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Thursday, March 21, 2024

Stephen Adams, Pioneering Organic and Biodynamic Vintner in both Howell Mountain and St. Emilion, Dies at Age 86

Stephen and Denise Pouring at a 2015 St. Emilion
Grand Cru event in San Francisco

I first met Denise and Stephen Adams in 2014 after writing about them in my apps on organically Napa and biodynamic wines. The debut of their intimate and innovative tasting room on Howell Mountain was a revelation about style and taste...I don't think there's anything remotely like this jewel box in Napa or elsewhere. A lovely string quartet played classical music at the party celebrating the opening. The atmosphere was refined and engaging–an elevating experience. We tasted the wines accompanied by duck nibbles and other fancy treats.

They were really the first top tier Napa winery I'd met that was biodynamic at the time. (I met the team at Eisele later).  

Their decision to purchase the property was auspicious–its red volcanic soils, next to acclaimed vineyards, on steep slopes had been farmed chemically by previous owners–gave them great assets to work with, and the couple brought the soils back to life with sound organic and biodynamic farming. They brought in cows. They had bee hives. And much more.

I thought the choice of the winery's name was brilliant–Adamvs, which means "of this red earth" and is, of course, so close to their own names.

They'd already made the move to being vintners before buying the Napa site, as they owned not one but two French chateaux–like the reverse migration for French vintners who come to Napa vintners.

Organic and biodynamic pioneers, their St. Emilion estate, Château Fonplégade, was the third in the region to be certified organic. It later added biodynamic certification, too.

So it was with sadness that I opened an email from Adamvs this week, telling me of Stephen's death. I am sharing that email with you now:

EMAIL FROM ADAMVS

With deep sorrow, Denise Adams and the team at ADAMVS wish to share with our treasured members the news of the passing of Stephen Adams, an icon in the wine industry and the esteemed proprietor of Château Fonplégade and Château L’Enclos in Bordeaux and ADAMVS in Napa Valley.

Stephen, a vintner whose passion and dedication shaped the wine world, peacefully departed on March 14, 2024, with his beloved wife Denise and family members by his side.

Stephen always found great pleasure in sharing his passion for wine with our members. He and Denise enjoyed personally hosting many of you for tastings on the property, not to mention introducing you to Buttercup and McGee and our chickens, sheep, and cows. Stephen’s charming, open nature and infectious laugh will be remembered by our guests, each of whom left as a friend.

Stephen and Denise’s shared passion for the wines of Bordeaux led them to the enchanting vineyards of Saint-Emilion, where they began their journey as vintners with the restoration and careful tending of Château Fonplégade and Château L’Enclos. Their success in transforming these properties into organic and biodynamic estates inspired them to bring this method of viticulture to ADAMVS, a vineyard nestled on the slopes of Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain. Stephen’s profound love for each region and its unique terroir can be tasted in every lovingly produced bottle.

In the wake of Stephen’s passing, Denise is more determined than ever to carry on their shared work. As a truly hands-on proprietor, she has been intimately involved in all aspects of their farming and winemaking endeavors. Stephen and Denise have always made fundamental decisions for their properties together, to ensure the family legacy of each estate will last for many generations to come, and her unwavering commitment to preserving and enhancing their vision will ensure that Stephen’s legacy continues to flourish.

Stephen will be deeply missed by his family and friends and all those whose lives he touched through his remarkable achievements. Stephen’s influence extended beyond wine; he was an ardent supporter of the arts, education, and medicine through his philanthropic efforts, leaving a lasting impact with initiatives such as the Adams Neurosciences Center at Yale New Haven Hospital.

In this time of mourning, we feel it is appropriate to postpone the release of our 2020 ADAMVS Sauvignon Blanc to Monday, March 25th.

Messages of condolence directed to the vineyard will be passed along to the family.

With grateful hearts,

The ADAMVS Team

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The paper in Minnesota, where Adams was born and raised ran this obituary.

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