Is the Wine Industry Sexist? Good News and Bad

Just thought I would post here about the new article I wrote for WineBusiness.com on women and men and gender inequality/equality in the wine industry.

GET THIS Essential Guide: The Signature Wines of Superior California by Mike Dunne PLUS TERRA MADRE EVENTS

You might think that Sacramento Bee's veteran wine journalist and feature writer Mike Dunne's new book is about wines. But, as with every wine, that is only half the story. What makes the new volume so invaluable is that wine is only where the stories start. And they're greeeeaaaaaat stories.

Dunne has traveled over hill and dale for decades covering the Sierra Foothills, the Lodi region, and the Delta. This is his love letter to the myriad of Zinfandel producers, Barbera geeks, and people crazy enough to make unknown Portuguese varieties like Arinto who found their destiny in the Sierra Foothills. (And some in Lodi). 

It was often cheaper land prices that made it possible for many to take up wine growing along the highways and byways of everywhere from Amador to a vineyard called Zinstar. While production grape growing reigns in Lodi, artisanal wineries also have a foothold. In the Sierra Foothills, more boutique wineries have flourished and quality has gone up. New growers are now moving up–Matt and Audra Naumann of Newfound wines have a vineyard up here and legends like Tegan Passalaqua (Turley, Sandlands) just bought land in Volcano (at 1,000 feet higher than Anne Kraemer's renowned Shake Ridge Ranch).

To prepare for the Slow Wine masterclasses happening this upcoming weekend (May 18-19), I suggested that we at Slow Wine focus on the heroes and heroines of these regions, as our event takes place in Sacramento. (To be clear, we focus only on wines grown without synthetic herbicides, including Roundup, which do not promote soil health).

I first visited Plymouth and then Sutter Creek for the Behind the Cellar Door event in Amador County and was amazed. (I had been to the region before but years had passed). Here was a place where wine tasting was still FUN again...tasting fees were $15 and you didn't need a reservation. You were plied with delicious snacks. And there were even wines under $30. (Not many, but...) And a lot of the wines were really, really good.

Imagine that.

I loved some of the wines. I mean, Turley's Buck Cobb, Terre Rouge's Garrigue, and Easton's Campo Granito (a beautiful red made from warmer climate friendly Touriga Nacional and Souzão) and $30 Zinfandels.

I like, so many, had overlooked this region. Partly because of geography- it's a two hour drive. But partly it was because I was in search of the organic folks–as in certified–and there weren't many here. 

Sure there were a few who came in and out of that tent–Terre Rouge (which keeps farming organically but is no longer certified) and Sobon Cellars (no longer farming organically), for instance–but lo and behold, there were SOME who stayed certified organic–which means I can write about them on this blog. 

(I have been burned too many times by people who told me they were organic but whose pesticide use report told a different story. Alas. But writing for Slow Wine Guide has allowed me to taste and get to know hundreds of people who are farming organically but who are not certified. I write about many of those wines in Slow Wine Guide, not here.) 

Though the certified organic folks are few and far between in these parts, they are there. And all have a place in Dunne's book. Which is yet another reason to recommend the book.

Here are certified organic vineyards in the region:

SIERRA FOOTHILLS

---Calaveras County

• Lavender Ridge Vineyard's Sierra Foothills Grenache (page 189)

Lavender Ridge Vineyard in Murphys in Calaveras County has been an organic stalwart since 2005. (They also have, smartly, a delicious cheese shop in town.) 

"Has firmly established...[itself] as one of the emissaries of wines inspired by the grapes and traditions of the Rhone Valley..." writes Dunne, who says owner Rich Gilpin of Lavender Ridge calls Grenache "the Pinot Noir of the foothills."

---Amador County

Turley Wine Cellars has its estate owned vineyards in the region and has been a leader in organic farming of old vines, certified since, wait for it, 1994. (Were you even born then?) But those are in other regions, not in Sierra Foothills.

LODI

In Lodi land, Bokisch has been the major star, though Vino Farms leader Craig Ledbetter–his company farms 17,000 acres of wine grapes in California–is getting bullish on the growing market he's finding for certified organic grapes. (See my two part interview with him on WineBusiness.com here.) He's on the verge of certifying 600+ acres organic.) 

Ledbetter said, “We're doing organic because I see an opportunity, and the writing on the wall is there… I've started working with enough wineries now where I see there is opportunity there." 

Currently he's selling grapes to Avivo, a new regenerative ag wine brand (currently certified biodynamic by Demeter, but shifting to a new regenerative certification under A Greener World) and organic stalwart Bonterra. (You can't buy Avivo in California at a store yet, but you can buy it on wine.com) 

Bokisch Vineyards, and now Avivo, thanks to Craig Ledbetter, are the biggest volume organic producers in these parts. Both make more than 5,000 cases from certified organic vines. 

• Bokisch Vineyards Lodi Clement Hills Terra Alta Garnacha (page 241)

"In 2020, the Bokisch 2017 Garnacha won a gold medal in the International Grenaches du Monde Competition, which attracted a record 869 entries from 832 wineries in six countries," writes Dunne of Markus and Liz Bokisch's signature grape. (They were also the first to bottle the blending grape Graciano as I wrote about while back here.) You will want to know the rest of their story.

• The Lucas Winery's Lodi Zinstar Zinfandel (page 263)

We read in Dunne's book how Davis Lucas' skill as a surfer made him the man to keep these 1933 (the year Prohibition ended) vines in the ground and into wine. (Surfers will appreciate the surfboards on display in their Lodi tasting room). Heather Pyle-Lucas is the winemaker. The two met working at Robert Mondavi winery in Napa. They farm the old vines meticulously.

"So confident are they of ZinStar's ability to age gracefully, they conduct 40-year retrospective tastings of the wine," Dunne writes.

The Lucas Winery has been preserving its precious three acres of certified organic, old vine Zinfandel, lanted in 1930s, for decades. Its Zinstar Zinfandel wine comes from its Zinstar vineyard, which is listed on the Historic Vineyard Society's registry.

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Of course, you don't have to love organically grown wines to enjoy Mike's superlative book, but ALL OF THE WINERIES I JUST MENTIONED ARE IN IT. 

REDISCOVERING THE JOYS OF WINE TASTING IN WINE COUNTRY

More broadly, the book and Mike's knowledge and experience is an invitation to rediscover the forgotten joys of aimlessly driving around the countryside and popping in without a reservation and being able to afford an affordable tasting fee and being able to actually BUY wine or find a winery whose club you WANT to belong to...(no high pressure in these parts). The book makes a great present, too.

PLUS you will learn about the other great uncertified organic growers and vintners in the region, like Terre Rouge (a Wine and Spirits Top 100 producer three times!) and Steve Edmunds of Edmunds St. John, the Berkeley guy who the makers of the famed Kermit Lynch loved Domaine Tempier said made wine that speaks of the earth. (Steve Edmunds will be given the Rhone Rangers' Lifetime Achievement award in June). And many more. It's easy to read, too, and you won't feel like it's "Educational." It's just fun to read...packed with digestible info and stories.

------

Terra Madre masterclasses will be held at the

Sacramento Municipal Auditorium 

And on to...TERRA MADRE OF THE AMERICAS - THE GRAND TASTING

There is a connection between Mike's book and the upcoming Terra Madre of the Americas in Sacramento, which will feature a Grand Tasting ($75) on Sunday from noon to 5 pm with more than 40 wineries including U.S. and Latin American producers. 

A number of the wineries at the Grand Tasting are from the Lodi and the Sierra Foothills and are mentioned in Dunne's book.

International wineries: Bodega Cerro Chapeu (Uruguay), NAKKAL WINES (Uruguay), Jardín Oculto (Bolivia), Descendientes de Viticultores de Montaña (Argentina), Finca las Glicinas (Argentina), Antropo Wines (Argentina), Ritmo Lunar (Argentina), Vinos 1750 (Bolivia), Bodegas Krontiras (Argentina), Bodega Santos Brujos (Mexico), Viña la reserva de Caliboro (Chile), Pepe Moquillaza Wines (Peru)

California wineries (bolded wineries are local or buy local grapes; italics are wineries in Mike's book): Andis Wines, Casino Mine Ranch, Cary Q Wines, Cormorant Cellars, LLC, Cruess Wine, Donum Estate, Donkey & Goat Winery, The End of Nowhere, Ettore Wines, Frey Vineyards, La Clarine Farm, Madroña Vineyards, Matthiasson Family Vineyards, Ram's Gate Winery, Terah Wine Co.

Oregon wineries: Upper Five Vineyard

[Monday there will also be a special tasting for trade, too.]

SIERRA FOOTHILLS AND LODI SLOW WINE MASTERCLASSES

My research trips fueled the pipeline for three masterclasses that Slow Wine Co-Editor Deborah Parker Wong and I (the other co-editor) will offer May 18-19 in Sacramento at Terra Madre of the Americas. Each masterclass is $50.

We will be featuring some very special beauties, including a few wines where we'll be pouring the final vintages. 

Saturday May 18, 1-2 pm
Affordable Wines (under $30)

Featured wineries: Andis, Avivo, Cary Q, Donkey and Goat, Terah Wine Co.,  and Yorba

Get tickets

Sunday, May 19, 1-2 pm 
Slow Wine Goes Local - The Wines of Superior California

Get tickets

Sunday, May 19, 3-4 pm | Growing Great Grapes: The Wines of Shake Ridge Ranch with Anne Kraemer and a special panel of winemakers 

This is a one of a kind tasting featuring wines made from a renowned site and viticulturalist. 

Confirmed panelists: Anne Kraemer (Yorba Wines and Shake Ridge Ranch), Angela Osborne (A Tribute to Grace), Helen Keplinger (Keplinger Wines), Matt and Audra Naumann (Newfound Wines), Cary Quintana (Cary Q), and Gustavo Sotelo (Orixe Sotelo).

Get tickets

THE BOOK: GET SLOW WINE GUIDE USA 2024 ON SALE

You might also want to get a copy of Slow Wine Guide USA which features 15 estate wineries and 26 wineries that make wines appellated to the region. Get your copy here and support Slow Wine's values of "good, clean, fair." And go local.

See an excerpt

Read more

Get the guide

Extra Love | Old Vines That Are Organically Certified at the Historic Vineyard Society Tasting

The Corison family's historic Cabernet vines in their Kronos Vineyard in Napa waited 50 years to get on the Historic Vineyard Society's list  but made it, at 53, to this 2024 tasting (Pictured here: Grace and Cathy Corison)

I loved attending the Historic Vineyards Society's first tasting since the pandemic, and only its second big public tasting ever. (The first was in 2018 at the Press Club in SF.) 

You can read my story about this epic event last weekend on WineBusiness.com today: Star Studded Historic Vines Tasting Showcases California's Treasures.

It's worth mentioning that some of these producers farm and certify their vineyards as organic. (Some on the HVS list still use Roundup, if you can believe it, though most are what is called "practicing organic.")

• Bedrock (Home Ranch only)

• Carol Shelton (Grapes purchased from Jose Lopez vineyards for Monga Zin)

• Corison (as of 2023 - congrats!) Kronos Vineyard

Rory Williams from Frog's Leap

• Frog's Leap (as of 1997, the first in Napa Valley)

• Ridge Vineyards (estate owned vineyards) (not Pagani in Sonoma Valley which still uses Roundup)

• Scythian (the grapes bought from the Galliano family, including Lopez Vineyard)

• Turley (various, owned vineyards; some are not owned)

• Under the Wire (wine sourced from Bedrock Vineyard)

IN TRANSITION

• Louis M. Martini, Monte Rosso Vineyard (owned by Gallo)

NOTE

I thought it was also noteworthy that there are two second-geners here on this list...Grace Corison (pictured with her mother Cathy) and Rory Williams (son of John Williams). One should also mention Morgan Twain Peterson of Bedrock and his dad Joel Peterson, too. May it continue.

Monsanto Glyphosate Court Case to Be Made into a Major Motion Picture with Hollywood Stars (Think Laura Dern)

Carey Gillam, the top journalist reporting on the glyphosate court cases, announced today that the story told in her book The Monsanto Papers will now be made in to a major picture. Get the details here.

In her post on Substack, Gillam says the the victim, Lee Johnson, lies dying in his family's new home in Napa.

One of my favorite directors, Adam McKay, is also involved and was quoted in Variety as saying:

“These days stories about the “little guy” taking on huge institutions seem few and far between. Both in real life and on the big screen. So, when a story as riveting and inspiring as this one shows up on our desks we get excited. Why? Because people love and need these movies. They always have and always will,” said McKay, listing “Erin Brockovich,” “Silkwood,” “It’s a Wonderful Life,” “Spotlight,” “12 Angry Men,” “Moneyball” and “Norma Rae” as prime examples. 

“I legitimately think I can list 200 wildly successful and beloved films about real people standing up against overwhelming odds with only fairness and truth on their side. So, let’s make number 201.”

New! Details about Terra Madre Event Coming Up in Sacramento with Slow Food and Slow Wine USA

For complete details with links visit: https://www.slowfood.com/press-releases/terra-madre-americas-warms-up/

The first edition of Terra Madre Americas, organized by Slow Food and Visit Sacramento, offers an international program where visitors will have the possibility of attending lectures, workshops and tastings. The main topics at the heart of the event will be coffee, wine and staple foods  from Latin American countries, which represent the richness of their biodiversity and culture and became commoties. This international event explores the interconnectedness of food with various aspects of our lives and environment, including the climate crisis, social justice, and education within the food and beverage system, through the lens of specific topics. This first edition represents the foretaste of what Terra Madre Americas is going to be in the coming years, where the whole continent and many communities will be actively involved.

Spotlight on Coffee

The Slow Food Coffee Coalition, an international, open, and collaborative network that unites everyone involved in the coffee supply chain, presents a rich program where passionate and experts can test their knowledge and taste new flavors. 

At the Barista class visitors cover the theoretical knowledge behind coffee, the origins, the roasting process, and of course, practice the hands-on elements. The class is run by Francesco Impallomeni from Nordic Roasting and is focused on espresso and espresso-based drinks and looks to both professional and simple coffee lovers. At the end of the class, the trainees will gain both a theoretical and practical understanding of espresso brewing as well as basic latte art skills. The class will be run everyday and is free upon registration. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

The Trends in Specialty coffee lecture presents a birds-eye view of the emerging trends in the specialty coffee industry, from cold brew to automation, and from new post-harvest processing methods to new ways to analyze coffee flavor. Mario Fernandez and Peter Giuliano will run it everyday and is free upon registration. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas  

The Coffee Value Assessment is a new system to evaluate coffee, proposed by the Specialty Coffee Association, which looks at all the different attributes in a green coffee, to discover which attributes are valuable to the assessor. In this workshop, visitors will learn about the system and will practice the sensory assessments in a tasting. Mario Fernadez, Technical Officer, Specialty Coffee Association; Peter Giuliano, Executive Director at Coffee Science Foundation and Chief Research Officer SCA will run it. The workshop will be on Friday and Saturday and is free upon registration. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas  

In the Collaborative Coffee, Silvia Rota and Emanuele Dughera from the Slow Food Coffee Coalition, will explore  the Participatory Guarantee System lecture, discovering alternative approaches to ensuring the quality of coffee while fostering inclusivity and active participation. The Participatory Guarantee Systems (PGS), a grassroots certification methods that engage various stakeholders across the supply chain will be presented. The lecture runs on Sunday and is free upon registration. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas  

Spotlight on Latin America biocultural territories

In a Taste Workshop focusing on Brazilian açaí, the cook Maria do Socorro Almeida Nascimento will share her knowledge about açai, from its origins to the challenges communities are dealing with to continue preserving this product, including best practices.  The açaí berry originates from the Amazon region, primarily found near rivers and streams in the estuary of the Amazon River. By the 1980s, it was recognized as a superfood, and urbanization in the 1990s expanded its consumption to cities. Açaí is crucial for the health and sustenance of both rural and urban populations in the Amazon, serving as a staple food. However, its transformation into a commodity has led to issues such as poor working conditions and exploitation of labor, particularly in the harvesting process. Visitors will have the opportunity to taste the “Essencia do ver-o-peso” during the first event dedicated to açaí, and “Entre as matas e os rios” during the second one, both açaí-based dishes. The Taste Workshop will run on Friday and Sunday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

During Mexico corn Taste Workshop Jesus Roberto Poot Yah, a Mexican farmer,  together with Monica Orduña Sosa, member of the Slow Food Cooks’ Alliance in Mexico, will explore corn in all its intricacies, delving into its origins and examining the hurdles that farmers encounter in cultivating this crop, but also best practices related to Milpa cultivating system. The omnipresence of corn profoundly impacts our lives. Originating in Mexico 7,000-10,000 years ago, it forms the core of the Mesoamerican diet, intertwining with beans and squash in the traditional milpa system. Corporate control erodes biodiversity, ancestral knowledge, and economic autonomy, heightening inequality. In response, the Slow Food Milpa System Presidium in Chiapas preserves corn diversity, supports traditional farming, and markets milpa-based tostadas, fostering cultural and economic resilience.  During the first event chef Monica Orduña Sosa will prepare a taste called Toasted Corn Freshness, while during the second one she will prepare another corn-based dish, “Picaditas Milpa”.  The Workshop runs on Friday and Saturday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

In the Colombia panela Taste Workshop, visitors  will address the topic of sugarcane with Leidy Casimiro Rodríguez, a Cuban agroecological farmer, who will explain the origins of the product, its properties, but also the challenges that farmers face every day, ending with some best practices that can be adopted. Sugar, emblematic of indulgence and festivity, carries weighty social implications, yet its production poses significant health, environmental, and social concerns. Reevaluating its societal role is imperative, with its historical and production contexts serving as crucial points of reflection. From its ancient Asian origins to its colonial-era exploitation in the Caribbean, sugar’s trajectory prompts profound considerations of its multifaceted impact. Embracing agroecological approaches offers a pathway towards cultural preservation and sustainable alternatives. During this time of introduction to the world of sugarcane, Eduardo Martinez Cañas, member of the  Slow Food Cooks’ Alliance in Bogotá, Colombia, will prepare on the spot a dish with panela, an unrefined whole cane sugar, a fish with steam from viche, the Colombian sugarcane distillate, to complete the journey with a tasting activity. The workshop runs on Friday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

In the Chilean quinoa Taste Workshop, Andrea Carolina Oyarzo Mansilla, a Chilean quinoa farmer will discuss quinoa in all its nuances, from its origins to the challenges farmers face in growing this product. Additionally, we will also address the topic of good practices that can be implemented. 

High in protein, fiber, and minerals, quinoa is hailed as a superfood. However, of over 6,000 varieties, only three dominate the international market. Global demand has led to significant impacts on traditional production regions. Despite its cultural significance, quinoa faced a decline in popularity during colonization, though it remained cherished by indigenous communities. By the late 20th century, scientific validation of its nutritional properties sparked global interest, transforming it from a local delicacy to a globally sought-after food. In this context, the Slow Food network in the Andean region promotes traditional quinoa recipes, preserving cultural heritage and encouraging sustainable cultivation practices.  In addition to this discussion, during the first event there will be a tasting of K’ispiñas de quinua (ancestral Andean cookie), an andean salted cracker steamed on a bed of straw, while during the second one there will be a sampling session of Cookie dough with real quinoa mousse, sweet red quinoa cookies, which will be cooked by Maria Ruth Gutiérrez Vargas, from Bolivia, on the spot. The workshop will run on Saturday and Sunday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

Furthermore, attendees can enjoy a sampling session featuring “Delight of Cupuaçu”, prepared with cocoa on-site during the product unveiling. During this event there will be a tasting of Delight of Cupuaçu, a dish with typical Brazilian ingredients, including cocoa, prepared by Slow Food cook Patricia Ellen Rodrigues Nicolau, from Rio de Janeiro. The roots of chocolate trace back to the Amazon, where indigenous farmers toil to cultivate cocoa. From Mesoamerican temples to European delicacies, cocoa’s journey reshaped culinary landscapes. However, behind its allure lies a troubling truth: cocoa’s farmers are often underpaid and endure harsh conditions. Ethical cocoa production, such as the Cabruca Cocoa Slow Food Presidium in South of Bahia, Brazil, aims to empower farmers, preserve biodiversity, and create sustainable, fair-trade chocolate.

The Workshop runs on Saturday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

During the Taste Workshop Brazil cocoa and Colombian viche Leidy Casimiro Rodríguez, farmers from Cuba will talk about agroecological farms with a focus on sugarcane the challenges that farmers  face every day to bring good, clean and fair  food to everyone’s table and the topic of adopting good practices in food systems. 

The presentation will be accompanied by a delicious  tasting of cocoa and sugarcane, cooked on the spot by Eduardo Martinez Cañas, from Colombia, and Patricia Ellen Rodrigues Nicolau, from Brazil : chicken with corn and panela sauce, which will represent sugarcane, and a chocolate soufflé, representing cocoa. The workshop runs on Sunday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

Spotlight on Food and Health

The Food and Health area is an exhibit where visitors can discover the connections between human and planetary health.  Through interactive experiences, visitors can find answers and take home good practices to improve their nutrition, support animal welfare, and protect the environment. In the Play Slow corner children and families visiting the event can take part in fun, educational activities focused on food, senses, and even a little horticulture. Slow Food educators will be leading these experiences.

This dedicated space for young children allows them to explore food through their senses and ask questions about where it comes from, how it’s produced, and who produces it.

Participation in these activities is free, and no reservations are required. 

Spotlight on Wine

During the Everyday Wines Masterclass visitors can explore California wines from lesser-known varieties originally from France, Italy, Portugal and Spain that have taken root here. They will discover a Portuguese white, a lightly sparkling Mourvedre from El Dorado, a red blend from Amador County, Sangiovese from biodynamic vines in Lodi, a low alcohol Italian red blend, and heritage Cinsault from historic vines in this masterclass. The Masterclass runs on Saturday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

The Masterclass Latin America: land of great wines and great differences – masterclass visitors explore  the fascinating enology of Latin America, which now expresses very high quality peaks. All combined with sustainable agriculture and organic and biodynamic agronomic practices. It will also be a ride through different techniques and disparate grape varieties, so we can enjoy a broad fresco of what is happening in the Latin American wine world, which may yet hold many surprises in store. The Masterclass runs on Saturday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

The Slow Wine goes local Masterclass explores the region of “Superior California” encompassing Lodi, the Sierra Nevada Foothills, the California Delta and Yolo County, home to a wealth of old vine vineyards and the Slow Wine producers who cherish them. Selected wines  tell the story of these terroirs and showcase the talents of the makers whose efforts have preserved their heritage. The region favors heat-loving varieties including Cinsault, Syrah and Zinfandel but there are surprises like Albarino around every corner. The Masterclass runs on Sunday.Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

The Growing Great Grapes: Amador County’s Legendary Shake Ridge Ranch Masterclass presents how California’s best winemakers and emerging vintners alike come to Sutter Creek to get great grapes. Since 2005, winemakers–from Napa’s top tiers to fledgling natural vintners–have coveted the 14 varieties legendary vineyardist Anne Kraemer meticulously grows in Amador County in the Sierra foothills from Barbera, Grenache and Syrah to Tempranillo and Zinfandel. The Masterclass runs on Sunday. Ticketed event. https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

On May 20th, the event will move to Mulvaney’s B&L for a day exclusively dedicated to food & wine industry professionals who will have the opportunity to meet more than 30 wineries from the United States and Central and South America, all of which are participating in the Slow Wine Coalition.

More on Terra madre Americas on 
https://www.slowfood.com/events/terra-madre-americas/ 

https://www.visitsacramento.com/terra-madre-americas/ 

Tickets available here: https://visitsacramento.ticketspice.com/terra-madre-americas 

Practical information: from May 17 – 19, 2024 | 10 am – 6 pm

Sacramento Memorial Auditorium