Organically Grown Wines at Napa's Costco? Here Are Some Best Buys: Grgich Chard, Heitz Cab, Preston Petite Sirah and More

Six organically grown options from California vintners at Costco (for less). 

I stopped by the newly opened Costco in Napa to see for myself what treasures its wine department might offer, after much hype. I was a little underwhelmed. I think it was just too much hype. 

Yes, there are gems. But not that many. 

BUT, many organically grown wines from fine producers were for sale – and for less than other outlets.

One could certainly put together a great gift basket including any of these bottles. Or just find good wine for everyday drinking or special occasions.

EVERYDAY WINE PRICES

Cabernet Sauvignon - Lake County 

Clay Shannon The Barkley 2022 $15 ($20 on wine.com; $45 from winery site for 2021 vintage)

(Labeled Made with Organic Grapes on front label)

Petite Sirah - Sonoma

Preston 2022, Dry Creek Valley $22 ($34 on wine.com; originally $40 at the winery) ***
(Ingredients Organic Grapes)

Red Blend - Paso Robles

Villa Creek - Cherry House Red Blend $30 (2022 vintage unavailable online)
(Labeled Ingredients: Organic Grapes on back label)

UPPER TIER WINES

Chardonnay - Napa Valley 

Grgich 2021 - $37 ($48) ***

(Labeled Made with Organic Grapes on back label)

Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley

Heitz 2018 $66 ($85)****

Ehlers Portrait 2021 - $65 ($85) 

-------

Note #1: All of these wineries are featured in Slow Wine Guide USA.

Note #2: Costco inventories change frequently. These wines may or may not be available. I took these photos Oct. 24.

Gifting? Dive into Lovely Burgundy's: An Assorted Case from Porter Creek Vineyards' Friend (and Mine, too) from Francois Morey's Caveau d’Auxey

Francois Morey in Auxey-Duresses

Last year I had the very wonderful opportunity to visit Burgundy en route to the OIV sponsored Vineyards and Biodiversity conference held in Avignon. I decided to take on an extra five days before the Avignon event to travel on my own to Burgundy, which I had never been to, and which I think of not only as a great wine region but also the place where the biodynamic movement gained so much ground that it established biodynamics as a "cool brand" around the globe. 

In "stealth mode," I am in the process of writing a book about organic and biodynamics, primarily in the U.S. but I felt I was missing an important chapter in the biodynamic movement unless I checked out its role in Burgundy. I also knew no one in Burgundy, so I reached out to a few biodynamic Pinot Noir producers here who I greatly admire and consider very Burgundian. That list included Doug Tunnell at Oregon's Brick House Vineyards and Alex Davis at Porter Creek in the Russian River Valley here in California. 

Both were very obliging. Alex who had interned under Domaine Georges Roumier in Burgundy early on in his career (they are still in contact today), put me in touch with Francois Morey in Auxey-Duresses who runs a wine shop in the village, operating out of his grandmother's former kitchen and his family's long running retail space. (Francois had interned at Porter Creek in 2003.) 

Little did I know what a prestigious family he comes from. As I found out when we chatted in his grandmother's former kitchen, now his wine shop's office, his uncle was the technical director of Leflaive, one of the pioneers of biodynamics in the region and a legendary producer. 

I met Francois at his shop in January last year for what was an unforgettable day. His hospitality and generosity went beyond the bounds. He arranged for me to visit several wineries and winemakers (in their homes, even), translated when necessary, and took me out for a special lunch in an out of the way spot. 

We headed for our first stop to a nearby Demeter certified biodynamic producer Clos du Moulin au Moines. The Auxey-Duresses mill (moulin) was built by monks (moines) from Cluny at the edge of a stream which still exists today. The mill was built before Burgundy's more famous monastery, Vougeot.

There we met up with Willy Roulendes, technical director, and Anne-Lise Roman, his co-worker (whose official role is marketing), and tasted their stunning wines in the cellar. 

Willy Roulendes

Founded in 962, the domaine has only had five owners in its 1,000+ year old history. 

In the monopole of Monthelie, where the mill is located, the winery has just 3 hectares planted (but also sources from other climats in Burgundy.) 

It makes one Chardonnay, rare in a region of mostly reds. It is crisp and complex. Fermentation takes place in 350L oak barrels. Aging is 10 months. 

Fortunately for us, this Chardonnay is available in the U.S. but only rarely. One place you can get it is in Francois's selection of Burgundy wines in this offer–a perfect holiday gift or splurge. 

Here are the details of Francois's selection (pdf online). Or you can email contact@caveau-auxey.fr.

Here are more details from Alex Davis, who sends his customers an email each year for Francois's annual case offer. 

"Caveau d’Auxey focuses on Burgundian wines made in traditional terroir driven style (meaning that the winemaking intention is to show the character of where and how the grapes are grown as opposed to showing winemaking manipulation), emphasizing producers that are independently owned and operated.  Wines produced in this fashion have personality that shows through in a way that simply cannot be achieved by an offsite board of directors. Francois provides his own detailed description of wines offered as well as profiles of the producers, with personal details and how the approach of each vigneron is reflected in the wines. And that is something we can relate to at Porter Creek! 

The winemaking of Burgundy is a huge inspiration and foundation for Porter Creek's owner/winemaker Alex Davis, who spent three harvest seasons and a school year learning about wine in Burgundy in the years 1994-1996. Incidentally, Francois also worked a harvest with Porter Creek in 2003, as did his assistant Théo in 2022. A special quality about the winemaking circle are friendships such as these.

For those that enjoy Burgundy wines, this is an opportunity not to be missed to acquire these unique bottlings. For those that are curious or still learning about Burgundy, this is a great chance to sample a well-curated selection of wines of the region. Many of these wines are not otherwise available in the US and are offered at lower markups than standard. You will find all of the details about ordering and pricing in his attachment. Porter Creek has no financial affiliation with Caveau d’Auxey.

Here on the Porter Creek estate the fall colors are holding beautifully and the mid-day temperatures have been ideal, so if you happen to be in the area this is definitely one of the most aesthetic times of year for a visit! And if you need any of our wines for your cellar as winter and the holidays approach just send us an email at info@portercreekvineyards.com or call us at (707) 433-6321.

Cheers,

Alex Davis, Proprietor & Winemaker, Porter Creek Vineyards, 707-433-6321
www.portercreekvineyards.com"

The cave in Auxey

Celebrate International Tempranillo Day Nov. 14-17 with Organically Grown Wines and Bites from Bokisch in Lodi

Bokisch Vineyards in Lodi is going all out to celebrate the wine that made Rioja famous. Choose your food and wine pairing event - they have three to choose from including one on Friday, one on Saturday and one on Sunday. Sunday the winery will host live music on the lawn along with food pairings for their Tempranillo.

The variety is the 4th most planted wine grape in the world yet little is grown acres in California, though that could change with climate change. Of the estimated 925 or so acres of Tempranillo planted in California, about 120 acres are in Lodi. 

Bokisch is one of the very few wineries in Lodi that champions organic.  Its 2023 vintages validate that by stating "organically grown" on the back label. Their vineyard was certified organic in 2009.

Spanish on his mother's side, Markus Bokisch, a renowned Lodi vineyard manager and vintner, uses Spanish clones. The winery also makes organically grown Grenache and other Spanish variatals.

Economics of Organic, Part 2: Deep Dive on Organic Vineyard Costs from High End Vineyard Management Company

Jesse Apgar, director of operations at Phil Coturri's Enterprise Vineyards was one of the featured companies at the Napa Green event last week on the Economics of Organics and presented what might be one of the most detailed data packed overviews of the organic farming costs for the company. 

Note: these may be higher than what in house winery teams experience (as some have reported to me), it does provide a baseline for understanding the nuances of what a grower can expect to encounter and compare/contrast that to their current farming system.

The company has been farming organically for 40 years. Its clients include Kamen Estate, Lasseter, Mayacamas, Oakville Ranch, Rossi Ranch (in Sonoma) and more. 

The presentation shows the different costs and care required for three different types of vineyards including valley clay soils, steep mountains and mountain terraces. 

I am not going to try to summarize the presentation, Just feast your eyes on the whole enchilada here. And send your thanks to Napa Green and Enterprise Vineyards for this incredible document.

Organic Vintners Form New Organic Trade Association Wine Council, Seek to Harmonize with Global Organic Wine Standards

Joseph Brinkley, president of OTA's Wine Council in D.C. in 2023

Six U.S. producers and several partner companies came together to form a new Organic Trade Association (OTA) Wine Council.

In making this announcement, the OTA wrote:

"OTA's Wine Council fills a current gap in services provided to existing members when it comes to the adult beverage industry, specifically the wine sector.  The council serves as a focused space and group that can address many of the issues facing organic wine growers and brands in the organic and made with organic grapes category for wines. 

This council will serve to protect and promote organic in the wine space, specifically in the wine made with organic grapes category, by creating a space for collective advocacy around policies and regulations that effect this business sector, by working to educate the many players in the three tier system that wine must operate within domestically, by addressing current issues related to imports/exports such as equivalency agreements and related topics, and by providing a forum to address additional topics that we are facing or may face in the future that are critical to the growth and success of organics in the wine sector."

Current officers are Joseph Brinkley (Bonterra Organic Estates) as Chair, Cain Thompson (O’Neill

Vintners & Distillers) as Vice Chair, and Eliza Frey (Frey Vineyards) as Secretary.

For years the U.S. has been unable to align with the EU or other international standards on certifying organically grown wines. In addition in the U.S., with three wine standards, consumers and trade have been endlessly dismayed and confused over what the term organic wine means as it has multiple layers of meaning. At its most general, the term means a wine that comes from crushed organic grapes. But the term also has a more technical USDA NOP meaning as one of the wine standards in the U.S. and the one that does not allow added sulfites.  

The roots of domestic certification for organically grown wines in the U.S. were set in a mysterious and highly reactionary and political manner. See this blog post (formerly an article on the now defunct Pix.com website) that provides the historical context for the subjective decision making process that took place when the USDA started defining the organic standards for wine. 

The wine industry at the time was not well organized and food rules were hastily applied to wine. The situation in the EU was quite different. The U.S. policies resulted in wine standards that are not harmonized for international trade, leading to many needless complications and costs. 

Most recently new and even more excessive regulations require wine importers themselves to be certified (in addition to the wines), while a TTB backlog prevented timely certification. 

Its 2023 Wine Council report states the Wine Council's agenda which plans to address some of these issues.

The site listed the group's 2024 goals as: 

 Those who are interested in joining, may contact Danielle Cote (DCote@ota.com).

Economics of Organic Definitely Pencil Out, Say Major Producers at Napa Green Event in Rutherford

A crowd of wine grape growers and winemakers met Thursday afternoon in Rutherford to hear presentations from leading authorities in organic wine growing to better understand if organic practices make fiscal sense. 

The message from the three practicing presenters–representing Napa based Grgich Hills Estate and Quintessa and Sonoma based Gloria Ferrer–was a unanimous yes. 

In addition, university researcher Axel Herrera Moreno, post doc at U.C. Davis in the Lazcano lab presented cost analysis stats from the lab's latest study at Jackson Family Wines.

Bernat Sort Costa, regenerative organic research manager at Grgich Hills Estate, kicked things off showing that the farming costs on Grgich's 365 acres Napa Valley vines (in five AVAs) cost less to farm than the average in Napa. Ivo Jeramaz has been providing the same data at various events. (See previous blog post here for more details.) Replanting takes place less frequently and as this is a major cost consideration, it can be potentially be the strongest reason to farm organically for some.

"Our depreciation costs are lower than half [of 150+ Napa peers] on average," said Sort Costa. 

In addition, there are intangible benefits. 

"These are harder to attribute a dollar value to but what you get with regenerative farming is higher quality grapes, more flavorful, ageworthy wines...there's no harmful chemicals in the products and most important for us, [there is better] health for our farm workers," he said.

Grgich Hills Estate makes about 65,000 cases of all estate, all organically grown (and certified Made with Organic Grapes) wines each year. 

His slides can be seen on this link.

Wine Quality Improvements Can Lead to Greater Profits: The Chateau Pontet-Canet Case Study

I personally wanted to include a bit of information here that was not part of the event, but shows what improvements in wine quality can lead to. 

An improvement in wine quality can be a chief financial benefit, according to a Harvard Business School study of Chateau Pontet-Canet, a prestigious Bordeaux estate. 

In 1999, it produced 40,000 cases of grand vin (90 pts.) and 25,000 cases of second wine (86 pts.) 

After organic and biodynamic conversion under Jean-Michel Comme, the estate eliminated its second wine, bringing all the grapes into its first wine–a huge financial benefit.

Two decades after converting, in 2020, Jane Anson rated the wine at 97 points.

Gloria Ferrer

In Sonoma's Carneros, growing conditions are quite different from those at Grgich's American Canyon, Rutherford and Calistage vineyards, but the organic farming benefits are quite similar, said Brad Kurtz of Gloria Ferrer, which is on the verge of completing organic certification on 331 acres of vines. (It takes three years of organic farming to be certified. The winery is well into year 3, having started in 2021.)

"We've seen the quality as we transition from conventional to organic. The quality of the wines has elevated every year, with tons of intensity on the palate," he said, as the event attendees tasted the 2021 Royal Cuvee sparkling wine rosé. "Really long finish. Great mid palate, great mouth coat, and it's something that we're really proud of, and we're really proud that every year it gets better and better as we develop our vineyards organically."

Transitioning has really been a challenge, he said, but aided by an in house team.

"We have our own estate vineyard team. We have about 22 year round employees in the vineyards that do all of our vineyard work. We do not outsource any of our vineyard work. We have all our equipment in house. Everything is done, including harvest, in house. We do not bring outside picking crews. We hire people and use our own teams for our own harvest, and it is about 95% sparkling wine."

Owned by Barcelona based Freixenet, Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma produces 60,000 cases of wine a year from its 331 estate acres. 

"We are dealing with the challenges of organic farming. We are producing traditional method sparkling wines, which, in their own right, are very expensive to produce, and we're able to do it organically. We've been able to organically farm and make these traditional method sparkling wines, and still stay a relatively affordable price point on the wholesale market... It's something we're really proud of–that we're able to do this and still produce an extremely high quality product and still do it at a commercial scale." 

"As far as farming costs go, we've actually held our farming costs fairly steady across the last five to six years, even with the increase in the cost of inputs."

Despite increased costs for weed control, Kurtz said, "Our farming costs have actually gone down slightly." 

Note: Around the world, other sparkling wine producers making Cava and Prosecco have made organic their calling card. Freixenet is one of the largest producers of Cava. 

Grown in the Penedes region near Barcelona, Cava has new regulations that require all wines in the Guarda Superior category to be 100% organic by 2025. 

Trade and Consumer Reception

Kurtz said the wines continue to increase in quality each year and vineyard tours are popular with the trade and consumers.

"We're seeing better feedback from our consumers...we're seeing that increase in loyalty. We're bringing in new consumers," he said.

He gives three tours a week to trade and consumers. 

"When you start talking about organic farming and the systems involved in organic farming, their eyes light up, and they become very engaged. I think people are very interested in using these systems, whether it's cover cropping, whether it's grazing in the vineyards, whether it is our owl boxes, whether it's using compost. We produce our own compost on site."

"I take them on a walk. We walk through the vine rows. We walk up to the compost operation. I show the guys turning the compost piles. I explain why it's important. We harvest our grapes. We take what we need from it...The skins go right back, they compost and go right back into the vineyards. It's a whole system. So explaining these things to people, you see light bulbs go off and get them really engaged in the brand, get them engaged in the winery, and become loyal customers. And I think that's a huge benefit."

From left to right, Rebekah Wineburg (Quintessa), Brad Kurtz (Gloria Ferrer), 
Sara Ferguson (Ruetd) and Anna Britain (Napa Green)

Napa Winemaker Perspective 

Wineburg said metrics for an estate are different than for a grower. "The real metric is not cost per acre. It's number of tons that actually make it into the blend," she said. 

"I do think that there are huge benefits in terms of resilience in each of the vines. Replanting a vineyard is the biggest cost, the most expensive thing that you can do. So if we can keep these vines in the ground for another 10, another 15 years, that's wonderful from a cost perspective. From a quality, consistency and depth of flavor perspective, it's even more important because vines only really come to express their terroir when they're mature. They come into that balance, and when they are at that balance, they are more resilient. So we do believe in building farming for resilience."

Resilience 

I am going to interject another point here (that was not part of the Napa Green event). A study I heard last year at the OIV sponsored Vineyards and Biodiversity conference in Avignon (highly recommended YouTube channel here with English subtitles) from Geisenheim researchers (see my blog post here) found that organic and biodynamic vines, yields in organic and biodynamic vineyards are higher than conventional in hot and dry years.

Gloria Ferrer, Continued: Grape Sales Up Due to Organic Farming

Wurtz said the organic farming has expanded the winery's appeal not only to consumers and the trade but also to grape purchasers.

"Farming organically has opened up new clients to us, which I think is huge. It's been a very challenging year for grape sales, as I'm sure everybody knows....But we have a lot of neighbors that have a lot of fruit that was not harvested, and we were able to move more tons. I can guarantee we were able to move more tons this year than we would have if we were not farming organically, and the price that we got for those funds was significantly higher than what everyone else was getting in our area."

"I think that is a very easy ROI versus dropping your fruit on the ground. We're selling it...that is a very easy equation. And if we were not farming organically, we would not have sold this fruit. Every single person we sold fruit to this year bought fruit from us because we were farming organically, and they were seeking out organically farmed fruit. And they may not be putting it on the bottle, but they are conscious of organic farming, and they understand that organic farming produces better wines."

NEXT UP: BLOG POST WITH DETAILED VINEYARD COSTS FROM JESSE APGAR AT ENTERPRISE VINEYARDS...CLICK HERE

The Economics of Organic Viticulture - Come See the Heavy Hitters in Organics in Person Nov. 7 in Napa

Grgich Hills Estate at Rutherford will host a kickass lineup of organic experts at a Napa Green sponsored afternoon event Thursday Nov. 7. 

Rarely do so many organic experts appear together in one live event in wine country. 

In addition, new stats on organic wine grape vineyard in California shows that Napa has a quarter of the state's organic vineyard acreage. 

Here's the list of speakers and topics. Copy in italics is mine.

2:00 Introduction

Anna Brittain | Executive Director | Napa Green

2:05 Organic Vineyard Management in Varying Contexts & Conditions

Phil Coturri | Enterprise Vineyard Management & Winery Sixteen 600

Who he is: Phil has converted hundreds of acres of vineyards to organics in both Sonoma and Napa, where he manages the vines at Oakville Ranch, Neotempo and Mayacamas (which included a giant replanting of the estate). He is also known for his wine growing in Sonoma and for creating the Moon Mountain District AVA (which used to be part of the Sonoma Valley AVA). In Sonoma, he farms for Lasseter, Kamen (where he famously created blocks planted on volcanic rocks), and he used to farm for Dick Arrowood. (You can only imagine the pairing of a leftwing, Deadhead vineyard guy [Phil] with a right wing famous Cabernet guy ([Arrowood] who was famous for putting Sonoma Cab on the map.) His own winery in Sonoma, Winery Sixteen 600, is a gem.

You can read more about him in this Sonoma magazine profile [https://www.sonomamag.com/meet-the-godfather-of-sonoma-wine-country/] from 2023.

2:30 The Financial Case for Regenerative Organic Viticulture

Bernat Sort Costa | Regenerative Organic Research Manager | Grgich Hills Estate

Who he is: Spanish born Costa attended viticulture and enology school in Barcelona before coming to Grgich Hills originally as an intern in 2017. He became assistant winemaker in 2017 before assuming his role as regenerative organic research manager in 2023. 

2:50 Cost-Benefit Analysis of Regenerative Ag

Axel Herrera Moreno, Postdoc, UC Davis Dept. of Land, Air & Water Resources

Who he is: Axel works with UC Davis' leading regenerative viticulture researcher, Dr. Christina Lazcano, associate professor in the department. Axel presented a cost analysis at a recent regenerative ag event (not organic) at Jackson Family. (See Wine Business story here). That study is looking at the effects of combining two regenerative practices at a time to try to isolate the impacts of each combination. Laszano is presenting the findings of their research at the Terroir conference in Argentina next month. 

3:10 Break to pour wine

3:20 Dollars & Sense of Implementing Climate-Smart Viticulture

Moderator: Anna Brittain

Napa Green is a leader in greening viticulture and wineries.

Rebekah Wineburg | Winemaker | Quintessa

Quintessa is a certified organic and biodynamic estate with 160 acres. Chilean biodiversity expert Olga Barbosa is working with Wineburg to improve biodiversity on 35 acres. (Barbosa has also worked on projects with the Napa Valley Grape Growers). 

Brad Kurtz | Vineyard Director | Gloria Ferrer

Gloria Ferrer, owned by the Spanish based Freixenet company, is on the verge of completing organic certification on 330 acres and implementing many regenerative practices.

Sarah Ferguson | CEO/Co-Founder | Ruetd

Ruetd is a data analytics firm specializing in viticulture. Ferguson has worked extensively with the Napa Valley Grape Growers.

4:15 Wrap-up

For ticket information, click here.

Where Are California's Organic Vines? CCOF Stats Shows 4 Percent of State's Wine Grape Vines are Organic–A Quarter Are in Napa

Newly released data from CCOF, the state's largest organic certifier, shows that there are 23,187 acres of wine grapes in the state that are certified organic compared to industry statistics of a statewide total of about 550,000 acres of bearing wine grapes. 

(Ridge Vineyards, which uses Organic Certifiers, has about 200 more acres of organically grown wine grapes.)

Compared to Europe's major wine growing countries–where 18 percent of wine grapes are certified organic, California's numbers are pretty low–just 4 percent. That's about one fifth as much percentage wise as the three leading organic wine grape countries in the EU.

In 2016, CCOF certified 10,644 acres of organic wine grapes, which means acreage has more than doubled since 2016. 

Napa Has 24 Percent of State's Organic Wine Grape Acreage

Of the wine grapes in California that are certified organic, one county has 24 percent, or about a quarter of all of the certified organic wine grapes in the state. Napa has 5,550 acres of certified organic wine grapes. That amounts to 12 percent of the county's wine grapes overall.  

Sonoma Organic Wine Grapes Are 11 Percent of State's Organic Wine Grape Acreage

In comparison, Sonoma has 2,537 acres of organic wine grapes (according to CCOF) out of a total of about 60,000 acres of wine grapes, according to government officials. That is about 4 percent of the wine grapes in Sonoma.

Data for other regions was not yet available. 

SudVinBio: Organic Growing Growing Growing in EU | 500 MORE Estates Converted in 2023 in the EU

Sharing an article from The Drinks Business on the upcoming global organic wine conference held annually in south of France.

European producers continue to grow the organic sector which has already been at 18% of production. (In California its 4 percent with a quarter of that in the high priced Napa region.)

Boldings are mine.

Hosted in Montpellier by the SudVinBio association, the large scale Millesieme Bio event brings together some 1,100 winegrowers, co-operative members and trading companies across Occitania—one of Europe’s leading organic regions.

Despite economic tensions, the major organic wine industry indicators remain positive. Though admittedly at a slower pace than in 2018 to 2020, vineyard conversions continue, and last year saw over 500 new conversions start. 1.6% more vines were farmed organically, according to figures by Agence Bio.

In terms of markets, all channels are in growth, with the exception of super or hypermarkets where the wine department is experiencing structural decline. In 2023, sales of organic wine in France rose both in volume by 3% and value by 9%. They also increased in export markets, in volume by 9% and value by 5%.

Nevertheless, the crisis affecting wine consumption, difficulties impacting other organic product segments and a fairly bleak geopolitical, economic and social climate cause uncertainty, particularly as the extraordinary rate of conversions over the past few years has created new volumes in the market place and therefore the need for new outlets.

An exhibition catering to exhibitors

Millésime BIO, which is a non-profit associative exhibition, has “taken the current climate on board”, and decided to freeze its rates in a bid to support its exhibitors. Young businesses, either inherited or newly established, will even benefit from a boost of nearly 30%.

The organisers have decided to rein-in exhibitor numbers at 1,500 in order to preserve the balance between exhibitors and buyers. Also, the exhibition does not wish to become embroiled in a battle of figures. It prefers to guarantee its exhibitors selected and highly qualified visitor attendance, it said, with the aim that each meeting should be “useful and open up opportunities for trade”.

Optimised for visitors

Millésime BIO is also ramping up the resources designed for the 11,000 trade buyers due to attend so as to facilitate networking with exhibitors. Visitors will discover a new platform for making appointments and an optimised version of the mobile application.

The app will help them select exhibitors using a large number of filters: product categories, geographical designations, types of packaging and complementary endorsements for instance.

Visitors will also have access to an even broader choice of products with the arrival of low- and no-alcohol drinks at the fair and the return of the Beer&Bio, Cider&Bio and Spirit&Bio areas.

There will also be zones in the self-serve tasting area dedicated to bulk wines from the Occitania region, and for the first time, wines made from resistant grape varieties.

Similarly, Millésime BIO is enhancing the visibility of schemes that are complementary to organic farming. In conjunction with the Biodyvin producers’ organisation, which next year celebrates its thirtieth anniversary, the organisers are hosting an innovative corner so that all Biodyvin members can be gathered in the same hall, but without undermining appellation diversity which is the exhibition’s key trait.

Competition

Organised in conjunction with the specialist magazine Vitisbio, the Hérault chamber of agriculture and the French bird protection league LPO, the event’s competition launched in 2024 has now entered its second year.

It rewards initiatives by organic winegrowers that aim to bolster the vitality of ecosystems.

Trees, which offer habitats for wildlife–particularly beneficial fauna–create shade and cool temperatures down. They will be the main theme for 2025.

The next competition, which serves as a showcase for top-ranking organic products with some 2,000 wines and 150 beers competing, will take place on 14 and 15 January 2025.

Award-winning wines and beers selected by panels of prominent industry members will be available for free-pour tastings at the Millésime BIO Challenge Bar. In 2024, 537 wines and 42 beers won awards. Entries open on 4 November 2024.

The importance of organic

Organic wines are made using organic farming techniques. These are defined by the European organic farming regulation, a long legal text which specifies a certain number of restrictive rules compared with conventional farming, including a ban on synthetic fertilisers and pesticides but also the use of certain products or processes during winemaking.

The European Union also praises the technique, stating organic production “combines environmental and climate action practices, a high level of biodiversity, the preservation of natural resources and the application of […] standards in line with the demand of a growing number of consumers for products produced using natural substances and processes”.

In France, a 2022 report by the Court of Auditors drawing on a number of studies stated that “organic farming is the best way of ensuring a successful agro-environmental transition and encouraging (farmers) to adopt more environmentally- friendly practices”.

Argentinian Domaine Bousquet and Chilean Emiliana Dominate The Drinks Business' Green Awards

The Drinks Business annually holds a Green Awards competition and just published the shortlist of potential winner. No U.S. wineries made the shortlist, but two South American companies who produce primarily for export markets won big time. 

Congrats to Domaine Bousquet and Emiliana (Natura brand in the U.S.) for being on the shortlist for so many of the awards this year. 

• You can order Domaine Bousquet wines online (build your own box, too) or locate a story near you. (There are many.)

• You can find Natura wines on a number of delivery services on their website.

In addition to their green practices, the two companies' wines are top quality for price.

O-I: Expressions Green Company of the Year

Laithwaites

Voyager Estate

Gonzales Byass

• Domaine Bousquet

• Emiliana Organic Vineyards

Adega do Ataíde

Chivas Brothers

Amorim Biodiversity Award

• Emiliana Organic Vineyards

Te Kano Estate

Vergelegen Estate

Familia Torres

Sogrape

Amorim Sustainability Award

• Domaine Bousquet

Ferrari Trento

• Emiliana Organic Vineyards

Trivento Olianas

Casa Relvas

Vik

Best Green Launch

STONE VIK (laudable but not organic certified)

One to One by Oxford Landing

Tread Softly

World First Carbon Negative Beers Without Offsets by Gypsy Hill

• Eco Balance Organic Low Alcohol, Low Calories and Zero Sugar by Emiliana Organic Vineyards

Water Management Award

Bodega Ribera del Cuarzo

So Grape

Perelada

Encirc

Casa Relvas

Healdsburg Crush Event, Oct. 13: Taste Wines from 7 Producers with Organic Vines Who Will Be Pouring

Healdsburg Crush is this weekend. Lots to explore in one square. Here are the producers with organic vine wines-some of the best in the county.

PINOT NOIR - MENDOCINO

Domaine Anderson

From Mendocino’s cooler climate Anderson Valley, this Roederer owned estate offers top tier Pinots from its organic and biodynamic estate (Dach vineyard) vines. An all estate organic producer. Everything they make is organically grown.

PINOT NOIR - SONOMA COUNTY

DuMOL Russian River Valley, Green Valley (one vineyard in transition)

One of California’s very best Pinot houses, you will be amazed by the wines from their new estate vines, which are in transition to organic certification (after practicing organics on the estate). Uniquely, they grow their grapes at high density spacing (meter by meter spacing, requiring a lot of handwork), a technique often used in Burgundy.

Ernest Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (and Freestone-Occidental) (Only the estate vineyards are organic)

Newly certified organic on their Sonoma Coast estates. They’re advocating for a new AVA - Freestone-Occidental – to differentiate their estates area from the West Sonoma Coast or the less descriptive Sonoma Coast. Don’t miss their Sonoma estate wines. (Those are the organically grown ones). Spend more time with the wines in their tasting room, right on the Healdsburg square, to learn more.

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (one vineyard in transition)

Is a bolder style of Pinot Noir for you? Then try the Merry Edwards’ Meredith Pinot Noir. Edwards loved Clone 37, which produces a bigger flavor profile. Tasting room staff sometimes call it a “Pinot for Cab lovers.” 

Now owned by Roederer, the winery also makes a Dach vineyard Pinot (from Domaine Anderson’s biodynamic vines in Mendocino’s Anderson Valley).

Here are my notes from the 2021 vintage of Meredith: 

Aged in French oak (55% new). The flagship wine from a mix of clones. A bold Pinot Noir with Bing cherry on the nose and black cherry and dark chocolate on the palate. Finishes long.

(Their other vineyards are not farmed organically–only Meredith, their 20 acre flagship vineyard, for now.)

Panther Ridge, Petaluma Gap 

From a dry hilly site, Suzanne Farver, a former lawyer and an avid art collector, coaxes delicious small lots of Pinot Noir. Choose from the estate Pinot, the reserve Pinot or a rosé. 

Ram’s Gate, Carneros (estate wines only)

A third of their wines come from their 28 acres of organic estate vines–Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. Joe Nielsen assumed the helm in 2018 and oversaw the organic conversion. The winery is owned by O’Neill, which is gravitating more of its production across its various brands to organic options. 

SPARKLING WINE

Amista Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley AVA

Look for the usual - Blanc de Blanc - and the unusual - Sparkling Syrah - from this Dry Creek producer. WinemakerAshley Herzberg and vineyard manager Paco Mendoza along with Slow Wine enthusiast estate director Brian Shapiro collaborate to create fun wines and a great atmosphere at their estate. Sparkling wines will be in demand to celebrate the upcoming holidays, spritz up a hot late summer day, or just for everyday enjoyment. 

RHONES

Amista Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley AVA

They’re not just bubbleheads at Amista - they make climate appropriate Rhones in this hot, sunny region. Look for Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, perfect for fall and winter pairings. All organic estate grapes.

WHITE WINES

See Ernest Vineyards and Ram’s Gate above for Chardonnay. Ram’s Gate also has Pinot Blanc.

U-Pick Pumpkin Time at Dry Creek's Preston Farm and Winery in Sonoma (You Can Get Your Winter and Holiday Wines, Too)

Gotta get a pumpkin? While it's always worth a drive to Preston Farm and Winery, an agrarian paradise and organic outpost, you probably missed the U Pick strawberries...but there's still time for pumpkins! And now cider!

They grow more than 200 crops and sell veggies, olive oil and lamb sausages at the local farmers market and their on site farm store.

 

Go for a country drive. Take the kids, the dog and leave some space in the car for their great wines, too.  

I recently visited for Slow Wine Guide USA's forthcoming 2025 guide and was reminded, yet again, what a great producer this is. When a place has a shining reputation as a farm to table winery, the quality of the wines can sometimes be overlooked. But let's let these wines speak for themselves. 

 Winemaker Grayson Hartley has really hit his stride. All of the wines were simply stunning.. 

In particular I would call your attention to the White Wine ($42), a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (50%) with northern Italian varietals Ribolla Gialla (25%), and Tocai Friulano (25%). Here are my notes: "The Sauvignon is skin fermented. On the nose, ripe apricot and pear juice with citrus and stone fruits on the palate. Complex and vibrant."

Uniquely the winery is making a Cinsaut ($40), which you don't find often. My notes: "From dry farmed vines planted in 1990. 100% whole cluster. Pressed off after a short maceration to neutral oak puncheons. A juicy go to wine with cherry pie flavors made more complex with darker fruit undertones along with herbal and savory notes in the mix. Also delicious served chilled."

Its Barbera is a standout and the Barbera Reserve ($65) is an absolute knockout. (You have to know to ask for it. Little is made.) My notes: "Foot trod and aged longer in large foudres, these special blocks produced a wine of great depth and complexity. The regular Barbera ($42), with raspberry and cherry cola on the nose and red fruits on the palate, is also excellent.

In recent years, the winery has adventurously planted Italian varieties including Barbera, Nero d'Avola, Ribolla Gialla, super rare Schioppettino (yes!), Tocai Friulano and Vermentino. And then there are the fine usual Rhone suspects–Grenache, Syrah, and, one of my faves, Mourvedre.

All definitely worth a road trip. (Or if you can't make it, you can buy wines online.)

 

Organics a Welcome Bright Spot Amid Industry Doom & Gloom, Says Argentine Producer Domaine Bousquet (Press Release)

I have been advocating for U.S. wineries to pay more attention to the organic ("Made with Organic Grapes") category...for more than a decade. A few producers have recently embraced this segment, but not nearly enough. But here's proof that focusing on this sector is good business. 

Organic is a bright spot.

Business Booming at Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet

Press Release 

September 30, 2024 

Miami, FL, September 30, 2024 – Amid a steady drumbeat of negative news on the state of the wine industry this year, with U.S. sales down 3.36% measured in dollars and 4.83% in volume, Domaine Bousquet is bucking the trend, strongly outperforming even the bright-spot organics category.

Organic wine sales are up 3.86% in dollar sales and 1.39% in volume, according to Nielsen data for the 52 weeks ending September 10, 2024, with the trend even strengthening when you look at the most recent quarter (+7.44% and +2.01%). Figures for Domaine Bousquet over the past year, all of whose wines have been organic since the winery’s founding in 1997, have registered an impressive 12% uptick by both measures.

With $11 million in annual sales recorded by its Miami-based Origins Organic importing arm (which is also USDA-certified organic), Domaine Bousquet now occupies the number three spot in both the organic and Argentine wine categories in the U.S. market. “Consumers may opt not to pay more for an organic wine, but they will happily choose it – and feel good about it — if it is the same price as a less environmentally conscious option,” notes Domaine Bousquet co-owner Labid al Ameri.

That consumer-friendly strategy and business model has propelled Domaine Bousquet into a leadership position in the eco-world. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet Malbec is the number one-selling organic Malbec stateside and leads the field in the premium ($11 to $13) organic category, measured both by unit and dollar sales.

All Domaine Bousquet wines are imported by Origins Organic Imports, Miami, FL.

Domaine Bousquet: A leading pioneer in the organic wine category, Domaine Bousquet is Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ silver level and has been a B Corp member since 2022. Vineyards planted in virgin terrain, starting in 1997, have been certified organic from the get-go. The home high-altitude vineyards, at over 4,100 feet, are in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Today Argentina’s largest exporter of certified organic wines, Domaine Bousquet is owned and managed by husband-and-wife team Labid al Ameri and Anne Bousquet. https://domainebousquet.com/en/

Stunning $15 Price on a Perfectly Aged (Jeff Baker winemaker, 2012) Cab: "A K&L Sleeper!"

I don't usually talk about wine sales, but this one is special.

I just got an email from K&L Wines, our local fine wine shop, regarding this wine. I visited this beautiful estates, planted by Phil Coturri, and can attest to its care and beauty. This wine is no longer being made. Probably a very, very good deal.

Italics mine.

2012 Cassata Estate "Utopium" Sonoma Valley 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Previously $50) ($14.95) 

"I don't remember a time I came across a more beautiful aged, classically styled Cabernet with this much interest and immaculate balance for such a ludicrously low price point." 

— Ryan Woodhouse, K&L Domestic Wine Buyer 

We just secured a library parcel from a tiny estate in Glen Ellen that flies well under the radar of critics and most wine drinkers. 

Tom Cassata founded Cassata Sonoma Family Vineyard in 2002, where he farms [certified biodynamic in 2012] with his daughter, turning out a mere 1,500 cases annually. 

The 2012 Utopmium has some serious creds as well—the wine is made by Jeff Baker (formerly of Mayacamas), and sourced from a vineyard next door to the famed Pagani Ranch [where they use a lot of herbicide]. [The organic Utopium site sits in its own bowl above the valley floor with its own water supply, which is why the owners bought it]. Domestic buyer Ryan Woodhouse once again worked his magic to secure a jaw-dropping price, making this an awesome opportunity to load up on a complex and dynamic aged Cab that's ready to delight on the daily.

Ryan Woodhouse | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: September 27, 2024

To be totally honest with you I had never heard of these wines before. However, after learning Jeff Baker made the wine, my interest was piqued. Jeff started his long career at the iconic Mayacamas Vineyards in the 1970s. He then made the wines at Carmenet on Moon Mountain for 20 years, and is now co-owner / winemaker at Stone Edge Farm with viticulturalist Phil Coturri. Cassata is a small, family-owned estate, on the eastern bench of Sonoma Valley...just outside the town of Glen Ellen. The vineyard was planted in the early 2000s and is farmed using organic and biodynamic methods.

A soon as I pulled the cork on the 2012 Utopium Cabernet I knew it was going to be a winner! It's an absolutely perfectly aged Cabernet, in the prime sweet spot for drinking. Complex development from 10+ years in bottle mean this wine is sitting right where the beautiful blackcurrant and elderberry fruit mingles with leather, spice box, tobacco leaf, dried porcini, graphite, turned earth. It still has lovely plush fruit and a suave texture on the mid-palate, but the secondary aromas and flavors are coming through beautifully. This could definitely pass for a 10-year-old, warmer vintage Bordeaux, or even a more restrained style of aged Napa Cab. I don't remember a time I came across a more beautiful aged, classically styled bottle of Cabernet with this much interest and immaculate balance for such a ludicrously low price point. Honestly, I've had many many far more expensive bottles from iconic estates across the world that don't offer anything more impressive than this little under the radar gem. This is a K&L sleeper for sure!

2012 Cassata Estate "Utopium" Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Previously $50) ($14.95)

Alexandre Tweedie | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: September 26, 2024

Insider subscribers, we're back with another late summer show stopping deal, this time bringing you a bottling of beautifully mature Sonoma Valley Cabernet! Between the towns of Kenwood and Glen Ellen lies Cassata Estate, a winery that has been crafting tried and true expressions of soulful Sonoma for several vintages, and recently offered us this phenomenal back-vintage library release from their 2012 vintage.

Far below market price, this Cabernet is over delivering in every sense of the term a savory nose of warm saddle leather, gently stewed blackberry and plum, with mature edges of sous bois leaning towards autumnal leaves and white truffle. The palate is lined with slight dusty tannin, complimenting the developed fruit of the palate, with more forest fruit and savor into the finish. If you're looking for a California Cabernet that is fully into its proper drinking window, look no further than Cassata Estate's Utopium, and look no further than this amazing one-time price!

Congrats to King Estate (Certified Organic and Biodynamic) - #1 Wine on Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Best Buys

Happy to share this exciting news. 

Press Release

King Estate’s 2022 Inscription Pinot Noir is the #1 wine on Wine Enthusiast’s just-released (Sept. 25) Top 100 Best Buys list. 

This is the first time an Oregon Pinot Noir has made the list. 

Inscription debuted in 2019 from the 2018 vintage. Ed King, Co-Founder and Co-CEO of King Estate, described Inscription as “our pledge to showcase the best of pure Oregon Pinot Noir in every bottle.

“With Inscription, we fulfill our promise to honor the legacy of the legendary Willamette Valley. We believe Inscription embodies the true character and integrity of Oregon winemaking – and nothing is more important to us than that. We are proud and grateful that Inscription has received this incredible recognition from Wine Enthusiast.”

The wine is available at retail stores and on restaurant menus across the country or by ordering online.

According to Wine Enthusiast, 3,800 of the 22,000 total wines reviewed by the magazine over the past year were designated as Best Buys, with 100 deemed to be the best of the best. 

Yountville Oct. 17 Event: "Authors of the Napa Valley" | Come Hear From 5 Wine Writers (Including Yours Truly)

Excited to announce I will be speaking at the Yountville Arts annual Legacy Roundtable event "Authors of the Napa Valley."

The organizers say, "Event attendees will have a truly unique opportunity to spend time with each author at a small table of 10. Authors will rotate every twenty minutes so that each guest will have a small group experience with all five authors throughout the evening." Sounds like a great format. There will be a wine reception. Refreshments included.

My official bio is here. See a list of all my wine journalism here. Peruse at your leisure.

The writers roundtable takes place Oct. 17 from 5:30-7:30.

More details and tickets $35 available here. Should be a good time!

Organic Viticulture and Winemaking Pro Natalie Winkler Joins Dry Creek's Michel-Schlumberger Wine Estate; Winery Plans To Convert to Organic Certification

Healdsburg based winemaker and viticulturalist Natalie Winkler has a new job! Formerly at Salvestrin in Napa, where she focused on Cabenrnet, she is now the new head winemaker for Dry Creek's Michel-Schlumberger Wine Estate.

A winery spokesperson confirmed that the estate will now be transitioning to organic certification under Winkler's management. 

A talented organic and biodynamic vineyard farming expert as well as a seasoned winemaker, Winkler  has been viticulturist and winemaker at Salvestrin Estate Vineyard and Winery in St. Helena, where, during her tenure, the family owned winery achieved its first Top 10 wine award from Wine Spectator. 

She'd gone to Salvestrin in Napa to immerse herself in the ways of Cabernet, which complemented her earlier work at Westwood in Sonoma Valley which focused on Rhones and Pinot Noir.

Previous to her time at Westwood, she was at Mill Creek for four years in Dry Creek Valley, where she was starting to move toward organics and reached out to biodynamic consultant extraordinaire Philippe Coderey asking him to mentor her as an apprentice. 

She then took a job at Westwood in Sonoma Valley and convinced the team there to hire Coderey as a consultant.

You can enjoy hearing Natalie on this recent podcast or in this interview on Wine Spectator's podcast. 

I am excited to see another excellent Dry Creek producer planning to go organic–and with Winkler's expert help. Congrats!

A Very Special Way to Celebrate Grenache Day | Tickets Still Available for Friday Night Soiree in Sonoma with Grenache Specialists Winery Sixteen 600

Sam Coturri of Winery Sixteen 600 with
chef Nick Demarest of Baker and Cook

I can't think of anyone who has done more to promote Grenache, a climate smart–I would add climate sane–grape that can express the best of California than Phil Coturri and his son Sam, who run the family winery Winery Sixteen 600 in Sonoma. So, as International Grenache Day is just three days away (Friday), you may want to know how to celebrate what Sam Coturri (is he joking or not?) calls the "most important holiday of the year."

It is with great pleasure to let you know their team, together with Baker and Cook chef Nick Demarest, are offering a special pairing of the Coturri's outstanding Grenache (and a few more of their wines). See video on Instagram for more. 

See menu below. (Boldings are mine and are wines I have regularly reviewed for Slow Wine Guide over years.)

The rosé alone is simply astounding, made with famed Rhone winemaker Philippe Cambie's protocols and formerly under his guidance. It's now made under the hand of his collaborator and a Rhone winemaker in her own right–Isabel Gassier, a fifth generation vigneron from the Southern Rhone region. 

Oh and maybe I forgot to mention Phil Coturri has been the organic rockstar vineyardist in Sonoma–as well as in Napa–he recently completed a huge replant at Mayacamas, in addition to his ongoing work at Oakville Ranch in Napa, new work at Neotempo)–for decades. He was also "instrumental" in getting the Moon Mountain appellation created. It may well be the most organic AVA in the North Coast. 

In the AVA, he planted, farmed or farms for Hamel Family, Lasseter, Kamen, Moon Hollow, Repris, Stone Edge and more, including Dick Arrowood's no longer organic estate at Amapola Creek; sold upon his retirement as well as Phil's own three acre estate. That organic culture has spread, and now Gallo is on the verge of certifying its historic Monte Rosso vineyard, the old vines where Coturri grew up learning how to farm wine grapes.

Together with the Otellini family, he turned Rossi Ranch into another fine spot for Grenache–To Kalon for Grenache as 

Phil Coturri magically managed to let the Miner family allow him to plant Grenache on their hallowed Cabernet site, Oakville Ranch in Napa, a mountaintop vineyard full of volcanic soils and a site every 100 point winemaker in Napa wants to make wine from (as some have done). 

Space is limited. Here is the announcement from their Instagram feed.

GRENACHE DAY DINNER!

 Join our own @grapeswithaview & friends at @bakerandcooksonoma (https://www.instagram.com/bakerandcooksonoma/?locale=zh_tw&hl=ar) this Friday, September 20 for a very special pairing menu. Call (707) 509-9225 for reservations. 

first course:

duck rilletes and duck liver mousse toasts with apples, radishes, mint, micro greens and lemon

á deux têtes, 2022, grenache rosé, sonoma valley

second course:

grilled shrimp, canard farm melon and soba noodle salad with ginger-sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanuts, crispy shallots, cilantro and basil

sixteen 600, 2022, rossi homage blanc, sonoma valley

the entrée:

lamb shoulder braised in grenache with paul’s farm tomatoes and saffron-crème fraiche mashed potatoes

wine: sixteen 600, 2018, muchas piedras vineyard, moon mountain district

& á deux têtes, 2018, oakville ranch grenache, napa valley 

dessert:

local pears poached in grenache with vanilla mascarpone and pistachio praline

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call or text 707-509-9225 for reservations

$145 per person with wine pairing plus tax & gratuity

$100 per person food only plus tax & gratuity