Slow Wine: Terroirs, Not Scores | "A Good Wine Is Like a Concert: The Terroir is the Score, The Vineyard and the Grape Varieties are the Instrument, and the Winemaker is the Performer"

Slow Wine's annual tour is today in San Francisco at the Metreon (trade only) but I thought I would share these wise words from Slow Wine Fair 2024 in Bologna last month. 

This is the kind of thinking that's why my own journey is continuing to work for this organization, Slow Wine USA.

LINK 

https://slowinefair.slowfood.it/en/news-en/the-concert-of-good-wine-terroir-as-score-grapes-as-instruments-winemakers-as-musicians/

A GOOD WINE IS LIKE A CONCERT: THE TERROIR IS THE SCORE, THE VINEYARD AND THE GRAPE VARIETIES ARE THE INSTRUMENT, AND THE WINEMAKER IS THE PERFORMER. ALL THREE ARE NECESSARY TO CREATE A GREAT WINE.

This is the essence of what emerged at the Slow Wine Fair, where producers demonstrated that an alternative model is possible and called for investment in independent scientific research to support the expansion of sustainable agriculture.

THE SOIL: THE WINEMAKER’S PRIMARY TOOL

“The soil,” emphasize microbiologists Lydia and Claude Bourguignon, “is the farmer’s primary tool. They must understand its vocation and not be guided by marketing when choosing which grape varieties to cultivate. We must listen to the soil. We must respect its balance, its impressive biodiversity, and its ability to regenerate. Just one gram of fertile soil contains billions of bacteria, fungi, and microorganisms. Chemically speaking, it is the greatest concentration of energy that can be found on the planet.”

These words encapsulate the spirit of the Slow Wine Fair. The event, organized by BolognaFiere under the artistic direction of Slow Food, concludes today after three days of in-depth exploration and tasting of over 5,000 labels. The main objective of the Fair, which for its third edition brought together over 1,000 producers, is to change our approach to agriculture, starting from viticulture—and focusing on soil fertility. The industrialization of agriculture has compromised soil health through excessive use of synthetic chemicals and deep tillage. This is compounded by urbanization, which continues unabated. Every five seconds, we lose a portion of fertile soil equivalent to a soccer field. At this rate, it is estimated that 90% of the world’s soils will be at risk by 2050.

Without fertile soil, there can be no agriculture, and without agriculture, there can be no food. The soil is also crucial for mitigating the climate crisis: it constitutes the land’s largest natural carbon reservoir, and its storage capacity is directly proportional to its fertility.

WORKING WITH NATURE, NOT AGAINST IT

“There are many farmers who have chosen the path of working with, not against, nature,” emphasizes Barbara Nappini, president of Slow Food Italy. “Adopting respectful practices and demonstrates that another agriculture is not only possible, but also urgent. Fifty percent of the wineries present at the Slow Wine Fair are certified organic or biodynamic, demonstrating that environmental, economic, and social sustainability are compatible. Their work benefits ecosystems and people, with the prospect of preserving biodiversity and soil fertility for future generations.”

Wine can be an important advocate for this new vision of agriculture, as evidenced by the growth of organic vineyards. In Italy, certified organic vineyards (many are not certified due to costs) now represent 19% of the area dedicated to viticulture, and in the last 10 years, the surface area of organic vineyards has have increased by over 145%.

AN ALTERNATIVE MODEL IS POSSIBLE

Despite this positive trend, too many synthetic chemicals are still being used in agriculture. Italy is among the highest consumers of pesticides in Europe: according to the latest report from the European Environment Agency (EEA, 2020), annual pesticide consumption in the EU amounts to a total of 340,000 tons, or an average of 1.57 kg per hectare, while in Italy, the average consumption stands at 5.2 kg per hectare. Pesticide use pollutes groundwater, reduces soil fertility, threatens pollinating insects, compromises the natural growth and reproduction of plants, and puts our health at risk.

The winemakers at Slow Wine Fair demonstrate that an alternative model is possible. These winemakers work the soil with respect, following its natural vocation. “These producers have long made a political choice,” says Giancarlo Gariglio, coordinator of the Slow Wine Coalition and curator of the Slow Wine guide. “A choice to drastically reduce or completely eliminate synthetic chemicals. Moreover, they use environmental resources consciously and sustainably, reflecting the terroir of origin, preserving its biodiversity, and driving the social growth of their respective communities.”

INVESTING IN INDEPENDENT SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH

Another specific request from the winemaking world arose at Slow Wine Fair. That is, to invest in independent scientific research that would help those who want to practice sustainable agriculture. “These days talking about sustainability and reducing pesticides is more complex than ever,” comments Francesco Sottile, professor at the University of Palermo and biodiversity advisor for Slow Food. “Our society seeks to pit agriculture and the environment against each other. This is the wrong path. If environmental protection and agricultural production do not become allies, we will not be able to begin the ecological transition. If we want to support our winemakers, we must give them the tools to align themselves on the side of the environment, countering the climate crisis with models of true agroecology.”