Wednesday, February 28, 2024

News from Slow Wine Fair 2024: "Chianti Classico Now More Than 50 Percent Organic'

Slow Wine Fair features more organic producers every year. Enjoy these remarks from FederBio's president, Maria Grazia Mammuccini on the progress and strategy underlying organic viticulture. 

Read more from her Slow Wine Fair interview here. 

“In the last 10 years, organic vineyard surface area has increased by 145%,” emphasizes Maria Grazia Mammuccini, President of FederBio. “Organic viticulture covers an area of almost 136,000 hectares, 19% of the entire national vineyard area, with peaks reaching 38% in some highly suited regions such as Tuscany, where in Chianti Classico, organic vineyards now exceed 50% of the total. 

Organic viticulture is an excellent example of resilience and adaptation to the climate crisis, which simultaneously contributes to preserving soil fertility and ecosystems. It represents a virtuous model capable of combining the value of the territorial identity of our country’s designations of origin with that of organic sustainability.”

“At Slow Wine Fair, which consolidates our partnership with Slow Food and BolognaFiere, we have organized an event dedicated to organic viticulture as a production method to address climate impacts. During this event, we will present concrete examples of biodiversity monitoring and soil quality. These examples allow us to design an agronomic strategy to create a ‘vineyard system’ capable of responding to climatic shocks. This allows us to adopt innovative solutions based on agroecology that are capable of increasing the resilience of plants in their environment.”

Tuesday, February 27, 2024

Thank you to our READERS! Just Reached 1 Million Page Views!

 


When I started this blog, back in May of 2011, I did so after a career in health information and specifically as editor in chief of DNA.com, working on cancer genetics with hot shot scientists from blue chip institutions. A company founded to search for new genetic tests, it was the brainchild of Jim Clark, an A List venture capital maverick. DNA Sciences was funded and created to marry the Human Genome Project and the internet. The first day I arrived, the company was on the front page of the New York Times. High profile. 

Clark had earlier started WebMD (as well as Netscape), so I became the editor of all things genetic health on WebMD as well as DNA.com, where we had a deep bench of amazing scientists on staff as well as colleagues from many prestigious institutions. For example, DNA discoverer James Watson was on the board. No pressure, Pam, LOL. 

In my work there, I wrote cheatsheets for doctors, worked with the American Medical Associations genetics leaders, and launched online radio shows with celebrated experts. 
Experts told me, "Genetics aren't the main engine of cancer; non-genetic factors, including the environment, are."

So when that editorial position ended (in the mayhem so typical of Silicon Valley ventures), I started to look around for what was next. 

A trip to Napa with a friend who lived in Calistoga at the time led to interest in wine. 

Morning coffee with cancer research friends from Commonweal let to my discovery of the Pesticide Use Report, which transfixed me. It was like a secret X-Ray into the soul of wine country, a soul that was pretty dark at that time. Regenerative ag was not yet a thing. And Roundup was not yet in the vocabulary of wine writers.

I remember meeting many WSET types, who reminded me of my art history classes in college. Learn about 50-100 adjectives, and repeat. I never met anyone who had heard of glyphosate or who read the Pesticide Use Report (PUR). (I recommend revising the WSET courses and MW and MS tests to remedy that gap.)

Back then I was enamored of Huey Johnson, a "green plans" environmental leader, and when I learned his former staffer was working on making the wine industry more sustainable, I wanted to know more. 

I went on a tour at a winery owned by a Napa Green president, where I was told of bird boxes and other green initiatives. 

Imagine my disappointment when I looked that winery up on the PUR and saw it used bird and bee neurotoxins. I had help from a wonderful scientist, Susan Kegley (who was chief scientist for Pesticide Action Network at the time), who generously identified the chemicals of concern in Napa and Sonoma and further afield. She even took me to a high level PUR meeting in Sacramento where power users conferred with the PUR database guardians to improve features. 

I spent countless hours on OMRI, learning which of the lovely chemical products were approved for organic use and which were not. 

I am grateful for teachers like Susan. 

Another person who was a great help to me was Volker Eisele, proclaimed as the "lion of land preservation," and featured in James Conaway's Napa books. 

I was delighted to see Jack Davies in the first of Conaway's trilogy (link to second book here). Davies was my father's roommate at Harvard Business School way back when. 

I learned more about deeper environmental history roots and the history of the ag preserve. 

It seemed odd to me that people in the wine industry looked upon organic viticulture as a surefire way to lose money. The more I looked into it, I dropped my "Debbie Downer" phase (so many pesticides!) and saw other wineries doing great work, winning above average awards and scores and succeeding in their businesses. It was a curious gap in perceptions. 

As I dug into what was happening in the wine industry, I felt there needed to be a newsy site to track the names of people doing good work under organic certification and to give voice to these wineries who didn't seem to have any association or organization. (They still don't in the U.S.) It's been quite an education–and involved a lot of wine education and wine drinking and new friends and colleagues. It also coincides with the pleasure of tracking improvements in the industry. As well as the greater impacts of climate change. 

When I think back on 12 years of writing in this blog, I am amazed at the distance we've come. The world is indeed changing. The wheel is turning. That's a good thing...and something to celebrate. 

Thanks for all the clicks.

And for all those wineries doing great work promoting soil health and employee health – A Great Big Thanks. 

May it continue.

Tuesday, February 20, 2024

Napa Powerhouses V. Sattui and Castello di Amorosa Both Go Organic on Their 350 Acres of Estate Vines

 

After 43 years of business in Napa, Dario Sattui and Tom Davies, winery president, made their move to organics on all 350 acres of estate vines. They grow 26 varieties in four counties. 

Everything is sold direct to consumer, and they're proud to announce to all their customers that they've gone organic.

They got climate change religion, too, after hearing a U.C. Berkeley business school professor explain carbon to them and now offer their employees money to carpool to work. Among other things. 

Read the article in the current issue of Grape and Wine magazine.

Monday, February 12, 2024

The Bordeaux Club's Classy Gents in New Academie du Vin Book: Could These Old School Influencers Become the Next Masterpiece Theater PBS Series?


The Sanctum Sanctorium of the Classy Gents

As the wine loving historian Andrew Roberts (not a club member) writes in his introduction, "Imagine a fictional claret society, in which six distinguished Englishmen meet thricely in black tie at their stately homes, 18th century London clubs or Oxbridge master's lodges, in order to drink, discuss and rate the greatest wines ever produced."

Now, thanks to Neil McKendrick, Hugh Johnson and the Academie du Vin Library, you can visit the inner sanctum sanctorium of seven of wine's most highly esteemed Classy Gents in a new book The Bordeaux Club: The Seventy Year Story of Great Wines and the Friends Who Shared Them.

Meeting thrice a year in luxurious settings–Hugh Johnson's garden, where they sip Champagne by his apple orchard, at Oxford's prestigious halls, or in wine merchant's splendors–they sample the best of what the post World War II era had to offer, spanning the years from 1949-2019 when close to the last of their breed had died out.  
 
Roberts tells us "...each member competes subtly to serve better food and wine than his five fellows." 

He also says, "Associations and societies such as the Bordeaux Club are the very acme of civilization." Hyperbole? Perhaps. (It says something that only Bordeaux is in scope, for the club, an historical fact that shows how much the world of wine has changed.)

While these stories offer their own unique pleasures, they also shed light on the history of Napa and the direction our local wine industry–spanning from low wine to high wine culture–chose to go. 

Napa-Bordeaux Connection

Napa went from jug wine coop for Gallo's Hearty Burgundy to wealthy wine enclave and boomtown, a la a mini-Medoc. The reason is connected to these influencers of the post War era. I call them the Classy Gents and you'll recognize them at once. 

They're not Robert Mondavi, raised in an Italian immigrant family in Lodi, seeing the prices for Bordeaux wines. But after seeing Bordeaux's economic success, it's no wonder he led the Napa region to commercial and wine success by aping, mimicking and in some cases surpassing (or at least partnering with) the favorite wine of Classy Gents–Bordeaux First Growths–when he launched Opus One, a co-brand with a First Growth–Lafite. 

Due in part to England's global wine trade and its long ties to Bordeaux in history (as well as geographic proximity), Bordeaux–and the grape varieties it grows–have been elevated to top dog in world wine prices (until recent decades) as well as dominant grape variety status. Cabernet is a bet Napa made–and won.

The English authors, merchants, upper class and businessmen so aligned with Bordeaux–and the prices it commanded–indirectly led to Napa's reinvention of itself as a satellite of Bordeaux, catering to marketing for both affluent lifestyles and elitist wine for the wealthy. (Proximity to wealthy San Francisco and Silicon Valley helped).

It also affected everything in California from the fine wine market–including our internationally celebrated Ridge Vineyard–to the cheapest wine grape vineyards. A fifth of California's vineyards are planted to Cabernet. So the book is highly relevant to our local scene. 

Napa could not command the tasting fees and wine prices it currently does were it not for the Classy Gents and their Bordeaux precedent. 

In 2022, Napa's wine growers produced close to a billion dollars worth of grapes, with Cabernet leading in price per ton at $8,819. French wine professors leading Napa tours for their business school students are astounded by Harlan's Promontory prices–$1,200 for a 2018.

And today you can find Napa wines for sale–Inglenook, Favia, Promontory–at the prestigious La Place de Bordeaux alongside LaTour, et al. 

An Intimate Peek

But enough about class and economics. Let's get to the story and the deliciously rendered hedonism, please.

The volume is a hefty, condensed brick of a book (2.4 pounds, 383 pages) featuring some of wine's most eminent personalities–Hugh Johnson, the notorious historian John Plumb, Michael Broadbent, Simon Berry (yes, of THE Berry Brothers), and Steven Spurrier (of the Tasting of Paris fame, the 1976 contest that brought Napa wines to the world stage). It is rich in content. 

Author and historian Neil McKendrick, once a student of Plumb's, is the club member who took notes for the club which now form the basic backbone of this book–that historical archive will please Bordeaux collectors–along with biosketches of the more illustrious and newsworthy members. Menus of their meals are included along with photos that make their world come to life. 

McKendrick is a good writer, starting off the chapter of the history of the club with, "It is a truth universally acknowledged that a wine in possession of a good reputation must be in need of a club." 

Furthermore he writes, wine collectors have wine cellars full of treasures to be shared. A club must be fun, too, he says.

He writes, "It greatly helps if they (the club members) are colorful, distinguished and interesting characters–and no one can doubt that the Bordeaux Club members were an arrestingly (in some cases alarmingly) colorful crew.They make for very good copy."

I agree, and thanks to McKendrick, the book is very good copy indeed. There are no technical notes on the wines, with the emphasis on a well rounded picture of the people, places and pleasures. 

In my mind, it seems likely that some U.K. production company might see this club as the perfect subject for a new Masterpiece TV series, don't you think? It's got all the right stuff.

Thanks to McKendrick, now almost 90, for a shining a light on the pleasures of wine among friends and for sharing it more broadly with us. 

Tuesday, February 6, 2024

Slow Wine USA Guide Book Party Featured in Somm Journal!

Thanks SOMM Journal for this fabulous coverage of our book launch party in December.


Read the whole article about the book launch party here. 


New Porto Protocol Video Launches - International in Scope

Of all the international sustainability groups that I have come across, the one I admire most is Porto Protocol, which, in my mind, is kind of like Wikipedia for winegrowers and climate change. It's more of a neighbor to neighbor approach and does not require participants to pay a membership fee. It's focused more on a peer to peer dynamic. 

It has frequent webinars with practicing experts from around the world, comparing notes on its You Tube channel. 

It's now come out with a new 41 min. video (just the thing to watch on nights when California is being drenched yet again with another atmospheric river) which you can watch here.

Thursday, February 1, 2024

Biodiversity Winners Honored at Millésime Bio's Vitis Bio Competition



The organic wine magazine VitisBio and Millésime launched a biodiversity competition for organic wineries. 

The group wrote, "To participate, winegrowers must be certified organic, exhibitors at the Millésime Bio show on January 29, 30 and 31, 2024 and justify, through a complete form, their actions on their estate for the benefit of biodiversity. 

They are thus questioned about their approaches in favor of grassy areas (inter-rows, headlands, embankments, fallows, etc.), hedges and wooded areas, other habitats such as ponds, low walls, scree slopes, hollow trees, shelters and shelters installed for wildlife. 
Another point investigated, their choices linked to the diversity at the estate: size of the plot, various grape varieties, productions other than vines, animals in the vineyard, but also the limitation of phytosanitary products…"

116 applications were submitted.

The jury was made up of the Vitisbio editorial team, managers of Millésime Bio, two wine merchants from the Federation of Independent Wine Merchants and biodiversity experts from the LPO and the Hérault Chamber of Agriculture.

Around 30 nominees were selected.

Wednesday, January 31, 2024

Update from the World's Largest Organic Wine Fair: Millésime Celebrating Its 31st Anniversary

Held in Montpelier this year, its usual location, the largest organic wine fair in the world was a success yet again as the market for organic drinks across different alcoholic beverage types expands.

Here's what the group posted on its LinkedIn page today:

"Despite the agricultural movement, visitors were there with nearly 10,000 visits in three days...

2024 was a great edition that demonstrates the dynamics of the show with new features such as a common area for organic alcohols, spaces in the wine library for biodynamic wines and bulk wines or the "Biodiversity, it's my domain!" competition which rewarded 9 winegrowers who had implemented an approach aimed at strengthening the resilience of ecosystems..." 

Jeanne Fabre, President of SudVinBio's Organic Millésime Commission

Having just attended the vineyards and biodiversity conference in Avignon, sponsored by OIV, I look forward to sharing more of the biodiversity efforts going on in the EU.

Bravo to Millésime for carrying the flag forward and educating buyers about the importance of good farming practices for the health of all.

Tuesday, January 9, 2024

GunBun Drops New Video on its Regenerative Organic Certification

Telling the story is important. And you can so feel the difference here in this video between a family owned winery and one owned by a corporation. 


Thank you, GunBun, for including your vineyard manager, too!

Saturday, January 6, 2024

Biodiversity and Ecosystem Approach at Chateau Galoupet

As I get ready to head to Avignon for the second Vineyards and Biodiversity conference Jan 18-19, thoughts of the first one are running through my head. At that time, Mathieu Meyer, Estate Director of Château Galoupet, presented what their impressive team of scientists and viticulturists are doing to restore native ecology on the estate, which is dedicated to (organic) rosé.

You can see how far they've come today here:


For more info, visit their site.

Wednesday, January 3, 2024

Author Picks: Favorites I Wrote About for Wine Business in 2023

Here are some of my favorite stories from the year that was–they were stories that I learned the most from researching and writing or that reflected BIG trends in the wine industry. 

• Napa Valley Grape Growers Cut Roundup Use in Half, Evaluate Weed Control Strategies Amidst Shifting Consumer and Community Opinions

Who knew (until the Napa Valley Grapegrowers' data analyst presented the numbers) that the county's growers had cut their Roundup use in half in the last five years. 


The Wine Industry Financial Symposium each year presents an outstanding program of business-oriented topics and this was one of the best of the 2023 event. There is hope –and action–by telling your story. I was impressed by what local agents are doing to persuade insurers to rethink the numbers.

• Supermarket Giants Safeway and Albertsons Enter the World of Online Fine Wine with Direct Shipping

For most people, the supermarket IS their wine store, so how exciting to see the megachain taking its wine marketing muscle to a broader audience. It will be interesting to see how successful Safeway et al are. Since most wine is sold at supermarkets, wineries should be excited, too–a big opportunity to increase upsell. 


It sounded like sci fi but it wasn't. Until the international biodiversity report on invasive alien species came out I, like most wine writers/journalists (and I'm sorry to say this) have not paid attention to the fact that most chemical agriculture exists to counteract the impact of invasive species. And then in the country's sites–the potential scourge of the spotted lanternfly is on the horizon. While industry leaders bemoan declining wine sales, the lanternfly threat is far more serious, if less immediately apparent. It could wipe out the entire wine industry in a flash. Let's hope, of course, that it doesn't get that chance. Some scientists are focused on solutions.


This story seemed to have hit a nerve, as it showed up as the most popular one on WineBusiness.com for days and days after it was first posted. Once dismissed as irrelevant and for teetotalers only, this segment is grow grow growing. And for reasons, people didn't usually think of–like, I want to keep drinking with my friends, I have to drive home, but I'll just make my third glass of wine NA.  

• From Wood Chips and Mushroom Extracts to Vintner Coalitions: Government Funded Ecosystem Restoration Projects Enhance Vineyard Resilience

A fire remediation story no one has written about, but everyone should be writing about. Let's chart a better roadmap to resilience than the conventional "wisdom" offers.  

• California Pesticide Regulators Set a New Course to Reduce Toxic Chemicals

In keeping with the international move to safer conventional farming, California's collected a diverse group of what I call "the lambs and the lions"–i.e. a wide spectrum of opinions and needs on conventional farming chemicals. This groundbreaking consortium laid out policy recommendations that the ag industry can expect to see implemented. Subsequent signaling from DPR shows that fumigant reduction tops the list. 

Just a Cool Video

 I wish we saw more thinking (and videos) like this in the U.S. This is a very cool bucket list.  


Friday, December 29, 2023

What You Read | The Top Blog Posts of 2023

Organic trends, two notable passings (Paul Dolan and Mike Grgich), and a bit of Slow Wine news were among the stories that attracted the most attention this year. 

While I have happily been doing much more writing for WineBusiness.com along with Grape and Wine magazine (see my regular site's archive for those), I did find a little time to write more about some specialized topics here. 

STORIES ABOUT ORGANICS

• California's Organic Wave: Wine Grape Acreage Increases By 1,774 Acres in Last 12 Months - Napa Increase is 1,000+

This story got 9,000+ page views thanks to the fact that it was picked up by WineBusiness.com and published as a headline in its main site, not just in the blog section. It's also unique since it would appear that nobody besides me pays attention to or compiles organic stats.

• Napa Grows Organic Production: Up 33% From 2020-2022

Napa's organic registrants goes up, up, up. (Later on, I counted it as 14% of the county's planted vineyard acreage.)

FEATURED WINERIES

• GunBun's Jeff Bundschu "How Wedded to the Earth Clock We Are" | Heartfelt Humble Bragging Talk Opens Global Buyers Marketplace

This story probably got a boost from social from GunBun and maybe the Global Buyers Marketplace. It was a really stellar, heartwarming speech which is, more or less, about why wine matters.

• Meet Napa's Third Largest Organic Vineyard Owner, Jackson Family Wines, and Its Organic Napa Estates

Chris Carpenter achieved his quest to convert to organic farming and certification on the family owned wine company's Napa treasures, including its prestigious mountain estates. 

(See my article in Grape and Wine magazine for more on this story.)

• Fancy an Organic Dry Creek Winery? Quivira's For Sale | $24 Million Price Tag

Historic Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc star producer seeks new owners. 

• Oregon Wine Board Founders Award for Dr Robert Gross; Second Major Award Win for a Biodynamic Producer in Oregon

I have so much admiration for the Gross family and their wine accomplishments and for being a benchmark for affordable and excellent wines all from a large and expanding biodynamic estate. Well deserved kudos. They've been a great role model for the region.

HISTORIC PASSINGS

• Grgich 100th Birthday Celebration July 1 Brings Out the Fans

Croatian dancers served Croatian style sausages, the local priest officiated, and Chardonnay was downed in celebration of the master winemaker's 100th birthday. 

(See my WineBusiness.com story about the winery's grand tasting of his historic wines in his honor here.)

• Paul Dolan In Memoriam 

A senior statesman of wine who performed economic miracles for Mendocino County's wine growers and an evangelist for the biodynamic and regenerative farming, Dolan was one of the kindest and most generous men in wine. (And a friend of mine who I ran the International Biodynamic Wine Conference for Demeter with).  I also wrote his obit for WineBusiness.com here. 

SLOW WINE 

• Slow Wine Guide 2023 Book Review on YouTube: 98 Points! Thank You, James the Wine Guy

It was lovely of James to feature our book, the product of so many minds, and the collection of oh so much data. Few people see that the data alone is worth the price of admission, but James did. Thank you! 

But of course, the winery profiles, curation of included wineries and wine and winery awards are fabulous. Buy the new 2024 guide here.

• Slow Wine USA Tour: Better Together - American and Italian Wineries Pour at SF Tasting

This week Elin McCoy of Bloomberg published her 50 best affordable wines of the year list (gated content) and called out Italian producers as the place to look for the best values.  Many wineries on this annual Slow Wine tour (coming up in early 2024 again in SF and four other US cities) would probably agree. 

ROUNDUP HERBICIDE

• Must See Movie INTO THE WEEDS Gets 100 Percent Thumbs Up Ratings on Rotten Tomatoes: Critic Calls It "Compulsively Watchable"

It's educational, it's illuminating, and it's a hot topic in the wine world today as recent stories in Napa (see my coverage for WineBusiness.com on Napa Green and Napa Valley Grapegrowers) point out. The bad press from court cases has led consumers to ask questions about the herbicide's safety. 

Thursday, December 28, 2023

Sonoma's Organic Vineyards Growth Slows Dramatically | Hovering at 4 Percent

PERCENTAGE OF ORGANIC VINES IN SONOMA

I was delighted to be on Sam Coturri and pals' most excellent podcast last week, and Sam asked me what percentage of vineyards in Sonoma are organic. So I decided to tally it up today.

My unofficial count (better than nothing because the govt. does not count organic wine grape acreage, sadly) showed a total of  2,332 acres. Out of 57,000 acres (2022 county crop report number), that means Sonoma's organic acreage is 4 percent. 

It's gaining, but nothing like in Napa, where it's closer to 14 percent, adding close to 1,000 acres this year alone thanks to Jackson Family's Napa conversion of 667 acres (which has not been replicated at scale in Sonoma).

SONOMA ORGANIC VINEYARD TRENDS

After a few years of significant growth in which several 200+ acre vineyards in Sonoma went organic–including Gundlach Bundschu and Donum Estate–2023 saw a tiny increase in organic acreage in the county with just 40 acres of newly certified organic vines. 

In 2021, Donum added 202 acres to the county's organic acreage followed in 2022 by GunBun with 264 in 2022.

But in 2023, only 40.5 new acres were added - or roughly just 20 percent of the new growth seen in 2021 and 2022. 

Furthermore, many vineyards surrendered their organic certifications. 

2021
Donum202
Hanzell46
Hobo + WINE12
Mendoza4
264

2022
DesForges5.5
Grist68
New Puli1.9
Abbots Passage40
Vineburg LLC dba Gundlach Bundschu Winery264
379.4

2023
RAEN7
Bazzano15
Fifth Hill (Ned Hill)13
Sophie James5.5
40.5

DECERTIFICATION

While a wet year in 2023 might be blamed for suspending organic certification in 2023, only four growers or wineries –Bartholomew, Benovia, Bucher, and Cassata–left organic certification in 2023.   

2020-2023
Brereton           NA
Charlie Smith           NA
Bucher Farms38
Bartholomew22
Cassata Sonoma21
Amapola Creek (in 2020)20
Benovia Winery (Cohn Vineyard)18
Larson Family Winery15
Belli Vineyards12
146


Two steps forward, one step back?

Meanwhile, Ridge Vineyards continues to hold the top spot with 266 acres of organic vines, followed by Donum and GunBun.

Other major organic players include Benziger and Eco Terreno each with 100 acres and Hamel which has 97. 

Sunday, December 24, 2023

Talking about Slow Wine, Roundup, and Lots More | With Sam Coturri and Friends on their "The Wine Makers" Podcast | AKA "The Car Talk" Of Wine

 

It was worth the drive up from Oakland to Sonoma in the pouring rain on Monday the week before Christmas to meet up with Sam Coturri (of Winery Sixteen 600) and his merry band of podcast brothers– Brian Casey (former somm at Girl and the Fig), Bart Hansen (winemaker and owner of Dane Cellars) and host John Myers (a radio professional)–to talk about Slow Wine, Cal recycles, Roundup herbicide and so many other things on their podcast The Wine Makers.

You can hear the episode here.  

I'd say they are the "car talk" of wine–with the jokes whizzing by, conversation, questions and a totally unpretentious vibe. 

Remember how the two Magliozzi brothers made you feel? Even if you had never popped the hood on your car or never added oil to your car yourself, you wanted to listen just to laugh.

These four guys asked intelligent questions, made silly puns, and drew out a lot of information in the course of an hour and 22 minutes.

This free ranging conversation covered a lot of territory and I am sure many listeners might want to know more. 

So Here Are The Show Footnotes. (Not to be confused with Sam's very well done show notes on the podcast.) 

• Slow Wine USA is where to find more info about Slow Wine and the 2024 guide. See some of our "bell ding" worthy deets and rave reviews. (The second edition will be out in January 2024). 

• WineCountryGeographic.com is my own site and my blog is linked from there. (You're on the blog now if you're reading this). 

• Into the Weeds is the link to the Roundup film. 




• Pesticide use map - glyphosate used on wine grapes (at Tracking California)

Data from Pesticide Use Report, California Department of Pesticide Regulation (aggregated) and from county ag commissioners (individual site data available upon request by county)




• Winery Brands Going Organic at Scale…



• Bob Kremer, veteran USDA glyphosate researcher 
“It interferes adversely with the soil mycorrhiza… Some beneficial groups can be depleted or decreased considerably…and some other plant detrimental types would be increased.” 



• 2018 Austrian study: three leading herbicides–flazasulfuron, glufosinate, and glyphosate–“reduced grapevine root mycorrhization on average by 53 percent compared to mechanical weeding.” 


• CRV 



Labeling is actually required 18 months from Jan. 2024 AND THAT IS July 2025 -  NOT BY JAN. 1 2024 (erroneously stated in podcast)


• Global Glyphosate Study from the Ramazzini Institute in Bologna 


• Tiny amounts of Roundup genotoxic at low doses - (I meant to say the Shikamate Pathway) The Guardian |  People exposed to weedkiller chemical have cancer biomarkers in urine – study
Dose to risk studies still being researched but preliminary announcements at Global Glyphosate Study say regulators' approved doses are not safe, based on latest research



• Where Roundup is banned (scroll down down down on that page for California towns)


That's it for now. Enjoy the holidays with a nice glass of Slow Wine!


Thursday, December 21, 2023

Slow Wine Guide 2024 USA Is NOW SHIPPING | A Great Holiday Gift! And The Best Source for Organic or Biodynamic Wines From Certified Vines


Want to know about 400 artisanal, boutique and eco-friendly wineries and their wines? Slow Wine Guide USA's 2024 edition is the ticket. Resolve to drink better in the coming year and support worthy wines and wineries. 

With 14 field contributors and 2 ace editors (including Deborah Parker Wong and yours truly), Slow Wine Guide USA is the most complete list of the people you want to support for good, clean and fair. 

(The Italian version has long been the best selling wine book in Italy.)

Perfect for holiday gift giving!

Visit SLOWWINEUSA.COM to learn:

• Who writes Slow Wine Guide? 

• What are the criteria to be in Slow Wine Guide? 

•  How can you find "affordable" artisanal wines? (Answer: using the Everyday Wine category in the book.)

See an excerpt from a past guide (2022) here.

You can use the guide for trip planning, too, as the wineries are now listed within region chapters.

A NEW REVIEW - SEE WHAT SIP MAGAZINE SAYS

ECO CERTIFIED WINES

Slow Wine Guide does not require wineries to be certified organic or biodynamic but an amazing number are, making it the most complete (and pretty much the only) guide for these categories in the U.S.

---BIODYNAMIC

• 157 (of the 406) wineries have estates that are either biodynamic, converting to biodynamic, or source grapes from certified biodynamic vines.

---ORGANIC

• 253  (of the 406) have estates that are either organic, converting to organic, or source grapes from certified organic vines

NEW THIS YEAR

We are also proud to be carried by the prestigious Academie du Vin Library, now the world's largest distributor of wine books. We're in good company. 

(However, the nonprofit Slow Wine USA receives the most benefit and support when you purchase on our website here.) Thank you for your support.

Discounts of 30% offered with minimum purchase of 6 books.




Monday, December 18, 2023

Must See Movie INTO THE WEEDS Gets 100 Percent Thumbs Up Ratings on Rotten Tomatoes: Critic Calls It "Compulsively Watchable"

The Monsanto (now Bayer) hype machine has been misleading millions for decades, corrupted government officials into approving what early and new research shows they should not have, and resulted in thousands of people getting cancer. That story is well told in this new documentary praised by movie critics and highly rated on Rotten Tomatoes. 

TRAILER: 

Click here for reviews and ratings: https://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/into_the_weeds

Variety says…

"Provides another illustration of coldblooded corporate denialism in the face of widespread harm."

NYTimes says.... 

"[These] stories illustrate the breadth of the ecological and agricultural challenges that remain."

You can stream the film on Apple TV, Spectrum, Vudu or on XBOX, Google Play and Amazon Video. 

Friday, December 15, 2023

Mike Grgich's 100th Birthday Celebration: Reprise


In honor of Mike Grgich's passing, I am posting a link to the story I wrote about his 100th birthday party for WineBusiness.com. 

Read it here. 

I also recommend reading the lovely piece Blake Gray wrote here. 

Come to the South of France | Vineyards and Biodiversity Conference Set for January 18-19 in Avignon


In May 2022, I had the pleasure of traveling to Avignon for the first Vineyards & Biodiversity conference, which was the best gathering I have attended in professional wine circles. Now the conference is back from a second time and is being held January 18-19 in Avignon again with simultaneous French-English translation.

Here's the post I wrote after attending the first one. That one drew 150 participants from five countries. (I think I was the only American, except for American born Nicole Rolet, proprietor, with her husband Xavier Rolet, of the nearby Chene Bleu.)

This time I will be joined by four Californians–Julie Johnson (and spouse) of Tres Sabores (where Julie is participating in interesting vineyards and birds research with Humboldt ), Ben Mackie from Napa Green and Deborah Parker Wong, my colleague and friend and co-editor with me on Slow Wine Guide. 

This next conference promises to be equally informative and thought provoking with original and engaging thinkers from a variety of disciplines.

See the program here: 

The 2024 conference will cover:

• Pragmatic topics: hydroecology, the principles of agroforestry, the oil revolution, the circular economy, new ways of combating powdery mildew and downy mildew, the benefits of animals in and around the vineyard, bio-indicator plants, ecological corridors and more.

Who can attend? Winegrowers, unions, wine professionals, scientists, researchers and students with a link to the subject. 

Birte says it will feature: 

• 12 top-flight lectures by international speakers

• A half-day case study of a vineyard in symbiosis with biodiversity

And it will address:

• How can we change the winegrowing model?

• How can winegrowing practices be transformed into "virtuous cohabitation and

collaboration," with mutual benefits for both man and nature?

• How can we link theoretical research with field experience?

More from Birte: 

Considering nature, fauna, flora and the soil as free and inexhaustible resources, adopting the role of "exploiter," is now proving to be a dead end and limits our understanding of the environment in which winegrowing takes place. 

Preserving biodiversity not only requires a rethink of agronomic approaches, it also means going beyond the boundaries of land registry. 

Because of the complexity of living organisms, biodiversity necessarily becomes a project of collective dimension, touching on aspects of cultivation as well as cultural and philosophical ones.

The evolution of practices must take place at the heart of the vineyard, taking into account the complexity of the running of a wine estate and its economic, technical and human needs. 

Networking between researchers, winegrowers, experts and economic players is not only essential at regional and national level, but also at European level, in order to give ourselves the best chance of tackling these global challenges.

Tuesday, November 7, 2023

GunBun's Jeff Bundschu "How Wedded to the Earth Clock We Are" | Heartfelt Humble Bragging Talk Opens Global Buyers Marketplace

Jeff Bundschu, CEO, Gundlach Bundschu (aka GunBun), at the opening night dinner of the 
California Wines Global Buyers Marketplace

It was rainy and dark but the lights were bright at Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma Valley as busloads of international buyers and California winery export staffers descended on a rustic barn filled with the spirits of grape growers past. The property here has grown grapes since the 1850's. 

After a reception, with mingle time that gave participants time to meet and greet, dinner was served. And GunBun CEO Jeff Virnig welcomed the crowd with a speech that elevated both the vibration and the meaning of the gathering. 

Here is his heartwarming speech which is, more or less, about why wine matters.

If I were to do my job, I would be here to welcome you. And I would be simply humble bragging about the fact that you're at a winery that has been producing wine from the same piece of property from the same family since 1858. 

That's almost the 165th consecutive harvest of this property in the same family. If I were to humble brag, I would talk about the fact that we just got all 300 acres plus that we farm certified as Regenerative Organic.

And, of course, if I were to do my job, I'd be thinking and wanting to especially thank Honore (Comfort) who knows from the bottom of her heart how excited I am to be here tonight. Thank you Honore.

The worst thing that happened to me today was that I looked at the guest list. 

I barely even knew what was happening. And that's the normal state of my existence. I'm the oldest in my family and technically have the title CEO but everyone here really does all the hard work. And I just get to take the credit. 


But I looked at that guest list. And I kind of fainted, and I said, oh boy, there's a lot of you here who are very important in the wine world. A lot of people around the world, and a lot of people around our neighborhood. And it's an honor to have you here. 

But in the tradition of my upbringing in this business, when there's opportunity to have so many people of influence under a roof, and somebody has something to say, it's a good opportunity for them to say, especially if it's their winery, and they have the microphone. 

---

I started thinking like, why are we here? 

I mean, like, really, why are we in this business, doing what we do?

Why do we love to make wine, growing and making it? Why do we love sharing it and why do you love to buy and share it with your customers? 

That's the question. What's the purpose? 

I've been asking myself that for my whole life. Before I even knew that I was gonna be into wine. I had an inkling that was a chance I could be born and die within five mile radius like our grandfather, and our great grandfather. 

And so I took off and went around the world...And on that trip, I was asking, like what is it that I want to do?

I obviously have this great legacy that I knew about here. But we have a big family with a lot of opportunities. And it was a big role. And I'm curious and who knew. But through that trip, through a lot of exposure to people around the world, I came to really appreciate that what I love is obviously the place we live in. I didn't really know about wine per se– what was in the bottle–but I certainly knew... that the people I grew up around...they were the people that I wanted to be around. 

It was..my family but also the other people attracted to the industry that I was lucky enough to be born into. And that was enough for me to come home and say I'm gonna hang my hat here, because I like those people. 

Later on, I got to understand about the wine itself and how it is, like, delectable, how it can inspire the senses and continue to keep people like us excited. Whether we're brand new or have been doing it for decades. 

I love how intellectual it is because behind every sensory experience is a story that will challenge your knowledge of the world, your knowledge of history, your knowledge of biography, biology, maybe in chemistry...

But that's what essentially brought me back. 

And what I didn't know, when I got here, what I didn't appreciate was how wedded to the earth clock our product is. 

And what I mean by that is that it's an annual cycle. The vines grow, they ripen. When they're perfectly good to taste, you take them off and bring it into the cellar, let the yeast do their work at their own timeline. Let the barrels impart their flavor, as well as breakdown as soon as the acids in those barrels, and it's all on their time and that time is slow. 

In my youth, I was very upset about that, because we're here in Silicon Valley, where Moore's Law says you just keep getting bigger and doubling and going faster and faster. And all my friends that were doing that were moving at high speed. 

And here, it was another–another vintage its taken a whole year to get there. And then, whoa, I can't like stream it on Spotify, like the music I love. 

I have to sell it, I have to meet nice people. 

But things changed as I got older. And I started to see that trait about wine as a superpower. 

The superpower is that in a time that hasn't slowed down, since I was younger–it's actually sped up. That the fact that we have a product that we all love, and represent, that slows us down and opens us up. 

That sort of says, wow. It's kind of what the world might need right now. A chance to slow down and open up...A chance to slow down and open up.

You know, everybody in this room knows what happens when you open a bottle of wine and table. And how you ask the questions you might have others because you've been too nervous otherwise. That you answer more honestly... And you know what that does. And you know, that what really boil down when that happens is empathy. 

And empathy happens beautifully with people that you don't know, or people that you do know, because you're sharing wine and meals with those people all the time. 

But a night like this... where you don't know the people, you open up that wine and you let it work its magic and lo and behold, you know more a whole lot more about the world, even without a bunch of people from around the world just by listening when the wine is opened and poured. 

So the science, of course, says being together is what makes people happier, even makes us smarter. Who knew when you're eating dinner as a group, you can eat better, that's proven. And we believe I think in this room in our industry, we know that. 

So this is where the ask comes in..it's a call to action. You're going to spend the next week or few days here. tasting great wines. Like hopefully we started tonight, learning a lot about soil, a lot about grape stories and a lot about production, a lot of technical things. You're gonna learn a lot about what makes California incredible. And why those of us who are lucky enough to be here, rarely leave to when it's up here is overpopulated and the world doesn't like us. But it's really nice to be here. 

But you have a bigger assignment and that's to notice what happens around the edges–at dinners like this, on the bus, in between the meals, before, in between the lectures between the studying. 

You're gonna notice how much you grow with people that you didn't know when you got here, from places all over the world, and here in California. 

So I want you to think about ways that import or export back–to magically sitting together, learning from one another, exploring and provocative laughing and laughing at the absurdities. 

Your real opportunity is not to share the work you do to make a living, but share the living you get to do because of your work. 

We take it for granted that we should do this. 

Most of the people that aren't in our business, we can't bet that they understand what happens when this happens–how you can break down barriers and walls and misunderstandings, just by opening a bottle and sharing a meal at the table. 

And I really think in a world where everybody's looking for giant saviors to come in and sort of make big changes, so we all live happily ever after. What really matters is one on one engagement. Right across the table, we have a saying that one plus one equals three, maybe five, when you're around the table when it comes to understanding and loving one another. And we get to do it. 

And in this industry, we grew up in, it's all we know. 

But it's occurred to me, as this world's gotten faster and these kids–especially I pay attention to kids–don't know and are going so fast that we have an antidote to that an antidote we have we know what it's like to share and grow. 

And when you go home from this, this trip, which is going to be technically your day job  you know and love what you're creating. The other opportunity is to make those changes to people that don't know what we know. And one at a time, one table at a time, I think we can make the world a better place.

[WILD APPLAUSE]