Reverse Migration: Winemaker From Iconic Napa Family Falls Under the Spell of Mendocino's Organic Old Vines, Naturally

Usually, it's young, "natural" winemakers who go to Mendocino in search of under the radar, specialty, old vine varietals. They'll call up in the know locals, like Alex MacGregor, winemaker at Hopland's Saracina and one of the best winemakers in Mendocino with his own tiny brand Trinafour (one of my personal favorites). MacGregor's been around awhile and knows the little choice spots, including some old vine beauties that are 75 years old. 

Now there's another name to note who is cherishing these old Mendo vines and it's not one you would suspect. Bill Davies, son of the Napa sparkling wine royalty Davies family, who founded Schramsberg, has launched a new line of natural wines, sourcing grapes for one label from a certified organic vineyard with a name that cries out for good karma points: Buddha's Dharma.

The vineyard was planted in Talmage, just east of Ukiah, in the 1940's, and the massive, dry farmed, old vines stand like stalwarts from days gone by. Certified organic under the Rosewood Vineyard name, the vines were sold to the City of 10,000 Buddhas, in 1974, but have been leased to Troy and Tia Satterwhite who manage them. Tia hails from the an old Italian family with deep roots in the community. The vineyard, now called Buddha's Dharma, was certified organic in 2007. 

These old gnarled trunks growing Chenin Blanc, Valdigue, and Carignane are beloved by winemakers seeking out varieties outside the mainstream. The vines sit on gravelly, volcanic soil. 

Search for wines from these vines and up pop the names of Jolie-Laide, Pax and rising star Jaimee Motley (recently just promoted to be the winemaker for the legendary Stony Hill in Napa).

And now Bill Davies. 

1965 (a year after the family moved to Napa)
with his brother John; their little brother Hugh
was born that year)

The eldest son in the Davies family, his mother Jamie and father Jack escaped the corporate life in L.A. to buy a dilapidated old Victorian on a steep hillside in Napa in 1964. They knew nothing about the wine business, but managed to make a name for themselves in the sparkling wine world, storing their wines in caves built by the German barber who dug them in the 1870s.

Bill with his mother Jamie, brothers John and Hugh,
and father Jack

Bill Davies grew up in the valley before it underwent Disneyification, a real farming world that is lost in time. He brought it back to life with some of the elementary school art treasures he shared with me. Note: the list of Napa's industries circa 1969 is not to be missed.

A childhood map Billy made in elementary school

This is a list of Napa County's leading industries in 1969

Growing up in Napa back in the 1960's

Davies remembers foot stomping days with Robert Mondavi and gang, and hanging out with Andre Tchelistcheff, the Russian born, French trained wine expert who is credited with helping Napa learn how to make decent and then great wines. 

Foot stomping with Robert Mondavi

Bill (right) with his father, Jack Davies

The Davies' wines became famous. Nixon brought Schramsberg to China in 1972 and toasted to the two countries' famous peace accord with Premier Zhou En-lai in Beijing, with a glass of Schramsberg's 1969 Blanc de Blanc in hand. (This was years before the famous Paris Tasting that put California's wines on the map).

Nixon and Zhou En-lai, 1972

Fast forward to today. After a life in New York, which included managing Schramsberg sales on the east coast originally and later hanging out in Brooklyn's natural wine bars, and working in other aspects of the wine business, Bill is back--back to making wine. 

His first foray with old vine wine--in Napa--was back in the early 2000's when he partnered with his old pal Tom Gamble (who was best man at Billy's wedding) to make old vine wines. It was called Heritage Red Wine.

Tom Gamble and Bill Davies with their 2001 Heritage Red Wine

He's also had a deep interest in organics, serving as a member of the board of CCOF, with the late, great Amigo Bob. "I felt like organic mattered and it was the future," he said. 

Today Bill Davies is at it again, but there's a massive natural wine tailwind behind him. He's been redefined as a naturalista. Finally what's old is new again. 

His daughter Abbie's talents are also part of the mix. 

Billy with his daughter Abbie (age 21), an organic fruit farmer,
 and the wine labels she designed for his two new brands. The Ramble wines 
are on the right.

Davies has just launched two new labels - one, Ramble, is from certified organic grapes (another, Billy D, is not) - with a third one (imports) on the way.

Ramble is the organic, dry farmed label with grapes from Rosewood Vineyard - aka Buddha's Dharma - with three wines: a Chenin Blanc, a Rosé, and a Beajolais-style Carignane.  

He's making these wines with natural yeast (only) and foot treading them. Sulfite additions are limited to 50 ppm, which makes them eligible for Raw Wine, for instance, which is as close as you can get to a definition of a natural wine for many.

"I am drawn to the kinds of wines that take more risks, that are not as controlled, not guided by a strong hand. And without additives. That's the kind of wine I like to drink," he said.

Davies can remember a time when Chenin Blanc was a popular grape in Napa. So many things in Ukiah are like the way Napa once was. So perhaps it's natural that Mendo still has Chenin. 

Bill foot treading his grapes

Bill's mom Jamie foot treading grapes while Bill's father Jack looks on

My favorite of the three Ramble wines, hands down, is the 2019 Carignane, which is fresh and has a lively cherry zing. Half of this wine goes through carbonic maceration which makes it Beaujolais-ish, but the blend in the end has a flavor all its own. 

For the Carignane label, Abbie's taken her inspiration from a photo of her dad in the vineyard.

All three wines are light on their feet, and definitely on the ultra food friendly side. For those who like subtler wines with delicate flavors, these are ones to try. Next year Ramble will add a Petite Sirah from the Pallini vineyard.

Davies described the label like this: "Ramble, the brand name, is like a Ramble in time. Then and now. Old vines today. A Ramble in the vines that twist and reach of their own accord. The abstract figure taking a Ramble in those two labels, that is actually me. The lotus flower on the Chenin Blanc label is a nod to Buddha's Dharma, as in the concept and vineyard."

Who can resist wines grown at the base of Enlightenment Mountain?