LA Times Wine of the Week: Cowhorn's Biodynamically Grown Syrah!

Congratulations to Cowhorn for getting a Wine of the Week pick from the LA Times (where my former, when-we-lived-in-Rockridge next door neighbor S. Irene Virbilia is the wine critic) for its Syrah.

This biodynamically certified vineyard and its excellent winery, which grows only Rhone varietals, are favored by many, including Wine Spectator's Matt Kramer. Robert Parker's rated their higher priced reserve Syrah 91 pts.

It's a fabulous place - see these photos from my trip there.

And savor the moment! This is a very impressive kudo.

Winemaker ("I'm not a winemaker") Bill and Barbara Steele have been long time financial experts helping organic farms manage the business side of their operations.   Former Marin County residents, they moved to southern Oregon to start their vineyard and were biodynamic from the start - and now, in a quiet way, have become a poster child for biodynamic practices in an area (southern Oregon) where they are the only organic winery around.

So there's all the more reason to celebrate their success!

Superlative growing practices can yield attention-getting results.

Cowhorn 2011 Wine Releases

Cowhorn Wine celebrated the release of two of its new wines yesterday at a wine club party at the winery  (in southern Oregon).

You can order the 2011 Spiral 36 and the 2011 Sullivan Steele Sauvignon Blanc starting now. Both are highly recommended.

Spiral 36 ($28) - a white Rhone blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne - tends to sell out, so be forewarned and belly up to the bar now if you want to be sure to get some. Food & Wine magazine called it one of Oregon's top wines.

In contrast to its famous, northern Pinot Noir cousins, southern Oregon doesn't get much attention and Cowhorn is one of the few to grow Rhone varietals. However the climate is California-like with hot, dry weather in the area near Jacksonville, an hour drive northeast of tourist mecca Ashland.

The Sauvignon Blanc ($22) is a collaboration with a grower/neighbor Terry Sullivan in nearby Talent, Oregon, who grows organically grown Sauvignon Blanc.

All Cowhorn wines are made from certified biodynamic grapes.

Like me, Wine Spectator wine critic Matt Kramer is a big fan of Cowhorn's wines.

For more on Cowhorn, check out this post from 2011 or visit their web site.

Cowhorn Vineyard - A Lil Piece of Southern Oregon Heaven

I was in Ashland all last week on vacation (if watching 10 plays in 5 days can be called a vacation) and on the 6th day I "rested" by taking a trip down some country roads to the delightful biodynamic Cowhorn Winery nestled in a lovely little valley in the Applegate Valley.

The winery, started by two beer drinkers who knew nothing about wine, was originally going to be just a farm, where the Steeles would raise food, but after purchasing the property, they discovered much of the site was ideal for wine grapes, among other crops. And thus, their winery was born.

The Steeles grow Rhone varietals in the hot, rocky soil of this former river bed, along the banks of the Little Applegate River.

If you're visiting Ashland, it's about an hour to this country lane, where blackberry bushes crowd the road's edge (you might find some the birds overlooked) - a reminder of the Steele's first 18 months on their land, in 2003, clearing nothing but blackberry bushes, old metal parts, and brush before they could plant their first crops.

Today they grow and sell thousands of tons of fruits and vegetables, most of which is sold at the Ashland Food Coop.

They purchased their land after having lived in Novato (in Marin County) in the Bay Area and having developed a relationship with Capay Valley's organic farmers. 

Barbara and Bill Steele left Novato for this sweet spot nestled in a valley in southern Oregon...it was the site of  cattle and cattlefeed farm that lay fallow for 15 years when they purchased the 117 acre property. It's surrounded by thousands of acres of BLM land, and no neighboring vineyards that spray pesticides (no vineyards at all in this little microclimate.)

The entrance to the low-key, laidback winery - where beer drinking Barb and Bill went to grow food - and discovered that wine grapes were the perfect crop (among others) for their rocky, sun-baked soils

Bill Steele with the vineyard in the background; 17 acres are planted in Rhone varietals including Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne as well as Grenache and Syrah.

Organic viticultural rock star Alan York is the consulting viticulturalist in this biodynamic vineyard. The grape vines were so vigorous that they yielded fruit in one year (not the usual three).

A lovely outdoor patio has a beautiful view of the vineyards. Birds abound.

Barbara Steele had to rush to get the winery built in year 1 - ahead of schedule - as no one had expected the grape vines to bear fruit until year 3.

Viognier...

And more viognier - it goes into Cowhorn's Spiral 36 white Rhone blend (a wine that will be featured in my Organic Wine Uncorked app)

Bill Steele shows the roads on the property which delineate both different soils and varying crops. The farm also grows Asian pears and cherries as well as asparagus.

Bill Steele says "I'm not a winemaker" although he does make the wine here. "It's all native yeasts - we just keep the temperatures right inside the winery for fermentation to proceed. And then we age and bottle."

The current lineup of wines: the reserve Syrah, Syrah, Grenache and Spiral 36 (white Rhone blend). Matt Kramer of the Wine Spectator recently wrote about the wines of Cowhorn as one of his new interests.

The Littel Applegate River in Applegate Valley (where Cowhorn is located) has, unlike California wine country, abundant water - and the Steeles' property has excellent water rights.

Coming soon: videos of Cowhorn - stay tuned!

The Summer of Grenache, Continued: $20 and Up

There seems to be some kind of a summer of riesling thing happening. But as for me, different drummer and all that, grenache has caught my fancy and I've been exploring the organically grown American options.

Earlier this week, I blogged about the impressive Under $20 category. Today, I'm forging onward in the Summer of Grenache to the Over $20 category.

I've got one more to add to the $20 and Under List:

• 2007/8 Estate Grenache, Beckmen Vineyards (originally $25/on sale for $19.99)

Beckmen's estate vineyards are organic, while the Purisima Mountain vineyard is biodynamic. The Purisima Mountain grenache is almost twice the price of the estate grenache and is no longer available from the winery. However, you can find a few last cases online.

Parker's understandably a big fan of Beckmen, which includes both this grenache and its biodynamic cousin. Parker calls the 2008 vintage (no longer available) a "very attractive bargain." I agree. I just ordered a case, since this appears to be the end of the line for the bargain priced estate grenache which I guess will have to be "Mature" and ready to consume. No waiting!

Parker's 2008 notes:

The least expensive Grenache and a very attractive bargain is the 2008 Estate Grenache. This displays more strawberry, red currant, and cherry notes, with some earth, lavender, and subtle herbaceousness. Dark ruby, medium-bodied, with nice texture, this is a wine to drink over the next 2-3 years. 

$20-$30 Price Range

• 2009 Cote de Tablas Paso Robles, Tablas Creek, $30 (elsewhere down to $25 online for 2009/$22 for other vintages)

Paso Robles-based Tablas Creek should, given its Rhone family ownership make a fantastic Grenache. After all, the winery was created and is co-owned by a famous Rhone producer, the Perrin family. So it's no surprise that it makes a lovely grenache-syrah-counoise-mourvedre blend that is a Cote du Rhone taste-alike.

Parker rated the current vintage a whopping 93 points. The winemaker says it's the winery's most intense Cote de Tablas Rouge ever, given the low yields in the harvest during 2009, the third consecutive drought year.

In past years Parker, who has been a fan of the Perrin's French wines for decades and Tablas Creek's as well, has consistently given various Tablas Creek vintages scores between 88 and 93; Vinography likes it, too, rating it 9 (out of 10) points. Parker's notes (reprinted from the Tablas Creek web site): 

Charmingly fruity, supple and fun to drink, exhibiting ripe plum, black cherry and wild berry fruit that’s smooth and layered, with a long, fruity finish. Grenache, Syrah, Counoise and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2017

In previous months, the Tablas Creek web site featured this from Parker:

This California Côte du Rhône look-alike, made from 42% Grenache, 21% Syrah, 20% Counoise (which must be an all-time high for that varietal in a Rhône Ranger blend), and 17% Mourvèdre, displays the earthier side of Rhône Rangers. Spicy, dark berries intermixed with underbrush, forest floor, pepper, and soy are followed by a medium-bodied, earthy wine in contrast to the more fruit-driven 2007. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. 

I laid in a good supply of this lovely wine on a recent visit to the winery. I'm waiting awhile to drink it.


$30-$40

• 2009 Grenache 80, Cowhorn ($30)

Why do they call it 80? Because that's the number of days of frost this poor Rhone grape had to endure in southern Oregon, but endure it did. 

Cowhorn's got a great reputation for biodyamic wines. I'm looking forward to tasting it in person at the winery when I get up to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival later this summer. I'll let you know then how it's tasting.

• 2007 Grenache, Ampelos Cellars ($35)

I couldn't find any tasting notes on their web site or online but it's recorded here for posterity and for the sake of comprehensiveness.

Ampelos' estate wines are biodynamic.

• 2008 Grenache, Tablas Creek, $32 (sold out)

While we await the new release, here are Parker's notes from the last (sold out) vintage:

The same earthiness, underbrush and Provençal herbs/garrigue notes [as the Cote de Tablas] are found in the 2008 Grenache. It is medium-bodied, not as lush and textured as the 2007, but very well made.

• 2007 Grenache Purissima Mountain Vineyard, Qupe ($35) 

Before Qupe bought its own biodynamic vineyard (Sawyer Lindquist) in Edna Valley, it sourced its grenache from the Beckmen family's biodynamic Purisima Mountain vineyard. 

Qupe's now shifting over to its own Edna Valley vineyard so this may be the last vintage produced by Qupe from Purisima Mountain. 

$40-50

I find it rather amazing that this price category exists for grenache, but...it does.

• 2008 Adamo, AmByth Estate ($45)


In Paso Robles, one of the few other organic (actually it's biodynamic) wineries is Ambyth Estate, which also makes a very lovely GSM blend with a touch of counoise. The winery's tasting notes:


"...fruity, cherry-packed wine has strawberries and warm summer fruits with a dash of black pepper on the nose."

• 2008 Purissima Mountain Vineyard Grenache, Beckmen ($48/2007 is $39)

Robert Parker is a huge fan of this grenache as well, rating it 91 points:

More impressive, but nearly twice the price, is the 2008 Grenache Purisma Mountain Vineyard. This is an outstanding example of Grenache from the Santa Ynez Valley. Beautiful kirsch liqueur, lavender, spice box, and sweet black currants jump from the glass of this deep ruby/plum-colored wine. In the mouth, raspberries make an appearance in a rich, full-bodied, silky textured wine that is both hedonistic and intellectually pleasing. This is a super example of Grenache that should drink nicely for another 4-6 years. 

...This corroborates past performances over the last decade that Beckman is one of the best producers from Santa Ynez."

Five Great Summer Wines - Organically Grown, Under $20

My new book Drink Green: 101 Organically Grown Wines for $20 or Less will feature the best American wine values that are organically or biodynamically grown.

Here's a sneak peak at some of the world class wine listings:

1. Albarino, Verdad, biodynamic, $18
2. Tocai Friulano, Cooper Mountain, biodynamic, $14 (free shipping on $200+ orders)
3. Muscat Canelli, Barra, organic, $16
4. Vermentino, Tablas Creek, organic, $15 (older vintages available online)
5. Grenache Rose, Cowhorn, biodynamic, $19

To learn more about when the book comes out, sign up to receive blog postings via email. It's coming in May or June!