From Prosecco to Primitivo: Organic Wines in the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri "Italy in a Nutshell" Tasting

Wines in the Top Ten Tasting Lineup from Organic Vineyards

Seated masterclass tastings at Gambero Rosso's in person tour featured an outstanding array of wines from many regions of Italy. The wines were excellent and the chance to taste them in person a valuable experience since many did not appear to have U.S. distribution. 

Which raises the eternal question: When will the US distribution system get it right? These are truly great wines and it seems a shame that the systems in place frequently do not allow consumers access to them. If wine distribution were not controlled by monopolistic structures in the U.S., surely we would enjoy these stunning wines. 

Meanwhile, here's what to look for from the tasting:

• Villa Sandhi's Cartine-Brut La Rivetta 2020 (15,000 bottles)

The lineup on Friday's tasting began with extra brut and brut wines - a lively start. Gambero Rosso's Italian Wines Guide 2022 calls this wine "a star performer"..."on the nose, white fruit is embellished with by fresh flowers and citrus fruits"..."shows on the mouth with impressive sapidity coming through lean and crisp and closing on a note of bitter almond." It is indeed an impressive wine.

This is the 12th year the wine received a Tre Bicchieri, and this year, it won the guide's Sparkler of the Year award, in a crowded field:

"The Bubbles of the Year Award increasingly marks the differences and complexities within the Prosecco galaxy. In this case, we are in the heart of the municipality of Valdobbiadene, in a micro-vineyard area that outlines an amphitheater of vines that is scenic to say the least, with dizzying slopes. We are talking about the Cartizze hill, 107 hectares of vineyards for a production of 1.2 million bottles. A suitable territory, divided into over 40 owners..."

Find more on page 445 of Gambero Rosso's Italian Wines 2022 guide in the Veneto chapter.

While the winery itself has more than 560 hectares (1,383 acres) under vine, La Rivetta is only 1.5 hectares (3.7 acres). 

Villa Sandhi's overall production is 5.6 million bottles.

I found only one place online in the US to buy it - for the price of around $80. 

• Castello de Cigognola's More Pas Dosé M. Cl. 

A Blanc de Noir with bright fruit and citrus notes, this was a two Bicchieri wine in the guide (page 250 in the Lombardy chapter) from a brand that converted to organics in 2018. 

In comparison to the giant Villa Sandhi, this winery is much smaller - with 30 hectares of vines. It produces 75,000 bottles annually. It also makes a Brut Nature of Pinot Nero as well. 

This sparkling wine is made via the classical method.

• Coppi's Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore 2017 DOC (30,000 bottles)

A few wines later the scene shifted to reds and to this subtle, gorgeous Primitivo (page 928) from the South. For those used to big beefy Zinfandel expressions, this Tre Bicchieri wine would be a revelation with its delicate red berries and fresh, fruity flavors. 

Primitivo comes from the variety's early ripening characteristics, our tasting leader Marco Sabellico explained. 

In addition to the current vintage, the guide lists five previous vintages that also won a Tre Bicchieri award, attesting to Puglia's ability to compete with the higher priced regions. 

The wine is named for Senator Antonio Michele Coppi, "the farsighted founder of Coppi winery as well as winemaker, who loves and deeply knows the territory of the Murgia dei Trulli of Bari," the winery's web site says. 

I found the 2015 listed online for sale in the US on wine-searcher.com.

• Cantine San Marzano's Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni 2017 DOP 

Another outstanding Primitivo, showing the nuance and finesse this grape can offer, this wine (page 940) comes from a coop of 1,200 growers farming 1,500 hectares (3,700 acres) of vines in Puglia. A tiny bit fruitier than the Senatore, it offers up plum notes followed by a kiss of delicate cherries on the finish, with elegant tannins.

The wine comes solely from 60 year old vines grown in the traditional Albarello style, which are bush vines that must be hand picked. 

The area receives almost no rainfall.

The Cantine also won Gambero Rosso's award for Cooperative of the Year in 2022.

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In addition to the "Italy in a Nutshell" tasting, a second round of seated tastings featured wines from the Custoza DOC in the Veneto, where blended white wines from indigenous varieties rule. 

• Gorgo's San Michelle 2020 DOC

Another Tre Bicchieri wine, this intriguing, complex blend of Garganega, Cortese, and Trebbiano comes from 40 year old vines.

Described by the guide as "the quintessence of finesse," it's a "floral and citrusy wine that features, a sapid, taut and racy palate." I'll second that. 

It's currently available in two states in the US for $13-15. (See page 405 in the book for more info.) A gorgeous wine at that price, to be sure.

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Just as at the Slow Wine U.S. tour, Gambero Rosso is a place where importers can taste, meet and select new wines to import. Both events are funded by the EU in hopes of promoting commerce. Let's hope the exposure makes these wines more accessible.