Napa's Ne Plus Ultra at Premiere Napa Valley: The Organic Among Them

Credit: Decanter

Premiere Napa Valley set new records this year selling $6 million worth of one of kind wines, up from $5.9 million in 2014.

While 2015 was not a repeat of the high drama of 2014, during which a buyer paid $260,000 for the Scarecrow lot, the average price of a bottle did not change much. The average bottle price in 2014 was $283; in 2015, it was $286.

This year's highest price lot sold for $115,000.

The wine auction benefits the Napa Valley Vintners, the trade association many (but not all) area wineries belong to, providing more than half of its annual revenue.

The wines presented are one of a kind wines, not available outside of the event, and are sought after by collectors and their wine merchants.

Because it's not a charity auction, it sends a signal to the marketplace about the value of Napa's fine wine prices.

Last year I attended the auction and, as luck would have it, sat next to Sasha Vaynerchuk of Wine Library (in NJ), father of the YouTube and social media expert Gary Vaynerchuk. That year Wine Library won only two of his bids. "Prices were too high," Sasha told me. This year Sasha came with Gary, whose picture was plastered over every available social media channel, and Wine Library came home with four (well publicized) lots from Premiere.

To learn more about the event, and to hear from Phillipe Melka (pictured below), one of Napa's top tier winemaking consultants (and one who prefers to use organic grapes in his own as well as his clients' wines), enjoy the Napa Valley Vintners' video below.

Below is a list of the organically grown wines from Premiere Napa Valley 2015, with prices listed for some wineries. (More prices may be added later). Lots that sold for $20,000 or more are in bold type.

Personally, I've become fascinated by the buyers at this event - of that, more later (tomorrow's post).




CHARDONNAY

Grgich Hills Estate, 10 cases, $22,000
AVA: Carneros

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Chappellet, 5 cases, $26,000
(Pritchard Hill)

Ehler's Estate, 5 cases, $16,000
AVA: St. Helena

Hall, 5 cases, $26,000
AVA: St. Helena

Inglenook, 5 cases
AVA: Rutherford

Long Meadow Ranch Winery, $12,000
AVA: Rutherford

Rocca Family Vineyards, 5 cases, $20,000
Colinetta
AVA: Coombsville

Spottswoode, 5 cases, $48,000
AVA: St. Helena

Volker Eisele Family Estate, 5 cases, $12,000
AVA: Chiles Valley District

DOLCETTO

Madonna Estate, 5 cases, $8,000
AVA: Carneros

MERLOT

Lateral, 5 cases
AVA: Carneros

Russian River Documentary - Local Premieres in St. Helena (March 4) and San Rafael (March 12)

The drought in California has brought to the surface tensions that have been brewing for some time over water use and wine. As northern Chilean vineyards shut down due to lack of water there, all over California, drought ranks as one of the top concerns on the minds of farmers, grape growers and everyone who lives here.

The Russian River runs through wine country in Mendocino and Sonoma counties and is the main source of water (along with groundwater) for growers and vintners. There are more than 60,000 acres in vine in Sonoma and 16,000 in Mendocino. Very little is dry farmed and almost all growers use water for frost protection.

Though the river plays a starring role in the vitality of the region, it has never been the subject of a feature length documentary before. Now its turn in the spotlight has come, as local Sonoma folks have put together what looks like a very fine film, judging from the trailer.

Here's a taste of what's to come at local premiere events in Napa and Marin counties.



It's playing March 4 in St. Helena at the Cameo Cinema in an event sponsored by the local Sierra Club.

Details here.

It will also play March 12 at the Rafael Theater in San Rafael at a special screening with the filmmakers in attendance.

Details here.

It IS a Beautiful World

What a lovely world it is when you can have lunch with Jancis Robinson and discuss organic and Biodynamic wines.

Premiere Napa Valley Event: The Melka Tasting at Meadowood

Premiere Napa Valley, an auction of epic proportions, featuring exclusive, very expensive, one of a kind lots from Napa vintners, kicked off Friday afternoon with various group or appellation tastings around the valley. The pre-event tastings are designed to whet collectors' appetites for what lies ahead - the biggest, spendiest gathering of top collectors, elite wine merchants and self-organized wine buying clubs or syndicates.

(The Premiere Napa Valley auction is not to be confused with the Auction Napa Valley, a charity event hosted in May; Premiere Napa Valley's auction benefits the Napa Valley Vintners, the region's powerful marketing organization - a vital part of the local economy and the engine that keeps Napa's wines in the global spotlight).

French born and Bordeaux trained, Philippe Melka, one of Napa's most elite consultants, sits at the epicenter of this whirlwind. Melka is, in the words of Robert Parker, "one of the most powerful people in wine today," and a consulting winemaker at 10 very select Napa wineries. He also makes wine under his own brand - Melka Wines, and, in addition to this Napa clients, also has one client in Sonoma.

Both Melka and Michel Rolland, the other French born major wine consultant in Napa, prefer that clients use organic methods in the vineyards, so I made it a point to taste my way through the four wineries with certified vineyards at the Melka tasting who are all featured below. 

Wine expert Karen MacNeil (author of the ever popular Wine Bible) and
Kort van Bronkorst, both of whom I connected with at the
Wine Writers Symposium, popped in to taste the selections

Joe Filippin from Entre Nous, with the 2012 Cab;
Entre Nous is Melka's only Oakville Cab

Cherie Melka of Melka Wines, holding the
2012 Bordeaux Blend Jumping Goat
(grown in St. Helena)

Stephen Adams of Howell Mountain's Adamvs
holding a magnum of Adamvs, the all estate Cab;
Adamvs' vineyards are organic and Biodynamic

Melka's sole Sonoma client is Skipstone
located in Alexander Valley; Amy Schaefers displays
the latest vintage of Skipstone's Olivier's Blend

If you want to know more...All the wines from these ultra premium Napa wineries (and many more) are featured in the apps Organically Napa: Wine Finder and Organically Napa: A Tasting and Touring Guide ($9.99 each/available on the Apple App Store or on Google Play.) 

Winemakers Announced for SHED Healdsburg Biodynamic Wine GRANGE EVENT

It's not a real grange, but the proprietors of SHED think of their store-restaurant-charcuterie-cheese-shop-and-wine-shop as a modern grange. On March 1, in their modern grange series, four local winemakers with Biodynamic vineyards and estate wines will talk about Biodynamics in the final installment of a six part series on Biodynamic agriculture and farming practices.

This event focuses on wine from Biodynamic vineyards. Forget any wild eyed tales you've read about fairies in the fields when it comes to Biodynamics. This is a certification program, based on a process approach to certification, that reads more like an agro-ecology textbook citing historically tried and true methods (used for centuries) and incorporates all of the federally required materials standards for organic certification.

Biodynamic standards include a grape growing standard that makes biodiversity a requirement and winemaking standards that allow producers to choose to make and market wines without additives in a category called "Biodynamic Wine." (Limited amounts of sulfites are permitted, but nothing more). This is the only no-additives standard in the wine world. (Organically grown wines may include organic additives).

Making wines certified "Biodynamic® Wine" is a high wire act, performed by only a few (but mostly the best) wineries, and relies on the absolutely right soils and farming to let the essence of the grapes and the site come through.

A second standard, "Made with Biodynamic® Grapes" also exists for winemakers who need more flexibility in the cellar. Both may be labeled with the Demeter logo.

(Other vintners make wines solely from Biodynamic estate vines or purchase fruit from Biodynamic growers, conforming to general USDA winemaking standards.)

But whatever the standard is, Biodynamic farming deserves your attention, striving to bring into balance both agriculture and the natural world in a holistic approach that isn't just sustainababble hooey.

I'll be moderating this panel which features folks who are rarely seen at public wine events, so I am hoping you will make it a point to come and see them. They're a fascinating bunch. And there will be plenty of time for Q and A.

Alex Davis
Winemaker and Proprietor, Porter Creek Vineyards

Known For: quietly making acclaimed Pinot Noir in his family's Russian River Valley vineyards on Westside Road in Healdsburg
Wines: 4+ wines ($36-72, 91-93 pts.)
Varietals: Chardonnay, 3-4 estate Pinot Noirs

Biodynamic: since 2003
Biodynamic Vineyards: 20 acres
Certifications: Vineyard, Winery; makes "Biodynamic Wine" (that means up to 100 ppm of sulfites; other than that, no additives)
Biodynamic Case Production: 1,500

Tasting Room: Westside Road, Healdsburg

Ridgely Evers
Proprietor, DaVero

Known for: making Italian varietals, including the rarely grown Sagrantino, and olive oil on a Dry Creek Valley farm

Wines: Malvasia Bianco, Moscato, Pinot Nero, Sangiovese, and an expensive and unobtainable Sagrantino

Biodynamic: since 2011
Certifications: Vineyard
Biodynamic Vineyards: 12 acres
Biodynamic Vineyard Case Production: 1,400

Tasting Room: Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg

Hugh Chappelle
Winemaker, Quivira Vineyards

Known for: making Rhone wines and Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley

Wines: 10+ wines ($22-38; 90-91 pts.)
Varietals: Grenache, Mourvedre Petite Sirah, Syrah, Rhone Blends (red and white), Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel

Biodynamic: since 2004
Certifications: Vineyard, Winery; makes "Made with Biodynamic Grapes" wine
Biodynamic Vineyards: 88 acres
Biodynamic Case Production: 6,500

Tasting Room: Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg

Philippe Corderey
Biodynamic Consultant 

Known for: Vigneron from Provence who works with top vineyards in the U.S.

About: raised in a family of French vignerons, he left the family land to become a pesticide salesman.

After a life threatening bout with diseases (from carrying sacks of vineyard chemicals), he healed himself with a strict detox diet, discovered Biodynamics and enrolled in a Biodynamic education program in Pennsylvania. He later worked as a vineyard manager and winemaker at Chapoutier vineyards in the Languedoc and in the Tain L'Hermitage, St. Joseph, Cornas and Chateauneuf de Pape appellations.

Randall Grahm recruited him to come to California to establish Bonny Doon Vineyard's first Biodynamic vineyards in Monterey County, the earliest in Central California to be Demeter certified. He's now based in Sebastopol but works for vineyards throughout California.

Certified Biodynamic Clients: Grgich Hills Estate in Napa, Qupé's Sawyer Lindquist estate in Edna Valley (also known as Slide Hills Vineyard) in the Central Coast region, and Preston Farm & Winery in Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley.

DETAILS

The event takes place Sunday at SHED from 5 to 7 pm and there is a $20 admission fee for the panel and tasting.  For more, see the SHED web site here.

Another Reason Why Organically Grown Wine Matters: Groundwater Contamination from Pesticides

Many of the organic or Biodynamic vineyardists that I talk to talk about the pride they feel in knowing that the water running through the vines they work on is clean when it leaves the property.

Therefore you'd be forgiven for not knowing what the other guys out there are doing. Because they don't say what the water is like when it leaves their vineyard.

When you buy that cheap supermarket bottle in the grocery (not organic) or even an expensive one from a high end winery, you may be supporting the kind of pesticide use that leads to groundwater contamination.

We are fortunate here in California to live in a state that requires pesticide use reporting. That way state authorities can postulate where the pesticide is coming from when state authorities are monitoring groundwater contamination from pesticides.

This video from the state DPR may make you wonder - well, what agricultural pesticides are they finding in that groundwater? And that might be a good question to ask. Because when it comes to the 90 percent of wine that is grown industrially over the state, as well as those "artisanal" growers, there are indeed neurotoxins, developmental toxins, carcinogens and more that are applied to the vines. It's not a message you're going to hear from the Wine Institute.

This video is in English, with Spanish subtitles.

  

The state's DPR has just published an update to its ongoing progress report. You can read it here. Chlorpyrifos is one of the wine grape pesticides mentioned in the report. It's in Lorsban and Dursban and other brands.

It's an old school organophosphate that's been linked to autoimmune disorders and more. It's become widespread in some of the agricultural areas of California. This comes from the Wikipedia article about chlorpyrifos:

"In samples collected between 2007 and 2009 from families living in Northern California, TCPy was found in 98.7% of floor wipes tested and in 65% of urine samples tested. For both children and adults, the average concentrations of TCPy in urine were lower in the later study.[48] A 2008 study found dramatic drops in the urinary levels of chlorpyrifos metabolites when children in the general population switched from conventional to organic diets.[49]^"

Of course, the best thing you can do to prevent pesticide use is to support organic farmers and organic grape growers and the vintners who grow or buy these grapes.

PESTICIDES IN CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS

Here is what the other guys are using (data from the California Dept. of Pesticide Regulation). These are the same statistics I trot out about once or twice a year on this blog, but they bear repeating. There are 52,000 pounds - yes POUNDS - of chlorpyrifos used on wine grapes alone on 25,000+ acres.

Bird and Bee Toxins

• Boscalid: bee hazard, possible carcinogen

53,340 pounds a year on 239,940 acres

• Chlorantraniliprole: bee hazard

3,877 pounds on 52,626 acres

• Imidacloprid: kills bees and birds

44,040+ pounds spread on 189,885 acres

• Methoxyfenozide: kills bees and birds

28,711 pounds spread on 139,978 acres

Carcinogens - Probable and Possible

• 1, 3 Dichloropropene: probable carcinogen

666,004 pounds on 2,648 acres

• Mancozeb: developmental toxin and probable carcinogen

9,482 pounds over 6,465 acres

• Oxyfluorfen: possible carcinogen

71,267 pounds on 209,122 acres

• Pendimethalin: possible carcinogen

142,253 pounds on 68,146 acres

Neurotoxins

• Chlorpyrifos: neurotoxin

52,341 pounds on 28,359 acres

• Glufosinate ammonium: neurotoxin 

70,701 pounds on 114,843+ acres

MAP: CHLORPYRIFOS APPLIED TO WINE GRAPES (California Dept. of Public Health map/data from 2010, the latest year for which mapping data exists):

Here's where the chlorpyrifos is. I should clarify that this data is not showing groundwater contamination. This data is showing the application of chlorpyrifos to vineyards. From vineyards, it can reach wells.

Chlorprifos found in well water is heavily linked to a hugely increased risk for Parkinson's disease, Alzheimer's and other pretty dire autoimmune conditions. (Read on for specific citations).

Notice the applications are not just the Central Valley. There are more than a few Lorsban users in Sonoma and Napa counties as well as in Monterey all along Highway 101. Remember this is just showing the chlorpyrifos applied to wine grapes alone. (It's also applied to many other crops.)

Of course, this is one of the leading "bad old pesticides," nothing like the newer ones - like imidacloprid, for instance. Just kidding. (Imidacloprid, heralded as the latest in the long list of "wonder" chemicals, is now on the state's list of agricultural chemicals tested for in groundwater.)

Here are the maps for Napa and Sonoma counties showing where chlorpyrifos is being used on wine grapes. In Napa there is only one company that uses it, but they are the biggest single landowner and grower in the county. In Sonoma, some of the Lorsban users are prominent vintners.

The map shows 2010 data from the California Dept. of Pesticide
Regulation PUR that has been mapped by the California Dept. of
Public Health. The latest available PUR data (2012) has not been mapped
but shows 272 pounds of chlorpyrifos used on 162 acres in Napa in 2012.

 This map shows 2010 data from the California Dept. of Pesticide 
Regulation PUR that has been mapped by the California Dept. of 
Public Health. The latest available PUR data (2012) has not been mapped 
but shows 123 pounds of chlorpyrifos used on 65 acres in Sonoma in 2012.

You can explore the maps and data on California's wine grape pesticides at the California Dept. of Public Health here.

Currently the DPR is deciding whether to restrict chlorpyrifos sales solely to registered pest control advisors. 

Its press release on this matter states, "Since 2004, 1-2 million pounds of chlorpyrifos has been applied each year to agricultural lands in California." At the national level, the EPA estimates that 10 million pounds are used on agricultural lands in the U.S.

All this comes in the wake of epidemiological studies released in 2009 showing rural Californians drinking private well water in Tulare, Fresno and Kern counties had an 82% increased chance of getting Parkinson's due to chlorpyrifos being used in their areas.

(Unfortunately the state of California does not test groundwater for chlorpyrifos, having, for some reason, decided that it is not an imminent threat, but the UCLA researchers did test for, basing their assessment on known health risks and the assessment of other states).

You can contact your local ag commissioner to obtain a list of the sites and applications of chlorpyrifos in your county. Just ask for the latest Pesticide Use Report from the county. It is public information. Some counties (Napa, Sonoma) require sending in a form (which they will email to you) to obtain the data. Others (Santa Barbara County, for instance) just post a link to it online. It makes for interesting reading.

The state's Pesticide Use Reports are available online here. These, too, are broken out by crop type or chemical and location. Readers can read the reports for each county in California as well.

UPDATE: Feb. 22, 2015: I just found out that the EPA has issued a press release expressing its concerns over chlorpyrifos and worker safety. Its latest report states, "We are concerned about some workers who mix, load and apply chlorpyrifos to agricultural and other non-residential sites...We are also concerned about workers who work around areas that are treated with chlorpyrifos as part of their jobs." 

More information is also available from Environmental Health News which posted a story about the topic here.

Biodynamic Wine - All You Ever Wanted To Know - Direct from the Horse's Mouth

Demeter USA will be offering a Short Course on Biodynamic grape growing and winemaking Monday, March 23 at Maysara winery in McMinnville, Oregon.

On the agenda...Moe Momtazi will present an opening keynote...Paul Dolan will give an overview of the Biodynamic farm.

A morning panel of presenters will cover Biodynamics in the vineyard. Featured are Glenn McGourty (U.C. Farm Advisor), Nadine Lew (currently with Soter Vineyards; previously at Bonny Doon and Robert Sinskey); Rudy Marchesi of Montinore Estate and other experts.

The afternoon panel will cover making Demeter certified wines. Panelists include Tahmiene Momtazi of Maysara, Gilles de Domingo from Cooper Mountain, Ben Thomas of Montinore and Dan Rinke of Johan Vineyards.

And I will be moderating.

Should be an amazing day with this list of experts!

Save the date - or register now.
http://demeter-usa.org/shortcourse

And, if you can't make it, email me your question for a speaker and I will try to get it answered!

Over the Top and Under the Radar - Cassata Vineyards in Sonoma Valley Gets Amazing Scores

I am updating the Biodynamic wine apps and  just noticed - and want to acknowledge with a quick shoutout - the folks at Cassata Vineyards must be doing something amazing.

This 23 acre Biodynamic vineyard in Sonoma Valley has racked up two impressive achievements:

• A 2014 Sonoma Harvest Fair win for Muscardini Cellars' 2012 Cabernet from Cassata vines

• A 95 Point score from Robert Parker, Jr. for the Jeff Cohn Cellars Zinfandel from Cassata vines, saying the Zin was "as good as this varietal can be."

A random search on YouTube brought up this video review from Wine Weirdos...who comment on the freshness of the fruit.

I am planning a visit to see the vineyards and meet the Cassata family (who are starting to release their own wines under their Utopium label).

Partly one has to wonder what Biodynamic farming does for wine. I have been preparing for the upcoming Demeter Short Course on Biodynamics, which will be held March 23 at Maysara Winery in McMinnville, Oregon and where I will be moderating two panels (one with growers and one with winemakers) during the day long event. In doing some research about Pinot Noirs, I found that 82% of the 60 Pinots made from Biodynamic vines in the U.S. were rated 90+ pts. 

(And I'm not even counting Wine Enthusiast scores - just Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine, Parker, Vinous, Bonné, Asimov and a few others). 82%.

Wine Lovers, Please Come: March 1 - SHED's Grange Event Series to Feature Panel and Wine Tasting on Biodynamics and Wine

Demeter USA has very graciously invited me to moderate an event featuring a panel of Biodynamic winemakers at SHED in SHED's Grange Events series on local farming and agriculture.

The tasting and talk takes place Sunday, March 1 from 5-7. Admission is $20 and includes wine tasting of locally grown wines from Biodynamic vines along with the program which will feature Q and A with Sonoma winemakers who make Demeter certified Biodynamic wines or have certified vineyards.

This is a rare public event showcasing this much misunderstood topic - which is actually the kind of wine grape growing, wine making and wine connoisseurship that the 21st century needs more of. Come out and enjoy yourselves!

You'll learn things - like how the certification "Biodynamic Wine" is the only additive free wine standard, something a lot of people will want to seek out - and enjoy some lovely wines (Pinots, Rhones, and more). For you people who like wine scores, most of these wines are in the 90+ pt. spectrum and some are on great restaurant wine lists as well.

Details here:
http://healdsburgshed.com/events/biodynamic-workshop-6/

I know you will learn something new - and taste some delicious wines that may have escaped your notice.

And you'll get to see SHED, which won the 2014 James Beard Foundation for restaurant design. Learn more about SHED here.

It's ZZZZZZinfandel Zeason: ZAP Comes to the Bay Area

ZAP madness has begun. The Zinfandel Advocates & Producers' passion for Zin annually celebrates all things Zinfandel each winter in the Bay Area, kicking off its 5 days of events with a trade and media tasting Wednesday in Alameda, headlined by a panel of Zin experts.

Upcoming events include:
• a night of food and wine pairing (tonight, $135) with dozens of restaurants preparing bites paired with wineries' selections
• a Friday night (sold out) dinner at the Four Seasons, focused on regional variations in Zin (featuring Amador, Contra Costa and Dry Creek wines)
• a grand tasting Saturday from 11-5 ($170 for public)
• a Sat. night dinner event

Yesterday's panel took attendees through eight wines, showing the range of Zin's expressions in the hands of different vintners and different vines.

Enjoy these photos from the panel's presentation.

Wineries with organically grown wines at the event include:

• Carol Shelton's Monga Zin from the historic Cucamonga vineyard in southern California
• Milliaire's Clockspring Zinfandel from Amador vines
• Ridge Vineyards' East Bench and Geyserville Zins from Sonoma County
• Turley's Estate Zinfandel from St. Helena in Napa
• Tres Sabores Zinfandel, an old vine Zin from Rutherford in Napa County

The panel was held at the Rock Wall winery in Alameda, which
has stunning views of the SF Bay - and plenty of free parking (it's on
the former Navy base) 

The panel of three experts, moderated by Randy Caporoso (from Lodi)
included from left to right, Tim Fish from the Wine Spectator, sommelier
Lulu McAllister, wine director of NOPA restaurant, and Wilfred Wong
of online retailer Wine.com.

Lulu McAllister said Zin's food friendliness was often overlooked
on wine lists. 

Joel Petersen, of Ravenswood, with his son Morgan
Twain-Petersen, of Bedrock, commented on the regional
variation of Zin's expressions 

During the tasting, I sampled the Clockspring
Milliaire Zin, the only organic
vineyard in Amador County for decades
(it was recently sold and will no longer be organic)

Joel Ravenswood was pouring a 1994 Zin from
the historic Old Hill (Bucklin) vineyard - one
of the oldest in the state, planted in 1852.

The Old Hill is a classic field blend - with more than 14
varieties in the vineyard.

Why Organic Matters

Organic Winners from the 2015 SF Chronicle Wine Competition

The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition is the country's largest wine competition, with a record number of wines entered in 2015. But it's also one of the most uneven competitions, as few of the state's finest wineries (there are some exceptions) participate, making it not the definitive benchmark for fine wines. However, it's still a worthy competition, unearthing a great variety of wines and putting them side by side in juxtapositions that no wine magazine is likely to compare in the same breath.

So it's interesting to see how things rank.

This year some wineries really came up in the judging - among them was Medlock Ames for its top of the line Cabernet (Kate's and B's which enough judges liked to give it best of class in a very competitive category) against Napa stalwarts Grgich Hills and Rocca.

Tiny McFadden, with its new Brut Rosé, again scored a Double Gold, the same score as Domaine Carneros' top of the line sparkling wine. It's hard to understand how Korbel's Organic Brut got a gold; it doesn't use the traditional Champagne varieties of Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, substituting Colombard and Sangiovese instead.

Campovida scored well for some of its fine wines, as did Sonoma's lesser known Martorana Vineyards in Dry Creek and Petroni Vineyards on Moon Mountain.

Madonna Estate in Napa, run by an old Italian family, won a Double Gold for its Dolcetto ($35) and Lodi star Bokisch Vineyards (with Spanish roots) won a Double Gold for its Grenache ($20).

Lake County's Chacewater, which also sources grapes from its Sierra Foothills vines, did very well, too, winning a Best of Class for its Merlot along with two gold medals for two of its other wines. It's especially noteworthy as most of the wines are in the more affordable, $20ish categories. This young winery won Winery of the Year at the California State Fair in 2012. In addition to traditional marketing, I like that the fact that it sells its wine at the farmers market in Auburn (near some of its vineyards in the Sierra Foothills), a trend I hope will grow among more of the organic producers who can start to educate farmers market buyers about why organic vineyards matter.

One of my favorite, quietly wonderful Napa wineries, Oakville Ranch, won a Double Gold for its Field Blend, a Double Gold for its limited production Chardonnay and a Double Gold for its Cabernet Franc.

Overall, the results should help you to pinpoint some wines you'd like to try. There's lots to choose from.

(All of the Napa and Sonoma wines as well as the wines from Biodynamic vines are all featured in my apps. The app listings include winery descriptions, critics ratings, and information about each wine's certifications, vineyard location, and bottle labeling).

Note: The wines are judged according to varietals and price ranges. I've grouped them all simply by varietal to make it easier to scan them all. If you want to see the price ranges, as well as the vintage information, go to the competition web site for detailed results.

SPARKLING WINES

Double Gold

• Domaine Carneros - Le Reve ($99)
• McFadden Vineyard - Cuvée Rosé ($32)

Gold

• Korbel - Organic ($12.99)

Silver

• McFadden Vineyard - Cuvée Brut ($40)
• Yorkville Cellars - Sparkling Malbec Brut Rosé ($36)

WHITE WINES

Albarino

Silver

• Bokisch Vineyards - Terra Alta ($18)

Bordeaux Blends (White)

Silver

• Campovida - Campo di Stelle ($36)
• Yorkville Cellars - Eleanor of Acquitaine ($28)

Chardonnay

Double Gold

• Oakville Ranch ($50)

Gold

• Petroni Vineyards ($30)

Silver

• Canihan Family Winery ($35)
• Chacewater - Lake County ($33)
• Girasole ($13)
• Handley Cellars - Estate ($25)
• Madonna Estate ($28)
• Medlock Ames - Russian River Valley ($27)
• ZD Wines - Carneros Reserve ($65)

Bronze

• Alma Rosa - El Jabali ($28)
• Bonterra ($13)
• Bonterra - Blue Heron ($50)
• Retzlaff ($22)

Gewürztraminer

Bronze

• Handley ($20)
• McFadden Vineyard ($16)

Pinot Blanc

Silver

• Alma Rosa - La Encantada ($28)

Pinot Gris

Gold

• King Estate - Domaine ($27)

Silver

• Alma Rosa - La Encantada ($19)
• McFadden Vineyard ($16)

Riesling

Bronze

• McFadden Vineyard ($18)

Sauvignon Blanc

Gold

• Bink - Randle Hill ($22)
• Petroni ($24)
• Retzlaff ($24)
• Viluko Vineyards

Silver

• McFadden Vineyard ($16)
• Paul Dolan Vineyards ($18)
• Quivira - Fig Tree (($20)
• Viluko Vineyards ($24)

Bronze

• Bonterra ($12.99)

Viognier

Gold

• Cooper-Garrod ($29)

Silver

• Campovida ($34)
• Bonterra ($13)

RED WINES

Bordeaux Blends (Red)

Silver

• Hawk and Horse - Block Three ($35)
• Imagery - Estate ($65)
• Medlock Ames - Snakepit ($60)
• Terra Savia - Meritage ($22)

Cabernet Franc

Double Gold

• Cooper-Garrod ($33)
• Oakville Ranch ($110)

Cabernet Sauvignon

Best of Class

• Medlock Ames Kate's and B's ($75)

Gold

• Imagery - Estate ($65)
• Lucinda & Millie ($15)

Silver

• Hawley ($43)
• Martorana ($45)
• Medlock Ames ($42)
• Muscardini - Cassata ($48)
• Oakville Ranch ($80)
• Retzlaff ($39)

Bronze

• Bonterra ($14)
• Grgich Hills ($60)
• Hawk and Horse ($65)
• Paul Dolan Vineyards ($25)
• Petroni Vineyards ($70)
• Rocca Family Vineyards - Collinetta ($95)
• Rocca Family Vineyards - Grigsby ($85)

Dolcetto

Double Gold

• Madonna Estate ($35)

Grenache

Double Gold

• Bokisch Vineyards - Terra Alta ($20)

Silver

• Quivira - Wine Creek Ranch ($32)

Merlot

Best of Class

• Chacewater - Sierra Foothills ($21)
• Rocca Family ($60)

Gold

• Grgich Hills Estate ($44)

Silver

• Imagery - Estate ($65)
• Martorana ($33)
• Retzlaff ($30)

Bronze

• Hawley ($29)

Petite Sirah

Silver

• Barra of Mendocino ($22)
• Hawk and Horse Vineyards ($48)

Bronze

• Martorana ($42)

Pinot Noir

Double Gold

• Domaine Carneros - The Famous Gate ($75)
• ZD Wines - Founder's Reserve ($75)

Gold

• Sokol Blosser - Dundee Hills ($45)

Silver

• Alma Rosa - La Encantada Mt. Eden Clone ($45)
• Alma Rosa - La Encantada - Clone 115 ($45)
• Benziger Family Winery - Arbore Sacra ($75)
• Castoro Cellars - Whale Rock ($30)
• Domaine Carneros - Estate ($36)
• King Estate - Domaine ($70)
• Madonna Estate ($32)
• Merriam Vineyards - Three Sons ($75)
• ZD Wines - Carneros ($50)

Bronze

• Bonterra ($14)
• Canihan Family Winery - Exuberance ($70)
• Naughty Boy Vineyards ($23)

Primitivo

Silver

• Campovida - Dark Horse Vineyard ($36)

Red Blends

Silver

• Bonterra - McNab ($50)
• Chacewater - Sierra Foothills ($24)
• McFadden Vineyards - Coro Mendocino ($37)
• Petroni Vineyards - Rosso di Sonoma ($25)
• Rocca Family Vineyards - Vespera ($55)

Bronze

• McEvoy - Red Piano ($35)
• Yorkville Cellars - Hi Roller Red ($19)

Rhone Blends

Silver

• Quivira - Elusive ($34)

Sangiovese

Silver

• Barra Vineyards ($18)

Syrah

Gold

• Chacewater - Sierra Foothills ($21)
• Petroni ($40)

Silver

• Canihan Family Winery ($49)
• Rocca Family ($50)

Zinfandel

Double Gold

• Oakville Ranch - Field Blend ($55)

Gold

• Chacewater - Sierra Foothills ($21)

Silver

• Carol Shelton - Lopez Vineyard/Cucamonga ($21)
• Cesar Toxqui Cellars - Split Rock ($30)
• Grgich Hills Estate ($35)
• Martorana Vineyards ($35)
• Milliaire Winery - Clockspring ($26)
• Paul Dolan Vineyards ($25)
• Quivira - Quest ($38)

Bronze

Bonterra ($14)

DESSERT WINES & PORT

Port

Silver

• Hawk and Horse Vineyards - Latigo ($85)
• Heitz Wine Cellars - Ink Grade Port ($35)

White Dessert

Gold

• Pacific Rim - Vin de Glaciere ($14)

Bronze

• McFadden Vineyards - Late Harvest Riesling ($18)

A Few Words From Volker Eisele on Organic Farming, Land, and "Green" Marketing

Hundreds of people attended Volker Eisele's memorial
service at the St. Helena Catholic Church Tuesday.

Volker Eisele's legacy as the lion of agricultural land preservation in Napa will not be forgotten. But his contributions on the subject of organic farming, a less explored topic in his legacy, are just as important.

This week I've been rereading an interview I did with him in the summer of 2013 and have decided to share some of the nuggets here to honor more of his legacy. All quotes are Volker's:

On development

"I've been here long enough in Napa Valley to know how much natural habitat there was - 20, 30, 40 years ago - that has been destroyed to gain a few acres of vineyards. It's a misunderstanding…It isn't that people are evil or anything. It's ignorance and a lack of education that leads to those kinds of things."

On organic farming

"I started farming organically here in 1974, when we settled here. I must say I am not an expert on chemicals. All I know is "no poison on our land." [USDA officials in that era advised him against farming organically and told him he would not get a crop.]

"I was trained in critical thinking and nobody had explained to me - or could explain to me - why it would be useful to put poison at one end of my ranch, and then it would end up in the well, which we use for our house and which we would feed to our little children. That connection nobody could make for me. And still hasn't."

"Mind you, it isn't very long ago that people farmed without poison. It's relatively new that we farm with poison in the world…Is that good? I mean, seriously?"

"The poison issue is the critical issue because the sustainability of our environment and ultimately of the planet depends on how we treat the planet. And with poisons, we're not treating it very well."

On Roundup

"To pretend that things such as Roundup truly disappear in the ground and dissolve is, of course, total nonsense. And there is more and more research coming out about Roundup. We know if you use chemicals, there are things that are leftover - that are harmful. And that is why I'm not using chemicals. Period. No insecticides, no herbicides, no chemical fertilizer - no nothing."

On chemical fertilizers

"When you look, when you follow the New York Times daily, eventually you find a scandal here and there about groundwater contamination and it's very often from chemical fertilizer, from nitrates. Look at the nitrate issue as it is right now developing in the Central Valley community. It is all nitrate from agriculture, from over fertilization. I mean, you don't have to be Einstein to figure out these things."

On the wine industry's sustainability programs

"We have now attempts to be what I call "almost organic." Sort of second best. They call it sustainable farming practices. Now we are doing Napa Green [he was the president of Napa Green when I met him] here and things of that nature. And none of these things has a real good standard. The only good standard is organic farming."

On "green marketing"

"The wine industry is focused on "sustainability" - and not pesticide reduction - because the wine industry is the most adept at marketing and they know the market. The market wants something green. And so this is why you have all these euphemisms. You call it "sustainable" farming practice. You do all these things.

"I say, "sustainable" farming practices is counting the bugs before you spray them. It is undefined. Nobody knows what sustainable practices are because the obvious thing would be that ultimately if you are sustainable, you get rid of poison. And you would have to have other standards - erosion prevention, and habitat restoration, and all of those things - they should come automatically. But it's all very nebulous."

On biodiversity

"Part of the problem is that people think they can just use organic substances and be good farmers. We need to educate people to re-establish more natural habitat. 

"We ourselves (Volker Eisele Family Estate) are in a very advantageous position in that we have a lot of forest land. We stopped the grazing on our rangeland, after we got here, and that helped the forest tremendously. We probably have the same bird population that the native Americans experienced on this land."

On winemakers and terroir

"To me one of the worst things in American wine culture is the concentration on the winemaker. When you talk about Chateau Latour (one of the grand crus of Bordeaux), which is the best red wine in the world, you don't need to know the winemaker. You need to know where the grapes are from. And you need to know that famous wines come from those 125 acres. Ninety five percent of what you have in the bottle is due to the grapes. And the land."

Napa Vintner and Environmental Leader Volker Eisele Dies: A Remembrance

It was a February day in 2011 when I headed up the twisty roads to Chiles Valley with a friend to visit Volker Eisele Family Estate, the winery founded by the German born Volker Eisele and run with his family.

I was in the process of learning more about organically grown wines at the high end of the market (having made my acquaintance with most of the Mendo folk), and had been to visit the Napa Valley Vintners where the marketing and communications person directed me to connect with Volker, who was then the head of Napa Green, the eco-arm of the valley's marketing programs. Refreshingly candid, he made fun of green marketing while also being a dyed in the wool environmentalist, land protector, and organic wine grape grower and producer for more than 40 years.

Volker spent an hour touring us around the vineyards, showing us the birds along his creek, the abundant wildlife and woods (only 60 acres of the 400 acre property are cultivated), how the elevation of Chiles Valley led to temperatures and climate that was closer to that of Bordeaux.

Volker's name was familiar to me from reading the book Napa by James Conaway. In it, Conaway describes the fight to save Napa Valley from development by creating the Agricultural Preserve in 1968. Jack Davies (of Schramsberg) is credited with playing a key role in developing the preserve and Volker with a major role in getting it passed through a political alliance with strange bedfellows (including Beckstoffer). They were both students of the formidable environmental land preserver/battler Dorothy Erskine, who started the Greenbelt Alliance, among many initiatives. (Sadly, her name is never mentioned in Napa Valley Vintners' accounts of Napa's Ag Preserve and Napa's green history.)

My father had been roommates with Jack Davies, when the two were at Harvard Business School. He brought me up to visit Jack once, when he was here on a business trip from the East Coast in 1985. (It was the only time the two men connected after graduate school.) When I later read Conaway's book, I was astounded that it centered on Jack Davies and it certainly made the story even more compelling.

In 2010, my parents died. Jack Davies had already died. Volker represented a symbolic link to my past and to my future, as I had by then decided to start writing about organically grown wines (starting this blog earlier) and diving into the Napa producers. He was the start of understanding organic wine grape growing in Napa, for me.

Eisele was beyond caring about what the industry thought of him, in most ways. Yes, his wines had gotten some very nice scores from Robert Parker - one of the few essentials for wine marketing in his generation. And yes, I liked the wines very much - very, very much. I still think they represent one of the great unsung wines of the region. (They outdid the Phelps' Insignia in a Wine & Spirits tasting later on, a fact which I noted in a blog post at the time).

He spoke words of truth, not truthiness like most vintners. He spent time, unhurried time, with my friend and me. He gave us his attention. He answered our questions. He visited with us. He didn't shower us with wine club offers and pushy marketing deals. He was the very opposite of this.

He could also be quite the curmudgeon, as I had later occasion to witness. His social skills swung both ways. He could be biting, ascorbic, insulting - even to his allies. He was to me. But he was also very generous and open. I did two interviews with him on the phone (recorded) in July-August 2013, before he was leaving on a trip to Germany where he attended a special new production of Wagner's opera The Ring at Bayreuth. He laid out the entire legislative history of Napa's land protection measures as well as his thoughts on winemaking (it's about the grapes and the land, not the winemaker), wine grape growing (easy in Napa), organic farming (important) and the industry's "green" marketing practices (organic wannabe's).

In the end, his contributions cannot be measured. He was, as the Press Democrat article says, a lion of land protection. He came from abroad. He knew what it meant once the land was gone. He saw the riches here. He protected them. He made great wine. I know many who will be toasting him. In my mind's eye, vintners should line Highway 29 and all the roads of Napa where vineyards exist, and hold a glass high to the guy who made it possible for them to be growing grapes instead of lawns, and trading in wine futures, instead of condo developments.

Just as the power of Wagner's heroes and heroines is rooted in the water and land, Eisele's was, too. In this way, his legacy will never be forgotten.

Favorite Bottles of the Year - 2014 - The Year That Was

Whatever we drink, each year is different from the last and our experiences of special bottles. These were my highlights of the year. (Since I'm not that much of a white wine drinker, it's focused on rosé, sparkling and red wines). All of the wines listed are 100% from organic or Biodynamic grapes.

ROSÉ

All through the spring and summer, here in our Mediterranean climate in California, rosé is a mainstay, so versatile in pairing, so refreshing to have just a glass. Here are my go-to house rosés:

Horse and Plow - Rosé
(Made with Organic Grapes, $20+)

Martian Ranch & Vineyard - Rosé
(Organic and Biodynamic Vineyard, $18)

Verdad - Rosé
(Biodynamic Wine, $14 at my local grocery - Farmer Joe's in Oakland)

REDS

Oakville Ranch - Cabernet Franc
(Organic vineyard, $110)

A top of the line Napa splurge wine, this is a sumptuous and beautiful wine.

Verdad - Tempranillo
(Made with Biodynamic Grapes, $30)

A gorgeous red (a Spanish varietal) that totally over delivers for the price.

Qupe/K&L Selection - Syrah
(Biodynamic Vineyard, $22)

One of the steals of the year…(as it was in 2013, too).

Preston Farm and Winery - Organic Syrah 
(Organic Wine, $36)

Only 100 cases made (and it may be sold out), a winery only wine…but try and find a bottle! This is the first year that Preston has made a no added sulfite Syrah, it was absolutely luminous. Winemaking at Preston is the result of using the practices of Mr. Steiner (otherwise known as Biodynamics), and making wine amid a vibrant farm full of biodiversity. There is definitely some magic in this bottle.

Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir - Life
(Biodynamic Wine, Organic Wine, $40)

Another no added sulfite wine, this vibrant Pinot Noir conveys something luminous as well. One can feel the vineyard singing in the bottle. The normally restrained Wine Advocate opined, "The alliance of brightness, energy and textural allure on display here simply has to be experienced!"

SPARKLING

McFadden Vineyards - Reserve Brut
(Made with Organic Grapes, $40; $24 during wine club sales)

This higher end Brut from McFadden is a winner. A delightful accompaniment to most meals.

SHERRY

Galleano - Rose of Peru Sherry
(Organic Vineyard, $35)

Galleano was the breakthrough discovery of my summer trip to LA, where I explored the great wine history of the region…and what a history it is. To my great surprise, some of it still lives on - and organically - in the form of Galleano, a winery that's defacto a living history museum. Once California was famous for its sweet wines. Galleano's sherries carry on that great tradition. They are made from 343 acres of certified organic Mission and Zinfandel vines close to 100 years old. Delish! A special treat and a great gift as well.

---

Here's to happy drinking and the enjoyment wine brings in the new year to come!

Podcast: Carol Grieve of Food Integrity Now Interviews Me About Organically and Biodynamically Grown Wines

Happy holidays!

Have you ever been curious about organic and Biodynamically grown wines?

Carol Grieve of Food Integrity Now recently interviewed me for her podcast.  Enjoy this 30 min. audio interview with me about organically and Biodynamically grown wines.

The first 12 minutes are available in the inline player here:



Enjoy the entire 32 min. interview online here:

http://content.blubrry.com/foodintegritynow/FIN-2014-11-27-E133.mp3

Or download or embed the interview with links here.

A handy chart to help you learn more about the various types of wines can be found in the Shades of Green article. Here's a thumbnail of the chart - that covers farming types. (Wine types is a separate subject).

There is one error in the chart above (which I have asked the publisher to remove): there is no bottle labeling for "Ingredients: Biodynamic Grapes."

I will also be publishing a new guide to all of the types of wine certifications in 2015.

Tip from Santa, Part 2: MapIsArt - Map Your Favorite Wine Country Locations

Tired of stupid gift suggestions for wine lovers? You can immortalize your favorite vineyard's terroir or the area you visited on a trip to wine country by mapping the location onto a serving tray, lampshade, coaster set, or marble clock.

Learn more at MapIsArt.com.

A Tip from Santa: Here's One of the Best Deals of the Year...

Straight from the KL email newsletter:

2011 Qupé "Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard - K&L Selection" Edna Valley Syrah($21.99)

Bryan Brick | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: December 02, 2014 Arguably the most popular of the co-branded wines with our staff last year was the 2010 version of this wine so it had a lot to live up to this year. The good news is the staff is every bit as excited about it this year and we hope that enthusiasm will rub off on you. Bob Lindquist was more than happy to work with us again this year and put together this 100% Syrah bottling from certified Demeter Bio-Dynamically grown vines in the cool Edna Valley Appellation. Unmistakably Syrah from the first sniff of the nose the bold cracked black pepper, fried bacon, fresh sage and licorice ropes. Already in a great spot to drink this lovely Syrah has plenty of power but no gruffness, sort of like a well manicured beard it’s burly but not necessarily a bad thing. Full of complex and intertwined flavors of beef blood, Asian plum, black currants and a load of smoky, savory goodness. Long and finishing with good energy and lift this is a Syrah that certainly stands out from the pack and over delivers on its price tag. Perfect for hearty winter braises and potluck get-togethers.

Free Streaming Through Dec. 12: Don't Miss the FIlm "Symphony of the Soil"

Ever wondered what terroir really means? If so, bone up on soil science, because that's a major component. My friends Deborah Koons Garcia, Vivian Hillgrove, Nancy Schiesari and others teamed up to make this landmark film which has received rave reviews in The New York Times and elsewhere and has screened around the globe. It makes soil understandable - and will make you sit up and take notice of the way we're currently treating soil, which is the resource we depend upon for food and shelter and life.

"Soil is... the largest pool of organic carbon, which is essential for mitigating and adapting to climate change. In an era of water scarcity, soils are fundamental for its appropriate storage and distribution."

This week, from Dec. 5-12, in honor of the United Nations' designation of 2015 as the International Year of Soils, Deborah has made the film available for anyone to see online for free. The only other way to see the film is to pay $25 for a DVD (which you should do - it makes a great holiday gift or school or library gift).

And be sure to check out the United Nations' site, too.

Here's the film in its entirety (only through Dec. 12):

San Francisco Chronicle's Top 100 Wines: 7% From Certified Organic Vines

San Francisco Chronicle's wine writer Jon Bonné's come out with his latest annual list of the Top 100 Wines. It's a list that could not be more opposite of the Wine Spectator's. Look at the Wine Spectator and you'll see the idiosyncratic approach of this powerful industry voice, highlighting mostly international brands and many corporate wineries. This year there was not a single, organically grown U.S. wine on the list.

By contrast, Bonné's list reflects the local, Slow Foods movement's orientation - emphasizing small lot wines from artisan wineries on the Left Coast.

This year's list omits many of the artisanal greats, but perhaps Bonné likes to mix it up, highlighting different producers each year.

While certified organic vines account for less than 3 percent of the wine grapes grown in California (where 90+ percent of U.S. wine comes from), they represent a disproportionately large percentage of the wines on this list (and many other top wine lists) with 7 out of 100 on the list.

However, don't expect to see the words "organic grapes" on the label. Most of these wines (with rare exceptions) are not bottle labeled. Many are featured in the apps I've written.

Enjoy these fine finds.

The * indicates a wine that is bottle labeled. 
The double asterisk ** means the wine is included in one of the apps. 

CABERNETS

From Napa….

• Inglenook, Cask Cabernet (2011, $75)**
• Neyers, Conn Creek Cabernet (2011, $48)**
• Spottswoode, Estate Cabernet (2011, $150)**

PINOT NOIR

From Santa Barbara County's Sta. Rita Hills...

• Transcendance, La Encantada Pinot Noir (2012, $45)

ZINFANDEL

From Sonoma County...

• Ridge - Geyserville (2012, $38) (90-95% organic)**

From Napa...

• Storybook, Antaeus blend (60% Zinfandel)**

WHITES

From the Carneros (Sonoma County)…

• Horse & Plow, Pinot Gris (2013, $26)*, **