Book Your Hotel, Empty the Trunk! Mendocino's Passport Weekend - Oct. 20-21 - Best Budget Priced Organically Grown Wine Sale! (And Free Food)

The scene at McFadden's tasting room (peak moment)
at Passport last year. You can see it's a popular event -
visit yourself to find out why (- i.e. price, quality).

As I've mentioned before, Hopland's Passport weekend is, in my mind, the best tasting AND shopping trip of the year. It's held in the spring and in the fall, and has the highest percentage of any wine event in the state of organic and biodynamically grown wines.

In general, Napa wines contain as much as 100% Mendo grapes, often unattributed to Mendo (Chateau Montelena's Chardonnay and Riesling, for example) - but the growers in Mendo have begun to bottle their own - and sometimes very, very good - wines. Vinification varies so find what you like. BUT - the wines below are all GREAT. (Or I wouldn't have listed them.)

Best of all, Mendo prices are often in the $12-20 range, making them perfect for affordable drinking year round. You cannot find these wines in supermarkets (outside of Mendo, for the most part) with a few exceptions, so find what you like and hit the sales. Markdowns during Passport are 25% or up to 40% or more.

(The most dramatic bargain I've scored - and it was highly unusual -  was $100 for a case - of organically grown Zin at Cesar Toxqui.)

Naughty Boy Cellars, newly located in downtown Hopland, will be showing the fantastic wine documentary Mondovino (Wikipedia listing). Don't miss this. (Or stream it at home online while you relax with a glass of wine.)

I'm posting the link to my 2011 post about the event here.

PAM'S SUPER QUICK GUIDE

There are 16 wineries who participate, but most are not organic.

For those who just want the organic highlights and have only one day to spend there (it's only a two hour drive door to door from Oakland, for instance), hit these high points:

Hopland Passport organizer and McFadden tasting room
manager Jon Cesano pours at McFadden

1. DOWNTOWN HOPLAND

McFadden - Buy at least a case of the sparkling wine. (Join the wine club and just tell them what you want and when -  they are flexible and will work with you on your preferences - totally).

Naughty Boy - Has a new tasting room in Hopland next to McFadden. Get a case or two of their rose. (The pinot used to win awards. The Chardonnay is not organic.) Try the Pinot Noir...it's very affordable.

Cesar Toxqui Cellars - A very good option, this winery - as the name implies - is run by a Mexican-American vintner with great talent. Some options are organically grown. (Ask which ones). Famed for Zin, but their Pinot was also highly regarded by Hugh Johnson. See what's good this year. Usually has phenomenal sales.

Nearby: Terra Savia - A great place for Chardonnay lovers. Buy a case or two. Get some of their sparkling wine, too.

Rack and Riddle - get the sparkling wine tour and see where the McFadden and Terra Savia sparkers are made. (R&R will be marketing an organically sources wine under their own brand soon but I don't think it's out quite yet. Check at the winery.)

2. ROUTE 101 (NORTH OF HOPLAND)

Saracina - Visit the cool caves, find the wine you like best. Doing the Mexican thing with a street truck and Cinco de Mayo dancers. A beautiful spot. Prices a bit on the higher end but beautifully done. Consulting winemaker is the renowned David Ramey.

Jeriko - Wines aren't great but the BBQ might be the thing.

3. A MILE AWAY

Campovida is getting more organic. Go for a stroll in their spectacular garden, the former site of a famous vegetable garden that got everyone on the organic bandwagon in the 70s and gave rise to organic wine supermarket giant Bonterra nearby (not open to the public). Today the garden is a fantastic ornamental garden. (Taste, but their prices aren't great so I don't usually buy here.)

WHERE TO STAY

If you have enough budget to stay in a nice place, the Hopland Inn is no longer an option, but I recommend booking a place on AirBNB or HomeAway.com or reserving a spot at Vichy Springs Inn in Ukiah (about 10 minutes from Hopland).

Several organic wineries offer rentals as well including Terra Savia and Testa. (I wouldn't send you to one where there were pesticides). Here's a list of more options.

DETAILS

See the official site here. Don't miss the menus posted there - lots of great free food (for Passport participants).

Local eateries: Bluebird Cafe (folksy, big breakfasts, moose on the menu at lunch and dinner, and those pies) and Campovida's Pizza joint in downtown Hopland, a really great addition to the local scene, with both brews and wines and gourmet pizzas. Sit outside if it's warm enough and enjoy the fine views across the valley from the back of the patio.

If you're up for a gourmet meal and a drive, head over to Anderson Valley (45 min. plus) for a fine meal at the Boonville Inn, or head an easy 30 minutes south on 101 to Geyserville where you can sample the wares at the Italian beauty Di Avola, where they serve organically grown Chiarito wine (Nero d'Avola or Negra Amaro are the best); you may have to ask for the wines by name as they sometimes are not on the wine menu (but they definitely have it behind the counter).

[Though uncertified, Chiarito is making some of the best organically grown wine in the hot interior Mendo region, basing his varietal selection on what's climate-appropriate - southern Italian varietals.]

Check out SIP Mendocino, the local wine bar and wine store, in downtown Hopland to find bottles from wineries that aren't open during Passport including Patianna, Chiarito and others. Wine tastings may be available, on selected bottles. The wine merchant here is intimately acquainted with area organic offerings, so ask if you want help.

Mendo Wine Winners: Listed By Varietal

REDS

Bordeaux Blend (2)
Bonterra's flagship wine over the new/old Testa, which has been growing for decades, but bottling under their own name only recently.
Double Gold
Bonterra McNab, 2006
Bronze
Testa, Black (blend with Cabernet)

Cabernet Sauvignon (4)
Gold
Paul Dolan, 2010
Bronze
Barra, 2009
Bonterra, 2010
Terra Savia, 2009

Carignane (2)
This is an impressive debut for Testa's Carignane.
Double Gold
Testa, 2010
Bronze
Frey (NSA), NV

Charbono (1)
An old Italian varietal showcased.
Double Gold
Testa, 2010

Italian Varietals (2)
Chiarito's dry farmed, organic vineyard produced high quality deep flavors.
Double Gold
Chiarito, 2009 Nero D'Avola (not certified but organic)
Silver
Chiarito, 2009 Negramoro

Malbec (1)
A boutique, small production of 100% Malbec.
Silver
Saracina, 2010

Merlot (1)
Bronze
Bonterra, 2010

Petite Sirah (1)
Silver
Chiarito, 2009

Pinot Noir (8)
A surprising "Gold" for Girasole.
Double Gold
Handley - Anderson Valley (Estate), 2009
Gold
Girasole, 2010
Silver
Barra, 2009
Bonterra, 2010
Paul Dolan - Filigreen, 2007
Paul Dolan - Potter Valley, 2009
Bronze
McFadden, 2007
Naughty Boy, 2009

Red Blends (3)
Silver
Paul Dolan, Deep Red, 2008 (Petit Sirah, Primativo, Syrah, Grenache)
Bronze
Bonterra, The Butler, 2007 (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre)
Testa, Black, 2009

Rose (4)
Yorkville Cellars' rose is on the sweet side; the others are relatively dry.
Gold
Testa (Carignane), 2011
Silver
Barra, 2011
Naughty Boy, 2011
Yorkville Cellars, 2011

Zinfandel (3)
It's surprising that Zins haven't done better in Mendo.
Silver
Bonterra, 2009
Patianna, 2009
Paul Dolan, 2010

WHITES

Chardonnay (7)
More surprises - Bonterra's takes the top spot; and McFadden takes a silver, as high as benchmark Chardonnay producer Handley.
Double Gold
Bonterra, 2010
Silver
Barra, 2010
Frey, 2010
Handley Cellars, 2010
McFadden, 2010
Bronze
Girasole, 2010
Paul Dolan, 2010

Gewurztraminer (1)
Silver
McFadden, 2009

Muscat (1)
Warning: This one's way too sweet for my taste. (Girasole's sister wine, Barra, has a muscat that is better.)
Silver
Girasole, 2011

Pinot Blanc (1)
A notable achievement.
Gold
Girasole, 2010

Pinot Gris (1) 
Silver
McFadden, 2011

Riesling (1)
Silver
McFadden, 2010

Sauvignon Blanc (6)
All three top winners are very different - you might enjoy a taste-off comparison tasting.
Gold
Patianna, 2010
Paul Dolan, 2011
Saracina, 2011
Silver
Bink, 2011
McFadden, 2009
Yorkville Cellars, 2011

Viognier (2)
The Bonterra is a personal favorite of mine - particularly in the summer.
Gold
Bonterra
Bronze
Campovida

Sparkling (2)
My favorite go to sparkling wine is the McFadden, of course. (I have never seen the Patianna for sale anywhere, but would like to try it.)
Double Gold
McFadden Brut (NV)
Silver
Patianna, 2008

The Best Wine Buying Trip of the Season: The Organically Grown Wines at Hopland Passport (Oct. 22-23)

Hopland's Passport is the only regional wine festival in California where you can sample more organically grown than pesticide-raised wines!

Make sure your trunk is EMPTY when you go - this event is also one of the best ways to stock up on wines that are organically grown - and affordable due to the special discounts that are offered during the spring and fall Passport weekends.

I'd plan two buying trips a year - one in fall and one in spring - around Passport. It costs $45 for tickets (purchased online in advance; otherwise, pay $55 at any of the wineries) and you can easily recoup that in food and tastings alone. What makes it even better is the amazing discounts offered at a number of the leading vintners who make organically grown wine.

Here's "Pam's Guide" to what to prioritize on your weekend visit.

• WHERE TO STAY
I recommend staying in Ukiah (10 minutes north of Hopland) at the Motel 6 - $40 a night - if you want to prioritize spending the money on wine instead of a room (which I do). I stayed there in the spring and while it was indeed no frills, it was clean, safe and very quiet and the clerk was one of the friendliest and nicest I have ever met.

If you like hot springs, check out Vichy Springs hotel ($195 a night - pricey but a favorite) or the primitive and remote Orr Hot Springs.

Many big chain hotels in the $90-100 a night range can also be found in Ukiah (Quality, Comfort, etc.).

WHERE TO EAT

If you don't mind driving, the best places are Diavola in Geyserville (about 30 minutes south of Hopland) or Table 128 at the Boonville Hotel in Anderson Valley (an hour drive from Hopland). (Can you tell I prefer to spend more on the dinner and wine than the hotel?)

Right in Hopland, don't miss the Bluebird Diner (a local fave and a fun spot) or the new pizza joint. In Ukiah, there's Patrona (the fancy in town place) or Oco Time for sushi - both have a wide selection of Mendo's organically grown wines.

• WHERE TO TASTE AND BUY

The wineries with green underlining or bars are 100% organic - i.e. all their wines are organically grown. This includes (in order of Must-See-Ness):

TOP PICKS

Saracina*** - the most impressive winemaking team in Mendocino's Sanel Valley (Ukiah-Hopland corridor as opposed to Anderson Valley's Pinot Country) - gourmet in every way - what they produce is beautiful. The Sauvignon Blanc is a top pick in the under $20 category.

Run by industry icon John Fetzer, Saracina is raising the bar on vinification in Mendocino County - with the expert help of Napa legend David Ramey who is the consulting winemaker - and succeeding. Plus they have a great cave tour and could not be more convenient (right next to 101). Classy. Check out the modern take on ancient amphora - very au courant.


Terra Savia*** - Don't judge a wine by the winery tour. Terra Savia's been making lovely, affordable Chardonnays for generations - and their bubbly also kicked ass at this year's Mendocino County Wine Competition - tying for first place with French-owned and run champagne firm Roederer Estate of Anderson Valley.

The winery itself is a big warehouse, shared with an olive oil company (a hugely and increasingly popular combo around the state) with a selection of high-end olive oils.

During Passport, Terra Savia opens its doors to local crafts people/friends who offer their wares in the cavernous warehouse.

I am also fond of the winery's red wines - its Meritage is a very good value. Be sure to visit winemaker/proprietor Jim Milone out in his private tasting room/shed for a taste of his high-end, limited distribution Hoplander - a Cabernet that should give Napa the willies (because Hoplander is priced very reasonably).

Jim Milone rightfully calls himself a fourth-generation vigneron, a rare claim to fame in California, because he both grows the grapes and makes the wines, organically, as his Italian family has done for a 100 years in the same Hopland location, a minute off of 101 and next door to Rack and Riddle.

Since Terra Savia is not open to the public regularly (it is open by appointment), and because it puts on such a festive scene at Passport, seeing it during Passport is a good opportunity to enjoy the winery and some hoopla.

WINE BUYING - Usually they offer some discounts during Passport. Take advantage of them. I'd stock up on the Reserve Chardonnay for sure, but take your pick. It's all good stuff and mostly under $20.

McFadden Vineyards*-*** - McFadden has been growing organically up in Potter Valley (about 10-15 miles north of Hopland) for more than 40 years. While you can't visit the actual vineyards, they do have a very conveniently located tasting room in Hopland.

WINE BUYING -  I would definitely snag remaining cases of their wonderful bubbly which made a very impressive showing in the Mendocino County Wine Competition in 2010 - placing ahead of world famous French champagne makers Roederer Estate from Anderson Valley - a feat not easily accomplished. I myself have bought no less than four cases of the 2011 vintage.

McFadden usually has some incredible discount deals during Passport - so don't miss out!

FOOD BUYING - Since McFadden also raises grass fed cattle on its farm, you can definitely find lovely BBQ on hand at Passport - and you can even buy some beef to take home. I love taking it out of the freezer months later and thinking fondly of which McFadden wine I want to pair with it. This year proprietor Guinness McFadden will be out back BBQing up a storm.

McFadden also makes a very, very lovely Riesling, along with many other fine wines.

OTHER PICKS

Cesar Toxqui*-***
Cesar makes a number of fabulous wines, including a Pinot Noir noted English wine god Hugh Johnson praises in his bestselling pocket guide. However, many of Cesar's wines come from grapes that are either not organically grown or not certified, so it's always necessary to check with him on where the grapes for any particular wine came from.

WINE BUYING
At the spring Passport, Cesar had an unbeatable special on a case of Zin (organically raised but not certified) for $100 - wow. It's a lovely wine. I also have some of their Pinot - sometimes sourced from biodynamically certified grapes. Just ask what's what.

Jeriko* - A lovely spot - where the BBQ will be great - but not one of my favorite wineries. However, their first crop of biodynamically grown wines is coming out for the first time, so that would be worth a stop.

Green means "all wines made are organically grown"; yellow means "a few organically grown wines so be sure to ask"

Other wineries to consider (in order of a worthiness of a visit) - that have at least one organically grown wine:

TOP PICKS

Rack and Riddle - Since Rack and Riddle came to town, many Mendo wineries have discovered the joy of offering bubbly and the world is a better place for it - McFadden, Terra Savia, Jeriko, and Paul Dolan now all offer sparkling wines, opening up new markets and giving the old guard (the French-owned wineries in America) a run for the money - most have been selling out each year well before the following years' releases are available.

It's a rare treat to get inside Rack and Riddle since the facility is not open for individual tours. If you have a group of 6+, you can call ahead for a tour, but the facility is open during Passport which is good.

Campovida - more is organic, than used to be - you might think all their wines are from their green marketing spin - but the site is a modern, stylish destination retreat center. (It's especially sad that most of the wines are not organic as the site was the birthplace of Mendo's organic wine making movement in the Fetzer days.)

Since the original flower and vegetable gardens - formerly of Fetzer/Bonterra - were the landmark that led Mendo's winemaking community on to the organic path - stop in to see the garden for sure! Ask at the winery where the garden is - you can easily miss it since the location is not beside the tasting room area.

In the past, I have had many wine pourers at Campovida assure me things were organic when they were not, so be sure to ask to see the CCOF label certification or keep asking until you get a manager if you want to verify. (Don't fall for the sustainability rap if it's not organic.)

Nelson Family Vineyards - the new generation of this generations-old winemaking family is, like many of their age, taking a deep dive into organic and is currently in transition to becoming organically certified. Stay tuned. While the food they're going to be serving is organic, the wine is in transition - and that would be a good thing.

ALSO VISIT IN THE UKIAH AREA

Just north of Hopland:
Nearby recommendations that are all organic: Barra of Mendocino (great Muscat, and more) and Parducci, where you can taste organic Paul Dolan wines. These are right up Route 101. A little further on, you can visit the Redwood Valley wineries - Frey and others - but call to see if they're open.


Another local favorite is Testa - call to make an appointment. Their rose is great. Their "Red" took high honors in the Mendocino Wine Competition and is also organic (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon). Testa is one of the most storied and historically authentic spots to visit - it's makes the Ken Burns Prohibition series come to life! (Since the Testa family made wine all through Prohibition and has the old stills and winemaking tools in the basement - which you can visit.)

BUYING AT THE UKIAH COOP - BEST ORGANICALLY GROWN WINE SELECTION IN THE STATE

No buying trip would be complete without a stop at the Ukiah Coop in Ukiah, which has one of the best organically grown wine selections in the entire state.

I always make a point of stopping in to stock up on Testa's Rose, Naughty Boy Rose, and Trinafour Muscat and Carignan, and other wines - all are very fine, smaller producers that are hard to find out of the area. Plus, there's always something new to explore on the Ukiah Coop's wine shelves.

IF YOU GO
Let me know if you go to Passport and send me your photos!

Saracina's Latest Release - Chardonnay

According to winemaker Alex MacGregor, in this video, this is the first Chardonnay to come off the original Sundial Chard vineyard since about 1989...anyway, it's the opposite in every way (form old overoaked Chard style born in that vineyard)...light, fresh, unoaked, organic, with tropical fruit...

I tasted it Sunday at the Family Winemakers of California event at Fort Mason in SF - beautiful.

Check out the video here:

Family Winemakers of California: The Organically Grown Among Them

The folks at Urban Legend (proprietor Steve Shaffer on the left) have the SB as well as a Lake County Riesling with grapes that are in transition to being certified

Voss was new to me - this one's got newly certified grapaes

You can sample the Voss Sauvignon Blanc at Napa Wine Co., says Voss marketing and sales coordinator Crista Johnson. The grapes are just about to be certified (this is the third year on the path to certification).

I hadn't met the folks at Canihan before either...they've got some pretty impressive awards under their belt

Looking forward to visiting Canihan soon - they're in Sonoma. That's Bill Canihan on the right.

Adastra of Carneros

The folks at legendary Calera have just started putting Certified Organic on their back label - Marta Rich shows it off with panache

Josh Jensen of Calera holds up a bottle of their Viognier (I can put their half bottles in my new app since they're under $20)

That would be Calera - for how many years now?

Bucklin and his infamous field blend map dating back to the mid 1800s

Richard Arrowood's Amapola Creek from Sonoma

Another label that I didn't know about and didn't know was organic - Audelessa - from Glen Ellen; Parker's a fan

Oakland's Aubin/Verve makes a Pinot Noir sourced from Oregon's Momtazi vineyard's biodynamic grapes

Greg Graziano from Mendocino has Eddie Graziano's organic Zin (but it's almost all gone)

And the always impressive Grgich Hills (completely biodynamic)

Mila Handley from Handley Cellars - I saw some newbies here getting blown away (and rightly so) by their sparkling rose (I agree - it's soooo good)

Spencer (of Elizabeth Spencer) and I had a brief chat about how do you know something is organic if it's from Italy...to be continued

The always wonderful Mike Dashe and I realized we both worked together at Apple long, long ago (a previous lifetime, to be sure) - I am a  huge fan of the wines he makes from McFadden's grapes

Corley of Monticello has some in transition wines

I ran into the wonderful former wine director of Fish Ehoud Amos, and his wife - they wanted to make sure I got a chance to try the wines from Stone Edge - definitely going to visit them soon (Sonoma/Mount Veeder) - that's Dorothy Moller-Racke, Stone Edge Farms' marketing director, on the right.

Stone Edge's Surround is a blend of four nearby vineyards (all certified organic)

Stone Edge's Cab

Jim Milone from Terra Savia pouring  - almost all of his wines are in my forthcoming app. Look for tasting videos to follow in later posts.

John Fetzer and Patty Rock from Saracina - their new Chardonnay is AWESOME and especially for $16

Saracina's inaugural articles was on display (2004)

Definitely the best dressed award goes to Jason Haas from Tablas Creek, who was doing a fabulous  job showing off their newest vintages (one of which made the Chronicle today) - he was kind enough to do some spur of the moment videos, too - of which later

In the Department of "What's Old is New Again"

This is one of the coolest art and wine projects ever.

If you've been to Saracina winery in Hopland, you may have heard about their new fermentation vessels - terracotta - which is how it was done back in the day. As in like ancient times. But it's the new hip thing.

John Fetzer and friends hit upon the idea of getting clay vessels made that would echo the forms of modern stainless steel tanks. And so they ordered custom clay pipes - the kind used in heavy construction projects - for wine fermentation, customized a bit.

With the help of a California College of Art student, they went a step further, commissioning ancient style figurines to sit atop the buried fermentation tanks (that take advantage of cool underground temps). 

These are photos from the delivery in December 2010. 

Read the whole, fascinating story here.

And enjoy the pics.

These sit on top of the buried fermentation tanks.

Mendo in a Day

Some people have fantasy football. Some people have fantasy tours - in the back of my mind, I am putting together trips to take in wine country that aren't just tasting room hops, but really tell a story. Here's my latest and greatest on what to see and do in the Hopland/Ukiah area if you have only one day.

This will be in my new iPhone app as well so you can actually get the directions, etc. and all the details as well.

OLD ITALY
1. Testa
See what an old Italian family vineyard and winery is like - it's all still there. The house, the barn, the dry farmed, head pruned vines. And wine! You can enjoy the Black, which just took a gold medal at the Mendocino Wine Competition.

JUG WINE HISTORY MEETS MODERN SUSTAINABILITY
2. Parducci
Italians ramped up to industrial strength production - the Gallos of their day - and after Prohibition, this place really took off. Its redwood tanks are a reminder of a bygone era. Today the newly reinvented brand is an early green leader in its price category (under $10) though its wines are not organic. The wetlands tour impresses.

A GREEN WINE LEADER
3. Paul Dolan
Partners in the Parducci facility, and located in the same tasting room, Paul Dolan wines are 100% organic and some are biodynamic. Dolan was involved in starting the Bonterra and Fetzer brands.

SANEL VALLEY SOPHISTICATE, WITH CAVES
4. Saracina
John Fetzer has one of Napa's top winemakers David Ramey onboard as consulting winemaker. The results are impressive - sophisticated wines that are served at no less than Gary Danko and French Laundry. The caves, newly built, are fun to tour and there's art in the mix, too. Sheep, olive trees, pomegranates - all those plus the caves and high quality wines make a stop here a must.