to start buying more
Marsanne for aging, Lindquist suggested.

Neil Collins from Tablas Creek (left) described the
original vision for Tablas Creek (planted in 1992)t
 that he observe now coming to fruition after 20+ years.
On the right is David Gates from Ridge Vineyards.

The two middle wines are the Esprit de Beaucastel (2003)
in the back; the front middle is the Esprit de Tablas (2012);
both are blends of Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache, and Counoise.
On the right are the 2002 and 2012 Ridge Vineyards'
Petite Syrahs.

The 2003 Esprit

After tasting the 2022 Ridge Petite Sirah, I
finally see what all the fuss was about...
Petite rocks! And isn't that what a great tasting
should do - open your eyes? Mission accomplished.